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YANKEE. TRAVELS 



THROUGH 



THE ISLAND OF CUBA; 

. - y. [ ••*•"". ". *'. * ■ . " ok, 
• ; ; ... • THE MEN AND GOVERNMENT,' . .- 

.■ "THE; LAWS- AND CUSTOMS. OF CUBA- . • 

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S EE'ET BYAME III C A N"; E Y Eg . . 

..' . • " bt . • . "••. • •/• : .. ' . • ; 

DEMOTICUS PHILlLETHES. 



Definite indoctum vana dulcedine vulgus 
Fallere. 

Ovid. Metam. V. ix. 15. 



V": ;-•: -KEW-YOE-Ki * • 

D. APPLETO'N & GO: fc 346 & 348 BKOAfcWAY. 



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fl7£>3 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the y>jar 1S56, by 

D. APPLETON & COMPANY/ 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United Stales, 

for the Southern District of New- York. 



£-?S?7 



IN D E X 



LETTER I. 

Arrival at Havana — Leave for landing — Precautionary measures of 
the Spanish government — Hotels — Medical advice for prevent- 
ing and curing the yellow fever — Cuban idioms — Important 
observations relative to pronunciation, and other interesting 
facts — Necessity of concealing the names of persons concerned 
with the author Page 1 

LETTER II. 

Dresses — Carriages (volantes and quitrines) — Drivers (caleseros) — 
Their abusive conduct — A ridiculous journey — Best mode of 
paying the drivers — Advice to fashionable ladies as to the use 
of hackney coaches — Pedestrianism never exercised — Strong 
reasons for it — Useless attempts of the Captain-Generals' wives 
to avoid the perpetual employment of carriages 7 

LETTER III. 

A warm reception — Impossibility of publishing the Amphytryon's 
name — His family — A jealous mother — Curious anecdotes — 
Danger of being poisoned — Post mortem examinations — Ven- 
geance of slaves — Frightful cases — Interest of masters in 
concealing the crimes of their negroes. — --- ---- »--. 12 

LETTER IV. 

Courting ladies at the windows — The young lady, (nifia) though she 
may be old — Specimens of amatory epistles — A witty answer — 
Sparking through the newspapers — Marriages — Object of the 
Spaniards in marrying — Dispensations from the Bishop or Pope 
to allow the marriage of near relations — Aristocracy — Easy 



11 



mode of high ennoblement — Purchased titles — Fidelity of wive* 
— Virtue of the Cuban ladies — Antipathies bet wen Cubans and 
Spaniards.. -. — 16 

LETTER V. 

System of Agriculture — Land surveying — Staple productions — Slaves 
— Their lights as compared with those of the United States 
— Sugar plantations (injenios) 23 

LETTER VI. 

Coffee estates (Cafetales) — Pasture grounds (Potreros) — Farms 
(SitiosJ — Orchards (Estancias) — Colored population. 30 

LETTER VII. 

Rural Journeymen (guajiros) — Overseers (mayoraies) — Sagacity of 
their dogs — Runaway negroes-The famous negro named Notary 
Public ( escribano^-C onfl\ct between an overseer and a negro. 34 

LETTER VIII. 

Villages of runaways ( Palenques ) — Rancherias — The hunting of 
runaway negroes-Pepe Torres, the ranchador — His duel with a 
valiant mulatto 38 

LETTER IX. 

Poverty of country people — Manner of dressing — Causes of poverty 
— The game of Monte, and cock-fighting — Idleness — Murder of 
Garro — Treachery and revenge — Death of Castafieda — Bad feel- 
ing against the Spanish government — Duels among guajiros — 
Quarrels — Highway robbers — No cruelty indicted — Interesting 
stories of highway-men — Padron, Arencibia 43 

LETTER X. 

Love of the guajiros — Their wives — Superstition — Lights — 
Anecdotes — Irreligion — Its causes — Opinions relative to 



index. iii 

Spanish affairs not less enoneous than those of the Spaniards as 
to Cuban matters — Sugar makers — Their assistants — Their 
moral capacity and social condition. .. .50 

LETTER XI. 

Effects of Railroads — Common roads — Travelling- volardes and qui- 
trines — Carts — Carmen (carreteros) — Their lives and hard- 
ships — Muleteers (arrieros) — Physical strength — Effects of 

climate 55 

» - 

LETTER XII. 

Spanish Population — Drawbacks to Emigration — How Spanish 
Emigrants build their fortunes — Sketches of Count Lombillo 
and others — Revengeful act on Don Joaquin Gomez — Why 
Spaniards do not return to their country — Anecdote of a native 
of Lima — Innkeepers in the country — Advantages of Spaniards 
over natives — Lawyers — Physicians , 59 

LETTER XIII. 

Army — Chai'acter of the Spanish troops — Digressions on Spanish 
historians — Famous exploits of the children of Pelayo in Somo- 
sierra — Their bravery against an unarmed General — The 
Spanish navy — The heroic steamer Pizarro — How Spain 
treats its soldiers and mariners 67 

LETTER XIV. 

Chinamen — Their first and second introduction — Indians from 
Yucatan — Natives of the Canary Islands — Montes de Oca — 
Calisto Gonzalez — Olaneta 75 

LETTER XV. 

The recomendado's family — Just censure of the inaccuracies of 
travellers — Measures taken by the author to avoid mistakes — 
Good opportunities offered to him to make important rectifica- 



IV INDEX. 

tions — Sources of his information — Anti-annexionists, and con- 
cessionists — An anti-Spaniard — An adherent to the Cuban 
statu quo — A rabid filibuster and abolitionist — The aplatana- 
do Spaniard — A programme of subsequent letters 80 

LETTER XVI. 

Spanish officers — Captain Generals — Their powers — Their abuses — 
Case of Larrazabal — Alderman Espelius — Arbitrary deporta- 
tions — Ancient law of the Code of Indies — Bad consequen- 
ces of their arbitrary acts — Captain Generals may adjudge con- 
cerning life or death — Details little known of the death of Crit- 
tenden and his companions — Concha's course in the affair of 
Pinto. 86 

LETTER XVII. 

Trials of Residencia, a humbug — Astonishing results of the accusa- 
tions made against Tacon — General Ricafort — Sanchez Lima — 
Delgado — Spoliations of the ancient Viceroys — A double 
censure — Soler's escape — Don Jacobo de la Pezuela. 93 

LETTER XVIII. 

General Don Miguel Tacon and his administration — His partizans 
and adversaries — Satirical remark of a lady — Character of 
Tacon — His pernicious associates — An honorable exception — 
Anecdotes of the Commissioners Aldermen and several others — 
Banishments -- 97 

LETTER XIX. 

Ezpeleta — Anglona — Valdes — Judge Zaxco del Valle — Judi- 
cial intrigues — Judge Laguna 103 

LETTER XX . 

O'Donnell — Spoliations — His abusive conduct towards Don Ro 
sendo Fernandez — The poet Placido — Selling of bottles. 107 



INDEX. V 

LETTER XXI. 

Roncali — His gloomy reception — His expeditious manner of decid- 
ing- law-suits — The compulsory agreements — An extraordi- 
nary invention to extort a dower — Roncali's mendacity — He 
falls from his horse — His policy — His fears as compared with 
Concha's — Canedo — The Marquis de la Pezuela 112 

LETTER XXII. 

General Commanders or Governors of the Departments — General 
Lorenzo's pronunciamiento — P. Valiente — Superintendent 
Pinillos, Count of Villanueva — His character — Large present 
made to him — His proteges — Colonel Romay — Pinillos' 
devotedness to Christina — Bishops — Espada — Fleix y Solans — 
Mendo — A new kind of piracy - 121 

LETTER XXIII. 

Judicial system — Legislative authority — Powerful motives the 
Judges have for arbitrary judicial despotism — A monstrous 
mixture of powers — A multiform jurisprudence — Enormous 
privileges of the Exchequer 128 

LETTER XXIV. 

Departure from Havana — The sentinel — C offee-house of Marte y 
Belona, where Castafieda was shot — The negroes at work — 
Calabazar ' — Tavern of No Pedro — A curious breakfast — 
The Captain de partido — A bad road 134 

LETTER XXV. 

Don Antonio's estate — The Creole woman Na Isabel — Blessings — 
The nightingale — Division of labor — The orange fields — 
Fishing — Don Calixto's plantation — The Patriarch — Ex- 
cursion to his plantation — Another tavern — Quarrell — The 
Patriarch's estate — School for negro-boys — Negrophilism — 
Refaccionistaa - - • • 141 



1 INDEX. 

LETTER XXVI. 

A wedding among- slaves — Huts — Drum-ball — Captains of the 
distinct — Vexations on poor farmers — Insolent abuses of 
soldiers — Despotism and Liberty 149 

LETTER XXVII. 

Improvement in the speaking of Spanish — The water-carrier negro — 
Resignation of slaves — The blind negro and his chickens — 
The fututo — Assault by the residents of the palenque — Feat 
accomplished by the dogs — Cruelty of the Captain — An 
American Engineer 154 

LETTER XXVIII. 

Excursion to the Vuelta de Abajo — Keepers of the large breeding 
farms (halero/t) — Their assistants for the grazing of the cattle 
on the plains (Sabaneros and Peones) — Customs — Tobacco 
fields — Tricks of the tobacco planters — The farmer of Las 
Pozas — Anecdotes about Enna's troops — Interview with 
Narciso Lopez — Cordillera de los Organos — San Diego 
Springs — The duck-race 159 

LETTER XIX. 

Return to Don Antonio's estate — Trip in a cart drawn by oxen — 
Cold bath in November — Ball with the tiple (small guitar) — 
Love in country people — A good law among many bad 
ones — Don Mateo Pedroso and Dona Mariana Barreto — 
Exaggerated wealth 168 

LETTER XXX. 

Excursion through the fields in the vicinity of Don Antonio's plan- 
tation — Cock-pit — The ball zapateo — Its probable origin — 
Breaking of a ball — Mercenary murders — Forswearing not 
punished 175 



index. vii 

LETTER XXXI. 

Originality of the present Letters — Barreto, the wicked — His soul 
and body snatched by the devil — Hurricane called after him— 
Alms in Cuba — Some of Barreto's iniquities — Feudalism in 
the Island 181 

LETTER XXXII. 

Ladies shopping — Marked prices — Measuring the nails — Attack 
on the New-York ladies by those of Havana — Fashion of ladies 
combs — The groomsmen and bridesmaids (padrinos) — A pre- 
sent of forty thousand dollars — Speculation in making presents— 
The physician Romero - 189 

LETTER XXXIII. 

Cocuyos or glow-worms — Instinct of a small dog — Sentence of a 
runaway negro — Want of liveliness in the Havana ladies — 
Its causes — Their beautiful feet — Charges against them — 
Their apology - 196 

LETTER XXXIV. 

Fright produced by a snake — Another by cockroaches — Ambui- 
las — Creole supper — Breakfast and dinner — Ajiaco — Wine 
and drunkards — Majarete - 202 

LETTER XXXV. • 

Moral education — Causes of its corruption — The Count's young 
mulatto — « A Marquis — The father glutted and his family 
starving — Wicked influence of the government — Two great 
wants — Jesuits - 207 

LETTER XXXVI. 

The girls tired of being in the country — Don Tomas, the eccentric 
— A degraded personage — The accomplished Royalist — 
High price of sugar the sole want of this personage — True 
Nobility — Don Jose Entralgo — His honesty 212 



V1U INDEX. 

LETTER XXXVII. 

Return to the Capital — A bad custom of New-York — The Catho- 
lic Churches of the Empire city — The Churches of Havana — 
Novenas — Calambucos — Papists — Procession of the Viaticum — ■ 
Misdemeanors at Church — Bad Preachers 218 

LETTER XXXVIII. 

Promenades in Havana — Interference of the government — Soldiers 
beating negroes — Expense of keeping a carriage — Fashion- 
able visits — Smoking — Soirees — Balls — Asaltos — A chicken 
— A new Countess 225 

LETTER XXXIX. 

What is Aristocracy in Havana ? — Immorality not punished — 
Democratic movements — Exciting stories — Pater est quom 
nuptice demonstrant — Easy manner of ascertaining the truthful- 
ness of these stories 231 

LETTER XL. 

Cuban hospitality — Bad behavior of a Yankee — Sycophants — Modern 

Pythagoras — Mariano Lassaleta — Eleven years of full board 

for nothing — Fashionable dinner parties — Enna's knowledge 

of Geography — O'DonneH's poverty — Breakfasts and din- 

» ners 236 

LETTER XLI. 

Weddings — Dispensations — Prohibited marriages — Necessary 
licences — Curious Spanish laws on marriages — Recent device 
to abolish slavery and increase the white population of the 
Island — Rights of Parents — Two barbarous laws — Spanish 
anthropophagi 241 

LETTER XLII. 

Funerals — Detailed account of the ceremonies — Singularity of 
several customs — The velorio and feast — Brilliant funeral of 



INDEX. iX 

the Countess of La Reunion — Abuses and flatteries of obitua- 
ry notices — A new Society having in view the publication of 
true and impartial biographies — Funerals of Marin, Bermudez 
and Enna 250 

LETTER XLIII. 

Bull-fights — The Alcalde — The despejo — How they welcome 
policemen — Yankee bull — Horrid scene — The death of the 
bull — Christina's humanity — The famous Pepeillo and the 
treacherous bull. 253 

LETTER XLIV. 

Deportment of the Catholic Clergy — Consequences of the vow of 
Chastity — Capellardas — Anecdotes — Bad Clergymen — 
Perjury — Philological disquisition — - Honorable Priests — 
Eeligious advice — A rectification 269 

LETTER XLV. 

Canons (Canonigos.) — Friars — Their Property seized by the Spanish 
government — Nuns — Fanaticism — Anecdotes — Nuns, who be- 
came such by Repentance — Others who did it from a natural 
inclination....... ................................ ....278 

LETTER XLVI. 

Public Instruction — Primary Schools — The Female Teacher of the 
Crumb (Miga.) — Ituarte's and Navarro's Institutes — A learn- 
ed Habanero — Want of Inducements for Learning — Spanish 
System of Stenography — Seminary of St. Charles — Royal Uni- 
versity — Schools for Colored People — Great Puffing of Teachers 
— Anecdotes ....285 

LETTER XL VII. 

"Economical Society" — Its Seal — Object — Evil and good produced 
by the Institution — Apparent increase of the White Population 
— The Secretary — The four per cent. Tax — AnecdoU — -Dissem- 



INDEX. 

bled Demonstrations — Charitable Institutions — Abuses— Don 
Mariano Arango — Jail — Dungeons, (Bartolinas).... ....297 

LETTER XL VIII. 

Cuban Literature — Regulations of the Press — Their Defects — Cen- 
sorship — Abuses committed by the Censors — Cuban Apathy — 
Bimonthly Review — Other Publications — Poets — Cuban Aca- 
demy of Literature — Obstacles — Written Legal Reports — Anec- 
dotes 306 

LETTER XLIX. 

Hatred of Spaniards towards Americans — Their mutual contempt of 
each other — Young Inchaustegui — Court for the Examination of 
Accounts— Don Ramon Gonzalez — Abuses by the Managers of 
the Government Revenues — Lottei-y Tickets — Creole Mulattoes 
— Spaniards of African descent — Laws which are enforced with- 
out having been ever published...- ... ......315 

LETTER L . 

Commencement of the Cuban Scenes — The ceremony of watching 
and carrying the Seal — The laws violated at the moment of 
their birth — Incredible blunders — A crazy magistrate — The 
Judge Avis Phamix 322 

LETTER LI. 

A scene in the Halls of Injustice — Polite manner of the Judges — 
Wonderful syntax — The lawyer vexed — Motives for the deed 
— The one-eyed Oidor 331 

LETTER LII. 

Milk-Punch battle — Preliminaries of the war — Marti's conflict 
with Escauriza — Scene in the Palace — Appearance of the 
invading army — Frightful attack — Exploits of O'Donnell and 
his troops — An African heroine 335 



INDEX. XI 

LETTER LIII. 

The Departures — Don Joaquin Gomez again — Rumors as to the 
behavior of Tacon — His fears — His hasty departure or 
rather his flight — Probable effects of a shot — Conspiracy of 
the Catalonians — Plots of the Creoles — Their extreme thank- 
fulness — Last act of Roncali — First enormity of Concha. 341 

LETTER LIV. 

First expedition of Narciso Lopez — Rumors — Surprise — Falgue- 
ras' Telescope — Disquisition — Casaseca — Ceruti vanquish- 
ed by a match — Exploits of the renowned Carrasco — His 
Mausoleum in a filthy place — Reembarcation of Lopez — The 
Cholera 349 

LETTER LV. 

Second landing of Lopez — A prediction — Lopez before O'Donnell 
— Appearance of the Pampero — Smuggling merchants — 
Attack of Las Pozas — Panic of Catalonians on seeing Enna's 
corpse — Rejoicing of the Creoles — Treachery — Breakfast 
of Anthropophagi — Rumors — Newspapers 357 

LETT E R L VI . 

Beginning of the Political Questions — Principles professed by an 
honest Spaniard — Hatred between Creoles and Peninsulars — 
Extraordinary assertion — Historical facts of the Cuban revo- 
lution — Revolutionary Committee of Havana — New- York 
Junta - --- ^66 

LETTER LVII. 

Efforts of some Cuban Patriots — Their motives — Strange reason- 
ings — American Sympathies — General unconcern among tho 
Creoles — Its causes — Misfortune — Patriotism of the Cuban 
ladies — Death of Patriots 375 



Ell INDEX. 

LETTER LVIII. 

Advocates of the Cuban statu quo — Condition of the Spanish Ame- 
rican Republics — Disadvantages of the Cuban people for self- 
government — Details of what Creoles require for a liberating 
expedition — Their hopes in the Spanish Cabinet — Parties in 
Cuba — Annexationists — Partizans of Independence.- ---.382 

LETTER LTX. 

Abolition party in Cuba — Expediency of abolishing slavery — Slave- 
ry in the United States — Arguments against it refuted — Ima- 
ginary freedom of Sparta — Wrong principles of the Cuban re- 
volutionists — Discord among the Creoles --.389 

LETTER LX. 

Advocates of a new political regime under the Spanish rule — Ad- 
vantages which Spain would derive from this system — Prin- 
ciples on which the new regime might be founded — True 
freedom of the Press — Golden dream ----.394 

LETTER LXI. 

Don Placido's System — Passion does not allow Spain to see the 
justice of the claims of Cuba — Revolution is unavoidable — • 
The political problem — Weakness of the Spanish government 
— Chances in favor of the triumph of the Republicans 402 



INTRODUCTORY LETTER. 



(From Demoticus Philalethes to Charles * # *). 

Havana, 

My dear Charles : 

It has been a source of no small gratification to me that 
you consider the publication of my Letters as likely to 
prove useful to our country ; and I therefore grant with 
pleasure my consent to the proposal you have kindly 
made. Although the faults of style, which you cannot 
fail to have noticed in them, may wound my amour- 
propre as a writer; still I am satisfied to have them pub- 
lished just as they are, for my highest ambition will be 
gratified if some good may thereby be accomplished. 

It is, however, necessary to say a few words by way 
of apology for these inaccuracies. I first wrote the Let' 
ters in Spanish, and my friend Joseito, then translated 
them into English. In this manner we respectively im- 
proved our knowledge of each other's language ; yet 
though we mutually corrected our exercises, some gram- 
matical errors unavoidably escaped our notice, and that 
want of fluency, so natural topersons who do not write 
in the language in which they have been accustomed to 
think, is perceptible in all my Letters. 

The fear of incurring the charge of plagiarism has 
considerably reduced the boundaries of the field which 



II INTRODUCTORY LETTER. 

I have surveyed. The course of independent investiga- 
tion which I have pursued, has multiplied the difficulties 
of my task ; but I have thereby been enabled to impart 
entirely new data and reliable information, instead of mere- 
ly copying from books already known. My work will 
be therefore a supplement, as you have properly remarked, 
to those heretofore written on the same subject; and 
that such a supplement is necessary, can be very easily 
demonstrated. 

Cuba, the largest, wealthiest and most advantageously 
situated of the Antilles; Cuba, which for her fruitful 
soil, delightful climate and valuable products, has been 
justly called "The Pearl of the Seas;" the beautiful 
Cuba, distant only a £ew miles from our shores, is very 
imperfectly known by our people. And yet no foreign 
country, old England excepted, deserves more o£ our at- 
tention ; not only because it is inevitably bound to become 
one of the States of our Confederacy, and therefore an 
intimate knowledge of its value and probable growth is 
of the greatest importance, but also because the ties that 
unite the two countries are already so close that we must 
necessarily feel in some degree the effects of all the vi- 
cissitudes of our neighbor, both political and social. 

Unfortunately those who have the best opportunity to 
become fully acquainted with this country, and who are 
qualified to impart to us the most reliable information, 
viz. : the native Cubans themselves, cannot do this in a 
proper manner, because the press is not free; and the 
works published here on the subject cannot but betray 
the influence exerted on their authors, by a jealous and 
narrow minded governmental policy. One work of this 
kind partly published, some years ago, by Don Ramon 
de la Sagra, and not yet finished, with the title of " Na- 
tural, Physical and Political History of the Island of 



INTRODUCTORY LETTER. Ill 

Cuba," contains but little recent information respecting 
her ; and little reliance can be placed upon it, in view of 
the fact that it was dedicated to Queen Christina, and 
published under the patronage of the Spanish Govern- 
ment. The political portion of this book is nothing but a 
confused accumulation of ill-arranged abstracts, selected 
with bad taste, and without any literary merit. Its au- 
thor is the Professor of whom I spoke in my XLVI 
Letter who without any knowledge of Botany, came to 
Havana to teach it. 

The works heretofore published on Cuba, in our coun- 
try, generally deserve our praise. " Neque enim aut 
aliena vituperare, aut nostra jactantius prsedieare, ani- 
mus est," but having a due regard to truth, we must ac- 
knowledge that the information respecting the Island 
they convey, is scanty and meagre, even when they do 
not inculcate falsehoods and errors. This must needs 
have been the case^ and I will adduce the grounds on 
which my opinions rest. 

In the first place, a government like this, which does 
not aim to promote the general good, but to benefit itself 
and increase its own power, does not allow the mode of its 
administration to be freely examined, nor the true causes 
of the prosperity or decay of the country to be openly 
discussed, together with those abuses, which especially 
contribute to the wealth of its creatures. 

It has a lively interest in covering every thing with a 
veil of mystery, in order to prevent any light from shin- 
ing on its procedures, and laying open the enormities it 
daily commits ; and instead of facilitating the inquiries 
of a traveller, they endeavor by all means, especially if 
he is foreigner, to throw obstacles on his way, and if his 
purpose is ascertained to be the study of the country, in 
order to write upon it, no efforts are spared to thwart his 
design. 



IV 



INTRODUCTORY LETTER. 



Besides, none of the writers who have presented us 
with works on Cuba, have so far as 1 know, visited this 
Island for the especial purpose of describing it after due 
study and observation ; this has been in all cases, a secon- 
dary object. Their main design in coming has been the 
transaction of private business, commonly some mercan- 
tile speculation ; whereas in order to succeed in any good 
degree in the difficult undertaking of making Cuba and 
its affairs known to the world, it is necessary that this 
should be not only the chief, but the only object of one's 
visit. It seems to me that even a hasty perusal of my 
Letters will at once show how much labor and trouble 
must be spent in discovering, understanding and explain- 
ing habits and customs which nobody had heretofore no- 
ticed, and enigmas that former travellers had not even ob- 
served. It will also be easily seen, how difficult, if not 
impossible it would be, even for those who possess all 
necessary qualifications to learn and -explain them, if all 
their endeavors are not directed to this end, and every 
available means of investigation employed. 

The "Essay on Cuba" by Baron Humboldt may be 
quoted as an exception, but the fact that nearly half a 
century has passed since Its illustrious author visited the 
Island, warrants us in thinking that a wide difference 
must exist between its present condition and that describ- 
ed by the Baron; for such is the case with all countries, 
and especially with young ones. Those who may read 
that work and compare it to my Letters, will at'once per- 
ceive the difference of views of their respective authors. 
The writer of the former has considered the Island in its 
relations with other countries, but without any regard to 
its political condition, a task to which the great Prussian 
savant could not come without prejudice: the author of 
the latter, on the contrary, it will be seen, has thoroughly 



INTRODUCTORY LETTER. V 

examined Cuba in all its lights, and set forth its form of 
government, in its true character, without that high color- 
ing which private and interested views are apt to occa- 
sion. He has also taken pains to unfold, even the most mi- 
nute particulars of the social fabric, which in spite of their 
apparent insignificance, are often the causes of the most 
important events. 

It is usually the case that travellers arriving in a for- 
eign land confine themselves in their social intercourse to 
the circle of their own countrymen. These, however, 
are unable to impart any information, except what may 
be gained by very superficial and imperfect observations, 
as their investigations cannot have been so deep or tho- 
rough as those of the natives. And even among well- 
informed citizens, multitudes are unprepared to describe 
their own institutions for want of analytical habits, or from 
not noticing many existing abuses, on account of their 
very prevalence. 

Wishing to avoid these liabilities, I applied to natives 
who besides an intimate knowledge of affairs in general, 
possessed a sound judgment and an investigating dispo- 
sition. It has been indeed a very happy incident to have 
found them, and I do not claim any praise for it, though 
I may be entitled to some credit if I have succeeded in 
deriving all possible benefit from their information and 
discussions. The impartial public, who shall read my 
Letters, will be able to ascertain to what extent I have 
profited by the facilities afforded me. 

Another great obstacle in the way of strangers desir- 
ing to become acquainted with the real character and con- 
dition of Cuba, is the language spoken in it. A German, 
a Russian, etc., who can speak English or French, will 
travel through Great Britain or France without any diffi- 
culty from the language; but those who have made them- 



VI INTRODUCTORY LETTER. 

selves masters of the Castilian tongue, though they will 
be understood by the greater part of the Creoles, will 
nevertheless find it difficult to understand the dialect of 
the populace, especially with the accuracy and ease ne- 
cessary to become well acquainted with their feelings and 
habits. My readers will also notice that very few tra- 
vellers, indeed, would have related many highiy interest- 
ing facts and occurrences which are scattered through my 
Letters. But besides these there are other obstacles still 
to overcome. It would not be sufficient to understand 
the Creole language if, by long practice and continued 
observations, the traveller had not learned how to bring 
down to the proper level the grand hyperboles so preva- 
lent among the people. It is necessary either to spend 
many years of continual observation in Cuba, or to 
receive the careful explanations of some intelligent native 
before we can arrive at the true meaning of numberless 
phrases in common use by the people. 

There is also prevalent among the Islanders, an almost 
incredible facility in using the phrase •■ me consta" and 
thus vouching for reported occurrences which they have 
neither witnessed, nor learned from reliable sources. If 
the narrators believe them, they do not hesitate to guar- 
antee their accuracy, and become responsible for them, 
with a boldness truly astounding. My own experience 
taught me to scrutinize with great care all the statements 
made to me ; and hence I can affirm with confidence that 
no person will dare to contradict any assertion which I 
classify as true in my Letters. 

The diversity of political opinions prevailing in Cuba, 
on account of the late revolutionary movements, and 
springing from the opposite views of the several parties 
is another powerful obstacle to a foreigner in acquiring 
accurate information. For the very reason that the press 



INTRODUCTORY LETTER. VII 

is not free, and that no one is allowed to gainsay what is 
published in the newspapers, nobody places any reliance 
on what appears in them, even when emanating from the 
government itself ; hence several different versions of cor- 
rect news may seem equally weJl founded, and are pro- 
mulgated even by those who are not inclined in the least 
to alter the truth. Moreover, the people being accustom- 
ed to see the government making the most incredible blun- 
ders, do not consider the most astounding nonsense, with 
which it may be charged, as improbable. 

Great carefulness and continued circumspection are 
therefore necessary to avoid accusing the Spanish officers 
unjustly, or on the other hand failing to give them all the 
credit they really deserve. On this point the reader may 
be sure that the greatest impartiality will be found in my 
Letters, as may very easily be tested by inquiring of any 
competent and well informed person as to the accuracy 
of the facts narrated. 

No anecdote of the many related in the course of my 
writings, has been obtained from any doubtful source, 
but the truth of each has been fully proved, and many 
persons have wondered how certain details could have 
come to light, which were only obtained by continued 
and difficult researches. 

That part of my work which treats on judicial matters 
and the secrets of the management of the tribunals, will 
especially attract the attention of my readers. It will 
easily be seen that there is no misrepresentation here, 
when I assert that I owe this information to an old law- 
yer, intimately acquainted with all the mysteries of that 
complicated and defective piece of social machinery. It is, 
indeed, necessary not only to be a learned jurist, but to 
be endowed with an uncommon spirit of investigation, 
and with an extraordinary sagacity, in order to discover 



VIII INTRODUCTORY LETTER. 

the true origin of the abuses, and the corrupt sources of 
the blunders committed in this important branch of the 
administration. I believe that I have clearly demonstra- 
ted several facts, which may heretofore have seemed 
doubtful ; and one of the most important is that nothing 
good can be expected from rulers while they do not feel 
an interest in the welfare of the people over whom they 
rule. The increasing prosperity of the Island, is there- 
fore effected in spite of the government, and by means 
of its advantageous location, and the prosperity of the 
neighboring countries ; an assertion with which the opin- 
ions of the most learned political economists agree. 

One of the philosophers of olden times said that "truth 
is bitter;" and on this account, both the Spaniards of 
Cuba, who are strongly opposed to the independence of 
the country, and the Creoles, who have manifested them- 
selves anxious to obtain it, will raise an out-cry against 
my Letters, and will argue that the defects which I im- 
pute to them do not exist, or are sketched in too dark 
colors. They will represent me as desirous of favoring 
one or another of the political parties ; and others will 
perhaps think that I have published facts, the knowledge 
of which can be of no use, for the sole purpose of criti- 
cizing and censuring, or to make my Letters interesting, 
and afford amusement to my readers. 

Far from fearing this censure, however, I desire it, for 
the very arguments which my opposers may use will 
serve to demonstrate the accuracy of my assertions and 
the impartiality of my opinions ; and numerous witnesses 
will thus present themselves to produce unwittingly an 
effect precisely opposite to that which they intended. 

Some may question the expediency of publishing the 
whole truth ; but I believe that this ought to be done 
whenever mankind will be benefitted thereby. I am well 



INTRODUTORY LETTER. IX 

aware that as there are flatterers of princes, so flatterers 
of nations are often found ; I am also well satisfied that 
in order to prosper it is almost necessary to be a flatterer, 
but in spite of these facts I do not wish to be such : I 
am anxious to do whatever good my efforts may accom- 
plish, and no good can be accomplished through bad 
means. To enable a physician to cure a disease it is ne- 
cessary to lay before him the whole malady. The Spanish 
as well as the Cuban race, like all others, have faults 
which they should endeavor to amend; both will, perhaps, 
look upon me as an enemy, but no stronger proofs of my 
friendship towards them can be given, than the labor I 
have spent and risk I have incurred of displeasing them. 

It cannot be an immaterial thing to me that my true 
designs should be misrepresented ; and for this reason I 
insist particularly on this point. Should the Cubans or 
Spaniards wish for any other proofs of the integrity of 
my motives, they will find them abundantly in my Let- 
ters. They will also see that I criticise some of our own 
customs, and even some of our laws, when occasion re- 
quires. Finally, on examining my conscience, I cannot 
but confidently expect the approbation of all honest men. 

I cannot hope, however, that my work will be regard- 
ed as entirely free from errors, for some may have escap- 
ed, notwithstanding my great carefulness, my intense de- 
sire, and my unwearied diligence to secure correctness. 
Should any be discovered and pointed out to me, I will 
hasten to rectify them and to acknowledge the service 
with pleasure. 

DEMOTICUS PHILALETHES. 



LETTER I. 

Arrival at Havana — Leave for landing — Precautionary measures of 
the Spanish government — Hotels — Medical advice for prevent- 
ing and curing the yellow fever — Cuban idioms — Important 
observations relative to pronunciation, and other interesting 
facts — Necessity of concealing the names of persons concerned 
with the author. 

My dear Charles : 

Five days after my departure, I arrived in the port of 
Havana, and could have written to you. I have not, 
however, done so, in order to speak to you uninfluen- 
ced by my first impressions, which are likely to be 
erroneous for want of deliberation. I expect I am now 
better prepared, and though you might think it rather 
late, you cannot but find that T have fulfilled my promise. 

At eleven o'clock, A. M., we were passing the Morro. 
The trip seemed to be so short, that I thought I was yet 
hearing your last farewell words. After a short while, 
we anchored not far from the wharf called Luz ; and I 
intended to go immediately into one of the guadanos 
(boats) that had surrounded the steamer on her entrance 
into port. My fellow-passengers, however, advised me 
to wait until I should obtain leave for landing, which 
could not be done before some established proceedings 
should be complied with. It is not so easy to land at 
Havana as at New York, and strangers have to submit 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 



themselves to tlie paternal government of H. C. M. which 
rules the destinies of this faithful Antille, and give 
besides some coins to buy the right of stepping on that 
soil which, as the Spaniards say, is theirs : "This is ours/* 

I, therefore, submitted myself rather unwillingly to the 
law of force, complaining loudly of the ceremony. This 
would, undoubtedly, have brought forth a severe repri- 
mand from the guardias civiles that were on board ; but 
my language was pure English, which they fortunately 
did not understand. 

These proceedings, as I have since been told, are not 
now so severe as they were a few months ago. The 
Spanish government, then, feared the machinations of the 
Fillibusters there, and thought that every steamer was, 
like the Trojan horse, loaded with arms directed against 
them, or at least with reams of revolutionary or incendiary 
papers to weaken the fidelity of the people and of the 
troops. 

We had not, however, trouble of any kind, and they 
allowed us all to land. Then I was taken to a miserable 
looking hotel, which its agents represented as being the 
best in the city. But as I intended to stay in Havana the 
shortest possible time, I did not consider it of conse- 
quence. I had obtained several letters of introduction to 
a wealthy planter, who would send me immediately to his 
plantation about fifteen leagues from the city, where I 
had no occasion to fear the attacks of the yellow-fever. 
I intended to spend there the month of September, when 
that fearful plague begins to subside. From what I have 
observed, I am convinced that a regularly conducted life 
is almost a sure preservative, and if notwithstanding, the 
disease makes its appearance, its cure will be easily effect- 
ed. The best method is never to take oft' the undershirt; 
alwavs to cover well the stomach : to avoid as much as 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 



possible the sun, and heat, as well as any agitation of the 
body; not to take any stimulants at meals ; to drink only 
water, beer or wine, very moderately, and well diluted 
with water; to bathe only once or twice a day at the 
utmost; finally tp live sagement, as the French say, and 
apply to a good physician as soon as the first symptoms 
appear. It is not necessary to entirely forego the eating 
of fruits; but it would be wise to swallow the juice only, 
as the solid part is rather too heavy for the stomach. It 
is also advisable not to drink cold water after being 
excited or agitated, or after having taken any warm 
beverage; and though it is rather painful, the thirst must 
not be quenched, until after some minutes of complete 
repose. 

As all the guests in the hotel were Americans, and the 
servants spoke English, I was not in need of making use 
of my knowledge of the. Spanish language until I went 
out alone in search of the house of my future friend, to 
whom I had recommendatory letters. In New York I 
was considered as quite conversant with the language of 
Cervantes ; but alas, my friend ! Americans wishing to 
visit Cuba, should learn with a Cuban, and more parti- 
cularly if they are business men, besides reading the best 
author?, if they wish to join the literati, as otherwise they 
will find themselves really embarrassed. My acquaint- 
ance in the United States with Spaniards from Europe, 
and not with Uabaneros, had left me entirely ignorant, 
not only of a great many of the most commonly used 
words, but of several idioms and whole phrases that I 
had never heard before. This, together with the different 
pronunciation of the letters 11, c, z, that the Cubans 
pronounce like y and s, produced such a confusion in my 
mind, that I could scarcely understand any thing of the 
conversation I heard. This eonfusion was increased by 



4 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

another cause, still more powerful, the horrible medley 
made by the negros, in whose mouths it might be properly 
said the Castilian tongue entirely disappears. I would 
even dare to say that idioms, among the different tribes 
of Africans, are almost as numerous as their nations. They, 
however, understand each other, and are comprehended 
by the whites also. Until lately, I could not, unfortu- 
nately, form a correct idea of the nature of their conver- 
sation. 

As I am now speaking to you about the language, I 
will conclude this matter, which is by no means uninter- 
esting. I have never seen, indeed, any thing written on 
the subject I am about to discuss, and it is likely that 
something useful to our countrymen may be found by 
those who read this letter. It is the fruit of my inter- 
course with capable persons. 

The Spanish language is more delicate as spoken by the 
Creoles than by the inhabitants of Castilla, Andalucia and 
other parts of the Peninsula. The causes of this are 
chiefly the softer sounds given to the letters above alluded 
to, as well as to the j ; and also the prolonged measure with 
which long syllables are pronounced here. The difference 
is so striking, that a short phrase enables even strangers to 
ascertain whether the speaker is a Creole or a Caslilian. 
The latter speak more rapidly, and end their phrases 
commonly with very brief syllables. The difference 
between them is also easily marked by the fact that 
Spaniards (including those that have received a high 
education) make frequent use of a great many interjec- 
tions, and these are so indecent, that the stranger who at 
last becomes acquainted with their true meaning, scorns 
to accustom himself to such degrading language. To 
form an idea of the disgust produced by such a custom, 
it is necessary to experience the abhorrence it creates 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. O 

on a well constituted mind. The censure of Pope is totally 
disregarded : 

"Immodest words admit of no defence, 
" For want of decency is want of sense." 

The idioms made use of in Cuba are almost all taken 
from Andalucia, and some from the other provinces of 
Spain, and even from France. There are some, however, 
the origin of which is entirely unknown, as for instance, 
the use of the third person of the plural instead of the 
second. So a Spaniard says : iEstais leyendo ? and a 
Cuban : lEstdn ustedes leyendo ? These idioms vary 
throughout the island. The people of Havana, Puerto 
Principe and Santiago de Cuba dhTer from each other in 
the pronunciation and the use of substantives. 

The Guajiros, as the inhabitants of the rural districts 
are called, are those who speak the worst, with the excep- 
tion of the negros. They not only pronounce badly, 
suppressing whole syllables, but give to the words a mean- 
ing different from their true signification. Their language, 
on the other hand, is an uninterrupted hyperbole. They 
never say, " He has a pretty horse," but '' He has the 
prettiest horse in the world ;" and sometimes they do not 
think that a single superlative is sufficient, and use two 
and even three together, which should not be done in 
Spanish: "He wears the very largest hat;" "He was the 
very poorest man;" "Peter was more worse than his 
brother." As exaggeration is never far from falsehood, I 
advise my readers to receive with distrust all the facts 
imparted to them by the guajiros or monteros, though 
they might not be interested in them. 

Notwithstanding the grammatical errors already ex- 
plained, I can assure you that the knowledge of the prin- 
ciples of the Spanish language is very general among 
Cubans ; but in common conversation it is considered a 



6 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

very ridiculous affectation to use proper words instead 
of provincialisms, as also the correct pronunciation ; so 
that the few young men of this island, brought up in 
Spain, have to adopt that of the country as soon as they 
return, to avoid being the subject of their country- 
men's jests. 

I have been very often disappointed in using pure 
Castilian. In one instance I asked for manteca, meaning 
butter, and they gave me lard ; and in another, I wanted 
berzas, which they did not understand, as I ought to have 
used the word coles, &c. These are similar to many 
differences between Englishmen and ourselves ; but I 
rather think they are far more considerable between 
Cubans and Spaniards; — in fact, they are as great as those 
which exist in their political opinions. 

Let me now discard philology and write on other mat- 
ters. I would like to describe, in the first place, my in- 
terview with my recomendado ; and it must not appear 
strange to you that I do not mention his name, because 
were you to publish it, as well as his opinions, which I 
shall have to expose, he would be surely sent to live in 
Spain, without any other cause or ceremony than a ver- 
bal order of Senor Concha. Such punishment is consi- 
dered here as bad as being incarcerated in the Tombs, 
and little less than the garrote. I will therefore desig- 
nate my recomendado, and all persons whom I shall have 
to mention, under fictitious names, and will not describe 
faithfully many places in order to avoid the danger result' 
ing therefrom. 

I cannot conclude this letter without acquainting you, 
that in future communications I hope to transmit for your 
perusal, interesting essays on men, manners and mat- 
ters in general, connected with this beautiful and fruitful 
Island. 



LETTER II. 

Dresses — Carriages (volantes and quitrines) — Drivers (caleseros) — 
Their abusive conduct — A ridiculous journey — Best mode of 
paying the drivers — Advice to fashionable ladies as to the use 
of hackney coaches — Pedestrianism never exercised — Strong 
reasons for it — Useless attempts of the Captain-Generals' wives 
to avoid the perpetual employment of carriages. 

I had landed, dressed after the New-York fashion, but 
following- my host's advice, I put on the dress commonly 
used here, to conceal as much as possible the Yankee 
aspect, as all Americans are called by that name. The 
d ress consists of silk or linen clothing, except the coat, which 
is sometimes made of cloth, as well as the pantaloons, 
requisite in cold days. Cotton stockings are commonly 
worn by those who cannot afford to have silk ones; boots or 
high shoes, are very seldom seen, and flannel is used by 
few. I went out, therefore, after obtaining some neces- 
sary information, dressed after the Creoles' fashion. I 
did not accept the services of an interpreter, who are by 
no means abundant, more on account of a desire to take 
advantage of my Spanish, than from economical views. 

I needed a carriage, as the distance (less than a mile) 
was pronounced great. The Hotel was near the wharf, 
and my recomendado lived out of the city walls. I called 
a calesero de alquiler (driver), and told him, on going 



b lett.:ks from ouba. 

into the carriage, "Calle de la Reina " (Reina street). 
He did not answer, and turning his hand round, struck 
the horse most vigorously three or four times with the 
whip. The poor animal seemed scarcely able to support 
its negro rider, together with the ponderous saddle of fifty 
or more pounds in which he was hooked. We were 
running, however, at great speed, and I laughed at the 
ridiculous appearance of my equipage, thinking what my 
friends would have said, had they seen me thus ll Jixed" 
in Broadway. 

Just fancy a very old and worn out thin looking-horse, 
with two ulcers in the breast, in the same place which 
supports the collar ; its long braided tail forming an arch, 
the end of which was tied to a button at the back of the 
saddle with a hempen string; the reins two ropes, and the 
saddle lining torn out in several places, so that the hair 
with which it was stuffed could be seen. The unclean- 
liness of the driver was still greater than that of the horse, 
if that could be excelled. He had on a very old broken and 
bruised straw hat; a jacket full of large patches and 
holes ; a shirt almost as black as its owner's skin; boots 
sui generis, that I had never seen before, and which 
wonderfully supported from its under side, by means of a 
strap, some old hanging shoes ; and neither cravat nor 
waistcoat. Besides this, think of the unpleasant noise 
produced by the badly adjusted pieces of the carriage, 
which, with the motion, seemed to separate, break off, 
and sink with me at every revolution of the wheels, either 
when they fell in deep holes or whirled over large pieces 
of stone, that unfortunately were very frequently met with 
on the road ; and lastly, the continual contortions made 
by the negro, with his body on all sides of the saddle, 
accompanied by heavy blows with the whip, and indecent 
shouts. 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 9 

I was completely bewildered by the peculiarity of my 
situation, and the novelty of my progress. I was not 
only ashamed of my appearance, but indignant at the 
conduct of the negro for his cruelty towards the jaded 
beast, and the obscenity of his language. The worst of 
it is, that, as far as I have observed, they use the same 
epithets without regard to the class of passengers they 
carry. The conversation of the negros is truly intoler- 
able; and the countess of Merlin, in her small work on the 
customs of Havana, had already remarked that there 
could not be chaste ears in this capital. 

My indignation increased against the driver, when on 
arriving at the end of my journey, I stretched my hand 
and offered him one peseta (20 cents) which is the lawful 
charge; but he refused to take it, and asked one doblon 
($4.25). They assuredly make careless strangers, or those 
vho do not care for money, pay it ; but I was well posted 
jp in these matters, and throwing the coin inside the 
volante, went towards the door of the house for which I 
was looking. The negro alighting from the horse, rushed 
towards me in a state of madness, shouting a deluge of 
words that I did not understand, and which were, proba- 
bly, disgustingly obscene expressions. I thought he was 
going to assault me, and raising my cane I stepped for- 
ward ; he then went backward, and believing that he 
was already satisfied, I intended to enter; but he came 
again, his anger having subsided, begging with hat in 
hand. I then drew one peseta more, whereupon he bow- 
ed, and went to take the other that was in the volante. 
So my journey ended, and according to the general opi- 
nion , had it not been for that spontaneous movement 
of raising the cane, the negro would have grossly insulted 
me in spite of the Bando de buen gobierno (Police regu- 
lations). The guardias civiles (policemen), it is said, take 



10 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

care only to vex the people, and watch all their actions 
and words to represent them as fillibusters, or at least as 
suspected persons, to Francisco Garcia Munoz, first spy 
of Her Catholic Majesty, in her almost only dominion in 
America. 

As I have already spoken of vehicles, I will continue 
this subject, hoping that it will be useful to our country- 
men who may happen to read this, and come afterwards to 
the island. There is, as in New York, a tariff for hack- 
ney carriages, and it is even provided that a printed copy 
be fixed inside. As policemen, however, are not always 
at hand, it would be convenient to carry a cane, taking 
care that it be thinner than the thumb, as thicker ones are 
prohibited, and the owner runs the risk of forfeiture and 
a fine. In spite, however, of this regulation, there is 
scarcely a carriage with this tariff, and it would be well 
to obtain all the necessary information before hiring one. 
It must be noticed that drivers are in the habit of plunder- 
ing strangers ; that they know them at once, even in their 
manner of walking, and that before letting them enter 
their carriage, they extort from them monstrous prices. 
It is, therefore, expedient not to make any previous bar- 
gain, but let them fall in the trap set by themselves ; feign- 
ing to yield to their exactions, pay them the regular price 
and raise the cane, as I did, if they intend to attack. For 
long journeys, taking many hours, it is better, though 
dearer, to hire a carriage at the stahles ; they are more 
genteel, and the prices are also limited beforehand. This 
is the best way to prevent being imposed upon by the 
drivers, and of avoiding a quarrel with these insolent 
plunderers ; it has also the advantage of making the per- 
son be considered better off, as in common ones it is rather 
ridiculous to be seen in the street or in the j?asco (prome- 
nade). I advise American ladies never to hire any other 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 11 

than those kept at the stables, and to be particular to tell 
the owners to send good and decent ones, without which 
they would not be taken. They must not even think of 
going on foot, though the distance be only two blocks ; 
it is not considered genteel, not only on account of the nar- 
row, dirty streets, without sidewalks, but also from the 
risk of meeting blasphemous, odorous, and drunken negros. 
It is generally believed that the reluctance of the ladies 
of Havana to walk in the streets arises from extravagance 
or excessive pride, but it is only a necessity. Besides 
the inconveniencies already referred to, they are exposed 
to insults in a country where men think they are entitled 
to address a lady whom they have never seen before, and 
tell her unceremoniously: "How handsome you are ! " 
This is a Spanish custom : a lady at Madrid considers 
herself as almost despised, if on passing before a cluster 
of young men, she does not receive from them a requie- 
bro or dicliito (endearing expresion), and although it is 
not the same in Havana, these compliments are not re- 
ceived as indignantly and contemptuously as their bad 
taste warrants. 

Ladies have been induced to walk in the streets : the 
wives of some Captain-generals (believing that they were 
going to be imitated ) have endeavoured to introduce that 
fashion, alighting from the carriage in the promenades ; 
but they have been disappointed, the example not having 
been followed ; the objections being powerful. A proof 
of this, is, that in the wider and less crowded streets 
out of the walls, it is not uncommon to see ladies on foot. 
It is said, as a very remarkable instance, that the wife 
of Captain-General Roncali used to go very often on foot 
to Lombard's furniture warehouse, a few steps only from 
the palace. 



LETTER III. 

A warm reception — Impossibility of publishing the Amphytryon's 
name — His family — A jealous mother — Curious anecdotes — 
Danger of being poisoned — Post mortem examinations — Ven- 
geance of slaves — Frightful cases — Interest of masters in 
concealing the crimes of their negros. 

I decline describing to you what is easy to be con- 
ceived ; my warm reception, delivery of my creden- 
tials, introduction to the family, &c. ; but it is only just to 
say that I was very affectionately welcomed, and was 
received as if I had been an old friend. In less than half 
an hour, I considered myself already as at home, and such 
was our intimacy, that they laughed at the blunders I 
made in my Spanish. The raillery of the young ladies 
was pleasingly provoking ; they seemed determined to 
"go ahead," until I partially silenced their mischievous 
little batteries by the discharge of a few New England 
anecdotes, which excited their winning smiles and risible 
faculties. 

It is truly painful to me that I am restricted from giv- 
ing publicity to the name of my affectionate Amphytryon, 
and his amiable family. I am fearful of disclosures, and 
it is necessary to have patience, until I return and whis- 
per it to you. You cannot imagine how deep my grati- 
tude is for the great benefits I have received in this 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 13 

house, and I should never end this letter, were I to 
describe them. 

The family consisted of two male and three female 
children ; but that day ten persons sat at the table, as two 
fresh visitants had arrived after me. We had no appetite, 
on account of having indulged in fruits, more particularly 
in anones, which, according to Mariano Velazquez de 
la Cadena, is "the most delicious American fruit," and 
dinner was neglected for a sociable chat. Some times 
we could not understand each other as I made inquiries 
about Cuba, and they, before answering, put questions to 
me respecting the United States. The general conversation 
was afterwards divided into two branches : my host and 
the two strangers began at once to discuss the endless 
Cuba question, and the other were asking and answering 
trifles. The separation was made with regard to ages, 
and we talked accordingly ; the lady, however, was on 
our side ; she presided over it, and paid particular atten- 
tion to our narrations, with that interest, which shows the 
diffident vigilance of a jealous mother. 

The attention of the juvenile side was quickly directed 
to the conversation of the old gentlemen, who had pro- 
nounced in their discussion the name of a person whose 
"upper ten style " had amazed the city in those days ; not 
on account of its been seldom seen, but for the ignorance of 
the origin of so muck sudden wealth. The public curio- 
sity had been naturally excited to ascertain irs source, and 
after many inquiries and conjectures, it was believed that 
a clue had been found to the mystery in the perpetration 
of a horrible crime, supposed to have been committed on 
an uncle of his, a few years before, by the suddenly rich 
person, aided by a cousin, who also became wealthy. 
The story is too long for a letter, and I must forego its 
recital. ]t may be deduced from it, however, that a 



14 LETTLRS FROM CUBA. 

person can he poisoned in Havana, with little effort being 
made for the discovery of the perpetrator, even if the 
victim has had the most alarming symptoms, and there 
are strong grounds for suspicion against the people by 
whom the sufferer was surrounded. 

I made several inquiries, and was alarmed at the apathy 
exhibited by the authorities, on learning that as judges 
are not paid for prosecutions in criminal cases, unless urged 
by any of the parties, they only act when pressed by them. 
1 learned also, that the relatives of the dead are very 
often prevented from doing it on account of the costs, 
which are considerable in instances of this kind. Cases of 
poisoning by revengeful slaves are, therefore, very com- 
mon, and their victims go to the grave, it being believed 
that they have suffered a natural death ; and, as the pe- 
cuniary interest of the new owners or heirs is in opposi- 
tion to the discovery of the crime and the punishment of 
the slave, if found guilty, they, instead of promoting the 
inquest, endeavour to lessen the suspicions, in order not 
to lose his value, as they do not receive any compensa- 
tion if the slave is garroted. It is not long since the wife 
of a lawyer, named Valdes Fauli, died with all the symp- 
toms of poisoning, and it was not till some months after- 
wards that her death by ai-senic was discovered, on 
account of a quarrel that took place between the guilty 
parties, who denounced each other in such a manner as to 
preclude all possibility of concealing the fact. This disco- 
very cost the lawyer two or three negros, who were gar- 
roted in Havana. If the value of the slaves were defrayed 
by the public treasury, the cause for concealment would 
no longer exist. 

Another case has been related to me, which proves 
how great is the risk of the owners in becoming accom- 
plices by concealing the crimes of their slaves, in order not 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 15 

to lose their labor. A widow lady (whose name I do not 
mention, as her sons might suffer by it), whipped a negro 
boy, about 14 or 15 years old. The same day she was 
attacked by dysentery, and no other cause could be 
assigned for it than a cup of coffee and milk that the 
negro had brought to her. She suspected, and having 
frightened him in order to obtain a confession, he acknow- 
ledged that he had put some powders in the coffee, which, 
a man passing by the street had given to him. This last was 
certainly false, as his other confessions showed ; and he 
only made it, believing that he was thereby exculpated. 
The lady died the following day; she was buried without 
any inquest being held ; the sons sent the negro to the 
plantation, and punished him by flogging ; loaded him 
with irons, and condemned him to work always shackled. 
This punishment evinces that the owners believed in the 
guilt of the negro. They did not want, notwithstanding, 
to lose him, though their mother was the victim ! It 
seems incredible that in a people who claim to be civilized, 
such a state of things should prevail, openly opposing duty 
to conveniency; interesting in the concealment of crimes 
the persons who are most able to effect their discovery. 

In the few hours that this dinner and conversation lasted, 
Ibecame acquainted with the history of Havana, and cur- 
rent events; I also learned much of the Creole language; 
and I even dare to say that I thought I had become so 
accustomed to the climate, as to be out of reach of the 
attacks of the yellow-fever, taking into consideration how. 
familiar I was with all the customs of the capital of the 
Slave Queen of the Antilles. 



LETTER IV. 

Courting ladies at the windows — The young lady, (nifia) though she 
may be old — Specimens of amatory epistles — A witty answer — 
Spanking through the newspapers — Marriages — Object of the 
Spaniards in marrying — Dispensations from the Bishop or Pope 
to allow the marriage of near relations — Aristocracy — Easy 
mode of high ennoblement — Purchased titles — Fidelity of wives 
— Virtue of the Cuban ladies — Antipathies bet wen Cubans and 
Spaniards. 

During that dinner, I spoke to you of in my last letter, 
I was observing, while talking, a scene that was taking 
place near the iron grates of the opposite house, and which 
I will not omit, as it describes the habits of the people in 
love matters. A very well dressed young man, was speak- 
ing from the outside with a very pretty young lady, who 
was standing at one of the corners of the window. The 
lover was in such a position that those persons who were 
in the parlor of the young lady's house could not see him. 
Sometimes it happened that one of them approached the 
window; she then gave notice to the young man, who 
would immediately start and stop at the corner of the 
block, staying there watching. As soon as the risk was 
over, he would come slowly to his post in order to continue 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 17 

his interrupted conversation. What a troublesome way 
of courting a lady ! I gave notice to the others of what 
was passing, and it afforded me much information as to 
what I am about to communicate. Sometimes this is seen 
in each of the windows of the one-story houses, and it is 
not very-uncommon to see two in each ! This generally 
occurs when the suitor is not admitted in the house, on 
account of not having: had an introduction, or when the 
parents of the girl disapprove the acquaintance of their 
daughter with the suitor. As unmarried young ladies 
do not go out alone, they have no opportunities of com- 
municating with their lovers, and they avail themselves, 
therefore, of the only one possible. This method, how- 
ever, is generally condemned, and avoided, even by the 
young men, who fear to depreciate the character of the lady 
of their thoughts. If they cannot visit them, they take 
advantage of all opportunities of seeing them in public 
places, viz. at church, or at a common friend's house. The 
chief resource made use of is an epistolary correspondence, 
in which the negros, or servant girls of the nina (young 
lady) act as mediators. That name is generally given by 
way of tenderness to unmarried young ladies, or even to 
those who are married, provided their parents are Jiving; 
these are called los viejos ("the old folks"), though they 
may be young. I have seen some of these amatory let- 
ters, and they have afforded me much amusement. They 
are very funny ; the love stricken heroes put their oratorical 
resources to the stretch ; they exhaust their erudition, and 
create the greatest hyperboles to show the vehemence of 
their passions, and make most impossible promises. One 
of these letters has become so widely known for its ludi- 
crous style and incredible nonsense, that there are many 
persons who know it by heart. I have a copy of it and 
of some others; and though I have tried to make a trans- 



18 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

lation, I have given up the idea as far beyond my capa- 
bility. It commences thus : 

Sta. Incompa.ka.btjs: 
Los concentricos, enfatieos i acatalecticas disturbios que tumburizau 
la llama de mi simpatico y armoaico carina, &l'., &.c. 

Another, from an ardent student in physics, a little less 
ridiculous, begins thus: "Miss: Your beautiful imajrehad 
scarcely struck my retina by means of the convergent 
rays, when my cava vena was filled with hot blood, as if 
I had tasted the nectar of the Gods, or the heavenly Am- 
brosia, &c." It is said that a lover, not trusting his own 
resources, and not being of an inventive mind, sent to 
his sweet-heart an abstract of a certain letter from Rous- 
seau's "Nouvelle Eloise." The nifia who was acquainted 
with that volume, answered in these words : "In page . . . 
of the same book from which yours was copied, you will 
find the answer." It is useless to say, that in Havana the 
Muses are also invoked for these cases, as they are in the 
United States. The censorship allows it, because every- 
thing that is not of a political character is deemed good, 
though the manners may be thereby corrupted and the 
people brutalized. I am told that endearments of this kind 
are kept up for years, and do not always end with marriage. 
It is not uncommon for the lover to disappoint his bride 
under frivolous pretexts, on account of natural inconstancy 
or for a more golden prospect. But it is only just to say 
in favor of the fair sex of Havana, that T have not heard 
of a single instance of the lady having been inconstant, and 
if it has ever happened that she has dismissed the lover, 
there has always been a powerful motive, and in most 
cases it has been on account of his infidelity. 

Cubans, generally speaking, marry rather late; the men 
usually when about thirty years old, and the women when 
twenty-two or twenty-five. You will be perhaps surprised 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 19 

at this fact, as I have been, particularly if you take into 
account the influence of the climate, and desire to have it 
explained ; but I do not dare to undertake a disquisition 
that I deem exceedingly difficult, and for which I confess 
myself entirely unprepai'ed. The Creole young men, if 
I am not mistaken, are more disinterested in the selection of 
their brides, than the creole women are of their bride- 
grooms, and they yield more easily to the impulse of love; 
but young ladies keep more in view some other considera- 
tions, as wealth, and this not so particularly as birth. It 
is quite the reverse with Spaniards from the Peninsula, 
who only want to make a good bargain, and nothing deters 
them. If the lady is rich, no other qualification is requisite. 
Cuban young ladies prefer to marry their countrymen, 
and it is not before losing all hopes of doing so, that they 
accept the patones (long and fiat-footed Spaniards), as they 
call them. I could produce many instances to prove this 
assertion ; of which I have not the least doubt. The marri- 
ages tratados (those effected by the parents from interested 
views, without consulting the taste of their daughters), are 
more common than what is generally believed. No com- 
pulsatory cases, however, of parents towards their children 
are seen; at least the violence is not an open one. They 
make use, notwithstanding, of indirect means, as for in- 
stance, not allowing their daughters any intercourse but 
with those persons who they think are suitable to them. 
Hence the frequency of marriages between near relations^ 
and as these are prohibited by the canons, it is necessary 
to apply to the Bishop, and in many instances even to the 
Pope, to obtain the leave ( di spensa ) .' This is not granted, 
however, without giving a sum of money that increases 
when the kindred is nearer. The denials of parents to 
allow their daughters to marry, are oftener seen than 
their compulsion; and they are sometimes made without 



20 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

any cause, but more frequently with strong motives for 
the determination. 

This opposition is useless, as the law blindly protects 
marriages, generally even when there are probabilities of 
their being unfortunate. The Captain Generals have author- 
ity to supply the consent of the parents, after ascertaining 
in a very summary way the causes of their dissent. The 
reason of the disenso (disagreement) commonly originates 
from difference of rank between the gentleman and lady ; 
and this name is given to the positions they occupy in the 
scale of aristocracy. 

The people of Cuba are most fastidious and intolerant 
on this point. There is nothing, however, so difficult to 
prove in Havana as an inferior degree of nobility. I The 
most plebeian, on going to Spain and taking with him 
some dobloons, can obtain letters patent of nobility, which 
prove that he is twenty or thirty times (according to the 
amount of money he wishes to spend) more noble than 
his opponent, though it may be a notorious fact that be is 
a mulatto or quarteron. I could name over half a dozen 
of titulos de Castilla belonging to this class. 

Marriages are happy; with very few exceptions, the wife 
never fails to fulfil her duties; quite the reverse of what 
happens in Spain, where conjugal fidelity is an excep- 
tion. The Cuban ladies are highly virtuous ; they love 
their husbands and children, and sacrifice to them the 
affections they had before marriage; they love to nurture 
their offspring themselves, and only employ nurses when 
they are unable to fulfil that maternal duty; they dislike 
and strenuously refuse to separate from them, but are always 
ready to do it when the object of their separation is their 
education and improvement. 

Though literary instruction is not common among them, 
they nevertheless possess the knowledge necessary to the 



LETTERS FROM CUB \. 21 

mother of a family, and many superintend extensive busi- 
ness, as satisfactorily as those of the household, to which 
they attend at the same time. A lavish woman is very 
seldom met with ; they are economical, yet not stingy, and 
they very seldom refuse giving alms, even when they 
doubt of the sincerity of the solicitor. 

In regard to patriotism, I would dare to say that when 
they are not married to Spaniards, they surpass the men; 
and even then, if they have republican children, they 
sometimes belong to their party. The most common oc- 
currence, however, in these cases, is their becoming neu- 
tral and conciliatory in their party quarrels. 

You will easily imagine that this sketch of the Cuban 
ladies cannot be applied to all; but if we examine well 
the exceptions, we shall find motives to confirm the rule, 
instead of doing the injustice of generalizing by them; and 
at the same time we shall experience a feeling of admira- 
tion at their not being more prevalent. This is the cause 
why scandalous stories produce more effect here than in 
other places, where, from their frequent occurrence, they 
are scarcely mentioned. 

You may, perhaps, remark that I speak more of what 
I have been told, than of what I have observed, and in 
doing this you would not be entirely right. It is true that 
I could not have learnt much in so short a time, but 
it is a fact, that my own observations and the particulars 
obtained from other persons have confirmed what I had 
before ascertained. 

I will not close this letter without relating to you a 
scene that took place during my first visit, and which 
might seem unimportant. The house was already lighted, 
and we were amusing ourselves with a lively chat, when 
a Spaniard, a merchant, and an old friend of the family, 
made his appearance. You cannot imagine the change 



22 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

that suddenly took place, not only in the conversation, 
which became reserved and tedious, but also in the coun- 
tenances of the colloquists. The girls left their seats, and 
in order to make them return, the lady had to send messa- 
ges to them by a little negro girl; the young men spoke 
to me only; the "old folks" yawned and looked angrily 
at the Spaniard, and only the father kept up the discourse 
with him, not without evincing his displeasure. What a 
marked antipathy ! There is no doubt that Creoles and 
Spaniards live here as dogs and cats locked up in the 



LETTER V. 

System of Agriculture — Land surveying- — Staple productions — Slaves 
— Their rights as compared with those of the United States 
— Sugar plantations (injcnios). 

1 have been in several plantations of different sizes and 
kinds, and I snail make a few remarks concerning the 
agriculture of this island. 

Notwithstanding the commercial intercourse with the 
States, agricultural pursuits here are as yet very imper- 
fect, as you will perceive by the following hasty review. 

The awards of land were made by Mercedes, that is, 
title-deeds given by the common council of the districts 
where they were located. They were granted under 
certain conditions, for raising cattle, and were called ha- 
ciendas or corrales ; the first named being circular areas of 
four leagues diameter (less than twenty thousand yards), 
and the others two leagues diameter. As the boundaries 
are circles, there are always between them gores called 
realengoSj which belong to the exchequer, and of which 
a portion is given to the person who first discovers their 
existence. But, as those who originally received the mer- 
cedes located themselves too near each other, the circles 
overlap the adjacent ones, and these are called segmentos 
or lenticulas. Hence innumerable law-suits arise, as also an 



24 LETTERS FROM CUT. V. 

inequality in the distribution of property, as surveyors 
generally very imperfectly understand their business, and 
do not set out circles, but very awkward polygons, which 
cause endless disputes relative to boundaries. 

Besides the bad shape of these large estates, they have 
another disadvantage, that is, their extent ; only a very 
small portion of them is cultivated, and the balance is left 
with the grass growing on it, which dries up as soon as 
the drought commences, and hence the great yearly mor- 
tality of cattle. In both these large farms, cattle, hogs 
and horses are raised, as well as poultry, some sheep and 
a very few goats. As there are no fences, the only way of 
ascertaining the stock which belongs to each proprietor, is 
to mark, at certain periods of the year, the different species 
found inside the boundaries. They are rented out, and the 
price is regulated by the number of animals contained ; it 
being the duty of the farmer to deliver at the expiration 
of the lease, the same number that he received ; so that 
he sells the best in order to obtain a higher price, and only 
leaves those of an inferior kind. 

Nowhere in this island is the operation of hay-making 
understood. In the rainy season there is too much pas- 
ture, and in droughts great scarcity is experienced ; so 
that it may I e properly said, that the animals grow wild 
without receiving any attention from men. So far is this 
true, that there is not in these farms a single stable or 
shed, where herds could find a shelter, and their only pro- 
tection from rain, or the excesive heat, is what they can 
find themselves under the trees. This system is not so 
prejudicial in Cuba, as in other countries where wild beasts 
are common, as the only enemy of cattle here, is the wild 
dog, and this is not very abundant. 

In the haciendas and coi-ralcs, they only raise corn, rice, 
tobacco and vegetables in a sufficient quantity to support 



LETTERS FROM CUD A. 



the persons living on the estate. From ten to twelve 
acres are commonly set apart for a field ofplatanos (bana- 
nas), and as much more for one of sweet potatos. Corn 
is sometimes sown, furrowing the ground once with 
its natural grass on, and three or four seeds are thrown 
in at every thirty or th*irty-six inches; this distance is com- 
monly left between the furrows. Shortly after sowing, 
all the grass is removed by means of short cutlasses, called 
here machetes de calabozo. When the plant is two feet 
high, its sides are covered with earth by means of a hoe, 
and the field is sometimes, though rarely, cleaned again 
with the cutlass. The ground in other places is prepared, 
after the months of March and April, by passing the plough 
twice over it, and furrowing just before depositing the 
seed. A month after this, the field is cleared and the earth 
removed by passing the plough between every two fur- 
rows. One caballeria, that is, about thirty-three and a 
half acres, commonly yields one hundred fanegas (100000 
ears) of large size, and about ten or twelve of small size 
ears. 

Rice requires greater care and preparation, and is more 
profitable than corn, when rains are abundant and timely. 
There are no machines to peel it, and those driven by hand, 
brought from the States, have not given satisfaction. They 
use a large wooden mortar made out of the trunk of a tree, 
where the rice is put and pounded by a man with a heavy 
pestle, with much trouble and a slowness that is easy to 
imagine. 

The plough used here is very simple, though it does 
not answer the purpose well. It has only one piece of 
iron, that is, the plough-share. It is drawn by two oxen 
driven by a man, with a rope attached to the gristle of the 
animal's nose. A solid and inflexible yoke is tightly tied 
by ropes to the horns and foreheads of both animals, so 



26 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

that their heads are firmly united, and cannot be moved 
without dragging that of the other. 

When haciendas are fdemolidas) set apart for cultiva- 
tion, they are divided in parcels of several caballerias, 
or eighteen cordeles square, each of which is •twenty- 
four varas long. On these lots* the sugar plantations 
(injenios), the pasture grounds (potreros), and the farms 
(sitios or estancias) are set out. The first take commonly 
forty caballerias and yield according to their dotaciones 
or number of slaves, and the quantity of sugar cane sown, 
from three hundred to twelve thousand or more boxes of 
sugar yearly. The average crop, is about two thousand 
boxes, which is commonly made with one hundred negros. 
The product of each caballeria varies from one thousand 
to three thousand arrobas (twenty-five pounds each) of 
sugar. In order to avoid recapitulating what is already 
published I shall omit the description of the process for 
manufacturing sugar, and shall only refer to peculiarities, 
with which it is not likely you are acquainted. 

' The negros are divided into two gangs, in order 
to work all night, and to avoid the want of fresh hands. 
The gang which works for instance, from twelve o'clock 
on Monday night to four o'clock, A.M. on Tuesday morn- 
ing, goes on working to twelve o'clock at night of the 
same day, so that they do not sleep in twenty-four hours, 
while the other gang has slept twice in the same time. 
This inconvenience could be easily avoided if each gang 
would work during the same hours every week; but I have 
been told that the slaves prefer the other arrangement. 

In the sugar plantations, where negros are well treated, 
the following rules are observed. 

At Ave Maria, that is, shortly before sunrise a bell is 
rung, and the negros go out of their boliios or lodgings to 
prepnre the oxen for the carts, to begin cutting down the 



LETTERS FROM CUBA, 27 

cane, and perform the business of the sugar house. Nearly 
all those who go to the field take with them some plant- 
ains kept from their allowance of the day before or found 
by themselves. The work continues uninterruptedly 
till noon ; when they go again to the houses (batei) after 
hearing the bell, where they have a release of two hours, 
and dinner is given to them either cooked or raw. It 
consists of a piece of tasajo brujo (jerked beef), or dry 
codfish, weighing about four or six ounces, with some 
plantains and sweet potatos. Many slaves prefer to take 
their dinner raw, though they may have the trouble of 
cooking it afterwards, as they are then able to sell it to the 
Catalonians, who usually keep taverns in the vicinity. 
These exemplary innkeepers retail, with an easy consci- 
ence, the articles stolen from the estates by the negros. 

In some plantations, another allowance is given to them, 
either before commencing their labors in the morning, or 
when they retire at night. At sunset, the oracion is rung, 
and the work in the field is suspended to continue inside 
the buildings all night. The drivers tie the oxen to stakes 
driven in the same ground, where the cane has been cut 
during the day, in order to enable them to eat the shoots 
that have been left on it, and which constitute the prin- 
cipal food of these animals during the zqfra (crop). 

The grinding in some plantations, ceases on Friday, 
and in others on Saturday night; the work, however, conti- 
nues on Sunday till nine or ten o'clock in the morning, 
when a recess is granted till five or six P. M., at which 
time, the mill (trapiche) begins to work again. 

A parcel of land (conuco) is allotted to each negro every 
year, the products of which belong to him: it is devoted 
to the cultivation of rice, ochra, peanut, beneseed, &c, 
during his leisure hours. Besides Sundays, there are 
many days throughout the year when all work is suspended. 



28 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

They are denominated ^zesta entera, and are marked in the 
Almanac with a double cross. Slaves are also allowed to 
raise a pig, poultry, sometimes a mare, and they can freely 
dispose of their stock. Many have amassed sufficient 
money to liberate their wives and children, and even them- 
selves. When work is pressing, a bargain is made with 
the slaves to labor during the hours of recess of the festi- 
val da$rs, for fifty cents each. This is also the price 
allowed them for about a cord of wood cut during their 
own time. Twice or three times a year, a shirt and 
pantaloons of sheeting are given to each negro, and a gown 
to the women. At Christmas a blanket or woollen jacket 
is also given to them. From time to time, tobacco scraps are 
distributed for the pipe, and after having been exposed to 
rain, a small glass of aguardiente de cana (brandy) is ad- 
ministered, as a preventive to disease. 

Slaves in Cuba have certain rights of which they are 
deprived in the United States. Among the municipal 
-authorities the sindico takes the responsibility of seeing 
that these rights are fully enjoyed, and he cannot exact 
any thing from the negros, though they may possess pro- 
perty. He can compel the owner to give the negro permis- 
sion for three days, to look for another master, without 
his being obliged to assign the cause. If the price asked 
is considered too high by the sindico, appraisers are 
appointed by both parties to regulate it. The slave may 
at any time give to his master fifty or more dollars on 
account of the price of his freedom, and require him to 
declare what that price is, as it cannot be raised afterwards 
from any cause. Negros, who have given this amount, are 
called coartados ; they are entitled to have certain days 
to themselves, and are sometimes allowed to work on their 
own account by paying to the master one shilling daily 
for each one hundred dollars of their price. Negros 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 29 

having - offspring by female slaves, purchase their freedom 
by paying from fifty to one hundred dollars after the birth, 
and the owner cannot prevent the mother from exercis- 
ing her maternal duty. It is by no means uncommon to 
meet with slaves who, having the requisite amount of 
money do not want to obtain liberty; and this, strange as 
it may appear, is sometimes seen even with negros devoted 
to the labors of the sugar plantations, which are considered 
the most distressing. Some have the singular pleasure 
of keeping all their savings in earthenware pots (botjasj, 
hidden under the earth, and they sometimes die carrying 
the secret with them. Another rare occurrence is, that 
while domestic servants are punished by sending them to 
the plantations for a certain length of time, those who 
belong to the estates consider it almost as a punishment 
to be sent to Havana. I asked the cause of this of a negro 
who had been given to me as a guide, and who was on a 
mule before my horse. He answered, that in the country 
they were not always under the eye of the master, as it 
happened in the cities. He told me also that he greatly 
preferred belonging to a sugar, than to a coffee planta- 
tion, though in the latter labor was not so hard, as in the 
former food was to be found anywhere. 



LETTER VI. 

Coffee estates (Cafetales). — Pasture grounds (Potteros). — Farms 
(Sitios). — Orchards (Estancias). — Colored population. 

The cultivation of coffee was entirely abandoned several 
years ago, in so much that many coffee plantations have 
been sold without the negros, for the value of the land, 
giving gratis the crops, fences and buildings, which 
amounted to a considerable sum. When coffee sold for 
twenty and even for twenty-four dollars a cwt., these 
plantations were an ornament to the island, as they were 
in fact large and beautiful gardens. The product of 200000 
trees in abundant years was considered to be one thousand 
cwts.; but the following year this product was only one 
half or less. Each caballeria was divided into four 
squares, and in each of these, ten thousand trees were 
planted in perfectly straight rows, from fifty-eight to 
sixty inches apart, in every way, and left growing till 
about four feet high, when they were pruned and kept 
always of that height. At regular distances, fruit trees 
were planted, though it was more common to make rows 
on the side streets (guardarayas), the borders of which 
were sown with yerba de guinea, answering the double 
purpose of pasture and ornament. After the coffee-tree 
was planted, no other care was bestowed upon it than to 
take away the grass, and to heap vegetable remains round 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 31 

its trunk as manure. Few planters removed the earth 
before this process. The grain was exposed to the sun to 
dry perfectly and taken afterwards to a mill made of a 
heavy vertical wheel, which passing over it separated the 
shell; thence it was carried to a fan-mill faventador) which 
blew off the shell, and the berries being then assorted to 
form the different classes of primer a, caracolitto and tria- 
elie, were thrown into bags, which were well filled. 

The potreros are devoted to breeding hogs, poultry, 
horses or cattle. The best food for the first named is the 
fruit of the palma real (pdlmiclie), the roots and the grass. 
They are fattened with corn, and care is taken to kill 
some of the young pigs to enable the sow to raise more 
easily her litter. A large and badly built hut is com- 
monly made for the chickens, and sticks are laid across at 
different heights for them to perch upon. On the ground 
nests are placed for their eggs. As the gates are open in 
the forenoon they lay mostly on the grass, by which a 
great many are lost; and as there are no enclosures for 
young chickens, many are killed by the majd (a snake), 
the wild dogs, or the showers. 

In regard to the rearing of mules and horses, very few 
bestow on it the required care and attention. There are 
some nevertheless of good qualities and at low prices, as a 
serviceable team may be bought for one hundred dollars, 
and I have not heard of any having cost over five hundred. 
Some saddle horses sell for the latter price, and a few for 
something higher. Horses from the United States do not 
obtain high prices, as they require much more care and 
expense, and do not endure the climate as well as those 
raised on the island. 

Less attention is still paid to the rearing of cattle, as I 
do not know of any pains being taken to obtain good 
stock to improve the species. 



32 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

The product of a cow amounts to little, as the scarcity 
of easy communications makes it almost worthless. The 
cheese manufactured is lightly estimated, and the heavy 
tax of from seven to nine dollars exacted by the exche- 
quer for each animal that is slaughtered for consumption, 
after its owner has been obliged to pay tithes, swallows 
all the profits of the breeder. These estates are, therefore 
but slightly profitable. 

Sitios are only potreros on a small scale, of from one 
half to four or six caballerias of land. Those who culti- 
vate them are commonly lessees, who are happy to be 
able to pay the rent a r ter living miserably. In some of 
these farms the yuca is largely cultivated for the manufac- 
ture of casabe, which is a kind of bread made in circular 
slices of about twelve inches in diameter, and about one 
twelfth or one-sixth of an inch in thickness. Its con- 
sumption was formerly quite considerable, though it is 
now of little importance. It is sold for three or five cents 
each torta or slice. 

Estancias are orchards, which furnish a supply of vege- 
tables to the neighboring towns. Those in the vicinity 
of Havana are very profitable, as they find a ready sale 
for every thing produced in them, as vegetables, fruits, 
flowers &c, &c. Hence the high prices obtained for 
these lands, which being worth on an average four or five 
hundred dollars per caballeria throughout the island, reach 
in these places four, five, and even seven thousand dollars. 
As manures are indispensable to them, more industry is 
exercised in their cultivation, though not much care is 
bestowed on the preparation of fertilizers. 

A great deal has been lately written on Cuba, but more 
especially on the system of slavery, the slave trade, and 
whatever relates to this race, and it would be easy to 
produce a large octavo without any other trouble than 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 33 

quoting musty volumes; but I will only tell you, what I 
have myself observed. 

The colored population of the island is estimated now 
at over seven hundred thousand, in which number the 
free negros are included, amounting to an insignificant 
proportion. The free negros in the towns are journey- 
men laborers ; many are artisans, few have shops, and 
fewer still are proprietors of small bouses. It is not un- 
common for them to know how to read and even write, 
but they only commonly attain an imperfect knowledge 
of these important requisites. The great majority of ne- 
gros are addicted to vice; few evince a virtuous disposition. 
Very few amass even a moderate competence, as they 
commonly waste their earnings and first savings, and no 
considerable amount of money ever falls into their hands, 
unless they chance to inherit it, or draw a prize in the 
lottery. Their wants are few; and they consider them- 
selves happy if they can barely subsist, drink spirituous 
liquors, smoke and dance on Sundays. The native negros 
are far less economical than those brought from Africa, 
who are commonly very stingy, and who sometimes die 
from sheer want of nourishment by the side of their boti- 
jas full of money. Free negros and mulattos in the 
country are just the contrary of those of the same class in 
the towns. They are hard-working, honorable and honest; 
some take farms on lease, which they cultivate with care 
and judgment; their wives and children aid them; and 
though a wealthy negro is seldom seen in the country, yet 
many live in comparative comfort, despite the vexations 
they receive from the capitanes de partido (judges of the 
district), and cabos deronda (foremen of the night patrols), 
who plunder them to the utmost extent by pretexts and 
infamous exactions. 



LETTER VII. 

Rural Journeymen (guajiros) — Overseers (mayorales) — Sagacity of 
their dogs — Runaway negros — The famous negro named Notary 
Public (escribano) — Conflict between an overseer and a negro. 

The Guajiros, that I have already named, deserve a 
more extended description, as very little has been written 
as far as my knowledge goes, in comparison with what 
their condition merits. 

Journeymen are employed as overseers or administra- 
tors of plantations, sugar makers (maestros de azucarj, 
muleteers, or keepers of oxen in the sugar estates, pasture 
grounds, &c. They do not commonly know how to read, 
and seldom occupy the place of administrators. On many 
estates, however, they act as such, though the name o£ 
overseer is given to them. A steward is then necessary 
to keep accounts, and the correspondence with the owners. 
He is commonly a Spaniard, who understands something 
about reading and writing. The salary of an overseer 
varies from five hundred to one thousand dollars yearly ; 
which, like a spendthrift, he dissipates before it has been 
long in his possession. His capital consists of a negress 
for his wife, and a horse for riding over the plantation, 
which is sometimes of considerable extent. Not being 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 35 

particularly fastidious, he generally endeavors to increase 
his income, regardless of the means employed, conse- 
quently adopting the character of a 'smart man,' and taking 
advantage of the carelessness of the owner, to Schuylerize 
him. They also have a private understanding with the 
steward, who rarely "stands strong in honesty," and which 
is designated by them mancomunarse. 

These men superintend the works, and have control 
over all the negros of the plantations ; they are armed with 
a long (machete) sword or cutlass, and they also carry a 
heavy orange or other hard wood stick, which answers 
the purpose of a handle for the (cuero) whip. This is in 
fact a braiding of raw hide with which they flog the negros. 
They commonly ride on a horse or mule belonging to the 
owner, surveying the different places where the works 
are progressing. They also appoint a certain number of 
negros, who carry whips also, and do the business of con- 
tramayoral ; that is, preside over a gang of workmen in 
the absence of the overseer, and even when he is present, 
punishing whenever they think it proper without consult- 
ing with their superior on the propriety or impropriety of 
the act. 

Overseers do not commonly carry fire arms ; they are 
allowed to take with them one or more dogs taught to 
pursue runaway negros, and even to attack those who 
are present if they are encouraged. Many wonderful 
things are narrated relative to the scent and courage of 
these animals in defending their masters against the 
negros. I will relate two, which I believe may be relied 
upon; though, speaking plainly, I have no confidence in 
the words of the guajiros. 

A negro obtained by his tricks the nickname of Escri- 
bano (notary public). Persons of this business are in baa 
repute : a by-word here says, that they "enter hell head 



36 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

long with the velocity of a cannon ball." He used to spend 
the greater part of the year hidden in the woods, and 
came to the plantation when he was either caught or com- 
pelled to do so by hunger. Before doing this, he usually 
went to some neighboring farmer to apadrinar him; that 
is, to exert his influence on the overseer to avoid punish- 
ment. This is a recourse that slaves possess, and which 
no white person ever denies them. He was in the habit 
of making use of the most crafty tricks to frustrate the 
perseverance of the dogs ; and this, he almost always 
accomplished. The old overseer was removed and a new 
one appointed, who had an excellent dog called Guataca, 
and with which he went out in search of the runaway 
negro. He was induced, perhaps, to undertake the search 
by the circumstance of having seen some cinders in the 
interior of the woods, where undoubtedly he had been 
roasting bananas. The dog was taken to the spot, and 
after smelling for a short while, began to run through the 
bushes. After running for a long time, he stopped on the 
border of a brook, about twenty-four or twenty-five feet 
wide, the water being shallow, exhibiting great anxiety. 
The overseer who followed, soon reached the place, and 
began to set on the dog; but he barked, not daring to 
cross to the other side. He then saw in the middle of 
the brook a deep hollow, in which he imagined there 
might be an alligator. He suspected then that the negro 
had selected that place to cross the brook, hoping that this 
animal would catch and devour the dog when passing. 
He then tied Guataca with a string, and going farther up, 
on the border of the brook passed to the other side, and 
came down as far as he had gone up ; so as to stand just 
opposite the place where he was before. The animal 
looked for, and readily found the track again; and went 
on. The overseer was following behind, and had lost sight 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 37 

of the dog already, when he heard him growling; he then 
ran and found the animal biting and tearing the negro's 
clothes, who undoubtedly heard it coming and left his 
garments to occasion delay. The overseer took them from 
the dog and bade him to proceed; the animal searched as 
if unconscious, but lastly ran through the cane field. At 
one end of it was a kind of precipice, where he lost the 
track again; as when the man arrived, he saw him turn- 
ing round, with his nose almost touching the ground. Sud- 
denly he raised his head, and began to bark furiously. 
The negro was entirely naked on a tree. The overseer 
then tied the dog to prevent him biting, and told the negro 
to come down. He obeyed, and was taken to the house, 
after receiving several lashes. 

The other story was as follows : On a Sunday after- 
noon, the overseer met with one of the best negros of the 
plantation coming from a neighboring distillery with a 
botija under his arm, and asked him what it contained : 
the negro answered aguardiente (brandy), whereupon the 
overseer loosened the whip and administered a lash. The 
slave grasped it with his left hand, and, pulling vigorously, 
made the guajiro fall from his horse. He then left the 
botija, and rushing to the white man, took the sword from 
him. The latter was accompanied by two dogs, which 
attacked the aggressor, while his wife who was looking 
from the houses, loosened the chain with which Guataca 
was tied, and he reached the spot just when the negro 
was trying to dispatch the other two with the sword. 
The faithful dog jumped upon him with such violence, 
that he threw the negro on the ground, where he fainted, 
after receiving a heavy blow on the head. 



LETTER VIII. 

Villages of runaways ( Palenques ) — Rancherias — The hunting of 
runaway negros — Pepe Torres, the ranchador — His duel with a 
valiant mulatto. 

I think you would like to read the account of a ran- 
cheria which I witnessed. It is a regular hunt of those 
negros who run away from the plantations and assemble 
in the interior of woods, building very imperfectly a ran- 
clw (hut) which only serves to to keep off the rain Some- 
times several ranchos are seen together according to the 
number of runaways ; and when they secure places of diffi- 
cult access, they rapidly increase and form palenques, or 
villages, where they cultivate roots and bananas for their 
food, which together with the animals they catch with 
traps, or steal from neighboring plantations, afford them 
sufficient nourishment. There are permanent palenques 
in the mountains of El Cobre and El Cuzco, which the 
government has not been able to break up, notwithstand- 
ing their having been many years in existence, and troops 
having been repeatedly sent to dislodge them. 

Rancherias are regular palenques, though on a smaller 
scale, of from ten to twenty negroes. They live on the 
vegetables, pigs and poultry which they steal during the 
night; they are almost entirely naked; their arms are the 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 39 

-spades or cutlasses with which they work, and they carry 
commonly with them cliuzos, or long sticks of hard wood 
sharpened and scorched at the end, to render them still 
harder. They seldom make use of arrows, and more 
seldom yet secure the services of a gun. 

I was in a sugar plantation in the " Vuelta de Abajo," 
called "La Tumba, " and one evening the party of the 
famous ranchador "Pepe Torres," arrived. It comprised 
three men and five dogs. Their object was to make a 
descent on a rancheria, about three miles from the plan- 
tation, of from twelve to fifteen negroes, headed by a native 
chino (light-colored negro), who it was known had a 
sword, and had obtained the renown of guapo (courageous). 
The ranchadores carried swords, and a knife in its case, 
tied in a belt. 

I did not wish to lose this opportunity of witnessing a 
hunting party of this description, and though I took with 
me my sword and gun, I made up my mind not to take 
any active part, but remain neutral as long as possible. 
My companions agreed that I should accompany them on 
those terms, and we started an hour before sunrise (Ave 
Maria). The dogs were tied in pairs with a rope, both 
ends of which were in the hands of the ranchador, and 
passed through the rings of their collars, so that by loosen- 
ing one end only they were liberated. Pepe Torres had 
only one, which besides being tied, was muzzled. On 
entering the woods it was difficult to restrain the dogs ; 
they had already scented the runaways, and pulled the 
strings vigorously. 

I was behind the other ranchadores. Presently I 
observed two huts, in one of which a fire was brightly 
blazing: by its light I espied a naked negro with a coal 
in his hand in the act of lighting his pipe. His back was 
turned towards us. 



40 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

At this moment (the morning's dawn ), we heard the 
barking of a small dog, and four or five negros rushed 
suddenly from the huts, evidently alarmed. On seeing 
them, one of our dogs barked, and they shouted and began 
to run. Shortly afterwards, others issued from both huts, 
stumbling as if they had been sleeping, and commenced 
also flying in all directions. Our three men rushed to the 
huts, and the dogs which pulled most strenuously, increased 
their velocity. Pepe Torres, with sword in hand, entered 
the first hut ; the other two the second, and I slowly 
approached the door where the first named was, and saw 
two negros on their knees, and one lying on the ground, 
struggling with the dog, which in spite of the muzzle, bit 
him very often. Pepe Torres gave one of them a rope to 
tie the other in such a manner as to make the elbows come 
close together on the back; and this done, he tied himself 
with the other end of the rope, the arms of that one who 
had done the same to the first ; he then called the dog and 
bade him to go to a corner, kicking him at the same time; 
the animal growled and obeyed ; the third was also tied, 
and he helped the three to lay on the ground face down- 
wards. The two ranchadores ,who had found nobody in 
the other hut, followed the others. As Pepe was hurry- 
ing out of the second hut, I saw a chuzo passing about 
three inches from my eyes, and heard soon after the dog 
howling, as the instrument had scratched one of his legs, 
and blood was trickling from the wound. Pepe Torres 
commenced swearing, and said that he would revenge the 
wound of his dog, and taking him by the collar went in 
the direction marked by the chuzo so swiftly that I could 
hardly follow him. The dog readily found the track, 
and notwithstanding his lameness, we lost sight of him. 
We went on, and after a short interval, heard him bark- 
ing. Pepe ran, and also disappeared ; but I heard the 
dog's voice and it served me as a guide. 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 41 

The sun was already shining, and I had just emerged 
from the wood: a thick tow of cartas bravas (reeds) was 
before me ; I was about to pass through them, when I 
saw on the other side a pond, in the centre of which a 
mulatto was standing with the water rising to his waist, 
without any hat, but a handkerchief tied round the head, 
and a long sword in his hand. He had his back turned 
towards me, and on the opposite border Torres was stand- 
ing, so that I remained unperceived. The runaway defied 
the guajiro, making a proposal that he should tie the dog, 
and he would then meet him in single combat. He did 
it quickly and the other began to emerge from the pond. 
The resolute ranchador was waiting at the top of the 
height unconcerned, so that the other had to ascend in 
order to attack him. This he was doing most undaun- 
tedly, notwithstanding the disadvantage, when the dog, 
which had been jumping and barking, and which was 
not (perhaps purposely) well tied, got loose and rushed 
towards him, when only six or eight paces from Torres. 
On turning round to defend himself against the dog, 
Pepe jumped and struck him with the sword, which en- 
tering the right shoulder almost split the body in two, as 
the sword would have cut the left hip if it had descended 
with a little more force. I was touched at the treacher- 
ous murder of the courageous mulatto, and hid myself 
from the sight of the murderer. I, then, went back to 
the huts, where I found that the number of prisoners had 
increased by three, which the other ranchadores, whose 
names I do not recollect, had captured. Torres arrived 
shortly afterwards, bringing, as a trophy, the sword of 
his victim, and overflowing with joy at his exploit. He 
related the story in such a manner as to make me almost 
doubt the evidence of my own eyes; so highly colored 
was the sanguinary scene. They had been fighting over 



42 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

a quarter of an hour; he had been struck by the mulatto, 
two or three times with the back of the sword, and finally 
had split him in two. Neither the dog, which could 
claim an equal share of the triumph, nor I, who knew 
that all was false, denied his assertions. He, neverthe- 
less, ought to have known, by my countenance, that I had 
seen everything. He recalled to my mind that inimita- 
ble creation of Shakspeare, "Swaggering Jack FahtajJ'" 
who with 'hack'd sword,' maintained mortal combat with 
his foes, "full seven hours by Shrewsbury clock." 

Of the six runaways taken, only one belonged to the 
plantation "La Tumba:" the others were from neighbor- 
ing estates, where they were taken in order to collect 
four dollars captura (seizure) for each. I was requested 
to take to the plantation the one belonging to it ; I accept- 
ed, and intended to loosen the rope with which he was 
tied, but thought that he could escape. I was very much 
annoyed; but the evil was caused by my promise. 1 con- 
cluded, then, to be at least his padrino (protector), and 
obtained the relinquishment of flogging, but could not 
prevent his being shackled, in order to avoid a second 
escape. 



LETTER IX. 

Poverty of country people — Manner of dressing — Causes of poverty 
— The game of Monte, and cock-fighting — Idleness — Murder of 
Garro — Treachery and revenge — Death of Castaneda — Bad feel- 
ing against the Spanish government — Duels among guajiros — 
Quarrels — Highway robbers — No cruelty inflicted — Interesting 
stories of highway-men — Padron, Arencibia. 

A wealthy guajiro in Cuba is a wonder, as their 
expenses commonly exceed their incomes. They recall 
to memory the words of the old song, 

" How happy the soldier who lives on his pay, 
"And spends half-a-crown out of sixpence a day." 

They are not, however, extravagant at their tables or 
in their dress. They commonly wear a shirt and panta- 
loons of coarse striped linen, and sometimes, though rarely, 
drawers of Silesian linen, a straw hat and a pair of shoes, 
without any stockings, vest, cravat, or coat. They also 
make use of a large cloak of poor cloth for rainy weather, 
and for the ?iortes (cold season). If a bridle, a pair of 
silver spurs, a sword with silver handle, a pack saddle 
and a bladder for their segars, are added, we shall have a 
faithful picture of the magnificent dressing of a true 
guajiro. 
- They indulge, however, in other expenses which swal- 



44 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

low all their earnings, no matter how large they may be. 
Their wives and children, as well as themselves, generally 
smoke, and this item costs them commonly from fifty to 
seventy-five cents daily. The wife and children, unless 
they are full-grown boys, do not devote themselves to any 
useful purpose. They, at the utmost, sew their clothing, 
and take care of the poultry, so that there is only one 
producer and many consumers. 

Gambling (either the cock fight or the monte), is very 
general among them: they have also a decided propensity 
to the dolce far niente, and great horror of all kinds of 
exercise. I have wondered several times at the immobility 
of the overseer, whom I have seen during several succes- 
sive hours on the back of a mule, looking upon the negros 
working, without moving or doing any thing else than 
6moking segars, with their legs crossed over the pack 
saddle. If it happened that a neighbor passing by, began 
to talk to him, he need not fear being told that he is busy, 
as he will continue talking as long as possible, and this 
neighbor, who was going perhaps on an important errand, 
does not care about losing two hours in useless conversa- 
tion ; for, as it is said in one of their maxims, " What is 
not done to-day will be accomplished to-morrow." 

These men are not, however, entirely devoid of acti- 
vity, and, as a proof of it, I will relate the well known 
story of the murder of Garro, which, though it happened 
when Don Diego Navarro was governor, and is rather 
old, is nevertheless very interesting, and merits a recital. 

This Sciior Garro had a sugar plantation, seven or eight 
leagues from Havana (twenty-one or twenty-two miles). 
Some disagreement occurred between him and the over- 
seer, whom he slapped in the face. He overlooked the 
offence ; but did not forget it, and made up his mind to 
revenge himself. Some time elapsed, and one evening 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 45 

he went to. bed very early, contrary to his general custom, 
complaining of a severe headache to the other workmen. 
In order to cure it, he took a hot foot-bath, after which 
nobody dares in Cuba to go out of doors, there being 
great danger of getting pasmo (lockjaw). At nine or 
half past nine in the evening, he departed through a back 
door of his room, and saddling the horse, went to the 
woods of the plantation, where he had beforehand con- 
cealed another horse borrowed from a friend on some 
pretext. He took the saddle from his own and put it on 
this horse, leaving the other in the place of the one bor- 
rowed. This done, he rode to Havana, and stationing 
himself in a street in ambush, he saw Garro coming in his 
carriage from the theatre. As soon as it passed, he ap- 
proached it from behind, and plunged his sword into his 
shoulders, so dexterously, that the heart was severed. 
The murderer had covered his face with a handkerchief. 
The driver on hearing the screaming of the victim, turn- 
ed his face, and though he did not know him, affirmed 
that he was a guajiro. The circumstance of the slapping 
had not been forgotten, and suspicions naturally arose 
against the overseer. Shortly after sunrise, the judges of 
the inquest were in the plantation, as Senor Navarro 
evinced a strong desire of discovering the murderer. They 
found the overseer in his bed; every body declared that 
he had gone there sick, having before taken a foot-bath, 
and had not been out of the room since. His horse was 
examined, and as it had only been ridden from the house to 
the woods, and returned from there to the house, it did 
not show any marks of having made a long journey. The 
calmness and great dissimulation with which he made his 
affidavit, removed so effectually every suspicion, that he 
was not even imprisoned. These details have come to light, 
because he related them himself, shortly before dying. 



4G LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

These base and murderous retaliations are very com- 
mon; cold-blooded assassinations are not of rare occurrence, 
even when the victim is not known to the murderer, who 
is commonly influenced by money. Do not entertain the 
opinion that I refer to the death of Castafieda, though he 
was killed by a guajiro. It is a well known fact that 
this deed had a political object, without any other motive 
on the part of the perpetrator than a violent impulse of 
pure, disinterested patriotism. I have seen him here, 
and you may have done the same, as he has been twice 
in New York. I have conversed with him, and he has 
related the facts as they happenend, both to me and to 
others. But it is remarkably strange that the govern- 
ment does not know who he is, notwithstanding the great 
number of persons who are in possession of the secret, 
and although many others, who belong to the Spanish 
party, would give a large reward for his apprehension. 
This strinklingly evinces the sympathy entertained to- 
wards General Lopez, and the universal hatred against 
the infamous traitor who delivered him to the oppressors 
of that Cuba, for which he died an unflinching martyr. 

I would not charge the guajiros with a lack of perso- 
nal courage, for they have shown on several occasions 
proofs of real valor. Their behavior in duels among them- 
selves, however, does not afford strong proofs of heroism. 
Their aim is to win, regardless of the means employed, 
which are not always gentlemanly. Very often, the first 
who arrives on the spot, conceals himself to wait for his 
adversary, who is shot or struck with a sword without 
knowing whence the blow came. 

Their sudden quarrels partake also of the character of 
treachery. With the same hand and movement with which 
they slap their adversaries in the face to provoke them, 
they unsheathe their cutlasses; and on drawing the^ blade. 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 47 

strike and cut their enemies with it, who very often have 
had no time to recover from their surprise. If their oppo- 
nent is smart and light, he jumps backwards and draws 
his sword, avoiding at the same time the blow. The other, 
in most cases, does not come to close quarters, and the 
quarrel ends by their being separated through the exer- 
tions of the spectators. 

The sad consequences arising from vice, and chiefly 
from that of gambling, are felt in Cuba as in other countries. 
Highway robbers are abundant, but I never heard of any 
of these desperadoes having capped the climax of their 
enormities by excessive cruelty or downright murder, 
which so frequently occur in Spain. Their object is to 
rob, and though it is true that they kill when any opposi- 
tion is exercised, they do not, however, employ such 
means when the victim yields readily to their demands, 
nor do they invent tortures, as the party called Jitana, 
did, some years ago in Estremadura. 

I have seen one of these robbers, and I do not mention 
even his initials, on account of his great notoriety. He 
is a wealthy proprietor, but gambling and other vices 
have induced him to continue the dangerous pursuits of 
a highwayman. He has three or four companions in ini- 
quity, who assist him in his depredations : he has been 
tried by the Military Commission, and has obtained by 
aid of his money, a mild punishment, which, though it has 
deprived him of a large part of his property, has given 
him a stronger inclination to rob: at least his life was 
saved by the disinterested clemency of his judges. One 
of the charges made against him in the prosecution was 
founded on a large quantity of human bones having been 
discovered in a dry well of his plantation. 

One of the most famous highwaymen, named Miguel 
Padroii, was killed., some years, ago, by the police force 



48 LETTERS FROM CfJBA. 

under the command of Captain Armona, and taken in 
triumph to Havana, which he entered in broad daylight, 
tied across a mule. Over twenty men, armed with car- 
bines, surrounded after dark the isolated poultry house, 
where he was sleeping alone with two loaded trabucos 
(blunderbusses). He was not aware of his situation until 
shortly before sunrise, as the municipal guard feared to 
enter, or even approach the shed. In order to make his 
flight more easy in the darkness which still prevailed, he 
opened the door: those who were just opposite to him 
fled, affording him a good opportunity to escape. He 
then fired one of the blunderbusses at them, and throwing 
it on the ground, began to run at great speed with the 
other in his hand; but a well-directed ball, out of many 
shots, finished his bold career. Padron's audacity had 
become so great, that even within six or nine miles of 
Havana, he inspired terror by his desperate exploits. He 
confined himself to this distance from the capital, unde- 
terred by the imminent danger to which he was constantly 
exposed. He had no accomplices, and it is said that he 
several times put to flight the patrols of the judge of the 
district by whom he was persecuted. 

These robbers are sometimes protected by the aforesaid 
officers, and this is the only clue that can be found to 
the fact of their eluding for so many years the prosecu- 
tion of the government. Farmers or planters are not 
commonly assaulted in their estates by these men, as they 
avoid having any money in their possession, and as, on the 
other hand, they are not allowed to keep fire-arms with- 
out paying eight dollars yearly for each to the govern- 
ment, we may safely say that they are at the mercy of 
these bandits. 

The most shocking assault committed in late years, 
was perpetrated in the estate of one Areneibia, by a party 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 49 

under the command of Emeterio Morejon, who being an 
old offender, rather wealthy, and a near relation of several 
pretty rich families of Matanzas, robbed and murdered him 
in the most cruel and infamous manner. This affair yielded 
a handsome income to the Spanish judges engaged in the 
prosecution, because many persons in comfortable circums- 
tances having been impeached as accomplices of More- 
jon, were like him committed to prison. Every indivi- 
dual had to pay a large amount, in order to escape the 
hardships of a protracted detention in the jail, though 
some of them were free from nil participation in the 
crime. 



LETTER X. 

Love of the guajiros — Their wives — Superstition — Lights — 
Anecdotes — Irreligion — Its causes — Opinions relative to 
Spanish affairs not less enoneous than those of the Spaniards as 
to Cuban matters — Sugar makers — Their assistants — Their 
moral capacity and social condition. 

The bachelor guajiro falls in love while very young, 
but does not commonly marry until twenty-eight or thirty 
vears of age. His Platonic amours are long cherished, 
even to the extent of six or eight years. With wonder- 
ful patience lie witnesses the appearance and disappear- 
ance of the Queen of Night, until the honeymoon shall 
bring the fruition of his hopes. In the mean time, he 
bestows his complaisances, after his fashion, on the fair 
one he may have selected. On account of the slenderness 
of their means, these civilities consist of presents of small 
value, but their devotedness is exemplified by personal 
sacrifices, as for instance, travelling weary miles, passing 
through bad roads, enduring rains, showing great agility 
or courage, singing decimas (Spanish stanzas), which they 
know by heart, dancing the zapateo, &c. His lady-love 
considers these attentions as a sufficient title to her affections, 
and rewards his behavior by forbearing to go to balls or 
any other amusements, which he does not countenance- 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 51 

she is therefore consecuente (that is, acts with consistency). 
Coquetry is' exceedingly rare among them. When the 
marriage takes place, one of the first presents made by 
the bridegroom is a negress, to work for his helpmate ; 
but as the cares of the family increase very rapidly, they 
become too great for the physical ability and slowness of 
the slave. Hence, the unmarried young women pass, 
generally, from a retired and quiet life into one that is 
toilsome and painful. It is easy to imagine that I refer 
to the journeymen guajiros ; as those who are wealthy act 
as they do in other places, in accordance with their means 
and liberality. 

From what I have narrated, it is but natural that you 
should consider these people as superstitious. They are not 
so, however, and as far as this is concerned, they have a 
great advantage over the country people in Spain, a fact 
which is acknowledged even by the Spaniards themselves. 
A phenomenon, however, frightens them dreadfully, viz: 
" jack-a lanterns'''' which they think are souls of different 
persons, who by their misdeeds, are condemned to suffer 
forever. The most courageous guajiro will not dare to 
pass at night near a place where they appear. Sometimes, 
in order to frighten those who boast of being very bold, 
they introduce a lighted candle inside a guiro, or dry 
hollow pumpkin full of holes, and place it on a road 
which they know they must cross, concealing themselves 
in the vicinity in order to enjoy the amusement caused by 
the trepidation of the spirit-haunted. A planter informed, 
me, that travelling once on horseback, preceded by a 
negro with a cuaba or large lighted torch in his hand, he 
met a guajiro who was approaching in an opposite direction 
and on seeing the light, was suddenly seized with terror, 
and uttering terrific cries, turned his horse round, and ran 
at full speed, commending himself to the Virgin and all 
the protecting saints. 



52 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

The country people of Cuba, as well as the other inha- 
bitants, are not very religious. Most of them learn a few 
prayers by heart, which they repeat without perhaps 
fully understanding their import. This does not prevent, 
however, images of the Virgin and of Saints being in 
every house. They do not generally confess very often. 
Many fail to do it, even once in the year, as the Catholic 
Church requires ; and many delay it until they are sick 
and on the approach of death. In regard to mass, some 
attend to it punctually, but those who live in the open 
country very seldom go to church, even on the days 
ordered by the rules established by their creed. 

The information I have been able to gather, shows that 
more attention was formerly paid to religion than now ; 
the "Constitutional system," which ruled from the year 
1820 until '23, it is said, caused a revolution in religious 
ideas. The rural population listened with interest to "Vol- 
taire's Works, " " Volney's Ruins, " " The Citer, " and 
other irreligious works, which produced great evils, con- 
verting into atheists, or at least into deists, numbers of 
heedless and ignorant guajiros, who on renouncing all 
religion, imagined they would obtain unlimited freedom 
to give vent to their passions and vices. 

Though they are descendants from Spaniards, and live 
under their laws, the habits of the Cuban guajiros are 
]uite different. Their attachment to the mother country 
« very slight, and they entertain mistaken ideas even 
pf the most common and noteworthy peculiarities of the 
Peninsula. They believe, for instance, that the Catalans, 
Grallicians and Biscay ens, belong to another nation, and 
consider as Spaniards those only who like them speak 
Castilian. The ignorance of the inhabitants of Spain, in 
regard to Cuban matters (even to its geographical and 
topographical situation), is not less striking. Many exceed- 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 53 

ingly ludicrous errors of the government at Madrid 
are cited; and I will refer, for your edification, to a few 
royal commands : 

1st. Ordeiing the establishment of a squadron of 
mounted horsemen, in the sound of Campeche, to prevent 
an invasion of the island. 

2d. Ordering a company of troops coming from Spain, 
to disembark in the port of Guanabacoa ( which is an in- 
land town), to avoid the attacks of the yellow fever. 

3d. Ordering the establishment of a guard in Factoria 
(large building for the manufacture of segars) to prevent 
the attacks of the comejen (an insect which crumbles the 
wood to powder). Such a display of royal ignorance is 
almost incredible ; I know you will not readily give cre- 
dence to these absurdities, but so many respectable persons 
have related them to me, and vouched for their authenti- 
city, that it precludes the possibility of falsehood. I see 
and experience every day other instances of this ignorance, 
though on a smaller scale. 

The guajiros who intend to confine themselves to the 
manufacture of sugar, learn the mere routine only, and 
practice what they have seen their masters perform, with- 
out studying the theory of the proceedings. Being devoid 
of any knowledge of reading and writing, and without 
the slightest notion of physics or chemistry, these men 
begin by engaging themselves as segundos (assistants 
to the master) with a small salary; and, after being 
two or three years in the business, they readily find 
situations as masters, without any other proof of their 
ability or competency, than the circumstance of having 
served their apprenticeship. They do not sometimes, how- 
ever, practice any operation, or even order it to be prac- 
tised, but commonly devote themselves to the care of the 
negros during the absence, or repose of their superiors. 



64 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

Though many planters visit their estates when the 
grinding commences, yet, few are able to judge of the 
quality of the fruit manufactured, before it is purged : and, 
as a month commonly elapses before this and the opera- 
tions which precede it, are gone through, it happens that 
one-sixth of the whole crop is made before they can 
ascertain whether the master ha acertado (has hit), or se 
ha perdido (has missed.) The only remedy that can be 
applied, then, is botar (to discharge) the master. The 
value of the sugar lost is not refunded to the owner, as 
there are always some motives to allege (as is the case 
with the unskilful physician, who kills his patient), and 
besides no remuneration can be expected from the insolvent 

I am afraid of prolixity in my description of the Cuban 
guajiros. It is necessary, however, that I should speak 
to you of the carreteros and arrieros, as my picture would 
be very incomplete without them. But as I must say 
something respecting roads, and the carts most commonly 
used, T will delay these matters for the next letter. 



LETTER XI. 

Effects of Railroads — Common roads — Travelling volantes and qui- 
trines — Carts — Carmen (carreteros) — Their lives and hard- 
ships — Muleteers ( arrieros ) — Physical strength — Effects of 
climate. 

The number of persons devoted to the business of 
carmen and muleteers was quite considerable until some 
years ago. Since the establishment of railroads it has 
decreased considerably, so that the first effect of these 
useful improvements was the ruin of many families. 

I believe that there are not over six artificial roads of 
any extent in all the island ; and most of them commence 
in the city of Havana, the longest not extending over 
forty miles. They were constructed after the introduc- 
tion of railroads, and tolls are collected on them at certain 
distances. These roads, however, form an exception to 
the general rule, which is : "There are no other roads ir. 
Cuba, than those formed by the natural ground." In 
drought, no other inconvenience is experienced than that 
arising from the inequalities of the ground, which, on 
account of having never been levelled, form too steep 
slopes. The soil is commonly hard enough to support, 
without much wear, the weight of the cars j but as soon 
as the rainy season sets in, the violence with which 



5G LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

the water falls, the uninterrupted successionof showers, the 
deep ruts made by the wheels, as well as the want of good 
drainage, convert the roads into large pools, whose bottoms 
abound with deep holes, which cannot be seen or avoided, 
on account of the stagnant water with which they are 
covered. Travelling in quitrin or volante is then diffi- 
cult, and in many places entirely impossible ; even to ride 
on horseback a few leagues, without falling several times, 
is considered a wonder. 

All these difficulties are increased by one of greater 
consequence, the want of bridges. Nearly all the rivers 
have to be waded ; and when they are subject to freshets, 
or when rains have been abundant, they swell so much 
that they assume the impetuosity of torrents. It is then 
necessary, either to cross them by swimming, or to wait on 
their margins some hours. The bridges of Mordazo 
(recently built), Marianao, Calabazar, &c, are costly works, 
but executed without taste or the knowledge of the new 
discoveries which have been made, and applied to the 
science. 

When the roads are bad, travelling quitrines are drawn 
by three horses or mules abreast. It sometimes, however, 
happens, that the wheels fall into such deep ruts, as to be 
covered up to the height of the naves, and then the 
utmost strength of the animals is not sufficient to extricate 
the carriage. Help is then solicited, and gladly and 
cheerfully tendered by the neighboring farmers, who, 
without requiring, or even accepting any compensation 
for their valuable services, bring promptly a team of oxen 
to assist the horses. 

The scarcity of good roads is perhaps owing to the 
clumsy construction of the carts ( carretas ) . They are 
huge wooden frames, which, when empty, three men 
could scarcely move. The great strength given to them 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 57 

may possibly bo necessary, to withstand the shocks and 
concussions to which they are continually liable. Their 
own weight, however, prevents their easy motion, forms 
deep ruts into which the wheels fail, and constitutes one 
of the most powerful causes of the destruction of roads. 
I am inclined to think that these cumbersome carts can- 
not be under one ton, and as the regular load carried by 
them is eight boxes of sugar, or about four thousand 
pounds, they require on a dry and level road three teams 
of oxen. But when they fall into the pools formed on 
them during the rainy season, six and sometimes eight 
teams are not sufficient. 

The life of carmen is one of great hardship. They 
are generally exposed to the weather, and their salaries 
are very small. Covered up to the knees with mud, dur- 
ing the rains, and suffering the rigors of a tropical sun, 
they have less relaxation than the oxen they drive. They 
suspend a hammock beneath their carts, and there they 
lie, ten inches above the water, their faces covered with 
the hat, as a protection against mosquitos, and without 
taking off their clothes during several days, nor drinking 
any other warm beverage than pure coffee. Roads are 
sometimes impassable, and carmen have to stop two or 
three days at some tavern; and it is not uncommon to 
spend three weeks in a round journey of sixty miles. 

From the necessity of mutual help at every moment, 
no long distances are ever undertaken with a single cart. 
Three or four commonly belonging to the same owner, 
are made to go together, and when any one of them falls 
into a deep rut, the teams of the others are employed for 
its extrication. It is painful to witness this performance; 
the shouts, blasphemies, and despair of the carmen ; their 
great and very often, unsuccessful efforts ; and the suffer- 
ings of the poor animals, which are often cruelly treated 



58 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

are scenes which make us turn the eye from such revolt- 
ing barbarity. 

Muleteers farrierosj, are, perhaps, less unhappy than 
carmen, but the difference cannot be great. Their salaries 
are also scanty, and though they are not so often exposed 
to the weather, sleep more frequently in their own beds, 
and eat warm meals ; they are, however, subject to hard- 
ships unknown to the other class. When a mule for 
instance falls into a hole, they have to employ all their 
strength for its withdrawal. They are also sometimes 
kicked and bitten by these animals, and they have, in order 
to load them, to lift from thirty to sixty bags, weighing 
one hundred and eight pounds each, to the height of their 
loins, unaided and without stopping, and tie them tightly 
afterwards, &c, &c. 

It is quite natural to think, after the description I have 
given of the guajiros, that they mast be stout and strongly 
built in order to stand a lifo so full of hardships; and they 
are really so. Many proofs of extraordinary exertions 
have been afforded by them, and I have seen some who 
may be well classed among the Samsons of other countries. 
Athletic frames are not very rare, and I, therefore, infer 
that the doctrine of hot climates producing a lack of 
energy and vigor, is far from truth. It is true that tall 
statures are not so commonly met with here, as in the 
United States, and that sanguineous constitutions are not 
so abundant as bilious and lymphatic. Experience, how- 
ever, teaches us that these o.utward appearances are not 
always accompanied with vigor and strength. Among 
our countrymen, on the other hand, feeble and weak per- 
sons are not uncommon, though this is very often the 
effect of habits that are any thing but temperate. Observ- 
ing foreigners have remarked that the old age of North 
Americans is precocious t 



59 



LETTER XII, 

Spanish Population — Drawbacks to Emigration — How Spanish 
Emigrants build their fortunes — Sketches of Count Lombillo 
and others — Revengeful act on Don Joaquin Gomez — Why 
Spaniards do not return to their country — Anecdote of a native 
of Lima — Innkeepers in the country — Advantages of Spaniards 
over natives — Lawyers — Physicians. 

The number of Spaniards or Peninsulares (as they are 
called here), living on the Island, is estimated at from fifty 
to seventy thousand, without including the army or navy, 
of which I will speak hereafter. 

The fear of the yellow-fever, the expense of transpor- 
tation, and the uncertainty of readily finding situations, 
restrain the yearly emigration from being large, notwith- 
standing the probabilities of making large fortunes. Emi- 
grants are commonly invited by their relatives, who are 
already established in Cuba ; the appearance and manners 
of many, soon after landing, are such as would give an 
exceedingly poor idea of the civilization of the mother 
country ; they are then called by the negros blancos sucios 
(dirty whites). The inferiority of the poor classes of 
Spain, and more especially of Galicia, when compared 
with those of Cuba, is a fact indirectly acknowledged by 
the Spaniards themselves. The following request is very 



60 LETTKRS FROM CUBA. 

often made: — "Sir: Please take my cousin for doorman ; 
he is green yet, as he has been but a short time here; but 
he will soon be useful to you." They are also accustomed 
to own their incapability, so that they readily consent to 
enter into engagements to work several months, and even 
for a year, without receiving more compensation than their 
board. Thus you see that even Havana is not without 
"green" people. Though cart loads of Irishmen, Germans 
or Dutchmen, are not seen here, by the side of others of 
sheep or calves, the appearance of emigrants :s very much 
like those of New York. They wonder at every thing 
they see, and they are frightful images of nakedness, un- 
cleanliness and hunger. These people, however, shortly 
after landing, consider themselves as masters of the 
country. 

Spaniards coming to the Island, whether officers of the 
government or not, keep steadily in view the prospect of 
making a fortune. It is said here that they leave in the 
"old country" all party ideas or political opinions, and 
unite themselves in Cuba to acquire riches. They also 
forsake that idleness, which is one of the characteristics 
of their nation, and become here very industrious, and 
economical'. 

Those not employed by the government, devote them- 
selves to the pursuit of trade, but having no capital, they, 
in order to obtain it, engage as salesmen in the stores. 
During many years, they conduct themselves as faithful 
servants of the owner; they avoid all kinds of expense, 
though they may stand in need of the most indispensable 
requisite. When they have amassed some capital, they 
are allowed to have a share in the shop, and undertake seve- 
ral speculations, the slave trade being the most commonly 
resorted to, by which enormous profits are obtained; after 
a short time, or simultaneously, they become refaccionis- 



LETTERS FROM CLBA. Gl 

tas (those who make advances of goods on the crops of 
plantations), in which business, without capital, they 
charge interest, which swells to large amounts, so that in 
a few years they find themselves owners of the estates 
which they have been supplying; they endeavour, mean- 
while to marry a rich lady, and finally purchase a title, 
or a cross of distinction. 

I will refer to a few persons, each of whom represents 
a large class, in order that it might not be thought that 
I have taken the exception for the general rule, as is 
usually done. I do not fear, therefore, to be contradicted, 
at least with justice, as the facts are notorious. I have 
been very particular in obtaining every kind of informa- 
tion from the best sources, and no other is transmitted to 
you than what deserves full credit. 

Count Lombillo was accustomed to say publicly, that he 
passed a long illness lying on a heap of pieces of sheeting; 
that he did not wish to indulge in the luxury of a bed, 
until he had accumulated twenty thousand dollars capi- 
tal ; and that his wife had, when he married her, one 
hundred thousand dollars. The liquidation of his busi- 
ness showed that the slave trade had yielded him nine 
hundred thousand dollars nett. 

Santiago de la Cuesta Manzanal made a much more 
rapid fortune, though he is charged with not having been 
very upright; he was not satisfied with the title of Con- 
de de la Reunion, and purchased a great cross, in order 
to have the compellation of Escelencia. He married the 
daughter of a man, who died very rich, and who was at 
the commencement of his life a pedler, or retailer of 
needles and other trifles. Cuesta, in spite of numerous 
law-suits, by which deposits, amounting to a large sum, 
were being claimed from him, died in the midst of plenty, 
and also, it is said, in agonizing remorse. 



62 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

Don Joaquin Gomez has not wished for titles, being 
satisfied with the distinction of Escelencia. He arrived 
at Havana, when about the age of thirteen or fourteen 
years, almost naked. A merchant named Nis, who was 
very successful, sheltered him under his roof, and gave 
him assistance. He soon embarked in the slave traffic ; 
enjoys a high repute for honesty, and it is affirmed that, 
out of the two millions capital he possesses, over one has 
been acquired in that trade. Some years ago he became 
blind, and has been suffering great pains on account of a 
bottle of sulphuric acid having been poured on his head 
by a man named Verdaguer, while he was praying at 
Church. The cause of the deed was as follows : Ver- 
daguer sent twelve thousand dollars, which constituted 
his whole capital to Buenos Ayres, and ordered them to 
be invested in jerked beef, giving some shares in the spe- 
culation to several Catalonians, who denied afterwards 
his having any interest or claim on the cargo. A law-suit 
was at once instituted, and they requested Gomez to 
exercise his influence on the judges in their favor ; this 
he did, without inquiring, it is said, who was right, and 
obtained a favorable decision for his countrymen. When 
Verdaguer ascertained the manner in which he lost this 
suit, involving his whole fortune, he burst into an ungover- 
nable rage, and harbored a resentment, which increased 
with age, and ended at last in leading him to the perpe- 
tration of that deed, which was aggravated by his commit- 
ting suicide with a few drops of prussic acid, causing 
instant death. 

The present Marquis Esteva commenced his career in 
the capacity of a doorkeeper, which is considered in Ha- 
vana as the most humble occupation. He succeeded in 
marrying the daughter of a wealthy Portuguese, notwith- 
standing the efforts made by her father for its prevention. 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 63 

He was not satisfied with a title and a great cross, but 
aspired also to an office in the army, and obtained the com- 
mission of colonel, which a son-in-law purchased for him 
at Madrid. These instances are, I believe, sufficient to 
sustain my assertion. Probably you will argue, How 
can it be, that these men, after having gratified their am- 
bition, fail to return to Spain on the acquisition of abun- 
dant wealth ? I will presently offer an explanation. 
Some have undertaken the voyage, but re-embarked 
shortly afterwards, to rid themselves of the pressing 
importunities of a host of poor relations. For Spaniards 
indulge in "golden dreams" of the inexhaustible riches of 
"The Indies, "and are not satisfied with a liberal present 
from those who have returned from their imagined "El 
Dorado," but think they are entitled to nearly an equal 
share, regarding the riches of their transatlantic posses- 
sions as the "common stock" of their nation. You will, 
perhaps, consider this an exaggeration, but I believe it is 
true; and, as a proof, I shall recite the story of a native of 
Lima, Peru, who landed at Cadiz in 1814. 

On disembarking, he was accosted by the army of beg- 
gars which swarms all over Spain. So great was the 
number of wretched objects, that for a while the stranger 
entertained the opinion that the whole nation was com- 
posed of mendicants. The ordinary amount of alms in 
the Peninsula is one ochavo, which is a copper coin of the 
value of two maravedis, so that one dollar wi 1 give relief 
to a battalion of three hundred and forty beggars. If we 
take into consideration the great number of solicitors, the 
amount given to each, no matter how numerous the con- 
tributors, should necessarily be very small. The joy and 
amazement of the beggars was greatly excited on observ- 
ing that the hero, who had never seen copper coins, began 
to distribute sixpence to each. The news spread rapidly 



64 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

throughout the ward, and from all places and even the 
most distant corners, flocks of ragged beggars rushed in 
all directions towards the traveller, who formed a common 
centre, shouting: "To the Indiano . . ! To the Indiano!" 
(a name applied by them to all persons coming from the 
New World ). Their appearance was similar to that 
presented by flocks of chickens when running to a person 
about to scatter grain for their use. The sixpences being 
exhausted, the South American commenced distributing 
shillings, and these also being finished, he gave a quarter 
to one of the beggars. Their admiration and joy rose to 
the highest pitch, and the one who received the twenty- 
five cent piece acknowledged his delight and thankfulness 
in the most expressive language and attitudes. On seeing 
this, another mendicant asked him with the most ridicu- 
lous seriousness : " Why do you thank him in such a 
manner 1 Whatever he may have given to you does it 
not belong to our Indies ?" It is useless to say that the 
traveller was not encouraged in the farther distribution 
of coins to such a haughty, yet poverty-stricken multitude. 

One of the causes why Spaniards do not return to their 
country, after being some time in Cuba, was explained to 
me by a Castilian : "If I go back to my native town, "said 
he, "they would call me tio (uncle) Manuel, but here I 
am addressed as Senor Don Manuel." If any thing in 
the world tends to enhance the self importance and self- 
conceit which is cherished by the natives of Old Spain it 
is that of a high-sounding title. 

Spaniards, who after their arrival in Havana go into 
the country, commonly engage themselves as clerks in 
the shops that are met with on the roads at certain dis- 
tances, and which are called tabernas (taverns). They 
prefer the work of the counter to all others, and I have 
not seen during the time I have been in the Island, a single 



LETTERS FROM CLBA. 65 

Spaniard cultivating the soil. This is rather strange, 
when the dignified character of the Spanish people is taken 
into consideration; because the business of innkeeper 
requires great patience and forbearance, as they have to 
suffer the most degrading humiliations, even from the 
negroes. Unbelieving Creoles explain this phenomenon 
by saying that their arrogance is fictitious. One of them 
said to me : "Spaniards are haughty towards the humble, 
and humble towards the haughty ; courageous with 
the cowards, and cowards with the courageous." I am 
convinced that there is much truth in this portraiture of 
the Spanish character; but I also know that the grandees 
of the Peninsula will pronounce it a libel, and at the same 
time call me mentiroso (a liar). 

The large profits realized by the country shop-keepers, 
induce them to lead the isolated life of persons engaged 
in that trade. In order to avoid being robbed and strip- 
ped by highwaymen, they stipulate to pay them a certain 
sum per week or month figuala); and commonly act as 
their spies, or at least, as their harborers. They have- 
also, an understanding with the judges and governors of 
the rural districts, to avoid the penalties which they 
would incur by their frequent violation of the Police 
regulations. As these innkeepers obtain, for a very low 
price, the goods which the negroes steal from the planta- 
tions, they become wealthy in a few years, and boast 
afterwards of having made their fortunes in an honorable 
and honest business. A son of my recomendado, whom 
X, call Filibuster, assured me, some days ago, that all 
persons purchasing goods, either by weight or by running 
measure, are sure to be robbed, or at least cheated, in the 
manner of balancing the account. I observed that this 
must be an exaggerated statement, and he then requested 
me to put its truth to the test. Accordingly, I bought a 



66 LETTERS FROM CUB4. 

small keg of lard ; and was soon satisfied of the veracity 
of his assertions. I discovered mistakes (to my disadvan- 
tage of course) first in the weight, next in the amount of 
tare to be deducted, and lastly in the arithmetical calcu- 
lations. 

Spaniards in Cuba possess many advantages over the 
Creoles for becoming wealthy. The government affords 
them a decided protection, though it feigns a great impar- 
tiality. Besides the offices, which are wholly monopo- 
lized by them, many highly profitable contracts with the 
exchequer, and "fat jobs" in general, are awarded to 
them on the most advantageous terms. 

It is, however, worth noticing, that but few Spaniards 
employ their countrymen for lawyers or physicians, and 
that they prefer Creoles. Persons emigrating from Spain 
if they are of the legal profession, solicit judicial offices, 
and if they are physicians request the judges to appoint 
them to commissions, to enable them to gain a respectable 
position. So great is the public mistrust about the capa- 
city of these adventures. 



LETTEK XIII. 

Army — Character of the Spanish troops — Digressions on Spanish 
historians — Famous exploits of the children of Pelayo in Somo- 
sierra — Their bravery against an unarmed General — The 
Spanish navy — The heroic steamer Pizarro — How Spain 
treats its soldiers and mariners. 

The mysterious secrecy observed by the Spanish 
government, renders it impossible to ascertain the exact 
amount of efficient troops that now garrison the Island. 
They make it swell to thirty thousand men, but we know 
by experience that their statistics are not to be relied 
upon. According to the statement of a certain officer, a 
large amount — one half or two thirds, perhaps — must be 
deducted from that number, in order to attain any thing 
like certainty. The battalions, and even companies men- 
tioned by the government, undoubtedly exist, but the 
number of their men is perhaps only one half of that which 
is stated. 

It cannot be denied that the soldiers are well dressed ; 
that they manoeuvre tolerably well in a sham-fight ; and 
that if they were equally imposing in the face of an enemy, 
the poor opinion which Napoleon entertained of the 
Spanish troops, would no longer be held. This is, how- 
ever, the opinion of all judges, not Spaniards, who have 



68 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

tried them. They say, however, that foreigners speak 
disparagingly of them from envy or jealousy. You may 
remember that the correspondent here of a New York 
paper said some days ago: "Had the Spaniards gone to the 
Crimea in place of the Allies, the siege of Sebastopol 
would have lasted a few minutes only, and the dispatch 
of their General in chief would have contained the three 
famous words of Caesar : " Veni, vidi, vici." 

As I have spoken already in favor of my heroes, it is 
fair that I should refer to one of their glorious feats, to 
prove the correctness of my assertions. Though I quote 
it from an English author, who was fighting for Spain, 
his statements cannot be contradicted, as nobody can 
accuse the celebrated Napier of having written falsehoods. 
On the contrary, he has had the boldness to narrate facts 
as they really happened, and did not, therefore, follow 
the rules observed by Spanish historians. As far as I 
know, these rules have never been published, and conse- 
quently it is not strange that an Englishman did not know 
ihem. This is less remarkable still when we consider 
that only after many exertions on my part, have I been 
able to discover them. These rules may be comprised in 
one, and that is very simple, viz : "Not to relate any fact 
or event, no matter how truthful and important, if it con- 
tributes to depreciate, in any way, the character of high, 
unrivalled, and matchless Castille." In compliance with 
this principle, Solis says in his "History of the settle- 
ment and conquest of North America," that "he overlooks 
some facts attributed to Hernan Cortes, because they do 
not contribute to exalt his character." The Historian 
Mariano Torrente, who, wishing to flatter his country- 
men, wrote three large volumes of the most barefaced 
falsehoods that could be invented, on the wars of the 
Spaniards against their American descendants, was 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 69 

\ oliged to publish many pages vindicating himself from 
the charge made against him, by the press of Madrid, of 
being insurrectionary, because two or three truths elevat- 
ing the character of the revolutionists, escaped through 
the net of his frauds. What will they think about Mr. 
Napier ? Here is the quotation : 

[ From Napier's History of the Peninsular War, volume 1. page 216. ] 

" The 30th, the French advanced guard reached the 
foot of the Somosierra, where General St. Juan, whose 
force now amounted to ten or twelve thousand men, was 
judiciously posted. Sixteen pieces of artillery, were 
planted in the neck of the pass * * * At daybreak, three 
French battalions attacked St. Juan's right, three more 
assailed his left, and as many marched along the cause- 
way in the centre, supported by six guns. The French 
wings, spreading over the mountain side, commenced a 
warm skirmishing fire, which was as warmly returned, 
while the frowning battery at the top of the causeway 
was held in readiness to crush the central column, when 
it should come within range. At that moment Napoleon 
rode into the mouth of the pass, and attentively examined 
the scene before him ; the infantry were making no pro- 
gress, and a thick fog mixed with smoke hung upon the 
ascent ; suddenly, as if by inspiration, he ordered the 
Polish cavalry of his guard to charge up the causeway, 
and size the Spanish battery. In an instant the foremost 
ranks of the first squadron were levelled with the earth 
by the fire of the great battery, and the remainder were 
thrown into confusion ; but General Krazinski as sud- 
denly rallied them, and covered by the smoke and the 
morning vapour led them sword in hand up to the 
mountain. As these gallant horsemen passed, the Spanish 
infantry on each side fired and fled towards the summit 



70 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

of the causeway, and when the Poles, cutting down the 
gunners, took the battery, the whole army was in flight, 
abandoning arms, ammunitions, and baggage. 

11 This surprising exploit, in the glory it conferred upon 
one party, and the disgrace it heaped upon the other, can 
hardly be paralleled in the annals of war. It is indeed 
almost incredible, even to those who are acquainted with 
Spanish armies, that a position, in itself nearly impreg- 
nable, and defended by twelve thousand men, should, 
without any panic, but merely from a deliberate sense of 
danger, be abandoned, at the wild charge of a few squa- 
drons, which two companies of good infantry would 
have effectually stopped : yet some of the Spanish regi- 
ments so shamefully beaten here, had been victorious at 
Baylen a few months before I * * * The charge * * * 
was the result of Napoleon's sagacious estimate of the 
real value of Spanish troops * * * The two G-enerals, St. 
Juan and Heredia, united some of the fugitives from So- 
mosierra, on the Madrid side of the mountains, and were 
about to enter that capital, when the appearance of o, 
French patrole terrified the vile cowards that followed 
them ; the multitude once more fled to Talavera de la 
Reyna, and th ere consummated their intolerable villanyby 
murdering their unfortunate General, and fixing his man- 
gled body to a tree, after which, dispersing, they carried 
dishonour and fear into their respective provinces 

I would gladly communicate to you what I impartially 
think about the Spanish navy. But I am sure that all 
good Castilians will then conspire against my letters, and 
will vow and swear on a thousand crosses, that all I say 
is sheer falsehood, if I do not write a splendid descrip- 
tion of its capability. It would be better, therefore, that 
I should mention what they think themselves about the 
matter 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 71 

Their navy, they say, was formerly very formidable. 
A proof of it is that they had a fleet called " The Invinci- 
ble." We, who did not live in those times, have certainly 
witnessed defeats only ; but the engagements they have 
lost, notwithstanding their being in the proportion of four 
Spaniards to one enemy, have been effected by treason. 
Foreigners slander them, when they say that their weak- 
ness has become so great that Spanish men-of-war do not 
dare to attack those of equal size and force, but only ves- 
sels of a smaller armament. No good Castilian, however, 
must believe it, and if he knows that it is true, he must, 
nevertheless, affirm that it is a slander uttered by envious 
persons, who endeavor to destroy the high, honorable, 
and chivalrous character of Spain. When the port of 
Havana was blockaded by a Mexican brig, under the com- 
mand of the gallant Captain Porter, two or three Spanish 
frigates were anchored in the harbor. These " Invinci- 
hies" however, failed to punish such an insolent presump- 
tion, thinking that the greatest mark of valor was discre- 
tion. A native of the City, astonished at this manifesta- 
tion of cowardice, remarked to a Castilian, that it did not 
exalt his opinion of the Spanish marine. "Oh !" replied 
the latter, "it was not fear, nor any thing of the kind, but 
arose from true magnanimity ; there was no Spanish ves- 
sel here of the same size, and it would not have been 
gentlemanly to attack a foe with a force so much supe- 
rior." It escaped the memory of this apologist for the 
valor of the Spanish naval Captains, that the heavy frigate 
"Lealtad" was dispatched a few days afterwards, for 
the capture of this imprudent Mexican brig, which had 
overhauled, and was "within an ace" of making prize of 
two Spanish vessels of war. They, luckily for themsel- 
ves, escaped, by taking refuge in the port of Banes, about 
six leagues from Havana, where the brig peppered them 



72 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

rather too warmly for their comfort. The two war ves- 
sels returned after their shameful flight ; but as their 
manoeuvring had not a tendency to confer glory on the 
heroes of Castile, silence in this instance was a politic 
observance. 

In the first of the series of letters written in Cuba by 
Rev. Dr. Abbott, you may see the following narrative, 
but the fact happened many years ago, and you must 
piously believe that it is false : — 

"If we had been about two hours later, we might have 
crossed the shot of a Mexican privateer and a Spanish 
vessel, which had a rencontre at the mouth of the harbor 
(Matanzas). The Spanish Captain, after seven shots, 
abandoned his vessel in his boat with five men, and fled 
to the shore." 

Poor Spain has no first-rate men of war since the 
"Soberano" died of old age. No matter ! The great 
Navy-yards of the Peninsula, not exceeding three, launch 
at least a brig every two years ; they will very soon, how- 
ever, supply the deficiency, and set afloat a formidable 
fleet, one, not perhaps so magnificent as the famous "Ar- 
mada" destined for the conquest of England, but on a 
scale so formidable as to cause many a nation to tremble ! 

It is a well known fact, that nearly all the Spanish 
navy is in the harbor of Havana the greater part of the 
year, but more especially, since the movements of the 
Filibusters in the United States have caused apprehen- 
sions of invasion. Fame has already proclaimed through- 
out the world, the unrivalled exploits of the old steamer 
Pizarro, which, according to the newspaper Diario de la 
Marina, was dreaded by the United States. This fear, 
perhaps arose from the many victorious engagements of 
this fire-eater ; but I am so little acquainted with modern 
history, that I think that she never even exchanged shots 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 73 

with any vessel. I have only heard two of her feats viz : 
having chased without success the small steamer Creole, 
which conveyed the gallant Narciso Lopez to Cardenas ; 
and also having sunk in the harbor of Bahia-Honda, 
owing to the extreme skill of her efficient commander. 
Thus ended the career of this redoutable vessel ! But 
to preserve her noble actions from sinking into oblivion, 
another steamer was christened after her, to inspire a 
continuance of the awe created by the warlike Pizarro. 
There certainly was some wisdom in stereotyping this 
fearful name ! It prevented the enemies of Spain, from 
rejoicing at the desappearance of that nonpareil ! 

I shall omit noticing the gallant bearing of the fleet of 
Havana. The firing into the "El Dorado," and other 
American vessels, compels me humbly to recognize our 
inferiority. It is owing to Mr. Pierce and his cabinet, 
that there is not a single Catalonian in Havana, who does 
not rest under the consolatory idea, that their fleet is an 
overmatch for the whole naval force of America. 

Soldiers in the army or navy, have to submit, not only 
to heavy blows, which are administered from time, to 
time, from the moment they commence drilling, but also 
to certain calamities, designated by the enemies of the 
Grovernment as robbery committed by the officers, but 
which are only considered by the sergeants, captains, 
colonels, superintendents and comptrollers as arithmetical 
errors, accidentally committed against the soldiers. What 
is still worse, is that, after serving the time of their enlist- 
ment, the officers always find some cause to retain them 
in the service, and they are sometimes not allowed to 
retire until three or four years have elapsed after the 
expiration of their contracts. 

The pay of the soldiers of the Cuban army, is four 
times as much as that received in the Peninsula ; it is, 
4 



74 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

however, less than half of what the most wretched negro 
earns, though the work they have to perform is as hard 
as that of the slaves. Nevertheless, you should not 
infer, that they are not contented ; all the newspapers 
of Havana would contradict you. It is also necessary to 
be unacquainted with the patriotism of the Spaniards, in 
order to affirm — as many have done — that if the money 
sent to the United States to get up expeditions had been 
employed here in corrupting the troops, the success of 
the revolutionary movement would have been highly 
probable. 

Mariners, whose terms of service have expired, enjoy 
a right of which other inhabitants are deprived. They 
are the only persons who can fish at sea. Neptune, it 
seems, remonstrates against the innovations of those, who 
have not perilled their lives amid the dangers of his 
domain. Only those who are mariners, in every sense, 
he deems entitled to the " finny trasures. " Those who 
advocate the liberty of the ocean encroach on the "divine 
rights" of the Queen of Spain. 



LETTER XIV . 

Chinamen — Their first and second introduction — Indians from 
Yucatan — Natives of the Canary Islands — Montes de Oca — 
Calisto Gonzalez — Olaneta. 

In order to conclude the chapter on the population of 
Cuba, it is necessary that I should speak of the Chinamen, 
and the Indians from Yucatan (Yucatecos) ; but more par- 
ticularly about the islenos, natives of the Canary Islands. 

The first importation of Chinamen, took place about 
eight years ago (in 1847); they did not give satisfaction, 
generally, and their introduction was temporarily sus- 
pended. It has recently revived, and on some planta- 
tions they are highly valued. They refuse to work 
among the negroes, and as they are quite as strong as the 
blacks, and as their wages are only four dollars per month, 
besides their maintenance which amount to very little, it 
would not be strange to see them, at some future time, 
occupying the place of the negroes in all agricultural 
districts. 

After the first trial of Chinamen, Mestees, or Indians 
from Yucatan, were imported, and many consider them 
better on account of their mild disposition. The cholera, 
however, has attacked them several times, and their 
number has been very materially diminished. I have 



7G LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

been told that a Yucatan planter, conceived the praise- 
worthy project of furnishing well-remunerated labor to 
the destitute portion of his countrymen, giving at the same 
time a wholesome impulse to the agriculture of this 
island. Relying on the excellence of his ideas, and 
expecting that the Captain General would receive his 
offer favorably, he had an interview with him, and was 
completely amazed on being asked by that officer "What 
amount he offered to pay for each Indian introduced?" 
Our philanthropist was not aware, perhaps, that those 
functionaries derive a large profit from each negro smug- 
gled in from Africa, and that it was but natural, to expect 
that they did not wish to lose this premium, which cons- 
titutes one of the most considerable portions of their 
income. 

But the most useful and important settlers in Cuba are 
the natives of the Canary Islands, not only because they 
commonly bring with them some money, but they also 
cultivate the soil, and endure the heat and the rains as 
effectually as the negroes. They have, therefore, this ad- 
vantage over the Spaniards, who only like to transact busi- 
ness requiring very little labor, and they also find sympa- 
thizing friends among the Creoles. They perform like 
these, the occupations of may orales, cowherds, &c, are 
industrious and hard laborers. Some return to their own 
country after having amassed a pretty handsome fortune, 
instead of remaining in Cuba as is the case with Spaniards. 

They are suspected of being politically attached to the 
Creoles, and fresh in the memory of everybody is the 
history of Montes de Oca, a native of the Canary Islands, 
who was taken to the scaffold and executed, without 
sufficient legal proof, through the exertions of Sefior Ola- 
iieta. In the same manner Don Ramon Pinto met his 
fate, through the hatred and fears of Concha. Montes 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 77 

de Oca was denounced by a lawyer named Calisto Gon- 
zalez, who endeavoured, afterwards, to obtain an office, 
or decoration, for his dishonorable procedure. I have seve- 
ral times seen this wretch, who certainly has the sinister 
countenance of a mercenary spy and informer. It is said, 
that since the death of Castaneda, he has been very un- 
easy, fearing a similar punishment ; but it is likely that 
his mind is now somewhat relieved from its horrors. I 
should not be surprised, however, to hear of another 
pistol shot producing an effect similar to that which 
silenced the betrayer of Lopez. It is true that the famous 
denouncer of the conspiracy of the year eighteen hundred 
and twenty-three, headed by Lemus, and designated So- 
les de Bolivar, Don Juan Agustin Ferrety, is still living, 
although upwards of thirty years have elapsed, to enjoy 
his guilt-acquired title of Intendente de Provincia, and 
also, I believe, that of Secretary to the Queen. I do not 
conceal his name, because we all should endeavour to 
transmit it to the remotest posterity, that it may be held 
in abhorrence by the good and virtuous of succeeding 
generations. 

As I have already mentioned Olaneta, I shall make a 
rapid sketch of his life, as he will occupy a prominent 
position in the history of Cuba. The Creoles say, that 
he is their worst enemy, and that this is the reason why he 
has recently been appointed by the government as a 
member of the new board Consejo de Ultramar. When 
judgement is to be pronounced on men belonging to 
a party, great caution is necessary to avoid being the 
unwary instrument of calumny. I will only refer to what 
seems to be generally taken for granted. 

He was born in Asturias, Spain, from whence he pro- 
ceeded to Mexico. While there, he was, notwithstanding 
his origin, an advocate of the republican form of govern- 



78 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

ment ; but having suddenly changed his political opinions, 
he left that country, and arrived in Havana, about twenty 
years ago, poor, and without resources. Not having 
attended any course of studies in the University, he re- 
presented, that all his papers had been accidentally lost, 
and wished to be examined, in order to obtain the degree 
of Bachelor in Law. After its attainment, he stated that 
he had been already a lawyer, and also as such obtained 
his diploma. Before his becoming a lawyer, he had 
taken charge of several su:ts, using the services of other 
legal firms, a proceeding strictly forbidden by the Spanish 
laws. Shortly afterwards, he increased the number of 
his clients very rapidly, under the patronage of General 
Tacon, who appointed him his Attorney in the juicio de 
residencia (sham trial, in which the Captain Generals pro- 
fess to give an account of the motives of their proceed- 
ings), and rewarded his services by obtaining for him the 
office of 'fiscal (first Attorney General) of the royal court 
of judicature (Real Audiencia Pretorial) ; to do which 
the government had to violate the by-laws which it had 
formed to rule that Court, and which ordered that no per- 
son having less than ten years of practice in the law, 
should be appointed a memberof the aforesaid Royal 
Court. About twelve years afterwards, he was promot- 
ed to the presidency of that tribunal as Rejente; and was 
finally removed by Seiiior Concha, on account, it is said, of 
an old antipathy. Whether it was the effect of animosity 
against the republicans of Mexico, or other causes, un- 
known to me, the fact is, that Seiior Olafieta has been one 
of the leaders of that pure Spanish party in Cuba, which 
is strenuously oppossed to the ideas of the Creoles, both 
annexionists, or mere independents ; and though it can- 
not be denied that he has greatly contributed to exaspe- 
rate the Cubans, and increase the animosity existing 



. LETTERS FROM CUBA. 79 

between them and the Peninsulars, it is also true, that 
his party are indebted to him for great services, and un- 
interrupted exertions. It is on account of these unremit- 
ting labors, that they exalt his character to the clouds, 
and represent him as a man of uncommon endowments. 

I will neither endeavour to exculpate him from the 
heavy charges the Creoles bring against his political 
conduct, nor to support their accusations ; for I am not 
sure that there is good ground for either the one or the 
other. Many Cubans say that he is, by nature, a perver- 
se and envious man, ungrateful for the distinction which 
has been bestowed on him ; that he hates them without 
any other cause than that which arises from the wicked 
pleasure of hating ; and they charge him with many other 
faults, which, every one who fears, as I do, to be inconsi- 
derate in publishing matters relative to personal honor, 
will find it the wisest course not to indicate by the slight- 
est possible allusion. 



LETTER XY. 

The recomendado's family — Just censure of the inaccuracies of 
travellers — Measures taken by the author to avoid mistakes — 
Good opportunities offered to him to make important rectifica- 
tions — Sources of his information — Anti-annexionists, and con 
cessionists — An anti-Spaniard — An adherent to the Cuban 
statu quo — A rabid filibuster and abolitionist — The aplatana- 
do Spaniard — A programme of subsequent letters. 

After several months' residence in the western part 
of Cuba, and after travelling through a few of the districts 
of the tract comprehended between Matanzas and San 
Diego Springs, I returned to Havana, highly delighted 
with the pleasing remembrances of this natural and luxu- 
riant garden, and still more so, with the amiable and 
generous hospitality of the Creoles. I will, therefore, 
relate to you my adventures and impressions, being con- 
fident that you will envy me the happy hours I have 
enjoyed in this charming country. Others, not less sweet, 
have succeeded to these : I owe them to the kindness 
and cordiality of my recomendado, and his respectable 
and virtuous family, as well as to his select visitors. From 
their instructive intercourse, I have gathered the interest- 
ing and valuable facts, and many of the remarks con- 
tained in my letters. I must, however, observe to you, 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 81 

that all these facts and remarks have been corrected and 
revised by me so scrupulously, that I can venture to. 
make myself as accountable for every thing I advance, 
as if I had been an eye-witness. I have endeavoured by 
the most careful attention, to escape the charge of inaccu- 
racy, or exaggeration, which is .very often, and with much 
justice, made against travellers, on account of their incon- 
siderate haste in forming their judgement. 

My opportunities and facilities for correcting these in- 
accuracies have been very favorable. The diversity, 
and sometimes the contrariety of humors and political 
opinions, as well as economical views entertained by 
the visitors above mentioned furnish me with these faci- 
lities. As these persons are my authorities, I think it 
would be desirable for you to be informed of their posi- 
tion in society, in order to be able to ascertain their weight, 
that is, the measure of credence my assertions or state- 
ments may deserve. 

I shall commence with my recomendado and designate 
him by the name of Don Antonio. You well know the 
reasons why I am compelled to use fictitious names and 
avoid exactness in minute details, from which this jealous 
government might guess, who are the persons to whom I 
allude. He is an honest, frank, generous person of tras- 
cendent abilities, of clear foresight, and prudence. This 
gives great weight to his opinions, if a correct idea 
can be formed from the number of persons who consult 
him and rely upon his advice, and the marks of admira- 
tion and esteem shown by all those who depend upon his 
decisions. He is liberal in politics, and even an advocate 
of the republican form of government. He does not, how- 
ever, understand republicanism as it exists at the present 
time in several parts of the world, including our own 
country, and is, therefore, strenuously opposed to the 



82 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

annexation of this Island to the United States. He even 
dislikes, in the present circumstances, the plan of eman- 
cipation from Spain, preferring a reform of the present 
system of government ; on which account he is called by 
his friend the Concesionista. You will hereafter be made 
acquainted with the reasons he adduces to prove that 
Spain would never lose the Island, if she should establish 
a thoroughly liberal form of government. 

One of the persons who most frequently visit him, and 
whom I will call Don Placido, is an old lawyer, on the 
eve of retiring from professional business, though he is 
continually making inquiries, as to the proceedings of the 
tribunals, and keeps a faithful record of all the wrongs 
committed by them, tracing to their true source the mo- 
tives of all their decisions. He is also a living registry of 
the biographies and genealogies of the government officers 
and other persons : a depository of interesting anecdotes, 
and a severe, though learned critic of all events. His 
political opinions are mostly in opposition to those of 
Don Antonio ; but though they sometimes become angry 
in the course of their disputes, they are great friends and 
cannot remain separated from each other many days. In 
his opinion, Cuba can expect no good whatever from 
Spain. Being possessed of a wonderful memory, he is in 
the habit of bringing all questions to the test of facts. You 
will learn from his account of the late Cuban movements, 
various interesting particulars unknown to many who 
consider themselves well posted up in these matters, in 
regard to all the leaders in the revolutionary career of 
Cuba, either in the Island, or in the United States. Don 
Placido must have been an eminent lawyer, and I believe 
that the interest which you may take in my letters, will 
be attributable to his profound remarks on the judicial 
system of this Island. 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 83 

Another Creole who visits my recomendado, and whom 
I will call Don Evaristo, is an advocate of the statu quo in 
Cuba ; he is not satisfied with the system of government, 
but he fears the effects of a revolution. Being a wealthy 
man, and living comfortably, he laments the crying evils 
committed by the government; but his indignation is never 
greatly excited, and he bears everything with patience, 
hoping for a favorable change of the Cabinet at Madrid, 
and fearing a sudden insurrection of the slaves. My obser- 
vations warrant me in believing that this man represents 
a very numerous class of Creoles. 

These are the coryphssi of our friendly meetings. The 
other persons coincide in a greater or less degree with 
their opinions; but there are two other who deserve a 
more particular notice. One of them is the eldest son of 
my recomendado, who is an abolitionist and a determined 
filibuster ; the other is an aplatanado Spaniard, that is, 
one who has become identified with the interests of the 
country by a long residence, by the Creole children and 
grandchildren he has, by the extensive number of his 
relations and acquaintances, and by his old friendship 
towards Don Antonio, to whose father he was indebted 
for the first elements of his fortune. The political opinions 
he avows, are uttered, I believe, with a view to accom- 
modate them to those of his associates. I also believe that, 
notwithstanding their intimacy with Don Cosme — as I 
will call him — our other personages are cautious in not 
declaring before him, all they think, in order, perhaps, 
not to hurt his feelings. 

The circle is formed at dinner-time, but the most seri- 
ous debates take place after having taken coffee, amidst 
the smoke of segars ; and they very often continue until 
late in the evening. While at table, entertaining stories, 
ancient and modern, are narrated, all sprinkled with the 



84 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

witty and often taunting and caustic remarks of the lady 
and her sprightly daughters, who are strongly opposed 
to Spaniards and to every thing which appertains to the 
Peninsula. The boys, who are thoroughly inoculated 
with filibusterism, enjoy the repartees, for their belief is 
unbounded in the most absurd accounts relating the imbe- 
cility, ignorance and weakness of Spain. 

I listen to every thing, and occupy morning hours in 
recording facts and correcting the observations already 
recorded. I am styled the Yankee, and very often Mr. 
Yankee, or Senor Yankee, as they cannot accustom them- 
selves to pronounce my name. Every one exerts himself 
to instruct and attract me to his party : they look upon me 
as if 1 were a Cuban, and I am treated in a frank and 
friendly manner. The Spaniard, however, sometimes looks 
at me in a manner that, I think, evinces his distrust, espe- 
cially when I put some of my numberless questions. I 
glean an extensive knowledge of facts, manners &c. from 
their contradictory statements during conversation, and 
what I regret is that very seldom they all meet together. 
The most punctual at the meetings, however, are those 
whom I first named. 

My task would be more easy, were I to communicate 
to you the substance of these conferences ; but the plan I 
have adopted is preferable, as in giving a general and 
methodical idea of all matters of common interest, repe- 
titions are avoided, and all the information acquired is 
thus transmitted in the shortest possible space. I will, 
therefore, continue this subject in my forthcoming letters, 
mingling but slightly in political discussions. My travel- 
ling impressions will follow next, as I promised, and then 
scenes of real life in Cuba. Lastly, the reader being in 
possession of these important data, and somewhat acquaint- 
ed with the t ue state of the country, I will enter into 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 85 

political affairs, and the full exposition of the doings, intri- 
gues, and frauds committed by Cuban traitors, or foolishly 
presumptuous reformers, and also by Americans unwor- 
thy of confidence. 



LETTER XVI. 

Spanish officers — Captain Generals — Their powers — Their abuses — 
Case of Larrazabal — Alderman Espelius — Arbitrary deporta- 
tions — Ancient law of the Code of Indies — Bad consequen- 
ces of their arbitrary acts — Captain Generate may adjudge con 
cerning life or death — Details little known of the death of Crit- 
tenden and his companions — Concha's course in tire affair of 
Tinto. 



In this letter I will begin to treat of the subject of the 
officers sent to Cuba by the Spanish government. I will 
write at some length respecting the Captain Generals, as 
the most important of all, but I will for the present only 
speak briefly about the others, not because the matter 
would be void of interest, which is not the case, but to 
prevent you from becoming wearied by long details. I 
intend also to be extremely cautious and sparing in my 
political remarks; in fact you may consider them as pencil 
sketches of the features of the leading officials in Cuba. 

The Captain General's power is unlimited, for since 
eighteen hundred and twenty-five, discretionary powers 
have been granted to them, "to do every thing they may 
consider as expedient." These words recall to my memory 
the old Roman phrase Car cant Consults. The various 
administrative departments, however, are put in charge 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. S7 

of other officers ; but as the responsibility of the preser- 
vation of the Island devolves on that functionary alone, 
every measure which is resolved upcm by the authorities, 
whatever their rank, must be approved by him before 
they can be carried into operation. There is then a law — 
for in Cuba they consider as a law every thing which is 
enacted by the Monarch, quod Prindpi irtacuit — which 
gives to Captain Generals the authority, and enables them 
to assume the character and exercise the despotism of 
dictators ; but it remains to be seen whether the authors 
of such a law possessed the right to establish it, or, as we 
say in America, whether it is a constitutional one or not. 

Though it seems on the first view that municipal regu- 
lations belong exclusively to certain settled local authori- 
ties, the Captain Generals, whenever it pleases them, exer- 
cise their privilege of control. Extraordinary as this fact 
may seem to you, it can be easily explained by a mere 
reference to the case of the well known Spaniard named 
Lorenzo Larrazabal, which took place on the first day of 
the year eighteen hundred and fifty-four. 

It is incumbent upon the Municipalities (Ayuntamien- 
tos) of the Island to choose on the first day of each year, 
the alcaldes ordinarios (Justices of the Peace). The no- 
minations are submitted to the Captain General, and in 
case he does not give them his approval, a new election 
is made. In the aforesaid year, it was the good pleasure 
of His Excellency to confer the distinction of Alcalde, 
upon a Biscay en named Larrazabal, a Notary Public. 
By a gentle hint to the Aldermen before the election day, 
he expressed his wish for the nomination of this candidate. 
They were unwilling to gratify this inclination, but dared 
not resist it : a Spanish Alderman, Espelius, was the only 
one who opposed this unlawful meddling. Why did not 
others also disregard the insinuations of the Chief? They 



88 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

might have rightfully done so. Why did they not then 1 
I will now explain. 

Captain Generals possess the incredible authority to 
dispatch to the Peninsula, or to other place whatever, 
any person, no matter what may be his rank or circum- 
stances, provided they consider his living in Cuba as dan- 
gerous to the Spanish regime. They are not bound to 
explain the reasons they have for taking such a course : 
and all that is required from them is to send a mere notice 
to the government at Madrid. This, you are aware, is the 
fiat of deportation, a heart-rending punishment ; and, as is 
easily perceived, it can be inflicted on every inhabitant 
who has the misfortune to cause the least displeasure to 
His Excellency, though he may not have committed any 
deed which could warrant the infliction of such a penalty. 

There is an ancient law of the Code of the Indies ( Le- 
yes de Indias), which plainly forbids these outrageous 
proceedings; but although it has not been expressly abro- 
gated, it has been rendered void by the discretionary 
powers before alluded to, allowed to all successive Captain 
Generals, and which are known by the latin name of om- 
nimodce ; so that, it may be truly asserted that all the in- 
habitants of Cuba are entirely dependent on the supreme 
will of these military officers, and have, consequently, to 
surrender themselves to their caprices, even in matters 
which are placed by legal restrictions beyond their control. 

Though you will easily foresee the sad results of such 
monstrous power, perhaps you will still be more indig- 
nant on learning that these functionaries may take the 
lives of whomsoever they choose for victims. Horrid and 
barbarous as this may appear to you, it is really so ; and 
hence the reason why Concha has been surnamed the 
executioner of Crittenden and his fifty companions, the 
murderer of Pinto, &c. 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 89 

It is true that they have not legal authority to impose 
capital punishments by means of a simple verbal or written 
decree : it is also true that according to law, the judi- 
cial power must be nearly independent of the Governors ; 
and lastly, I will admit that, were all the judges honor- 
able men, as well as inflexibly just in the fulfilment of 
their duties, the Captain Generals might not be able to 
commit such a crime, because they cannot, even in their 
capacity of head of the army, duly condemn to death a 
private soldier until after several judicial proceedings in 
which he is constrained to follow the advice of counsel. 

But these legal restrictions are a dead letter, in point 
of fact, a paramount ascendency over the mind of the 
Judge must necessarily be exercised by Captain Gene- 
rals on account of the power with which they are vested 
of removing all the officers of the Colony without even 
assigning a reason for the procedure. Those of the Military 
Commission, especially, are more effectually influenced 
by them, because they are indebted for their appointments 
to these high functionaries; and gratitude, or fear, com- 
bined with an easy acquiescence, make them blind instru- 
ments of these despots. The details of the execution of 
Crittenden strike us with many unfavorable impressions 
of the character of Senor Concha. Though much has 
been already said and written respecting this mournful 
catastrophe, I presume you are not in possession of the 
full particulars. The event has been greatly misrepre- 
sented by political parties ; and I hope it may prove a gra- 
tification to you to receive an impartial account. 

Those unfortunate men were taken on the open sea ; 

they had parted from the invading corps of Lopez ; they 

were completely unarmed; and presented conclusive prooi 

of their repentance. If they intended to commit a crime, 

they were deterred from it in due time ; and if those who 
4* 



90 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

adhered to the invader to the last extremity incurred capi- 
tal punishment, justice would require that those who aban- 
doned him from the beginning should suffer a milder 
penalty. The companions of General Lopez, after kill- 
ing Enna and many Spanish officers and privates, were 
sent to Ceuta ; those of Crittenden, who did not shed 
blood, could not fairly be subjected to a military execution. 

They were condemned and shot without a trial : such 
a course is not acknowledged by the laws of war, even 
when the enemy has been taken with arms in hand, and 
surrenders. On the other hand, the lenity of civilized 
nations Requires that in all cases, where members are con- 
demned to suffer, the leading characters only should be 
sacrificed ; the less guilty having their sentences mitigated 
by a merciful commutation. Many requests were presented 
to Seiior Concha to incline him to follow this latter course; 
the present Bishop, it is said, interposed also ; and some 
affirm that there was a Judge of the Superior Court who 
adviced the General to adopt this recognized custom. 

The motives which urged the Captain General to refuse 
these representations were, as stated, highly shameful : 
the Chief of Police told him that if all the Pirates were 
not to be shot, the Catalonians would undoubtedly revolt 
and perhaps attack Concha himself; an.d the pusillani- 
mous fear of these threats being carried into effect, in- 
duced him to shed so much blood. 

Another charge has been preferred against Concha in 
relation to that dastardly affair. He might, they say, have 
devolved on the General commanding the fleet, the res- 
ponsibility of the punishment to be inflicted on Critten- 
den's party, as having captured them, and also possessing 
the power to be their judge. It seems, then, that the 
Captain General endeavoured to seek, instead of avoiding 
the opportunity of accomplishing this sanguinary deed; 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 91 

and if this be true, as the appearances indicate, there is a 
very strong foundation for the appellation of "The Tiger 
of Atares, " with which the Creoles have nicknamed this 
little tyrant. 

His course in the trial of Ramon Pinto has strengthened 
the former suspicions of Concha's cowardice. It is an 
undeniable fact that the Catalonians, also on that occasion, 
demanded the sacrifice. Actuated by an atrocious male- 
volence, and without knowing whether their countryman 
was really guilty or not, they vociferously called for his 
head. 

I should like to ask those men : — "What right have you 
to censure the precipitancy of Lynch Law ?" This is 
applied in too violent a manner, and indeed, with an in- 
considerate haste; but, at the same time, no doubt is ever 
entertained as to the culpability of the accused : on the 
contrary, that measure is always demanded by the noto- 
riety of the crime, and the indignation produced by it, 
which are precisely the true causes of the precipitancy of 
the mob ; and, notwithstanding the multiplicity of proofs, 
a jury is in all cases called, and an opportunity for defen- 
ce allowed. What a striking contrast there is between 
these proceedings and the seeking of a man's life, only on 
account of the accusation of a single individual charging 
him, not with having perpetrated, but with the intention 
to perpetrate a crime! 

It has been said that the death of Pinto was "a judicial 
murder :" this question may be answered by Spanish 
lawyers. For my own part, I can only affirm, that if 
that unfortunate man had been tried in New York, the 
evidence which in Cuba was considered sufficient to war- 
rant his condemnation and execution, would not have jus- 
tified the infliction of the slightest punishment there. The 
accusation was founded on the testimony of a single wit- 



92 LKTTERS FROM CUBA. 

ness, a wretched villain, totally unworthy of belief, and 
especially so in a matter of such vital importance. The 
failure of the Judges to agree, the Auditor de Guerra 
(legal Advicer of Concha), voting for the life of Pinto, 
would have been sufficient cause for any General of more 
humane feelings, to lean to the side of mercy, and inflict 
a milder punishment. Concha was then placed between 
two fire ships : Was he actuated by the thirst of blood, 
or by the fear of the Catalonians 1 Perhaps some would 
unhesitatingly answer : By both. 



LETTER XYII. 

Trials of Residencia, a humbug — Astonishing' results of the accusa- 
tions made against Tacon — General Ricafort — Sanchez Lima— 
Delgado — Spoliations of the ancient Viceroys — A double 
censure Soler's escape — Don Jacobo de la Pezuela. 

Were you to read these letters to any of the Spaniards 
who are partizans of the political regime now in force in 
Cuba, and who consider their national honor interested 
in the justification of their government in all matters, he 
would return you an answer that, perhaps, would puzzle 
you for a seasonable reply, and I almost fear you would 
admit he was right, thinking that I am not fully informed 
on the subject. He would say that the laws of the Indies 
imperatively demand that all the Governors going out of 
office, as well as their subordinates, should render an 
account of all the abuses of power committed during their 
administration. That law, it is true, exists, and it is also 
true that several officials in minor situations have been 
severely corrected : some of them have even been subject- 
ed to the most extreme poverty by the imposition of heavy 
fines. These fines, however, have been diverted to the 
royal treasury instead of being devoted to the indemnifi- 
cation of those who suffered from those abuses. But ask 
those who would quote that law to you if they know of 



94 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

any Captain General who has been punished by the slight- 
est penalty 1 They would, undoubtedly, answer "no," if 
they spoke the truth ; and then, ask them whether they 
do, in good faith, believe that all those functionaries have 
gone out of office free from stain — And the same answer 
would be returned. 

The law relative to residencias can certainly be read 
in the Code, but, as this, like nearly all the Spanish laws, 
is not applied whenever Judges prefer to neglect it; as 
there are not in Spain any means of enforcing the judicial 
responsibility , the courts disregard all the enactments 
that do not suit their interested views. No one of the Cap- 
tain Generals has been the subject of more general com- 
plaint than Don Miguel Tacon ; but no one has received 
such liberal rewards from the Supreme government of 
Spain : no one obtained so brilliant a triumph, as he did, 
in his residcncia. It seems impossible that among the 
great number of his accusers, who exposed themselves 
t<» the risk of being condemned to pay* costs and other 
penalties, not a single one should be right in their char- 
ges. The only individual, who atoned for Tacon's sins, 
was Suarez, whom he consulted from choice, instead of 
employing the adviser appointed by the Cabinet. Accord- 
ing to learned lawyers, for this act he must have partaken 
the responsibility with the Counsel ; Suarez, however, 
suffered all the punishment; Don Miguel, equally guilty 
with Suarez, besides being the sole author of the arbitrary 
proceedings, was recognized as having fulfilled his duty 
to the full satisfaction of the Queen. To remove all doubts 
from your mind as to the partiality and injustice com- 
mitted by the Judge against the claimants, there is a 
conclusive proof: since that date, sham trials of this kind 
have ceased, the inhabitants being well aware that they 
are but a mockery of law and justice. 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 95 

Until the year eighteen hundred and thirty two in which 
Don Mariano Ricafort was installed as Captain General, 
the Cubans had enjoyed the good fortune of being fre- 
quently governed by true gentlemen. This functionary, 
however, was accompanied on his arrival by a retinue of 
adventurers from the Peninsula, who landed here with the 
avowed purpose of enriching themselves as rapidly as pos- 
sible. A Colonel named Sanchez Lima, brother in law 
of the Captain General, not only sold every office, but by 
bribes interposed his influence with the Judges, in order 
to obtain false decisions. Another, called Delgado, re- 
turned to Madrid scarcely one year after his departure, 
and astonished all classes by his ostentation, luxury and 
the insolence of his demeanor ; and even the simple Ad- 
jutants engaged in impudent and profitable intrigues.— 
It was generally believed that the General did not plun- 
der, though he gave leave to his wife and relations to do 
it, following precisely the same tactics formerly pursued 
by the Viceroys of Mexico, in order to preserve untarnish- 
ed the splendor of their authority, and transact at the 
same time a lucrative business. 

One of the proteges of Seiior Ricafort, Soler by name, 
had gained his whole confidence. Although two censors 
of the press had been long established to prevent the 
publication of political writings, or those contrary to sound 
morality, the General established a second censorship, 
in order to review the papers already examined by the 
other, and entrusted Soler with the office. It was sup- 
posed that this man possessed learning, and was of good 
morals ; but whether he had or had not acquired the for- 
mer of these qualifications, he only afforded in Cuba irre- 
fragable proofs of being entirely destitute of the latter; for* 
to cap the climax of his excesses, he enticed away and 
carried to New Orleans an unmarried daughter of an off]- 



96 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

cer in the army, and created matter for the tongue of 
scandal, such as seldom before excited the condemnation 
of the Habaneros. 

Such is the character of the Captain General, whom 
Don Jacobo de la Pezuela calls upright (recto). This 
Seiior Pezuela has written a " Historical Essay on the 
Island of Cuba," and he adds that Ricafort's administra- 
tion was weak, "on account (a very funny observation !) 
of his old wounds." The only thing the historian relates 
of the officers that General took with him to Havana, 
is that "they did not deserve the confidence he bestowed 
on them." You may see here a new specimen of the 
manner in which Spaniards write History. This same 
Pezuela, some years after the publication of his book, 
was removed from a military office which he held in Cuba, 
for reasons not very creditable to him. This occurrence 
amazed me greatly ; because I had read a certain para- 
graph in his "Essay, " in which he paints in the darkest 
colors those officers "without honor," who gather riches 
from the pickings of their offices. 



LETTER XVIII. 

General Don Miguel Tacon and his administration — His partizans 
and adversaries — Satirical remark of a lady — Character of 
Tacon — His pernicious associates — An honorable exception — 
Anecdotes of the Commissioners Aldermen and several others — 
Banishments. 

It is reasonable that you should ask my opinion of 
General Tacon and his administration. Though this is a 
difficult subject, I will enter into it with the same frank- 
ness that I would use with you in a friendly conversation 
if we were on board a steamboat bound on a pleasant 
excursion to West Point. 

An endless variety of opinions are embraced on this sub- 
ject. The numerous partizans of that General assure 
that he has done many good things ; his adversaries, on 
the contrary, maintain that he has performed many bad 
acts; and I have drawn the inference that if he was the 
author of some good, he was also the perpetrator of ma/jy 
evils. Such a thing must necessarily occur with a man 
of his character, upon whom an unlimited trust is confer- 
red, affording him opportunities of fully gratifying his 
caprices. Every man, however naturally good, if left in 
the uncontrolled possession of power, will by degrees be- 
come arbitrary in his views, and despotic in his acts. 



98 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

So deep was the rancor of parties under his administra- 
tion, that it is not yet appeased. A lady, whose husband 
was accustomed to win money at the game of monte, is 
unwilling to ascribe any merit to him. It having been 
observed to her that it was undeniable that he repressed 
murders and other outrages, she exclaimed : " But we 
were better off in the time of the punaladas (dirks and 
daggers)." 

I natter myself with the hope that future historians, if 
impartial and dispassionate, will speak of Tacon in similar 
terms to those which I am now about to use with regard 
to him, because I have carefully procured reliable infor- 
mation on this matter from all quarters. 

It is a well established trait of the man that he was al- 
ways ardently desirous of promoting good order. I have 
been assured that on hearing of the committal of any 
wrong, or ascertaining the existence of any abuse, he be- 
came highly excited, and, on account of his impetuous 
character, his face and whole frame gave proofs of the 
most violent indignation. Had this good disposition been 
properly cultivated, you know it would have produced 
most beneficial results. He, however, either through want 
of reflection, or ignorance of the true principles of mora- 
lity, thought that all means were lawful, if they kept in 
view the attainment of a desirable end. In order to 
suppress vice he employed vicious men as his instruments, 
and seconded their acts by his own unworthy pro- 
ceedings. He protected denouncers and loafers, and en- 
couraged unbecoming and infamous inquiries, not disdain- 
ing to notice even anonymous communications, believing, 
on account of his extraordinary suspiciousness, that these 
missives contained some sprinklings of truth. In my 
humble opinion, the maxim "Cum finem vult Deus, me- 
dia probat," is not an exponent of sound morals, except 



LETTERS PROM CUBA. 99 

when the word honesta is fully understood. Are you 
not of this school, my dear Charles ? 

He abhorred, but did not conlemn the wicked. On the 
contrary, he believed it to be lawful to profit by their ser- 
vices; he was surrounded by them, and they apparently 
enjoyed his unlimited confidence. By this unwise course, 
he indirectly increased the power, the prestige, and the 
influence of those despicable men, affording them, uncons- 
ciously, fresh opportunities to commit crimes, because the 
vulgar, on seeing the intimacy and the kindness with 
which he treated these offenders, suppossed them to pos- 
sess more favor than they really did, and those deceitful 
appearances were largely improved to their profit. 

Three persons were seen in the afternoon of a certain 
day descending the stairs with Tacon to take a walk 
Who could doubt that they were his friends 1 Two of 
them preceded him : on his left was the person who nar- 
rated this anecdote. This gentleman was addressed by 
the General midway down the stairs : "What a design- 
ing fellow is that on the right hand, !" said he — "Yes," 
answered the other, " but the one on the left is not a whit 
the less." — "At least he is not a hypocrite," observed 
Tacon. — He was well aware of the wickedness of both, 
but condescended to make them his companions in the 
proposed short ride. 

On the same occasion another occurrence took place, 
which I will mention now lest it should escape my me- 
mory. The clerk of a Notary presented to the Greneral 
a stamped paper and a pen with ink to sign an auto (judi- 
cial decree). He read it with great attention, and hand- 
ed it to the clerk saying : "Tell Senor Suarez that this is 
not what I told him." — While reading the defence of 
Tacon, and seeing it alleged that his legal adviser was 
alone responsible for all his judicial errors, I never fail to 



100 LETTKRS FROM CUBA. 

recollect this fact, and I feel my indignation rise at so im- 
pudent an instance of perfidy. 

It would be enough to publish a simple list of the pro- 
teges of Tacon, in order to convince all who know them 
that it is impossible to justify him. Among them we 
find-an Auditor de guerra (Counsel for the War Depart- 
ment), whose abuses more than once produced great asto- 
nishment at the Supreme Court of Madrid, on seeing them 
recorded in the law-proceedings carried to it in consequen- 
ce of appeals made from him — an assessor of the Inten- 
dente, who, some years afterwards surprised the people 
of Havana by presenting himself among them invested 
with the office of Rejente of the Audiencia, having pro- 
cured it by means, it is generally believed, of a very shame- 
ful intrigue — an adviser, the well known Suarez, who, 
after having given manifold proofs of a venal character, 
during a certain judicature, was the terror of all those 
who being accused, had not the means of satisfying his 
avarice, and were of course sentenced without their 
defence or proofs being read — a perverse lawyer, who 
having been a fiscal (Ministerial officer) for many years, 
took pleasure in exaggerating his accusations, causing 
mguish to the accused, in order to compel them to supply 
him with money, and after having extorted large sums 
From them by the dread of punishment, he did not scruple 
to contradict the impeachments which he had formerly 
presented. Two Colonels, the one loaded with debts, and 
the other with crimes — the vile myrmidon Moya — the 
infamous mulatto Values, formed a portion of this reck- 
less gang Permit me, however, to descontinue this 

black list of miserable scoundrels; such a task would bo 
too repugnant to me, besides being very long, for I have 
been told of only one honorable exception: the Colonel 
o£ the Military Engineers Don Felix Lemaur, whose cha- 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 101 

racter was distinguished for the most inflexible integrity 
and superior science. 

Tacon exhibited himself to the Cubans as the quintes- 
sence of despotism, because they had not seen till then any 
thing to which it bore a resemblance. In fact, he was 
unwilling to recognize any limit to his authority ; he 
boldly violated all the practices and forms established 
for the administration of justice ; he made void public 
contracts, whenever he chose to imagine that they were 
founded on knavery. Acts of this kind, which destroy 
the stability of agreements, obliterate all honorable tran- 
sactions, and impair confidence, justly deserve public 
reprobation. On a certain occasion, however, one of these 
acts gained for Tacon the praise of the Habaneros. 
The contract for cleaning the streets of Havana had been 
obtained at auction on terms too favorable to the bidder, 
who procured it by bribes given to two Aldermen ( Co- 
misariosj of the Ayuntamiento. The bribes consisted of 
a costly quitrin which was presented to each of them. 
Having heard of the affair, Tacon caused the contract to 
be annulled ; at the ensuing auction, much better terms 
for the City were obtained, and the patres patrice, city 
fathers, had no objection to pay their compliments to the 
Chief for the favorable results of the business "Yes" — 
answered Tacon — " but there will be no carriages this 
time." Eye-witnesses assert that the blush of shame did 
not mantle very deeply on the cheeks of these City Worth- 
ies: they, on the contrary, affirm that they smiled on hear- 
ing the remarkably witty saying of his Excellency, who, 
with great justice, gave them a direct insult : the public 
laughed at the Aldermen, and applauded Tacon. 

It is also undeniable that amidst the terrors which pre- 
vailed throughout the Island, the only persons who were 
reconciled to the government which caused such a lamen- 



102 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

table state of things, was that privileged class who com- 
posed the Camarilla, or the cotery of Tacon's private in- 
formers. They were able at every moment to observe 
the lashing of the lion's tail, in order to be admonished 
whether he was disposed or not to devour them ; but 
there was not a man, however inoffensive or honest he 
might be, who could go cooly to bed without fearing to 
be awakened at midnight and carried without a hearing 
to jail or to the vessel which was to convey him as an 
exile from all he held dear in life. 

Some persons say that only bad characters were tram- 
pled upon by the Governor. Admitting this to be a fact ; 
yet much time necessarily elapsed before this fact became 
generally known ; and in the meantime all classes were in 
a state of fearful uncertainty. It seems to rne that the 
Spanish rulers have never attentively considered how 
heavy a punishment banishment is: otherwise they would 
not so readily apply it to the Cubans without a fair trial. 
In the greatest number of cases, the poor families of the 
banished are the greatest sufferers : misery, vice and 
crime are the inheritance of the sons and daughters reluc- 
tantly left behind by their natural protectors. The authors 
of such arbitrary and despotic measures must be alone 
responsible. 

Among the successors of Tacon, there are some who 
have far surpassed him in misgovernment. O'Donnell, Ca- 
fiedo and Concha distinguished themselves by a manifes- 
tation of hatred to the inhabitants of Cuba. Through the 
orders and the subsequent approval of the last named, 
General Leimerich seized in the same day eleven fathers 
of families having in all more than fifty children, and with- 
out any trial, sent them to Spain. This atrocious barba- 
rity instead of being duly punished by the Spanish Queen, 
has been rewarded by sending again to Cuba the same 
ro^n who inflicted so many evils on this Island. 



LET TEE XIX. 

Bzpeleta — Anglona — Valdes — Judge Zaxco del Valle — Judi- 
cial intrigues — Judge Laguna. 

Ezpeleta, successor to Tacon, allowed more freedom 
to the Cubans, though he respected the rules established 
by his predecessor. He discontinued, however, the per- 
secutions carried on by the former. As he was a tall, 
meagre and colorless man, he is styled by my friend Don 
Placido "The pale shadow of Don Miguel." This same 
nickname may be generally applied to all those who held 
the reins of government down to the administration of 
O'Donnell, of whom I shall have occasion to speak here- 
after. Prince Anglona did not endeavor to suppress 
gambling, but, on the contrary, encouraged and favored 
it. General Valdes, who is celebrated as the restorer of 
the University, obtained a high character for honesty and 
disinterestedness from the whole of the community. On 
going out of office, it was rumored that he was very short 
of money, and a collection was made in order to enable 
him to return to Spain. I think that the allegation of such 
extreme poverty is rather absurd in a person who had been 
in an office receiving so immense an amount of fees. If 
some of these officers have done any good, in spite of the 
frequent opportunities and inducements offered them to do 



104 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

evil, their merits will be highly exalted, and their renown 
materially heightened ; but I believe that such characters 
have been very few, and it is long since they exercised 
their philanthropic dispositions. 

I will relate to you an occurrence which being minu- 
tely described, will give you a correct idea of the temper 
of General Valdes, and also of several legal proceedings. 
If he should ever happen to read this letter, and see all 
these details faithfully recorded and revealed, they will 
not fail to excite his astonishment. Every deed, however 
well concealed for a time, must one day come to light. 

A lawyer, whom I will designate by the letter F., was 
entrusted with the prosecution of a suit involving a very 
large amount of property. A decision was to be render- 
ed on the second trial by a tribunal in which the Auditor 
was to deliver his opinion in conduction with a Counsellor 
appointed by the Captain General. Any verdict this Court 
might agree upon, was to be carried into effect immedia- 
tely, and finally it would determine whether F's party 
should or should not continue in the possession of a capi- 
tal of six or seven hundred thousand dollars. In the latter 
case, he still had the resourse of appealing to the higher 
Courts of Spain ; but he would then have been deprived 
not only of the enjoyment of so large an amount of 
money, but also of the means of buying his rights in the 
Peninsula. The appointment that Valdes was about to 
make was of the greatest moment, as the fate of that par- 
ty was entirely dependent on the honesty of the Counse- 
llor. Honesty was also very slippery amidst the induce- 
ments which it was likely were being offered, when such 
an immense amount of property was involved in the deci- 
sion. 

The lawyer ascertained that several competitors were 
endeavoring to be elected, and the excuse they offered to 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 105 

the Captain General for their fervent desire, was that they 
wished to obtain the asesoria, (fee), derived from the ver- 
dict, which, in this case, was not less than eight hundred 
dollars. You may consider this as too large a remunera- 
tion for a work of six or eight hours at the desk ; but it is 
by no means so, and they sometimes amount to larger 
sums, as they are regulated by the number of pages of 
the judicial records of each law-suit. The ambition of the 
candidates was not restrained to the fee: they wished to 
gain the gratitude of the party in whose favor the deci- 
sion would be rendered, and in these cases that feeling is 
estimated by the number of doubloons which they receive. 
One of the most active and barefaced solicitors was a 
Judge of the Superior Court, named Don Manuel Remon 
Zarco del Valle. He explained to F. through a common 
friend, that he wanted to obtain the appointment because 
he needed the amount of the fee in order to realize a con- 
templated voyage to the Peninsula. He also requested 
the lawyer not to challenge him if he was elected and 
exert besides all his influence to procure the commission 
for him, affirming that being well satisfied of the justice 
of his party (he used this language without being at all 
acquainted with the nature of the suit), he could rely on 
having a verdict awarded in conformity with his ardent 
wishes. The lawyer did not put much confidence in the 
promises of the Judge, who was a person of bad repute, 
and instead of promoting his appointment, went promptly 
to see V aides, and requested him, in the name of his par- 
ty, not to elect Judge Zarco. He could not, however, 
avow his true motives for such a course lest he should in- 
cur the vengeance of Zarco : he was, therefore, compell- 
ed to conceal the bad opinion he entertained about the mo- 
rals of his candidate, and even the unbecoming and sus- 
picious step he had just taken with him. He only alleged 



106 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

that Zarco, being an acquaintance and frequent visitor of 
his opponent, he could not but feel great anxiety as to the 
result. He added, against his true convictions, " that he 
was far from doubting the integrity of that Judge." The 
Governor was, perhaps, influenced by the evidentjusti.ee 
of the request, and chose the Assessor Don Jose Laguna. 
The same evening at a party assembled at the Palace, he 
thus addressed him : " I have sent you to-day a very 
good commission : it may yield you twenty or perhaps 
thirty thousand dollars." But Valdes knew very well 
that the legal fee would not exceed eight hundred dollars: 
this sum was all that Laguna was fairly entitled to receive. 
Did not the Captain General by this speech offer a strong 
temptation and inducement to him to ask for more ? He 
certainly did, as you will see. 

The lawyer lost no time in paying a visit to the Asses- 
sor in order to sound his intentions. The newly appointed 
official having meditated on the real meaning of Valdes' 
words, thought, it seems, that he might draw from his 
situation something more than the simple fee. He spoke, 
then, to F. very mysteriously relative to a document un- 
favorable in its nature to his client ; F. suspected him of 
making this statement for the purpose of extortion; but 
in the collection of papers there was another document 
that gave evidence of the former one being false. He 
showed it to Laguna, and the latter was compelled to 
acknowledge the fact. Laguna, then, informed F. of Val- 
des' expression. What was his design ? The dullest man 
might have conjectured the motive, but had the lawyer 
been less sagacious, or looked carelessly at his client's 
concerns, the latter would have made some sacrifice to 
gratify that Judge. Fortunately he did not ; he gained 
his cause; but Zarco bowed him everlasting hatred. 



L ETTER XX. 

G'Donncll — Spoliations — His abusive conduct towards Don Ro- 
sendo Fernandez — The poet Piacido — Selling of bottles. 

Don Leopoldo CT Jonnej* is charged with having com- 
menced the spoils-system which has not yet been discon- 
tinued, nor is it probable that it will ever cease. The fame 
of his brave military exploits had preceded his arrival; 
perhaps it was honorably acquired in Spain ; perhaps he 
deserved it among armed men ; and it was an easy thing 
to appear much more courageous among an unarmed 
people. Wolves seem far more valiant among sheep than 
when mixing with their own species. 

One of O'Donnell's first acts, however, did not give 
a very promising demonstration of his personal bravery. 
It was slapping with his own hand, and in his palace, 
a meanspirited Montanes (a native of Santander), named 
Rosendo Fernandez. This miserable fellow intended to 
appropriate for himself a lottery ticket which had drawn 
the highest premium of twenty thousand dollars. Having 
been summoned before the General, he alleged several 
circumstances to prove that the ticket belonged to him. 
His statements may have been true ; but O'Donnell dis- 
believed them, and resolved the question off hand without 
observing any formalities. He adjudged that Fernandez 



108 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

should pay within twenty-four hours that large sum, and 
informed him that on failing to do so, he would be sent 
to jail, and afterwards to Spain. You see that this sen- 
tence had the merit of brevity at least. 

Besides this infliction, lie imposed another also on the 
Montanes. A few days before, the same O'Donnell had 
transmitted to Fernandez a diploma granting him the 
cross of the order of Charles the Third, which had 
been sent to him by his protector General Valdes. O'Don- 
nell now told him that he was unworthy of such a 
distinction, and that he must return the diploma immedi- 
ately. To deprive a knight of an order in so violent a 
manner, and when he had already displayed his impos- 
ing decoration, was an extremely arbitrary act, because 
it inferred degradation ; and this could not properly be 
done until a formal law-suit had been carried through 
the stated proceedings. Fernandez was completely be- 
wildered on hearing this unexpected and very extra- 
ordinary order : he complained, he protested, and very 
justly insinuated that "he did not recognize the right of 
his Excellency to exercise so great a stretch of power.'' 
On hearing this observation, the brave O'Donnell, amidst 
his bayonets, slapped the poor fellow over the face, and 
roughly forced him out of his room. 

As this single fact would go far to furnish you with a 
correct idea of the political state of Cuba, I believe it is 
too important to be passed over without statingits proofs: 
I think these will appear decisive to you from what re- 
mains to be said. 

Fernandez left the Palace, greatly agitated in mind to 
consult his law^yer, Dr. Munoz Izaguirre, who being ab* 
sent in the country, he went to a certain Magistrate who 
is at present in Madrid. I cannot tell you his name, 
because having declined to appear as Fernandez' Attor- 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 109 

ney on that occasion, it is very probable that he will 
prefer to remain still unknown, as he is to-day more than 
ever, under the grasp of O'Donnell, the present king of 
Spain. 

Said magistrate, taking interest for the plaintiff directed 
him to a lawyer, who after becoming acquainted with the 
circumstances of the case, wrote a memorial, which I have 
seen, stating all the facts as I have represented them, and 
alleging that the laws forbade verbal decisions in law- 
suits, whenever the controverted amount exceeded one 
hundred dollars. The petition ended by praying His 
Excellency to be pleased to declare that his decision order- 
ing the payment of twenty thousand dollars should be 
considered not as a command, but as a simple advice. In 
regard to the surrendering of the diploma, he also requested 
him to be pleased to repeal the order, because a solemn 
trial with all due legal proceedings was requisite for such 
delivery. I have seen, read, and admired the extraordi- 
nary answer to that memorial, and I remember well its 
own words ; "It was certainly an advice that I gave to 
one whom I considered to be a gentleman.'" The order 
was then abrogated, but the atrocious outrage committed 
on Fernandez could not be annulled. 

The following are the proofs of the correctness of my 
statements : first, the publicity of the fact in Havana ; 
second, the recital of the affair made to the lawyer by 
Don Rosendo : third, and this of itself is a sufficient proof, 
the contents of the petition, kept in the archives of the 
Secretaria ; as it is incredible that the facts should have 
been misrepresented to the same person who witnessed 
them. 

O'Donnell seems to have thought he had acquired new 
honors by this abusive behavior, for from that day he 
began to require all persons meeting him in the streets to 



110 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

take off their hats. On a certain morning, he went out 
to ride accompanied by an officer of his staff, and passed 
through one of the streets of the ward of Jesus Maria, 
where a few young men were talking and smoking their 
seofars. As O'Donnell's arrival at Havana had taken 
place shortly before, it is very likely that they did not re- 
cognize him. While passing, he looked sharply at them, 
and after proceeding a short distance, he turned his horse 
and asked them in an angry tone, "Why did you not salute 
me?" Every one then, took off his hat, and he, some- 
what abashed, passed on. I have been informed that 
there is not any Spanish law which imposes upon Citizens 
the duty O'Donnell required them to perform, although 
it is true that in Cuba, as it has been said, Governors are 
the incarnate law. 

This General, notwithstanding the short period of his 
administration, returned to Spain loaded with a larger 
amount of spoils than any of his predecessors. I will not, 
however, dwell upon a fact so well known, but will ad- 
here to my purpose of telling you only what is not to be 
found in books. I will therefore point out the sources of 
his present wealth, which, it is stated, even Queen Isa- 
bella envies. They were : the fee collected on each Afri- 
can negro introduced into the Island ; the proceeds from 
the hiring of emancipados (those who had been taken by 
British cruissers) ; the sale of the niches built by him in 
the cemetery; the profit derived from the cleaning of the 
privies of the city (which it is affirmed by many, belonged 
to him) ; the several monopolies he carried on trough Bri- 
gadier Paniagua, and Marquis Esteva. 

I will not mention the details of the conspiracy of color- 
ed people which he professed to have discovered, and 
which some suspect to have been a sham affair; nor will I 
describe the dreadful tortures inflicted upon a great num- 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. Ill 

ber of innocent men, among whom was the celebrated Pla- 
cido, a Poet who was shot and who will cause the memory 
of O'Donnell to be execrated by future generations. Fina- 
lly, I will postpone for my purely descriptive letters the 
account of another ridiculous deed to which the burlesque 
name of "Milk-Punch Battle" (Batalla del Punche de le- 
che) was given, and will end the chapter on this General 
by acquainting you with a fact not generally known about 
his wife. 

There was on the first floor of the Palace a room where 
all the empty bottles used by Captain Generals during 
many years had been kept ; and as nobody ever thought 
of appropriating these articles, their number was always 
increasing, until Sefiora Dofia Manuela, O'Donnell's wife, 
considered it expedient to put a stop to this endless accu- 
mulation. She, perhaps, considered her husband the law- 
ful heir of all his predecessors, and therefore caused all 
the bottles to be carefully counted under her own eyes, 
and had the good fortune to sell them at a pretty good 
price. It is possible, however, that, on her arrival at 
Spain, she secured from those predecessors, who are still 
living, the confirmation of her title to the proceeds from 
the sale of the bottles. It is said that the subsequent re- 
sidence of Cafiedo at Havana caused the room to become 
full again, this General having been very fond of wines — 
but I have not been able to ascertain the truth of the 
assertion. 



LETTER XXI. 

Roncali — His gloomy reception — His expeditious manner of decid- 
ing law-suits — The compulsory agreements — An extraordi- 
nary invention to extort a dower — Roncali's mendacity — He 
falls from his horse — His policy — His fears as compared with 
Concha's — Canedo — The Marquis de la Pezuela. 



The entrance of General Roncali, Count of Alcoy, upon 
the Government of Cuba, took place under very unpro- 
pitious circumstances. O'Donnell did not conceal the 
sorrow produced by the unpleasant misfortune of being 
removed from a golden stream before becoming satiated. 
A few days before the arrival of Roncali, he retired to 
the Qainta (country-seat for Captain Generals near Hava- 
na), carrying with him even the most trifling pieces of 
furniture and every household article. The new Gover- 
nor's family were received by O'Donnell with insulting 
coolness; and the first night, they found themselves with- 
out a single bed to sleep upon. 

The most noteworthy feature of Roncali's administra- 
tion was the new method he established in order to sup- 
pres all judicial proceedings. Being aware of the nu- 
merous law-suits that existed in Havana, he devised an 
easy way of working this inexhaustible mine for his own 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 113 

advantage. The discovery, indeed, had already been 
made by O'Donnell ; but the latter did not know how to 
follow the vein he had struck. Roncali at once perceived 
the enormous power with which he was invested, and 
taking every possible advantage of it, he sometimes com- 
pelled parties who appeared before him, when acting in 
the capacity of a Judge, to sign papers containing false- 
hoods. Will you consider this improbable 1 In New 
York, indeed, the people would have undoubtedly kick- 
ed such a Judge out of the Court ; but matters are quite 
different in Havana, and if such an attempt had been 
made, the Captain General would have caused every one 
of the mob to be shot. 

I will describe to you one of these sessions. The Cadi 
used to sit in a very easy chair, the only one in the room, 
and persons going to transact business there, had to stand 
up all the time, while our Mandarin was comfortably lod- 
ged, holding usually a segar in his mouth. One of the 
Judges of the Superior Court (Audiencia Pretorial), Zar- 
co, of whom 1 have already spoken, upon going to take 
leave of him, before departing for Spain, "was treated in the 
same manner, after being kept waiting for a long time in 
the antechamber. "I wish you a happy voyage," was the 
General's answer, without taking the trouble even to rise 
from his chair. The news of this incident spread with 
the rapidity of an electric spark through the whole ante- 
chamber, and was received with general merriment, 
as the object of the rebuff was a person whom nobody 
esteemed. A General, dressed in full costume, covered 
with crosses and bending with years ( he was over 

seventy), received a similar rebuff. The ladies but it 

is sufficient to say that there was only one seat in the 
room, and that its occupant was never willing to resign it. 

A constable (alguacil) was stationed at the door with a 
5* 



114 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

list of names in his hand, from which he called out the 
plaintiff and defendant, who then entered the room. The 
first named briefly related his case and the latter replied, 
after which Roncali decided on the spot, and said : " Go 
and draw up the act. " They went out to the hall, and 
after the case was compendiously written, as well as the 
defendant's reply, the words "they agreed upon," were 
added, and the decision set down. The plaintiff then paid 
all the costs, which was the leading object, and the suit 
was ended. The decision appeared to be not a true jud- 
gement of the case, but an arrangement or compromise 
between the parties. Those who refused to sign such a 
falsehood were taken again by the clerk before the Cap- 
tain General, who used to say; "Go, go and sign it." No- 
body dared to remonstrate ; all obeyed. Is not this hum- 
ble submissiveness sufficient of itself to show a degree of 
despotic power which cannot be experienced in Turkey? 

1 will relate an instance of this manner of deciding which 
has the peculiarity that one of the sufferers is now living 
in New York. The history is rather long, but I think 
that the large amount of information it furnishes, war- 
rants its recital. 

The General's wife brought with her from Spain a 
servant girl, who married shortly after her arrival. She 
gave her as a dower an office for her husband, who was 
therefore created Captain of the ward of Penalver, in the 
city of Havana. The object was to enable the new Cap- 
tain to derive the greatest possible advantage from his 
office. He knew what he was about, and had scarcely 
sat down in his office for the first time, when he began to 
impose fines for violations of the police regulations. As 
it will be seen, some of these violations were falsely sup- 
posed, in order to get money, because one third of the 
fines belonged to him. 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 115 

A lawyer, whom I do not name at his request, was 
summoned to pay eight dollars fine "on account of his 
groom having run when taking the horses to bathe." The 
groom, being brought before the Captain, denied the char- 
ge, telling him at the same time that it was wholly false : 
The appearances were all in favor of the groom's state- 
ments, because otherwise both he and the horses should 
have been taken to the station house. A* (as we will desig- 
nate the lawyer), then remarked that he would not sub- 
mit to such an i?npositio?i, as he relied on the word of his 
groom ; that the officer, according to law, was held to 
prove the charge by witnesses; and that he was not obliged 
to the payment because the officer himself confessed that 
there were no witnesses at all. 

The Captain seemed to acknowledge these reasons, and 
retired apparently satisfied ; but came two days after- 
wards, and showed to A. # an order from the Captain 
General which read thus : "If the lawyer who is the sub- 
ject of the above report is the officer of the same name, 
(he was), he is hereby summoned to pay fifty dollars fine; 
and if he is any other person, sixteen, as a penalty for the 
words he has uttered." He replied: "How is this ? Do 
they condemn me without a hearing V and made up his 
mind to go and see Roncali immediately.. He changed 
his mind afterwards, and paid the fifty dollars, which, 
according to a statement published in the Gaceta, were 
applied to a charitable institution. He considered all ap- 
peal useless when he ascertained the circumstances attend- 
ing the appointment of the officer. Other persons (one 
was the Marquis of Aguas Claras), who were also fined 
by the same Judge on the same false ground, and who 
probably were ignorant of the aforesaid circumstance 
fthat of the dowry), being unwilling to submit to such 
barefaced extortion, went to see Roncali, hoping to obtain 



116 LETTERS FllOM CUBA. 

redress. The rascal despot showed himself highly en- 
raged, and uttering very hard words, ordered them to 
pay the fine forthwith. 

You may easily imagine that it was necessary to fulfil 
the promise and to realize the amount offered to the ser- 
vant girl. Many of the inhabitants of the ward of Pe- 
Fialver had, therefore, the pleasure of contributing a fair 
allowance to the dowry of Mrs. Roncali's chambermaid, 
though they had not calculated upon that unexpected 
taxation. 

The silence of the lawyer, and the quietness with which 
he submitted to such despotic plunder, seemed something 
strange to Roncali. Perhaps he feared, his vengeance, 
and wished to gain his friendship, as may be easily 
imagined from the facts I am going to relate. 

Over eighteen months had elapsed since the previous 
occurrences. The lawyer was one day obliged to appear 
before the Captain General as Attorney for a poor man, 
who, on account of being paralytic, was prevented from 
going personally. He had been sued by a grocer in order 
to make him pay for provisions furnished. The lawyer 
acknowledged the debt, but alleged several facts which 
were communicated to him by his client, and which, as 
he afterwards ascertained, were not very correct. The 
plaintiff contradicted them, but Roncali did not pay any 
attention to his words, and believing all that the lawyer 
said, asked him (the lawyer), showing evidences of par- 
tiality in his favor, and marks of strong affection, what he 
proposed as a settlement of the question. A.* offered a 
compromise, whereupon the General, without allowing 
the grocer to speak, ordered the act to be drawn up on 
those terms, in spite of all the remonstrances of the op- 
posite party. 

The lawyer was in the act of leaving the room when 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 117 

Rcmcali called him, and said in an exceedingly familiar 
manner : "Mr. A.*, if you have been once fined, I have 
showed you to-day that I appreciate you as you deserve. 
I have also had the pleasure of given a favorable report 
to the Supreme government about the proposal you have 
made." He alluded to a proposal addressed long before 
to Madrid by A.*, and it was afterwards ascertained that 
no such report was ever given. "Had your Excellency," 
replied the lawyer, "heard me, I should not have been 
fined." Roncali, on hearing this just charge, returned 
these words : "And did you come to see me in order to 
be heard ?"-" Certainly, I did not," answered A. # think- 
ing that it was not only useless, but even dangerous to 
add : "It was your Excellency's duty to call and hear me 
before deciding the question. As your Excellency's de- 
termination, moreover, was to endow your wife's cham- 
bermaid, I should have been treated like the Marquis 
of Aguas Claras and others." 

Count de Alcoy had the misfortune to fall from his horse 
and break one of his arms. The Surgeons were prevent- 
ed from performing the operation properly, as he bade 
them not to proceed, being unable to bear the pain longer. 

This would seem rather curious m the biography of a 
courageous soldier. Historians will, therefore, omit, and 
even deny it, if necessary. I could produce, however, as 
witnesses Doctors Gutierrez and Valle: to the first of 
whom he said, pronouncing at the same time an oath, 
forced out by the pain, "You are a brute." 

I have given these details in order to introduce the 
following remarkable fact. On the event of the fall and 
its further consequences being known, much sympathy was 
manifested towards the General ; but many sy7npathizers 
hoped, that is, had the desire that it would be neces- 
sary to cut off his arm, or at least that it would become 
drv and useless in after life. 



118 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

This shows the hatred of the Cuban people to the 
government represented by Captain Generals, because 
Roncali had no personal enemies ; and impartial histo- 
rians will speak of him in favorable terms. Being free from 
the faint-hearted fears, as well as the blood-thirsty dispo- 
sition of Concha, he had the talent to understand the politi- 
cal state of the Island much better than the latter, and to 
restore order without recurring to violent measures. It is 
said that he every day received denunciations against 
many persons suspected of being filibusters ; and that 
being one evening urged by the Counsellor of war Arrae- 
ro, who was considered a very stupid man, to try all those 
denounced, he took the list in which their names were 
written, and burnt it up before all the persons forming the 
circle. 

Nevertheless, he became seriously alarmed at the news 
of the landing of Lopez at Cardenas, left the capital with- 
out garrison, sent every hour commands and countermands, 
and gave strong proofs of an" extaordinary dread. The 
cause of this was that he, on the one hand, knew and fear- 
ed his adversary, and on the other, thought that his gene- 
rous undertaking would meet with the support of the in- 
habitants, who were admirers of Lopez, and hated the 
colonial system of government in Cuba. Greater alarm 
and more serious fears were entertained by Concha when 
that galant hero came again to Playitas, according to the 
opinion of those who lived near both on those different oc- 
casions. It is said that the latter was then seized by such 
terror that in a moment of trouble he exclaimed, almost 
weeping, that when he left Madrid an idea got hold of his 
mind that he was going to be the last Spanish Governor 
of Havana. Some persons affirm, I do not know with 
what degree of certainty, that from the landing of the ex- 
pedition till the seizure of Lopez, he was scarcely ever 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 119 

seen eating or sleeping.' Roncali's fears were only tem- 
porary, but those of Concha are perpetual : the former 
might have been produced by surprise, but the latter 
evince something like cowardice. 

General Concha, who as you are aware, succeeded 
Roncali in the command, made his appearance like a con- 
queror : he expected to find the Island in a complete state 
of revolt, and on descrying its shores, he anticipated a fight 
before getting a foothold on land. The government of 
Madrid had increased his salary from about twenty- 
thousand dollars yearly, 'to fifty, to compensate for certain 
fees which his predecessors had enjoyed besides their sa- 
lary, and which he renounced. It was rumored that for 
this large increase they took into consideration what the 
slave trade, which he earnestly promised to stop, had net- 
ted to former Governors; but as we all know that such has 
not been the case, an opportunity was afforded him of 
becoming rich sooner than others. 

Cariedo, the foolish and corrupt General who came 
after Concha, made himself odious on account of his bad 
feelings against the Creoles, and above all, by committing 
that hideous act of cruelty on the patriots named Cristo 
and Gonzalez, who having been sentenced to suffer death 
by the garrote, were taken to the scaffold, though he had 
resolved, in consequence perhaps of a royal order, to com- 
mute the punishment the day before the execution was 
going to take place, as is proved by the fact that the 
decree had been printed on the evening of that day. He 
thought to enjoy the anguish of the victims, but was 
greatly disappointed as they walked to the spot of the 
execution with calmness and dignity. 

He was followed by the Marquis Pez.uela, a prudent 
and truly courageous gentleman, who allowed liberty to 
breathe to those Creoles who were unjustly suspected of 



120 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

fllibusterism. He quickly perceived that the number of 
men of resolution was very much reduced, and that 
the fears of his predecessors and of the Spaniards were 
groundless. For this reason, he, like Roncali, paid no 
attention to vile informers, and discontinued the persecu- 
tions carried on by former Governors. 

This honorable course procured for him the hatred of 
the natives of old Spain, who showed their uneasiness in 
several ways, and professed to feel great joy when his 
successor arrived. Concha's efforts are always directed 
to inculcate in the mind of the government of the Metro- 
polis the idea that he is quenching a volcano : his dreams 
are of conspiracies, murders, and filibusters. He has not 
judgement and courage enough to perceive that although 
the whole people of Cuba are averse to the Spanish rule, 
few men have, as yet, seriously endeavored to over- 
throw it. 



LETTER XXII. 

General Commanders or. Governors of the Departments — General 
Lorenzo's pronunciamiento — P. Valiente — Superintendent 
Pinillos, Count of Villanueva — His character — Large present 
made to him — His proteges — Colonel Romay — Pinillos' 
devotedness to Christina — Bishops — Espada — Fleix y Solans — 
Mendo — A new kind of piracy. 

The system of government in Cuba being rather mili- 
tary, the General Commanders, or Governors of the 
Departments, are next in rank to the Captain General. 
They are invested in their respective districts with almost 
the same powers that he is, though they are his subordi- 
nates in their military capacity. Many questions, how- 
ever, have arisen on several occasions as to their respec- 
tive jurisdictions. 

One of these chiefs, Don Manuel Lorenzo, undertook a 
movement in favor of liberal principles, in the year 
eighteen hundred and thirty six, which would have 
entirely changed the political regime of Cuba, and allowed 
her to participate of the freedom enjoyed in the Peninsula. 
His plan extended even to arming the people order to 
defeat the troops sent against him by Tacon; but through 
the private advice of persons who feared the consequences, 
be was induced to give up his enterprise. The most extra- 
ordinary thing in the whole affair, is that one of those who 
influenced him to this disgraceful retrocession was the 

6 



122 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

same Porfhio Valiente, who acted as Secretary of the 
Cuban Junta, and who is now living in New York. The 
Spanish writer Pezuela praises him for his services to the 
Metropolis on that occasion, for which he, in feet, obtained 
a suitable reward from the government. He will now 
receive one yet more considerable, which he deserves, for 
having contributed together with others to the failure 
of the recently projected expedition. 

The office of highest impo7tance after that of Governor 
of a Department, is that of Commander of the Apostade- 
ro (Naval Station). The person appointed to such a 
place has also a palace, s.nd many important functions are 
entrusted to his care. They were formerly very much 
respected, but now, owing to the almost dictatorial powers 
of Captain Generals, no satellite can shine by the side of 
those radiant planets, no matter what degree of brilliancy 
it may have had before. That marine officer is in many 
respects under his jurisdiction. 

Next comes in importance the office of Superintendente 
(Director of Finances), the business of whom is now trans- 
acted by the Captain Generals, having previously been 
under the charge of the Intendentcs. The only person 
who has been able to keep this office for any considerable 
length of time, was Don Claudio Martinez de Pinillos, 
who after the lapse of a few years bought for his father 
the title of Count of Villanueva, knowing that, being his 
eldest son, he should some day inherit it. 

Don Claudio was a Creole : his father was a Spanish 
shojrkeeper, and his mother a native of Cuba, both having 
been born in a very humble condition. I know the state- 
ments of his biographer, and the heraldry bought by Pi- 
nillos, assert the contrary ; but notwithstanding them, the 
facts are notorious. 

He was the first who disclosed the secrets of Cuba to 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 123 

the Metropolis, affording her a good opportunity of in- 
creasing the revenues derived from the Island. This gave 
rise to manifold accusations of bad patriotism with which 
he has been charged by the Habaneros, and also earned 
for him all the high rewards and honors which the Court 
of Madrid so liberally confered upon him. 

Some affirm, and others deny, that he possessed great 
financial abilities. His general learning was, however, so 
limited, that having heard, for the first time in the year 
eighteen hundred and twenty seven, a person speaking of 
artesian wells, he laughed in his face, and denied the 
possibility of the water rising from the interior to the 
earth's surface. His pride was so great that he was un- 
willing to confess himself inferior to any one in any branch, 
even in physics, which he had never studied. 

He would descend, however, from his haughty posi- 
tion whenever his pecuniary interests required it, and I 
have been told of an anecdote which is highly characte- 
ristic 

The present Count of Santovenia had been abetted by 
Pinillos during the judicial proceedings which were esta- 
blished against him for having forged, as it is generally 
believed, the will of an uncle of his. The service, it seems, 
was very valuable, for as soon as the Count obtained a 
favorable decision, he sent to Senor Superintendent the 
voucher of an old credit of many thousand dollars which 
the deceased Count had against him. The Notary's clerk 
who placed the deed in the hands of Pinillos, was at first 
received by him with that insolent haughtiness he was 
accustomed to use towards all humble persons; but on 
ascertaining, after a rapid perusal of the document, its 
nature, he overflowed with an ignoble gladness, and not 
only invited the clerk to take a seat, but also shook him 
warmly by the hand, and made several friendly promises. 



124 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

He then left his desk, sent word to the Notary of his 
judicature telling him that he was not going to sign any 
more decrees on that day ; dispatched a message to Santo- 
venia, inviting him to dine, and with the wellcomed do- 
cument in his hand, ran to his wife's room to give her the 
happy news. 

He is charged with having patronized only those per- 
sons who could be useful to him, or those by whom he 
was flattered, having never rewarded honesty or merit. 
He appointed to the office of Inspector in the Military 
Hospital, a Colonel Romay, whose abjectness was almost 
incredible. He used to play the role of a horse to Pini- 
Uos' son, taking him upon his shoulders and carrying him 
through the lobbies before a numerous assemblage of per- 
sons, to the great discredit of his age. He was also in 
the habit of trading publicly with the provisions of the 
Hospital, depriving the patients of a large part of their 
allowances. Tacon could not bear the continuation of a 
crime against the health and even life of the soldiers, and 
therefore discharged that unworthy officer, in spite of the 
efforts made by Pinillos to keep him in the place, though 
well aware of the frauds he committed. 

This system gained for him a great number of flat 
terers, who still praise his memory and respect him, in 
compensation for undeserved patronage received. Much 
was said formerly against his honesty, and great riches 
were ascribed to him, as it was known that he had em- 
barked in several profitable enterprises, though he was 
always careful of concealing his name. He must have de- 
rived immense gains from these speculations, and more 
particularly from the two following :— the importation of 
pesetas sevillanas (twenty cent pieces coined at Seville), by 
which he, and a partner named Arrieta, made a nett profit 
of five thousand dollars monthly; and the monopoly of 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 125 

remittances of money to Spain, which yielded far more 
considerably. His widow, however, seems to be compa- 
ratively poor, and one of the explanations offered for this, 
is that he spent large amounts of money at Madrid, Driving 
Olivan and other members of Congress and Ministers in 
order to obtain the removal of General Tacon, who had 
humbled his pride by threatening that he would imprison 
and send him to Spain. 

Christina took great advantage of the propensity of 
Pinillos to please all persons of high standing. He jea- 
lously promoted the interests and scandalous enterprizes 
which that covetous lady undertook, injuring the treasure 
of the Nation, and also those of private persons. The 
salary of the Queen dowager, amounting to thirteen 
thousand dollars monthly, was paid before any other 
item by the treasury of Havana, and it is believed that 
he, after losing all hopes of enjoying any longer the afore- 
said contract of remitting money to Spain, exerted his in- 
fluence to secure it to her. Christina was allowed a com- 
pensation of eighteen per cent, when in fact, instead of 
incurring any loss, she gained at least this percentage, and 
sometimes much more by purchasing bills of exchange 
on London. Thus Pinillos lost his pittance, and knowing 
that it could not be avoided, he endeavored to take ad- 
vantage of the misfortune, yielding with apparent pleasure 
to what he could not prevent. 

The Bishop of Havana and the Archbishop of Santiago 
de Cuba are the next two highest personages. Both ful- 
fill the same duties, "their districts being two dioceses, 
though I have met with no person who has been able to 
explain to me why that of Santiago is styled archbishopric 
and not bishopric, like that of Havana. Appeals from 
the decisions of the Bishop are decided by the Archbishop, 
and viceversa, which will seem to you very singular. 



126 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

The residents of Havana praise the memory of Don 
Juan Jose Diaz de Espada y Landa, one of their former 
Bishops, who did a vast amount of good to the country, 
promoting public instruction, relieving needy persons &c. 
He is sometimes charged by some with not having paid 
proper attention to the morality of clergymen-, and with 
not having been very austere in his private life. The 
Santiagueros (inhabitants of Santiago de Cuba) are on the 
other hand very displeased with their present prelate 
whom they represent as a fanatic and ignorant friar. He 
has also his admirers, perhaps among the persons belong- 
ing to his party, as he is considered a red Spaniard. Both 
these Priests formerly possessed large incomes ; but some 
years ago the government wrested them from their hands, 
and now give them a salary. 

The present Bishop of Havana, Don Francisco Fleix y 
Solans, is indebted to Christina for the office he fills, as he 
was one of the few individuals concerned in her secret 
marriage with Munoz, now Duke of Rianzares. He is a 
good looking, kind and amiable person, and it is perhaps 
on this account that the friendship of a certain widow 
lady towards him is wickedly construed. Many accuse 
him of being a violent politician, who does not forget the 
claims of his party, even in spiritual concerns ; and being 
a Catalonian, instead of taking proper care of the sheep 
of his flock, he has sent to Catalonia for several young 
clergymen among whom he distributes all the ecclesias- 
tical benefits at his command. 

There was some years ago a pro tempore Bishop in 
Havana, called Mendo, who committed a kind of piracy 
which is worth relating, not only on account of its novelty, 
but because it affords a new proof of the hopes a people 
may entertain whenever their officers are not bound by a 
common interest with them. This respectable ecclesiastic, 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 127 

born in Asturias, was in the habit of sending to his coun- 
try the money left by the dead in orcbr to have a certain 
number of masses celebrated in favor of their souls ; and 
as in Havana the price paid for each mass is four times 
as great as in Spain, it being twenty-five cents in the lat- 
ter, and one dollar in the former place, the honest and 
pious Mendo pocketed seventy-five per cent of all the 
money left for that purpose without damaging the souls 
of the deceased, because the same number of masses were 
celebrated, and a help was thus tendered to the poor 
clergymen of Asturias, though those of Cuba were de- 
prived of the benefit. It is true that the Bishop, not 
being the heir, had no right to appropriate for himself the 
balance; and it is also consistent with the Roman Catho- 
lic doctrine, that, had he spent all the money in Asturias, 
instead of pocketing three quarters of it, the testator's 
soul would have been benefited. It is, therefore, very 
likely that in Sefior Mendo's opinion, ten masses would 
produce as much effect in the way of drawing souls out 
of the Purgatory, as forty. 



LETTER XXIII. 

Judicial system — Legislative authority — Powerful motives the 
Judges have for arbitrary judicial despotism — A monstrous 
mixture of powers — A multiform jurisprudence — Enormous 
privileges of the Exchequer. 

I should be obliged to write a large volume, and make 
many preliminary investigations, in order to convey to you 
a perfect idea of the judicial system of this Island. T can- 
not, therefore, give you a full and complete information 
about it ; but you may rely that whatever I may transmit 
to you will be exact, and I believe, conclusive. 

According to the Spanish Constitution now in force, 
the only legal source of Legislation, is in the united con- 
currence of the Cortes and the Queen; but as the Cubans 
are not allowed to send deputies to that Assembly, the 
wants of the Colony are not ascertained in a legal man- 
ner, but only through the interested reports of the em- 
ployes. In fact, the Ministers, at the suggestion of the 
Captain General, make all the laws, calling them reales 
ordenes (royal orders). This functionary sometimes does 
not execute the laws that are communicated to him ; 
and even repeals them if he thinks it convenient, enacting 
simultaneously an ordinance entirely oppossed to them, 
though subject to the approval of the Cabinet, as is stated 
in a final clause. 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 129 

This legislative authority has been usurped by the Au- 
diencia also. Under the unpretending, title of Autos acor- 
dados (judicial decrees), that Court has enacted on seve- 
ral occasions some rules of procedure, which are in fact 
^true laws, as they modify, and in many cases abrogate 
those which had been established, as I could prove with 
more than one instance. As these Magistrates assume 
the power of amending and even of abrogating the laws, 
it must not be expected that they should either respect 
them, or be careful or cautious in their strict application ; 
and this is less to be expected when we consider that the 
mode of interpreting is almost arbitrary, for they fre- 
quently apply a law in a case which is evidently beyond 
its literal provisions and in other circumstances they dis- 
regard the law that embraces the case in question. 

If we also consider that the institution of the Jury is 
unknown, and that Judges are not required to state the 
law or royal order on which their decisions are founded, 
a pretty good idea may be formed of the vast field open 
for arbitrariness. "The discrection of a Judge," as a dis- 
tinguished Jurist has said, "is the law of tyrants. It is 
always unknown; it is different in different men ; it depends 
upon the constitution, temper and passions of the Judge. 
In the best it is oftentimes caprice ; in the worst it is 
every vice, folly and passion to which human nature is 
liable." 

In my opinion, the judicial despotism in Cuba is by no 
means less than the political. It is a wonder that a people 
living under laws which afford no guarantees to property, 
should entertain such a disposition to acquire it. To any 
honorable, rightminded Judge, the moral responsibility 
which weighs on him would be a terrible load : I say 
moral, because there is no legal one, nor can it exist for 
a double reason, firstly because the legal grounds for the 



130 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

decisions are not stated, and secondly, on account of the 
numberless contradictions in the several codes and the 
disorder which prevails in their arrangement. A Spanish 
clergyman, Martinez Marina, has written a work to show 
that, in one single code, the most incredible errors exist. 
That of the Indies is so irregular and incomplete, that it 
would not be possible to decide the simplest law-suit by 
it, and there is no exaggeration in stating that not a 
hundreth part of the laws therein contained are applicable 
to the Island of Cuba. The government at Madrid has 
recently appointed a Committee to revise it, instead of 
forming a new one. Seventeen years ago another Com- 
mittee was chosen in Havana for the same object, but we 
have seen nothing done. 

The proceedings that ancient laws established to afford 
facilities to parties to prove their innocence, allowing them 
time enough to furnish their proofs, have disappeared with 
a single pen-stroke of the Audiencia. This tribunal has 
ordered them to be presented in so short a period that the 
defendant, who is besides imprisoned, is generally pre- 
vented from doing it in a proper manner. 

I think that any honest person must be very reluctant 
to accept the office of Judge under a system which re- 
quires him openly to violate the laws ; and if he should 
accept it, it would be very difficult to leave the office 
without having yielded in some way to the inducements 
offered for abusing his power. 

To those acquainted with the doings of the Cuban tri- 
bunals, the accounts given of their enormities would not 
be surprising, but the ignorant will not fail to believe, as 
I did while in the States, that these reports are exagge- 
rated, and will deny the possibility of such things taking 
place as they actually do here every day. I will only 
relate to you an occurrence in one of the principal courts. 



LETTESS FROM CUBA. 131 

An offer amounting to a considerable sum, was once 
made to a Judge, in order to have a suit unjustly decided 
by him, but he declined it. The party, however, distri- 
buted the same amount of money among the several 
•Magistrates of the Superior Court and obtained a rever- 
sal of the decision of the Judge. Up to this time, this 
Judge had never deviated from the paths of virtue, but 
henceforth he resolved to follow their example, and at 
length returned to Spain loaded with the spoils of his 
career. Such was Fernandez Villaverde : he became the 
worst of Judges, having once been the best. 

Thus the Captain General unites in his person the legis- 
lative, judicial and executive powers ; and the Audiencia 
the two first named, both being at the same time Judges 
not only of the right but of the facts also. Did you ever 
dream that such a government existed in so close a proxi- 
mity to our shores 1 

I will notice other remarkable peculiarities. There 
are on the Island two independent Audiencias ; and as 
both establish rules of their own, they may soon be ex- 
pected to have two systems of jurisprudence not only 
different from each other, but also contrary in details and 
rules, as is already the case in several particulars. This 
does not, however, seem strange in the Island, as the 
legal proceedings vary with the fueros of the parties, 
that is, with the privileges enjoyed by the different classes. 
Those of the Exchequer are most enormous, and. one of 
them is as follows : if a person is a creditor to it for five 
hundred dollars, and a debtor of six hundred, he cannot 
deduct that amount from his credit, but has to pay the 
six hundred dollars, and wait until the government can 
or will settle the debt. 

As the government at Madrid does not inquire into the 
morality or efficiency of the Candidates for Judgeships in 



132 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

the Colonies, the persons chosen are commonly corrupt 
and ignorant. In fact, those who apply for these offices are 
parties, who by their notorious stupidity have never had 
a single law-suit entrusted to them, or have not been able 
to make a living in their own country, and come to Cuba 
to decide upon the lives and properties of the Creoles. 
This is very often the case with alcaldes may ores, oidores 
and auditor es ; and as all those officers come with the sole 
view of making a fortune, whatever means present them- 
selves are considered good by them. 

I could produce numberless instances of this stupidity 
and immorality ; but one will suffice. One of the Judges 
in the Audiencia, who was at the same time intrusted with 
the property of deceased persons leaving an absent heir, 
went to the house of a Spanish merchant named Cariaga, 
who had just died. A Notary accompanied him, and also 
one of his brothers who had no business to perform, as he 
was not a law-officer ; but it had been said that the dead 
had left a large amount of money in cash and the two 
wolf-brothers went to share the spoils. They reached the 
house, asked for the key of the safe and having opened it, 
began to make heaps of ounces and to count them. The 
Judge's brother every little while introduced his hand 
into his pocket feigning to take out a paper-segar, but 
instead of the pocket becoming lighter it was growing 
heavier. 

One of the persons present who thought himself entitled 
to a part of the deceased's property, was frightened at 
such proceedings, and went immediately for his Coun- 
sellor. On returning with him, the Judge looked at them 
both angrily, and ordered everybody out of the room, ex- 
cept his brother and the Notary. To this the lawyer did 
not dare to reply. A sealed paper was afterwards found, 
which, by its external appearance seemed to be a will. 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 133 

This the Judge broke open, not knowing, undoubtedly, 
the many requisites prescribed by law to perform this 
operation. 

Finally, after having told the Notary to take a memo- 
randum of the money that they said was found, he locked 
up the safe and sent it to his own house. He also put in 
his pocket all the promissory notes found. This Judge 
was afterwards tried ; but as nobody dared to accuse him, 
he was duly reinstalled in his office, notwithstanding 
the notoriety of this enormous transgression. 



LETTER XXIV. 

Departure from Havana — The sentinel — Coffee-house of Marte y 
Belona, where Castaneda was shot — The negroes at work — 
Calabazar — Tavern of No Pedro — A curious breakfast — 
The Captain de Partido — A bad road. 

I begin now, dear Charles, to speak of myself and my 
short travels through Cuba. You will not expect, I sup- 
pose, that I shall enter into any disquisitions on geology, 
astronomy or botany, as I have already stated that I only 
intend to communicate to you my own experience, and 
also what I consider worthy of notice or amusing in 
regard to the customs, habits and peculiarities of the 
Cubanos. 

Don Antonio being as fearful as myself that the vomito 
negro (yellow fever) would attack me, fitted me out as 
soon as he could, to go into the country. We had to lose 
one day, however, in obtaining passports. As I had ma- 
nifested a desire to ride in the volante, instead of going by 
railroad, in order to have a better opportunity of seeing 
the country, his son Joseito, the filibuster, came to the 
hotel before sunrise in the carriage to take me. I was 
already dressed : I had bought the night before, some 
colored linen coats and pantaloons, my jipijapa or Pana- 
ma straw hat, and a large bladder for the segars. The 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 135 

driver tied my trunk and valise behind the volante, and 
the travelling bag was left inside ; he then, hung the ma- 
chete around his waist, and taking hold of the reins of 
the three small horses that were attached to the vehicle, 
he stood by their side until we got in. Joseito then, 
grasped the long reins of the horse on the right side, gave 
a smart crack with the whip, and we started off at great 
speed. 

The streets were fortunately empty ; had they not been 
so, we should have run over several persons. We only 
met, at certain distances, with the sleepy serenos (watch- 
men) each with his long lance, pistol, and lantern ; and 
also several placeros (marketmen) who were mounted on 
the croups of their horses, having before them high heaps 
of vegetables. Some of them were singing at the top of 
their voices, while others kept up a lively conversation in 
stentorean tones, but were careful meanwhile to hurry 
their horses in order to get a good place in the market. 

On entering the arch which forms one of the gates of 
the city, called Puerto, de la Muralla the sentinel hailed 
the driver, pointing the end of his bayonet at the horses' 
breasts. I was afraid that the soldier, who judging from 
his appearance was very much incensed, would kill the 
poor animals ; but I afterwards learned that he only 
wished to order — though in a rather energetic manner — 
the volante to proceed very slowly. I was then told that 
the monteros, who come in with loads of produce, are 
obliged to alight from their horses, in order to prevent 
them from running disrespectfully before the military 
authority. We then, entered upon the road called Calza- 
da del Monte, among a large number of marketmen, 
cartmen and muleteers, who were going towards the 
city, the latter having bells hung to the neck of the hind- 
most mule. 



136 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

After a little while, we stopped to take a cup of coffee at 
the coffee-house of Marte y Belona, which beverage 
seemed to me very good at that early hour, after which 
we lighted our segars in a small brazier full of large 
burning coals in order to enjoy them during the trip. 

As this was the place where Castaneda was killed, we 
inquired for the same waiter who had had charge of the 
billiard table where he was playing at the time, and who, 
of course, witnessed the deed. He showed us the spot 
where he fell, and the blind through which the ball was 
shot. His statements show that there could scarcely have 
been nine feet from the barrels of the pistol to the place 
where Castaneda was. He stood with his back turned to 
the blind, leaning against the table and holding the cue in 
his hand. The pistol-shot was heard, the treacherous rogue 
groaned and fell on the table, and afterwards was drag- 
ged by his own weight to the ground. The waiter said 
that the owner of the establishment had sustained heavy 
damages on account of the numberless affidavits that had 
been taken from every waiter, and many other unneces- 
sary annoyances. 

"We then entered the volante again, and proceeded with 
greater speed on account of the less crowed state of the 
road. The ground was muddy, and we were very 
frequently bespattered by the feet of our own horses, as 
well as by those passing by our carriage. In a few mi- 
nutes we took a cross road begining at a place called Es- 
quina de Teja, half a league from the Palace of the Cap- 
tain General, and ascended the steep slope of Jesus del 
Monte, which was enough of itself to tire out the best 
animals. 

Small farms and orchards planted with vegetables were 
now seen. In one of them we perceived a row of twenty- 
two negroes with their bodies bent forward, resting with 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 137 

their left arm on a short stick of wood and having in the 
right hand a cutlass with which they were cutting the 
grass. Every little while one of them would raise him- 
self upright showing symptoms of feeling pain in the 
waist; but he would soon bend his body again, as the ne- 
gro overseer (contramayoral), who provided with a 
whip, was watching over them without working, shouted 
from time to time, "Hurry up!" — "Move your hands !" 
(Arrea ! — -Mcnea las manos ! ) 

Before arriving at the village of Calsbazar, the Captain 
presented himself, and ordered the carriage to stop in 
order to examine our passes. He seemed to regret that 
there was no fault to be found, and that he could not, 
therefore, exact any fine. 

It was about eight o'clock, and as I had manifested a 
desire to see an inn kept by Catalonians, we stepped into 
one called "The tavern of No Pedro" — this No being an 
abreviation for Senor. The horses were sweating pro- 
fusely and looked rather tired on account of the difficulty 
of walking with a load of mud sticking to their feet. 
Joseito ordered the driver to bathe them and give them 
some corn, and also to rub their hoofs with brandy ; 
meanwhile they provided some breakfast for us. 

The tavern consisted of a room thirty or thirty-six feet 
long, by eighteen or twenty wide, in the fore part of 
which was the store. The windows were large swing- 
ing boards, opening outwards and hung from hinges 
placed in their upper end. They were kept open by 
means of long sticks resting against the face of the wall 
on each side of the window, and holding it raised. 
Long nails had been driven into the joists of the ceeling, 
about one foot apart, from which were hanging hams, 
shoes, baskets, ropes, bunches of onions and garlics, pack- 
saddles, panniers, &c. and the walls which had been 

6* 



138 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

whitewashed first, and soiled afterwards by spots of 
mud, were also ornamented with articles of this descrip- 
tion. 

In the middle of the room and in the direction of its 
length, there was a long, narrow pine table surrounded 
by benches without backs. It was covered with three or 
four small pieces of cloth placed along it, so full of stains 
of coffee, wine and different sauces, and covered with such 
swarms of flies contending for the remains, that no per- 
son could decide upon their original color. Our appetite 
was so great, however, that we ate without hesitation 
everything they gave us ! The breakfast consisted of 
three fried eggs for each, slices of fried ham, hash, the 
indispensable boiled rice (arroz bianco), coffee and milk, 
catalonian wine mixed with a large proportion of aguar- 
diente and water, and sour bread. 

Two cartmen with their clothes stained with mud, were 
also taking their breakfast by our side and speaking at 
great length of their recent hardships. Joseito inquired 
of them the state of the road to the Vuelta de Abajo, and 
they replied "that even the birds could not pass over it." 
I apprehended that we should be prevented from pro- 
ceeding, but my fellow-traveller brought the hyperbole 
down to its true value. "That means," said he, "that in 
some places it is rather bad." 

Two other guajiros, who had not lain aside their 
swords, were taking a cup of pure coffee at the other end 
of the table. They were listening to No Pedro's com- 
plaints about the behavior of the Captain of the district, 
who, over and above his monthly illegal instalment, 
had exacted from him a fine for having once neglected 
the patrol which it was his duty to attend every third 
day. This service must be equally devided among all 
the residents of each village, but those who oil the Cap- 



LETTERS FROM CUBA.. 139 

tain's palms are free from this trouble, and as their place 
is not filled by any hired substitute, and the patrol must 
be filled up, there are few to bear the load, and hence the 
abuse of calling for this service too frequently. The 
Captain alleged as a reason that it was only fair that he 
should get back the forty ounces (six hundred and eighty 
dollars) which he had given to the Secretary of the 
Captain G-eneral in order to be appointed to the office. 

J heard all this with a great desire for information ; Jo- 
seito had the patience to explain to me what I could not 
understand, using other Spanish words to make clear 
what he considered difficult for me. He also sprinkled 
his conversation with keen satires on the numberless enor- 
mities of the Spanish officers, and on the coarseness of 
our breakfast. He threw the blame upon me, as I did 
not wish to go to a good restaurant kept by Italians, 
which was near by ; but I wanted to learn a little about 
the Catalonians. 

My companion did not allow me to pay for our enter- 
tainement. He paid one dollar for both, which I consi- 
dered very cheap. This custom is very general in Cuba. 
On going to pay at a confectionary or saloon, I have been 
told more than once by the waiter "It is paid," without 
knowing who had done the favor, though 1 presume that 
some friend wished to surprise me. The guajiros, who 
were by us, contended for the pleasure of paying. 

The horses had a rest of over an hour, which they 
greatly needed, and then we departed. The road, which 
Joseito did not consider very bad, was almost impassable. 
Having left the high-road, we met with ditches made by 
the cart wheels of from twenty to thirty inches deep, in- 
to which the horses and wheels fell successively," and 
sometimes we had to get out of the carriage, plunging 
into the mud up to the ankle, in order to enable the carriage 



140 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

to extricate itself. We sometimes went up such steep 
hills that I thought the carriage must inevitably upset. 
The negro was all the time angrily scolding and hallo- 
ing the horses. 

At last we arrived at the plantation, having taken 
thirteen hours to travel fifteen leagues. We had not 
taken dinner, as all the taverns on the way were kept by 
Catalonians and we had tried them sufficiently at No 
Pedro's. We were tired, muddy, and hungry. The 
little horses had accomplished a great feat. 



LETTER XXY. 

Don Antonio's estate — The Creole woman Na Isabel — Blessings — 
The nightingale — Division of labor — The orange fields — 
Fishing — Don Calixto's plantation — The Patriarch — Ex- 
cursion to his plantation — Another tavern — Quarrell —-The 
Patriarch's estate — School for negro-boys — Negrophilism — 
Refaccionistas. 

We got out of the carriage at the door of the dwell- 
ing house (casa de vivienda). It was locked, but a negro 
brought the keys shortly afterwards. The steward's wife, 
Na Isabel, then came in, and directed a negro woman to 
put the house in order and fix our bedroom. She was a 
good-looking, stout and very smart young Creole woman 
of dark complexion and about thirty four or thirty six 
years old. She embraced Joseito, and said to me : "Good 
afternoon , gentleman " (Buenas tardes, caballero). I 
answered "Good afternoon" only, and these two words 
sufficed to let her know that I was a foreigner. Why is 
it that grown up foreigners who learn the Castilian ton- 
gue, the pronunciation of which seems to be so easy, 
can never acquire it perfectly 1 ? 

We went into the house, took a quick bath, and 
changed our clothes. On going out we sat down on the 
piazza. The bell of the plantation was rung at sun-set 



142 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

(oraciones). "We rose from our seats and took off our 
hats ; the negroes who were moving about on all sides 
stood still until the ringing of the last bell was heard. 
Joseito, then, put on his hat and bade us good evening 
(buenas noc7i.es J. The mayoral and all the other em- 
ployes of the plantation came to see us, and a large circle 
was soon formed. 

We suddenly saw a large number of slaves coming 
towards the house ; they all had their working cutlasses 
(machetes de calabozo), and appeared somewhat as if 
they were going to kill us. They came, however, to 
greet their young master, as they would have done their 
father. Every one of them bent his knee, and with his 
arms crossed on the breast, and his head uncovered, ask- 
ed for his master's benediction. This scene, which seem- 
ed to be familiar to all those present, affected me. Josei- 
to distributed his benedictions in an affectionate and 
solemn manner, and looked like the father of the family, 
though almost all the " sons " were older than he. He 
also gave them some scraps of tobacco for their pipes 
and I also divided a few segars and sixpences among 
some old negroes. 

All the workmen then went to proceed with their 
labors, and we sat down to a delicious supper, ending 
with a highly flavored cup of coffee, made with pure 
milk without water. Meanwhile we were amused with 
the pleasant conversation of Na Isabel, who inquired 
for the news of Havana, and related stories about the 
neighbors. She was unable to read, yet by her con- 
versation any person would have considered her a pretty 
learned woman. I had occasion afterwards to admire 
her liberal sentiments. 

They had placed two cots in the same room for Josei- 
to and myself, and before nine o'clock we were both 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 143 

soundly sleeping. The bedding consisted of two linen 
sheets and a very thin calico spread. At midnight I got 
up and opened a wooden window : the temperature was 
delightful, the sky glittering with stars, and a general 
silence reigned. I was going back to my bed when I 
heard the voice of a nightingale which had begun to sing 
so sweetly that I listened to it for a long time with delight, 
until, apprehending the effects of the night dew, I shut 
the window and returned to bed remembering that phrase 
of Bucke which says: "The nightingale sings most 
sweetly when it sings at night." 

I fell sleep again and so remained, until the sound of 
the bell rung at sunrise (Ave Maria) awakened us. 
After dressing, we went to one of the outbuildings where 
all the slaves were standing in a circle. The overseer 
and his negro assistant were in the centre, and partian la 
jente, that is, they formed the different gangs to execute 
their respective labors. The season of grinding the cane 
(la moliendaj was over, and during the dull season, 
(tiempo muertoj, as they call it, the labors are reduced to 
cutting down the weeds (chapeo) which grow among the 
cane and corn, wood-cutting, and preparing the ground 
for sowing more cane, &c. One of the slaves complained 
of headache; the steward felt his pulse and ordered him 
to go to the hospital. He also directed a negress who 
was far advanced in pregnancy not to go to the field. 

Some of the delicious pure coffee was then given to us, 
and after having lighted our segars, we went out on a 
morning walk. The ground was moist, and the grass 
covered with dew, so that our feet soon became wet ; 
but the balmy fragrance from all the plants and especially 
from the flowers in the garden, which was at the same 
time an orchard, afforded me a pleasure such as I thought 
I had never before experienced. 



144 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

Our attention was then called to the animals. A flock 
of over two hundred sheep was hurrying out of the fold, 
bleating; and as many hogs were issuing from the sty, 
and mingled with the sheep. Two young negroes, about 
thirteen or fourteen years old, were leading them to graze. 

An old negress came afterwards and opened the door 
of the poultry house from whence over three hundred 
chickens ran or flew. There were also many horses and 
mules, but none of them seemed to be any thing extra. 
The one belonging to the mayoral, which was kept in the 
rear of his house, was the best cared for on the estate. 

On our way back to the house, we entered an orange 
field, the trees of which were in full bearing, and recall- 
ed to my mind what we are told of the garden of the 
Hesperides. What a beautiful sight ! What, a delicious 
smell that of the orange flowers ! We climbed one of 
the trees and with Joseito's knife we cut two handsome 
bunches which we devoured on the spot. It was not till 
then that I became aware of the delightful relish of oran- 
ges, and it is certainly a 'good rule to eat each kind of 
fruit under the tree which produces it. How different 
are they from those we get at Fulton market ! 

Our indulgence in these savory fruits did not, however, 
prevent our doing due honor to a good breakfast of pork, 
mutton, eggs, bananas, &c. My appetite since we left the 
capital had become very much better. On seeing the 
great number of birds passing over our heads I suggest- 
ed to Joseito a hunting excursion, but he adviced me to 
delay it until late in the afternoon to avoid getting heated. 
The morning was pleasantly employed in fishing on the 
border of a rivulet, under the balmy shade of luxuriant 
trees, and eating different kinds of fruits, brought in a 
basket by a negro boy. 

Such was our daily occupation in the morning during a 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 145 

week. When the heat was unpleasant we retired to the 
house and amused ourselves reading Don Juan de la 
Cruz's Sainetes, or Torres' Dreams. At night a circle 
was formed on the piazza, and that was one of the oppor- 
tunities I had of learning much of what has been com- 
municated to you in my former letters about the rural 
districts of this Island. I had, however, to correct and 
modify the statements made by them as many errors and 
inaccuracies would have been transmitted if I had des- 
cribed things as represented by their great exaggerations. 

Some afternoons we visited on horseback the neighbor- 
ing plantations and thoroughly examined them. The 
owners of all them were at Havana, except one who had 
come out for a few days, to order some repairs to be 
made in his sugar house (casa de calderas). We were 
almost compelled to accept the invitation of Don Calisto 
(as I will call him) to spend the next day with him. We 
complied with his request, and there met with another 
planter who had also been invited and was an old friend 
of Joseito's family. He was on his way from Havana to 
his sugar plantation in the Vuelta de Abajo, eight leagues 
from Don Calisto's estate, where he resided. He was a 
single man, and lived alone, and my friend called him the 
'Patriarch. We all spent the day very pleasantly : Don 
Calisto was exceedingly attentive to us and among many 
other delicious things that he offered for our enjoyment, 
there was a good assortment of choice fruits. 

When the Patriarch learned that I was a Yankee tra- 
veller he invited me to go with him, thus affording me a 
good opportunity of improving my knowledge of the 
country. I was obliged to yield to his request notwith- 
standing the opposition manifested by Joseito, but I was 
aware that he had some business to transact in Havana* 
and I availed myself of this occasion to let him go. We 
7 



146 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

agreed to start the next day, and the Patriarch came that 
night to our residence accompanied by a negro servant. 
Both were on horseback, and in the pannier of the negro's 
horse, his master's valise and a fe\v parcels of articles 
bought in Havana had been placed. Joseito gave me the 
best horse he had, and the Patriarch and myself started 
shortly after sunrise preceeded by his slave who guided 
us through the bad places and showed the best parts of 
the road. 

On the way we had to take our breakfast again in an- 
other tavern kept by Catalonians like that of the Calaba- 
zar, though rather poorer and, if possible, still more dirty. 
We witnessed there a warm quarrel between a negro 
and the innkeeper. As far as we understood, the former 
had offered an arroba (twenty-five pounds) of brown 
sugar for sale, and the latter had only given him one real, 
(twelve and a half cents) for it. The negro was utter- 
ing high words and greatly insulting him; but the Cata- 
lonian, fearing that we should become acquainted with 
the cause of the quarrel, bore every thing with an asto- 
nishing patience and soothed and caressed his provoker, 
but without showing any disposition to pay him the other 
real he demanded. Among many insulting and con- 
temptuous words, the negro pronounced in a loud tone 
of voice and with a marked emphasis the word Catalan / 
as if he considered that epithet the worst of all possible 
insults. 

Shortly after noon, we arrived at the sugar plantation, 
and I perceived at once that it was quite different from 
that of Joseito. Although its owner lived all the time on 
it, he had entirely disregarded his own comfort. There 
were no broods of animals whatever, and neither vegeta- 
bles nor fruits could be found on the estate. His only 
aim seemed to have been the manufacturing of as much 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 147 

sugar as could be forced out of his plantation, and he was 
in the habit of buying everything he needed just as if he 
was living in the city. There was not a single milch-cow 
on the estate ! 

My host is a middle-aged man : he observed a regular 
methodical life, and performed the business of the steward, 
doing also with his own hands many carpenter's jobs. 
This produced small savings, and though it sometimes 
required hard labor, it afforded him a pastime which to 
some extent interrupted the wearines of his solitary life. 

His principal amusement, however, was the rearing 
of the young negroes, on whom he bestowed particular 
care. When he retired to the house at noon, they used 
to go behind him and form a line where they received 
instruction during one hour in praying and reading. Some 
of them were also taught to write. Our Patriarch would 
have run the risk of having the Ly^cb>law applied to 
him in onr Southern States. I have not seen, nor do I 
know of any similiar practice being followed anywhere 
else in the Island, and I suspect that the motive of that 
gentleman for proceeding thus was the remorse he expe- 
rienced for holding slaves. He was always endeavoring 
to diminish the labors of his negroes, and he hopes that 
he will shortly be able to supress the night work entirely, 
without any decrease in the quantity of sugar manufac- 
tured ; a problem which in my opinion is very difficult. 

The average crop of the plantation amount to fifteen 
hundred boxes of sugar, twenty thousand dollars worth, 
and though the expenses of production are about ten 
thousand dollars only, the debt of the plantation is always 
increasing in spite of his strict economy. The mystery 
was in the Refaccionista, a name given to the person who 
supplies the plantations with all the articles wanted, and 
afterwards sells the produce on commission. He charged 



148 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

to the owner's account all real expenses, and others, per- 
haps, which were never incurred, interest, commissions, 
and probably higher prices for the goods than they were 
really worth. The final result was that the balance in 
favor of the refaccionista was greater every year, and, 
therefore, a capital of two hundred thousand dollars did 
not yield any profit, but on the contrary, was always 
decreasing. 

The Patriarch, I believe, did not understand this pheno- 
menon, though I proved to him in an evident manner that 
by selling his one hundred negroes for half-price, giving 
away his land for nothing and investing his capital in any 
other enterprize, he could derive a handsome income of 
which he was then deprived. It is possible he did not 
want to lose the reputation of being a wealthy man, or to 
descend from the rank of a planter. The refaccionista, 
meanwhile, is becoming rich on the fruits of his vanity. 
I presume this is the case with many other planters. 



LETTER XXYI. 

A wedding among slaves — Huts — Drum-ball — Captains of the 
district — Vexations on poor farmers — Insolent abuses of 
soldiers — Despotism and Liberty. 

The day after our arrival was Sunday. At nine o'clock 
all the labors were suspended, and half an hour after- 
wards we saw several negroes and negresses neatly dress- 
ed with clean clothing, coming to the house. They were 
a young couple who, together with their groomsman and 
bridesmaid, were going to the village to get married. 
Their master gave them a ticket for the Curate of the 
church, and they then mounted on two mares. The 
bridegroom was going on the same animal with his bride, 
who was seated before him. He held her by his left arm 
round her waist while the reins were in his right hand. 

This marriage had been suggested by the Patriarch. 
The negro had acquired the bad habit of running away 
very frequently, and his master, in order to steady him 
on the estate, made him a present of a pig, and found a 
bride for him. She at first refused to accept the propo- 
sition, on the ground of his bad behavior; but he made 
a solemn promise that he would not run away any more, 
and that he would build his hut and devote himself in his 
leisure hours to the cultivation of the parcel of land (conu- 



150 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

coj which his master would allow him. The lady then 
agreed to it, and since that moment her future half, changed 
his conduct. He, then, began to dig the holes for the 
piles of his house, and cut down in the woods the neces- 
sary timber. His friend Nepomuceno, who was the most 
skilful hand on the plantation, — though he had a vice for 
each of his good qualities — superintended the work, 
which was finished during my stay there, in about three 
months after its commencement. The master, then, ex- 
amined it, and having found every thing right, presented 
him with a wooden key for the door, made by himself, 
and gave him leave to marry. These huts did not cost 
any ihing to the slaves, except the labor invested in them, 
because all the materials could be found on the planta- 
tion, for even the roof was formed with the leaves of the 
palm tree (guano). 

Each family have a house to themselves, as the Patri- 
arch had not been willing to follow the fashion of build- 
ing barracones. This name is given to a large and strong 
building where all the negroes are locked up during the 
night on many plantations, and hence, they, oftentimes, 
instead of sleeping mounted their mares and went to the 
estates in the vicinity. The owner was as well aware of 
this as of various depredations committed on his sugar; 
but he suffered it because he wished to afford them all 
possible freedom. 

In order to entertain the newly married couple, who 
soon returned from church, there was in the afternoon a 
drum ball (tambor). All the negroes, dressed in their 
best, stood forming a circle. The instruments used by 
the band consisted of two drums made with a piece of 
the hollow trunk of the palm, covered on one end with a 
piece of hide, and several couples danced twisting them- 
selves in an extraordinary manner. After the lapse of one 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 151 

hour, the ball ended and a small glass of aguardiente was 
handed to each slave. They afterwards, changed their 
clothes and at sunset began to cut grass for the horses, 
and do other jobs. The morning had been spent by 
some in working on their conucos, and by others in sleep- 
ing in their huts. 

My new friend seemed very happy in his solitary life, 
and did all in his power to please and entertain me. He 
is an exceedingly amiable person, of excellent temper, 
good humored, very obliging and indulgent to the faults 
of others, as will very easily be seen from what I am 
going to relate. 

The Captain of the district was in the habit of going to 
the plantation and staying there for several weeks, with- 
out having been invited, on the ground of his authority. 
He was a newly arrived Spaniard, of the worst education 
and coarsest manners. He appropriated to himself every 
thing good he met with ; criticised every thing, even the 
quality of the meals ; gave orders to the servants in a 
haughty tone of voice, using also indecent expressions ; 
even rudely demanded the Patriarch's razors to shave 
himself, as he stood in need of the most indispensable 
articles. The proprietor suffered these annoyances pa- 
tiently and was satisfied with saying, "Poor fellow, he is 
a beast." He also feared to displease him and expose 
himself to the consequences of his enmity. 

One day he captured a soldier who had desserted his 
banners, and went to the plantation accompanied by his 
lieutenant and the prisoner, who being tightly tied could 
scarcely move. "Host," said he without any other salu- 
tation, " I want two white men to scort this rascal, as I 
do not wish to proceed any farther." The place where the 
soldier was to be carried was nine miles from the estate, 
replied the Patriarch, "and the 



152 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

overseer cannot leave the slaves alone." The Spaniard 
then looked at me; he undoubtedly intended to make me 
a bailiff of his government I But my countenance was 
grave, and he did not look in that direction again. 

A poor old man, owner of a small farm, was plough- 
ing not far from the house where we were. "Host," said 
the Captain, "send a negro to tell that man to come here 
quickly." The slave departed, and soon returned accom- 
panied by the farmer who had to abandon the furrowing 
of his land. 

"Hear ! " said the Spaniard in a highly contemptuous 
manner, "take this man to the Captain of* * * district, 
and hand him this paper. Be careful, for if he escapes I 
will keep you a fortnight in the stocks, and afterwards 
send you prisoner to Havana." 

Neither requests nor arguments influenced his decis- 
sion. The old farmer alleged in vain the damages he 
was going to sustain, losing a whole day's work and 
leaving his family alone. There was no alternative . . . 
The poor man had to obey, and I wondered at such 
flagrant despotism. 

Two days afterwards another scene similar to this took 
place. A company of twenty mounted horsemen, headed 
by their officer, made their appearance on the estate. 
They asked for food for themselves and their horses, re- 
quiring it to be furnished quickly. Ten or twelve slaves 
were taken from their labor and set to cutting grass, &c. 
They consumed all the meat and vegetables that were in 
the pantry, and the officer required to have his table pro- 
perly set and abundantly provided. They stayed two 
hours, and neither paid for what they consumed, nor 
even thanked the proprietor for his trouble. 

Many other curious things occurred which I do not 
relate, but this may be sufficient to give you an idea of 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 153 

what the inhabitants of a country ruled by an absolute 
government have to suffer . . . Oh Charles ! Let us all 
die a hundred times rather than be deprived of Liberty ! 
Let us thank God for that inmense benefit conferred on 
us, and pray Him never to withdraw from us such an 
unvaluable blessing. 

I had not spoken to the Patriarch about politics before, 
and did it now for the first time. Poor fellow . . . He 
was aware of the unhappines of his condition and had 
become almost satisfied with it : man becomes accustom- 
ed to slavery. He spoke in a low tone of voice when 
alluding to the government ; he feared that there might be 
some hidden spy hearing his words, and did not consider 
himself entitled even to the right of complaining. 



LETTER XXVII. 

Improvement in the speaking of Spanish — The water-carrier negro- 
Resignation of slaves — The blind negro and his chickens — 
The fututo — Assault by the residents of the palenque — Feat 
accomplished by the dogs — Cruelty of the Captain — An 
American Engineer. 

I had one day the pleasure of ascertaining that I had 
made some progress in my Spanish. I talked for a long 
while to the water-carrier of the Patriarch, and unders- 
tood every thing he said, though he was not a Creole. 

The business of this slave was to bring from the river 
all the water that was needed. He brought it in four 
barrels, which he placed on the back of a mule. As the 
animal walked slowly, the negro had to go over the way 
a less number of times in the day than if he had gone 
quickly ; it would not do, however, to go too leisurely, 
because he was required to have always a good supply. 

I was once on the border of the river when he came 
down, and asked him whether he did feel tired of such a 
tedious life or not. He replied that he was not, because 
he had food enough to eat, and tobacco for his pipe, and 
once in a while he could take a draught of aguardiente. 
His master, he said, was very good ; he gave him cloth- 
ing, and never punished him; only a certain overseer, 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 155 

whom he considered very wicked, and who had been in 
the plantation several years before, had once unjustly 
flogged him. In answer to several other questions that I 
put to him, he said that he only wished to be free in case 
his master would allow him to live in his hut, and give him 
his daily allowance ; but preferred to be a slave if he was 
obliged to earn a livelihood, as then the robbers would 
deprive him of his savings, and the justicia (Judges) 
would persecute him in order to exact money from him. 
He also thought that when sick, he would not find a hos- 
pital to go to. 

The simple thoughts of this negro recalled to my mind 
the condition of some of our own destitute countrymen, 
and I parted from him in gloom, looking upon him as a 
comparatively happy being, who knew nothing of the 
higher pleasures of life, and was satisfied with his fate, 
and his most indispensable wants being supplied. 

I had another conversation with the negro who opened 
and shut the gate of the pasture ground when any per- 
son required it. He was very old, entirely blind, and 
could do nothing else. One afternoon I went hunting with 
my host's gun, which, although it was a very poor one, 
would kill great many birds on account of their abun- 
dance ; indeed their number was so great that I once 
killed eleven parrots with a single shot. 

I passed by the gate-keeper's hut and asked him for 
something to light my segar. I also inquired after his 
health, and he answered': " Anacleto is putting an end to 
my life." I did not understand him at first, but after many 
long and difficult explanations, I learned that a negro of 
the plantation called Anacleto, who had run away, was 
in the habit of stealing the chickens he raised. He seem- 
ed to consider that property as his own life, and the de- 
crease of the former as the extinguishment of the latter. 



156 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

I gave him half of the contents of my hunting hag, but 
he did not seem to be satisfied, as he preferred chickens in 
order to sell them to his master. 

As it was the custom of the Patriarch to get up in the 
morning before sunrise, and we had no circle or visits in 
the evening, we usually went to bed at eight o'clock. 
One night I awoke and heard a very strange noise at a 
great distance which I afterwards learned was produced 
by a large shell of a snail called fututo or fotuto, used as a 
horn by farmers who have no bells. Several hard knocks 
at our door were then heard, and we were called upon to 
rise immediately. "We inquired and learned that our visi- 
tor was one of the guardieros, or negro-watchmen, who 
take care of the plantation during the night ; and that he 
had come to inform us that they were blowing the fututo 
at the rega (tobacco 'field) of No Francisco. 

This was a sign that the farmer was in need of help. 
After dressing and providing ourselves with arms, we 
started in haste accompanied by the overseer, the mule- 
teer and two or three slaves armed with cutlasses, and 
two dogs, towards the farm. At a distance from it, we 
distinctly heard a great uproar among the animals on the 
farm : our dogs could no longer be restrained; they broke 
loose and rushed towards a small cottage, and almost at 
the same time we heard a great noise caused by people 
who were running away. 

When we arrived, we saw each dog holding a negro on 
the ground, and so fastened to him, that it was with diffi- 
culty that we could get them off. On entering the house, 
we found the farmer lying on the floor of the hall with 
his hands and feet tightly tied. His wife and daughter 
had locked themselves up in a small room, and one of 
them was still blowing the fututo, not knowing that we, 
their liberators, had arrived. 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 157 

They had been assaulted by the runaway negroes of 
the palenque in the mountains of Cuzco. The robbers 
had carried off some chickens with them, but we did not 
allow them time enough to take the pigs also. The pri- 
soners were dangerously wounded ; nevertheless they 
were taken to the plantation, and having been securely 
lodged in the hospital, their wounds were skilfully and 
dexterously dressed by the Patriarch. They both belong- 
ed to estates in the vicinity, and one of them had been 
away for over ten years. 

The Captain came for them the next day, and in spite 
of the suggestions made to him of the danger of their 
having the lock-jaw or spasm if they went oat of the hos- 
pital, he took them at once to their respective masters, in 
order to collect from them, before the slaves should die 
the fee for having captured them. He seemed not to be 
satisfied with taking for himself what really belonged 
to the Patriarch, and dwelt upon the small number of pri- 
soners we had got, as his fees (captura) would other- 
wise have been much larger. 

On the same day I had the pleasure of seeing a coun- 
try-man, a true Yankee, arriving on the estate. Mr. * is 
a native of Concord, New Hampshire, and is the Engi- 
neer of my host, who pays him a salary of one hundred 
dollars per month all the time that the grinding season 
lasts, and gives him also excellent accomodations, and as 
good treatment as he himself receives, during the time 
that he wishes to stay on the plantation. He goes home 
every year to see his wife, and though he might remain 
six months with her, commonly returns at the end of three. 
He seems to prefer the warm climate of Cuba to the 
rather severe cold of his native State. 

His surprise was great in meeting with another Ame- 
rican, and you may easily conceive the pleasure it afford- 



158 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

ed me. I had not spoken a single word in English for 
the last twenty days, and when I commenced, I felt a 
slight difficulty in the first phrases ; but still all my 
thoughts are in my native tongue, and when I make any 
calculation in Spanish, I do not become satisfied unless I 
rectify it in English. 



LETTER XXVIII. 

Excursion to the Vuelta de Abajo — Keepers of the large breeding 
farms, (haleros) — Their assistants for the grazing of the cattle 
on the plains, (Sabaneros and Peones) — Customs — Tobacco 
fields — Tricks of the tobacco planters — The farmer of Las 
Pozas — Anecdotes about Enna's troops — Interview with 
Narciso Lopez — Cordillera de los Organos — San Diego 
Springs — The duck-race. 

My excellent friend the Patriarch, carried his amiable 
attentions towards me so far as to undertake a rather 
long journey to afford me an opportunity of seeing the 
field of Las Pozas, and at the same time the breeding 
farms and tobacco plantations. I had evinced a desire to 
see with my own eyeswhat had been described to me, and 
he was so kind as to abandon his quiet life and the care 
of his property in order to comply with my wishes. 

We started on our great expedition accompanied by 
the same negro who had come with us from Don Anto- 
nio's plantation, and as we afterwards concluded to pro- 
ceed to the Banos de Sa?i Diego (San Diego watering 
place), our trip lasted longer than we at first anticipated. 
I had the opportunity, however, of seeing many new and 
curious things, and had it not been for this excursion, my 
opinions on several subjects would have been quite diffe- 
rent from what they are. 



1G0 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

The customs of La Vuelta de Abajo are more rustic, 
if I may be allowed to use that term, than those of the 
other districts of the Island which I had seen. The 
guajiros wear shoes made of hog's skin, from which 
they are called by the name of berraco, and which do 
not resemble at all that useful article. They are com- 
monly used by the Jiateros, (improperly pronounced by 
them j ate ros), sabaneros and peones, whose chief business 
is to ride over the estates and see if there are any animals 
wounded or caught in the thickets of the woods. They 
ride on horseback without saddles, and handle the lazo 
rather dexterously to catch bulls and cows. I have seen 
them taking their dinner ; they had a plenty of meats and 
vegetables, and also of brown sugar, which they ate 
with wooden spoons, out of large dishes made of the 
same material. These men earn very small wages. 

These estates contained nothing worth seeing in-as- 
much as there was not even a house upon them, unless a 
few huts might be so styled. We, therefore, stopped at 
one of them, only at the repeated invitation and request 
of the lessee. While there, I was passing along near a 
litter of young pigs, and seeing them alone, I picked one 
of them up and walked away ; but he began to squeal, 
and the sow rushed towards me enraged and bristling. 
I ran with the pig in my hands ; but seeing that she was 
gaining upon me, I dropped it on the ground, and she 
then stopped her pursuit. Wild hogs are very ferocious, 
and sometimes attack people ; wild dogs are also very 
mischievous. 

In the tobacco-fields they were doing the escojida, that 
is, the picking out and assorting the leaves. In almost 
every instance the produce was already sold to specula- 
tors in Havana, who are in the habit of advancing the 
price, and when the crops come in they go to witness the 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 161 

making up of the bales (enterciado) in order to prevent 
their being sold to others or changed for articles of an 
inferior quality, to prevent which, great care is necessary. 
One of the planters was so frank that he explained to us 
the tricks he generally used in order to cheat the purcha- 
sers, and also related an occurrence in which he had run 
the risk of being stabbed, as he perhaps deserved. 

It is needless to say that we smoke quite a large num- 
ber of the segars called vegueros. They are sometimes 
made by the women, who roll them up in their hands, 
and that is the cause why they are not so smooth and 
well finished as those made on tables. We were every 
where presented with them in so liberal a manner that 
the load of our servant was greatly increased. 

Our pilgrimage over the mountains of Cuzco was rather 
toilsome, for though the ground was dry and hard, the 
slopes were steep and dangerous. Six miles before reach- 
ing the field of Las Pozas, we entered on a farm whose 
proprietor seemed to be well posted up in the events that 
had taken place in that neighborhood. He was a man 
of about seventy years of age, but strong, pleasant and 
obliging. His wife, who was only fifty years old, his 
single daughter and a negress, their servant, were all the 
inmates of the house. 

We inquired whether he could sell us some thing for 
breakfast or not, and he replied that he would give us 
gratis, and with the greatest pleasure of every thing he 
had, "because" said he, "my house, though miserable, is 
not an inn." His wife and daughter then began to move 
about in order to present us with the best they had, while 
the good old man entertained us with his pleasant con- 
versation . . . How do I regret that I cannot mention 
the names of persons to whom I am indebted ! 

He described some interesting events and related many 

7 * 



162 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

annoyances and bold depredations committed on Kim by 
the Spanish soldiers, while the Yankees, as he called the 
recent invaders, had not caused him the least trouble or 
damage. 

On learning- the news of the landing of Lopez, he was 
ad viced by the Captain of the district "to escape and carry 
with him as much of his property as he could, as well as 
his whole family, to avoid being murdered and pillaged 
by the pirates ; " but instead of following this advice, he 
mounted his horse, and secretely went to meet the Gene- 
ral to inquire from him whether it would be wiser to take 
his family far from the place, or whether they could con- 
sider themselves safe staying on the farm. 

He met the General, who was outside the village, ac- 
companied by several officers, sitting down on some large 
stones. He did not need to inquire which among those 
gentlemen was the Chief: fame had taken care to make 
his portrait widely known, and it was a notorious fact 
that his long white beard hung down to the middle of 
his breast. 

The gallant soldier rose, and in a friendly and amiable 
manner tendered his hand to the farmer. He then took 
him apart, and on ascertaining the object of his visit, he 
said that he could answer for his own proceedings, but 
was unable to do the same for those of others, who were 
with him ; but, above all, that the Spanish troops would 
shortly arrive, and that he ought to fear them more than 
the invaders. " Prophetical words !," said the old man, 
while the tears started from his eyes. 

Lopez requested him to join the army after having 
taken his family to a safe place. He promised to do so, 
because despite his age, he considered himself bound by 
duty to do it ; but when his family were safely removed, 
and he went back to his farm, the expedition had been 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 163 

disbanded, and it would have been foolishness to want- 
only sacrifice himself. The only good he could do was 
to hide two wounded Cubans whom he succeeded in 
saving notwithstanding the great number of soldiers who 
passed through his estate. He had the pleasure of learn- 
ing, through a reliable gentleman of Havana, their safe 
arrival at New Orleans, on board an American steamer, 
just one month after their departure from his house. 

All the animals he had on the farm were devoured by the 
soldiers under the command of Enna, and even a milch- 
cow, which was too poor to afford any meat, was slain in 
spite of his remonstrances. Afterwards, when General 
Concha went to examine the ground and distribute money 
to those who had suffered damage, it is said that several 
persons obtained some, because they affirmed that the 
damage was done by the pirates, but those who spoke 
the truth could not get any. Many who had not suffered 
in the least, obtained considerable sums. The object 
was, probably, to admonish the inhabitants of what they 
have to fear from future invasions. 

One day a few officers and soldiers arrived on our 
host's farm, and the first named compelled the poor man- 
to wait upon the table where they were taking their din- 
ner. They were also, all the while, laughing at his man- 
ner of speaking, mocking the customs and movements of 
the old man, boasting, and speaking of Creoles and Yan- 
kees in the most contemptuous language. When their 
amusement had attained its highest pitch, and they were 
devouring every thing and breaking plates, tumblers and 
dishes on purpose, the report of two or three guns fired 
near by was heard. They all left the table at once, and 
rushing out of the house terrified, ran in disorder towards 
the road. One of the officers forgot to take his sword 
which he had left in a corner of the room, and our host 



164 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

taking it quickly threw it after him, bursting at the same 
time into loud laughter. "Surely," said he to us, "half a 
dozen men might have taken prisoners those same heroes 
who were boasting so much a few moments before." 

We learned several other feats of this description per- 
formed by the sons of Pelayo and the Cid ; and were I to 
relate them, the renown which they arrogate to themselves 
of being a courageous people, would be considerably di- 
minished. Owing to my silence, a better opportunity is 
afforded them of denying the facts, and affirming that 
every thing I write to you is falsehood on the part of the 
farmer, and jealousy (envidia) on the part of the Yankee. 
I would only ask those valiant troops how was it that the 
greatest number of their wounded received the balls in 
the soles of their feet 1 

At last, we arrived at the field of Las Pozas where a 
glorious monument will be erected, perhaps at not dis- 
tant day, in memory of one of the most brilliant ex- 
ploits of modern times, as that great feat has been pro- 
perly named. There we beheld the camp where a hand- 
ful of generous and gallant heroes, Americans and Cu- 
bans, fought and defeated and put to flight an enemy 
ten times stronger. Every one of the stones of that loca- 
lity is historical ; I stood on them with great satisfaction, 
but I have not seen the spot where Enna received that 
well directed blow which so terrified the Spanish gover- 
nors of Cuba. 

The Catalonian who kept the inn in which we took 
our dinner that day, did not entertain the unfavorable 
opinion of his countrymen in Havana, in regard to the 
followers of Lopez, so atrociously slandered by them. 
He praised the conduct of the invaders ; he spoke with 
admiration of their courage, and with impartiality of the 
fears with which they inspired to the Royalists. Thus 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 165 

it is that truly vaillant men conquer the sympathies 
even of their most fanatical adversaries ! 

We heard from the mouth of this Catalonian several 
statements, which, if true, would prove the infamy and 
cowardice of the Spanish officer who first took charge 
of Lopez when he was made a prisoner. The Spaniard 
found him exhausted by hunger and weariness, and scar- 
cely able to walk ; he had no shoes, and his feet were 
bloody and lacerated. He caused him to be tightly tied ; 
his elbows were almost joined at his back; a rope was 
then placed around his neck, and then the wretched offi- 
cer attained the climax of his cowardice performing the 
vilest act a man can commit : he put his infamous hand 
on the face of the hero ! 

The Patriarch wanted to go from Bahia Honda to San 
Diego Springs to have the pleasure of crossing over the 
chain of mountains called Cordillera de los Organos, 
hoping to be able to show me the two seas on the north 
and south side of the Island ; but in this we were disap- 
pointed owing to the height of the trees which intercept- 
ed our sight. We were obliged to take a guide with us, 
and notwithstanding his services and his assurances that 
the route was suitable for horse travel, we were more 
than once on the point of falling down the deep ravines. 
Though what we really found was not quite all we had 
anticipated, yet, we saw much splendid scenery and many 
sublime and frightful precipices. Nevertheless, I had no 
confidence in the feet of my horse ; I did not, therefore, 
feel safe when mounted, and when I walked, I feared 
that he would slip and fall upon me. Altogether, I must 
confess that such long and toil-some tour gave me but 
little pleasure. 

I was greatly surprised on arriving at the village of 
San Diego, as instead of finding as I had expected, good 



166 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

and comfortable houses, we only saw many miserable 
cottages and huts. There were very few persons in the 
street, and it had the aspect of a deserted place. Inva- 
lids resort to those Springs in summer only, as we do to 
those of Saratoga, because as soon as the rainy season 
sets in, the waters of some of them, and more especially 
of those called Tigre and Templado, become very weak. 
Some return to their homes cured, some as sick as they 
were before, and some even worse, as is unfortunately the 
case with all remedies; many go away with their pockets 
full, and many others, not only have them emptied, but 
leave many accounts standing which they have to settle 
afterwards. 

Many wonderful cures are, of course, always related as 
being effected by the waters of the springs. Two or three 
marriages were arranged there during the last season, and 
it is not impossible that these waters may have the pro- 
perty of promoting them. Should such power be disco- 
vered and made known, the village will be exceedingly 
crowded in succeeding seasons. 

On our return we passed through the village of Los 
Palacios, though I did not see any palaces there; but we 
had an opportunity to witness a duck race (corrida de 
patosj. I can hardly write a description of it, because 
the amusement was so cruel that I was greatly shocked. 
An old duck is hung with the head downwards, from a 
strong branch of a tree, at such a height that a man 
mounted on his horse and riding at full speed under it, 
may catch hold of the neck and pull the head off. In 
order to make this task more difficult, the neck is cover- 
ed with tallow, causing the hand to slip, and thus the 
sufferings of the poor animal are protracted. 

Over thirty mounted guajiros are seen stationed at a 
given point, from which they start successively and try 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 167 

their strength on the bird. We left before the victory had 
been won. All the inhabitants of Los Palacios, I believe, 
and many of the residents of the neighborhood, were 
present, and also the Captain of the district who author- 
ized that innocent pastime. I mentioned, this fact to the 
Patriarch, and he answered: " The government likes 
every thing which in any way contributes to brutalize 
the people." 



LETTER XXIX . 

Return to Don Antonio's estate — Trip in a cart drawn by oxen — 
Cold bath in November — Ball with the tiple (small guitar) — 
Love in country people — A good law among many bad 
ones — Don Mateo Pedroso and Dona Mariana Barreto — 
Exaggerated wealth. 

Two days after our return to the Patriarch's planta- 
tion, Joseito came and told me that he had company at 
the estate ; and that it was necessary that I should go to 
do them the due honors. It consisted of all the members 
of his family, except his father who remained in Havana. 
They use to spend a few weeks in the country at a cer- 
tain season of the year, and although this time had not 
arrived yet, they came to stay with me for a week while 
I was becoming accustomed to the climate. 

I had to bid adieu to the Patriarch, which I did with 
regret; for I had formed a strong attachement for him, 
and I believe that he, in turn, entertained the same senti- 
ment towards me, notwithstanding the saying "that per- 
sons who have reached a certain age do not easily acquire 
new friends." He, therefore, extorted from me a promise 
to come again with Joseito and stay another season with 
him; and the Engineer gave me his address and request- 
ed me to visit his family on my return to the States. 



LETTERS PROM CUBA. 169 

Very early in the morning of the next day, the Fili- 
buster and myself started at a good round pace, and as 
the roads were dry, we reached our destination about 
three hours afterwards, before breakfast time, having 
stopped on the way only once to drink a cup of bad coffee 
and milk in the same inn kept by the Catalonian of whom 
I have spoken to you before. 

All the family were on the piazza waiting for us. They 
accosted me with hundreds of questions about my tour 
through the Vuelta de Abajo, and the eldest daughter 
(whom I will call hereafter Emily) called me to account, 
and affirmed, with a well feigned air of sincerity, that she 
had received reliable information that I had fallen in love 
with a country girl whose father used to wear Jwg-sJwes. 
They regreted that I had not taken with me one of those 
shoes in order to send it to Barnum's museum. Wishing 
to punish them for their mockery of the Vuelta de Abajo, 
I replied that what I was going to send to New York as 
a curiosity was one of the heavy wheel -barrows (carre- 
tilla) that are commonly met with in Havana. 

The girls and boys began to discuss the best manner of 
arranging our excursions and amusements, and. thought 
of beginning by a ride to the villages and plantations in 
the vicinity ; but the old lady said that Joseito and myself 
had already travelled eight leagues that day, and that for 
this reason nobody ought to go beyond the bounds of the 
plantation. 

At about noon I was somewhat surprised at seeing the 
Filibuster coming to the house on a cart drawn by two 
teams of oxen, and covered on the sides and upper part 
with green leaves of the palm tree. He stood on the fore 
part of the vehicle, and had in one hand a long pole and 
in the other the two reins of the nearer team, which were 
two ropes tied to the animals' nostrils ( narigones ). A 

8 



170 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

young negro walked ahead of the farther team, and by 
means of ropes led the oxen in the desired direction. 

In order to give me a surprise, they had not acquaint- 
a : ed me with the purpose of the cart, which was to take all 
the family to the bath, including Na Isabel and the wife 
and daughter of the new overseer, for during my absence 
the other had been discharged for having punished one of 
the slaves too severely. We all got into the cart; tho 
ladies sat down in the fore part on their own limbs, after 
the Turkish fashion, and we took possession of the rear 
and sat with our feet touching the opposite side. Two 
young negresses carrying the ladies' clothes, were also 
in the vehicle. 

Amidst much laughing, singing and criticizing the 
want of skill of the driver, who bore the slander patiently, 
we proceed to the place in the river where we used to 
fish before, and on arriving, I was surprised again on see- 
ing in the middle of the stream a well built house on 
piles and covered with palm leaves, which formed the 
ladies' bath. 

The spot was delightful, and we soon found another 
for ourselves above that place in a natural recess formed 
by the stream, where we could not be seen by the people 
in the bathing house. The trees were so luxuriant and 
the foliage so thick, that they leaned to the opposite bor- 
der and formed an arch over the water impassable by the 
sun's rays. This produced an impossing darkness accom- 
panied by a deep silence only interrupted by the singing 
of the birds and the purling of the stream. 

You will, perhaps, consider it any thing but agreeable 
to take a cold bath in the month of November ; but the 
weather required it. The thermometer stood in my opi- 
nion at seventy-five or eighty degrees. We all liked the 
sport, and our appetite decidedly improved, as was con- 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 171 

clusively proved by the large quantity of fruits consumed 
after our return to the house, and the honors rendered to 
the dinner which was served two hours afterwards. 

We undertook a ball in the evening, but neither the 
boys nor I were good musicians, and the young ladies 
had no piano to play. There was also too small a num- 
ber of men to form a regular dance ; but though the obs- 
tacles were great, "Omnia vincit amor," and the driver of 
the carriage (calesero) was called in, and with a small 
guitar, called tiple, played a waltz very skilfully. 

T began to dance, but the Seiiora adviced me to stop, 
as the agitation might produce some mischief. 

I also heard some stanzas sung by Na Isabel aided by 
some of the young ladies. The subject was sentimental, 
and the music, as I understood, a succession rather too 
violent of grave and acute tones and viceversa. In the 
song a young farmer complained, not on account of any 
misconduct of his lady love, who was faithful to him, but 
of his poverty, which had caused an order of her parents 
forbidding her all further acquaintance with the poet. 
He used to go every evening before her house to weep 
over his misfortune, and relate to her the thoughts he had 
had during the day, and the plans he had formed in order 
to obtain the sordid metal, the want of which-produced 
their common unhappiness. 

The facts which formed the subject of the poem were 
true, and Na Isabel was acquainted with the suffering 
author. He was the son of a poor farmer who for seve- 
ral years had employed the father of the young lady as a 
laborer, and she was born in his own house. When he 
obtained some money, he began business himself by going 
to Matanzas every day with two horses loaded with 
sugar-canes, which he sold in the streets. After the lapse 
of a few years he had amassed a tolerably large capital, 



172 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

which he invested in a tract of land devoted then to pas- 
turage, and which he afterwards improved and made a 
sugar plantation of it. The former employer not being 
so successful, remained in the same condition ; and the 
laborer, who had reached a high rank in society became 
so haughty that he refused to have the son for husband 
of his daughter. The young lady, however, paid more 
attention to the voice of her heart than to her father's, and 
having respectfully asked him the cause of his denial, he 
replied that the poverty of the man was the only objec- 
tion he had. She, then, resolutely answered, that if that 
was the only cause, she would gladly submit herself to 
it, but the father, not wishing to change his resolution, 
took advantage of a favorable opportunity to attain his 
desired end. 

A Spanish Colonel recently arrived from the Peninsula, 
learned the circumstances of the case, and knowing that 
the girl's father was wealthy, did not hesitate in solicit- 
ing her hand, it being for him a matter of little conse- 
quence to obtain her heart. The father welcomed him 
to his house ; but the young lady, on learning his purpose, 
refused even to see him. She also informed her suitor of 
what was taking place, and he, aided by his friends, ob- 
tained from the authorities the leave for the marriage, 
notwithstanding the opposition of the stubborn father. 

You will undoubtedly be surprised on learning that 
the father was compelled to allow his daughter a monthly 
amount in proportion to his wealth. Such would not 
have been the case in our country ; and in my humble 
opinion, this law is better than ours. Among so many 
bad laws, there should have been at least one good. 

This history brought forth another which was related 
to us by the old lady, and which proves how far the 
government of this Island has intruded in the most in- 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 173 

timate business of the household. Don Mateo Pedroso, 
then the wealthiest man of the Island, succeeded in 
marrying Dona Mariana Barreto in the latter part of 
the last age. She did not accept the proposal very 
willingly, not only because the man was considered 
of a rank inferior to hers, but also on account of his 
reputation of being very niggardly. Her relations, how- 
ever, exerted their influence on account of the man's 
riches, and the marriage was effected. Several stories 
were related to prove his stinginess, and it was said that 
he once travelled six miles, in order to recover an old 
piece of copper that had fallen from his sword in a 
country inn, where he had stopped. 

Another objection with the lady was, that he was in 
the habit of wearing hog-shoes while on his estate, and 
also that he wore a coleta or queue, but these small in- 
conveniencies were speedily removed by a promise he 
made of wearing good shoes thenceforth while in the 
country, and also of catting off his coleta. The lady was, 
therefore, rather capricious ; but what the husband con- 
sidered worst of all, was her being as fond of that profuse- 
ness and pomp to which she had been accustomed since 
early childhood, as he was of the most rigid economy. 
Being liberal and charitable towards the poor, she was 
not allowed to indulge her inclination, and these differen- 
ces of opinion gave rise to several disagreements between 
them. 

The lady said once that she needed a new set of chairs 
for the parlor, as those she had were too old. It must 
here be remarked that the custom in Havana is to place 
the chairs as closely together as they can possibly be, 
filling every available space all around the wall, and that 
the size of the parlor required about three dozens. 

Don Mateo very reluctantly went out, and bought the 



174 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

article, but it was not of the first quality. The lady, then 
became indignant at the conduct of her husband, and or- 
dered a servant to bring an axe, and have all the chairs 
split to pieces before her, which was duly accomplish- 
ed. On another occasion she bought a dress for three 
hundred dollars to go to a ball, and a drop of melted wax 
accidentally fell on it. This mishap was related to Don 
Mateo, but he told her that the stain could be effectually 
removed, and besides, that nobody would pay any atten- 
tion to so small a matter. She, then, called him stingy, 
(cicatcro), and taking the scissors cut it all to pieces. 

Finally, seeing that less wealthy persons used to have 
a better table than hers, Dona Mariana made a complaint 
to the Captain General, who summoned the husband, and 
having ascertained that his yearly income amounted to 
eighty thousand dollars, designated the number and qua- 
lity of the dishes which he should thenceforth put on his 
table for breakfast, dinner and supper. 

This anecdote acquaints us with a fact which openly 
contradicts what you and I have read in a well known 
book, whose author is considered there as well informed 
on these matters. You see what was the yearly income 
of the richest man of the Island sixty years ago, and 
though there are now larger capitals, only few persons 
have such an income, and there is neither merchant nor 
planter possessing over four millions capital. It is, there- 
fore, an error to believe that some persons in Cuba are 
worth eight millions, as is stated in said book. Should 
the friend who has promised to furnish me with some in- 
teresting data keep his word, I shall speak to you here- 
after at some length about this matter. 



LETTER XXX. 

Excursion through the fields in the vicinity of Don Antonio's plan- 
tation — Cock-pit — ■ The ball zapateo — Its probable origin — 
Breaking of a ball — Mercenary murders — Forswearing not 
punished. 

On the afternoon of the following day all the young 
folks and myself "went on horseback on an excursion 
through the plantations in the vicinity. The two girls 
rode on two small mares, with pack-saddles made of 
straw (aparejo), over which a seron (pannier) had been 
secured, in which they placed their feet well wrapped in 
the lower part of their dresses. They could thus make 
use of short or common dresses, but I was not able to 
understand how they could disengage their feet in case of 
the falling of the animal. 

The three beasts destined for us had the saddles used 
by the country people, and as they are not commonly 
provided with stirrups, it is difficult, for those who are 
not accustomed to ride on them, to keep their equilibrium. 
The horses belonged to the class called de paso (pacing), 
whose movement is so easy and gentle, that while the ani- 
mal is not tired, the rider does not rise from the saddle; 
and their velocity is as great as that of the swiftest trot- 
ting horses. 



176 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

The chief object of the excursion being the ride, we 
passed over several estatej, bat did not alight on any of 
them though warmly invited to do so. We were told 
that there was going to be a ball in the village the next 
day, and we returned determined to be present if the 
assent of the old lady could be obtained. 

After our return to the plantation the circumstances 
were stated to her, and her consent was asked, but there 
were strong motives for witholding it, as will be after- 
wards explained, and the head of the family being also 
absent, the wife did not wish to go without him. The 
request of the girls and boys were, however, so urgent 
that she at last granted them leave to go, on condition that 
the three ladies should go in the carriage and the gentle- 
men well armed would keep them company on horseback. 

Joseito invited me to go after breakfast to witness the 
cock-fights, which I, in order to satisfy my curiosity, ac- 
cepted, and though the amusement is cruel, I did not re- 
gret to have seen a spectacle that I had not anticipated. 
The arena of the combat was a circle of twelve or fifteen 
feet in diameter surrounded with a fence two or three 
feet high, behind which were the seats for the spectators. 

I was particularly struck on seeing people of all shades, 
white, black and more or less dark, indiscriminately mix- 
ed ; they all had their hats on, and were greatly excited 
in prospect of the fight; loud howls were heard on all 
sides accompanied by shouts, some of which were any 
thing but'edifying. The pit and the whole company seem- 
ed to be rather too democratic, as, I believe, everybody 
commanded, and no one obeyed. 

Two men were in the pit with the animals ; they were 
the gall er os, or persons to whom the owners of the cocks 
entrust the care of their champions while fighting. They 
sometimes took the animals in their hands, by common 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 177 

consent, it seemed to me, and sprinkled them with brandy. 
I saw also one of them putting into his mouth the bloody 
head of his warrior. They then released them again and 
the fight continued until one of them was killed, or its 
owner surrendered it as vanquished. 

Joseito explained to me the meaning of the shouts, &c. 
as I understood very little of that awful medley, and said 
that the howls were offers and wagers, or huzzas to the 
combatants for their good blows. The wagers were not 
even : — "Four against one" "One ounce against half an 
ounce" "One ounce against an escudito" (an eighth of an 
ounce).— The person that accepted said "pago" (I pay). 
The same individual that had just laid a wager in favor of 
a certain cock, would, perhaps, lay another in favor of the 
other on different terms. 

I remembered my friend the Patriarch on seeing the 
Captain who was also there in order to keep order, if such 
a term could be applied in that case. He complimented 
the owners of the winning animals, in order, undoubtedly, 
to make them devote themselves to the improvement of 
their stock, and afford them no time to think on other 
matters. One of the peculiarities that most strikes me in 
this unhappy people, is that they do not seem to unders- 
tand the wicked tendencies of their government, to all 
which they so meekly yield. 

After remaining about two hours witnessing the sport, 
we went out and felt half deaf on account of the thunder- 
ing noise. When, on arriving at the plantation, I was 
asked whether the spectacle had greately amused me, I 
thought they were mocking at my having preferred it to 
the company of my hosts. 

On the evening of the same day, I compensated myself 
for the disgust experienced in the morning, by assisting 
at a ball of simple country people (monterosj, and could 



178 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

I transmit my impression to you faithfully, you would 
greatly enjoy the novelty of the party. I do not know 
whether the origin of the zapateo could be traced or not. 
The movements are too quick for Spanish gravity, but 
bear a strong resemblance to the dances of the Africans. 
This dance is performed by dragging the feet along the 
ground, and now and then striking it heavily with the 
heels, jumping forward and backward, and assuming dif- 
ficult attitudes, and strange postures at the regular sound 
of music, produced by a guitar and an instrument made 
of the hard skin of a fruit called calabazo. The womaa 
sometimes turned her back to the man, who would then 
take off his hat and throw it at her feet, and even kneel 
down and implore her favors in a beseeching attitude. 
Several couples performed in succession, and each tried 
to excel the preceeding ones in the violence of their atti- 
tudes, the quickness of their movements and the intensity 
of the noise produced by their heels in striking them 
against the floor. 

The saloon was crowded ; the chairs were occupied by 
the ladies that danced, and the gentlemen were walking 
about mostly with their straw hats on, many smoking, and 
a few wearing their swords, and shoes provided with spurs. 
The mothers occupied an adjoining room, whence they 
looked at their daughters, and observed the gentlemen 
that were conversing with them. This, however, must 
have been a difficult matter for those that had not a very 
keen sight, as all the light in the saloon was furnished by 
a few wax candles placed in small lanterns hung from the 
ceiling. The novelty of the spectacle was materially in- 
creased by the fact that some of the horses, which were 
secured to the window gratings, on the outside of the 
house, thrust their heuds through the openings to enjoy 
the pleasures of the party. 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 179 

Fortunately, that evening was not disturbed by an oc 
currence which, it is said, not unfrequently takes place ; 
it is the breaking up of the hall (desbaratar el baile). 
Either through jealousy or revenge, some person often 
wishes to prevent the amusement, or not to allow it to 
continue. To attain this end, he and his friends, at a 
given signal, put out the lights, draw their machetes, and 
a fight ensues among the persons of the different parties, 
while many run to take their wives and daughters to a 
safe place. As a precaution against this awful medley, 
my recomen dado's wife had taken for herself and daugh- 
ters the seats which were nearest to the door of the room 
above alluded to, so that they could retreat, and shut 
themselves up as soon as the least symptom of disorder 
was seen. 

I have been told, that there was not many years ago a 
braggart, who without any particular motive beyond the 
desire of evincing his imagined courage, was in the habit 
of performing these strange feats. They assured me also, 
that he had on several occasions, the pleasure of seeing 
all the multitude hurrying out of the saloon, without there 
being a single person who would take upon himself the 
charge of punishing such wickedness and insolence ; nor 
was he ever tried by the courts of justice. It is not easy 
to explain how that man could escape the effects of the 
resentment of so many persons in the very moment of his 
transgressions. Our wonder, however, at the fact of his 
never having been prosecuted in the courts, will be dimi- 
nished, on considering that there is not the least assurance 
of the punishment of influential guilty parties, and that the 
probabilities are in favor of their being declared innocent. 

I have seen a native of the Canary Islands, of whom 
the following has been related to me. He witnessed a 
quarrel that took place between a planter and his carpen- 



180 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

ter, by whom he was insulted and called a swindler, for 
not having paid him his salary. The islander knowing 
that the planter must have become enraged against the 
carpenter, proposed to kill him, if the planter would only 
pay him forty ounces for the deed : " twenty for myself," 
said he, " and twenty to get out of jail." The planter 
did not accept the proposition, and inquired of him how 
he came to be so willing to run the risk of going to the 
garrote ; he replied, "If I am imprisoned, it will require 
very little influence to be set at liberty again ; no one will 
dare to accuse me, because everybody knows, that by 
giving money to the Judges, I shall be released, and then 
they will dread my vengeance." 

In fact, few persons dare to testify to the truth for fear 
of the retaliations of the accused, and of the persecutions 
of the courts ; for as there are no juries, every decision 
hangs upon the caprice of the Judges, who, it is notorious, 
are easily bribed or influenced. You may, perhaps argue, 
that as all affidavits are made under oath, persons who 
swear falsely expose themselves to the consequences ; but 
you will be readily convinced of the slenderness of the 
argument on learning, that such a crime is punished here 
with only the spiritual penalties of excommunication, and 
those that do not believe in their efficacy, laugh at the 
anathema. Some days ago, I read in an American paper 
a few lines, which will give you a correct idea about this 
matter : — " It is beyond doubt, that the fatal fault of the 
Spanish Americans has been their want of truthfulness. 
It is their fatal facility for making oaths and breaking 
them — for setting up governments, and conspiring against 
them, which has been their own ruin and that of their 
country. They inherited the quality from their forefa- 
thers, and each generation has improved upon it." 



LETTEK XXXI. 

Originality of the present Letters — Barreto, the wicked — His soul 
and body snatched by the devil — Hurricane called after him — 
Alms in Cuba — Some of Barreto's iniquities — Feudalism in 
the Island. 

My letters to you, dear Charles, would embrace a 
greater number of subjects, were I not fearful of being 
called a plagiarist. I therefore reflect before writing on 
any matter; and if I recollect having seen what I was go- 
ing to relate already published, I at once reject it, and 
only write on it when my views are different from those 
of former writers, or when their statements have been 
erroneous ; or finally, when it may be expedient to point 
out the differences that have taken place in latter years. 
As I desire to transmit to you new facts and observations 
only, you will find in the works already published on 
Cuba, what you may miss in my letters, while you will 
find in these, many matters that those do not contain. 

As there was no source of amusement on the planta- 
tion, and particularly during the evening from sunset un- 
til the time that we used to go to bed, conversation and 
the narration of stories were always resorted to. We all 
sat down in the piazza, and everybody did all in his power 
to enliven the dialogue. Occurrences that have taken 



182 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

place in the Island were very often related, and though 
some of them were already known to several of the lis- 
teners, they were all new to me. I will tell you of one 
of the most interesting, as I am almost sure you have not 
heard anything like it before. 

One of the dates that the Almanac of this Island com- 
memorates, is "Barreto's hurricane," a name which was 
given to that calamity, on account of its having occurred 
during the funeral of a person of that name, from whom 
the present Counts of Barreto, in Havana, are descen- 
dants. But this name is also applied, because the people 
in general sincerely believe, that the devil came shortly 
after his death and carried off not only his soul, but his 
body also. His corpse having been placed on a high se- 
pulchral monument, temporarily erected in the parlor of 
his house ; the sky suddenly became darkened, and a 
strong smell of burning brimstone was noticed in his resi- 
dence; fearful wing-strokes were also felt; they seemed 
to be produced by enormous bats, which put out the 
lights of all the long wax candles that had been burning 
near the dead ; and it is even said, that muttering voices 
which could not be understood, were heard as if uttered 
all round the hearse. 

The negroes, who dressed with long and expensive 
liveries, were sitting in the parlor taking care of the 
corpse, were stupified, and fell from their seats, believing 
that a whole legion of demons was in the saloon ; finally, 
one of them noticed that the body of the deceased had 
disappeared. 

The family really believed that their ancestor had been 
snatched from the earth, and thrown into hell, even with 
the clothes he had on ; and in order to conceal the fact 
from the eyes of the public, they ordered a few large 
heavy stones to be placed with the greatest secrecy in the 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 183 

coffin, and this being fast nailed, there was no possibility 
of any person's suspecting that it was empty, while being 
taken to the cemetery. 

The smell of the brimstone instead of disappearing, was 
becoming more intense ; and all nature seemed to be suf- 
fering an awful derangement, for as soon as the hearse 
was taken out of the house, the hurricane became more 
violent, and the clouds poured down such torrents of rain 
as were never before witnessed. The negroes who bore 
the coffin on their shoulders, were seized with great ter- 
ror, which increased when they perceived that they had 
no control over what they carried, for it became alter- 
nately light and heavy, and moved horizontally from one 
side to the other. Sometimes they were scarcely able to 
support its enormous weight, while at others, it seemed 
to have a tendency to ascend. Even -violent shakes, 
which threatened to throw them to the ground, were 
from time to time felt. 

On arriving at the church, the funeral procession com- 
menced entering, preceded by the cross, together with 
the friars of different orders, such as those of St. Augus- 
tin, of Mercy, of St. Francis, of Belen, and of St. Domi- 
nick, all with their clothes soaked with rain, and a pheno- 
menon was then observed, which spread confusion and 
wonder among all who were present. 

When the negroes bearing the coffin intended to enter 
the building, they felt some powerful obstacle, which did 
not allow them to proceed. The coffin could be easily 
moved in any other direction ; but after many trials it was 
evident that it would not go into the church, as if it still 
contained the body of the deceased, who was probably 
already suffering the punishment of his sins. 

The person having charge of the arrangement of the 
funeral, then ordered the corpse to be conveyed to the 



1S4 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

cemetery, which was done without difficulty ; but on low- 
ering the coffin into the vault, the smell of brimstone be- 
came exceedingly intense, reports of thunder were heard, 
thunderbolts fell to the ground, and such was the fury of 
the tornado and the force of the drenching rain, that the 
persons composing the procession rushed in great confu- 
sion to find a shelter in the chapel of the cemetery, and 
many of them were thrown down by the violence of 
the wind. The open ditch (zanja), which supplies the 
city with water overflowed; the sea threatened to inun- 
date it; trees were uprooted, and thrown to distant places; 
buildings were demolished; and some people went so far 
as to assert, that strange voices were heard in the air say- 
ing, " Barreto is already in hell." 

After hearing this story, I inquired of the lady, what 
had been the crimes committed by that man ; and you 
will agree with me in the opinion, that others equally, 
and perhaps more culpable, did not deserve so signal and 
strange a punishment. 

He once had company on his plantation, and at the 
moment of sitting down at table, a creditor arrived, who 
under the pretence of paying him a visit, came really to 
remind him of his debt — he was a bald old man, and 
Barreto being compelled to invite him to dine, took pro- 
per measures to play a trick upon him. One of his slaves, 
a colored man, following his master's instructions, conceal- 
ed himself in a recess (barbacoa), and when the creditor 
was in the act of raising to his mouth the first spoonful of 
soup, he threw a large banana, which struck the crown 
of his head, and dashed the soup around his clothing. 

On another occasion, he ordered the carpenter of his 
plantation to make wooden stocks for the feet, hands and 
head : after the work was finished, he told the mechanic, 
that in his opinion the hole intended for the head was too 



LETTERS FROM CUBA 185 

large, and this being denied, he induced the artizan to try 
it himself; as soon as the latter put in his head, Barreto 
locked up the opening, dropped the key into his pocket, 
and having ordered the overseer not to release him, went 
to Havana. The constraint and pain would soon have 
ended the life of the poor carpenter, if the other work- 
men on hearing his screams, had not liberated him by 
splitting the stocks with an axe. 

Several idle persons who always accompanied him, in 
order to enjoy his excellent table, and laugh at his witty 
sayings and doings, arrived once with him at G-uanajay, 
where some entertainments were taking place. Not find- 
ing accommodations in the inn or at private places from 
the influx of visitors, he proposed to spend the night in a 
lodge placed on wheels, which they found in the market. 
They all consented, and having removed the vegetables it 
contained, some cots were procured, and they were 
accommodated in the best manner circumstances would 
allow. On discovering his companions sound asleep, he 
cautiously arose, locked them in, procured two ox teams, 
which he had already in preparation, tied them to the 
lodge, and drew it into the river despite the terrified cries 
of his prisoners, who on finding the water rising waist- 
high, expected nothing less than instant drowning. 

One of them loudly complained of this feat, and used 
rather harsh words against him. Barreto, in order to 
revenge himself, ordered a very smart horse to be given 
to him the next day, under the saddle of which he had 
placed a bunch of pins in such a manner that the weight 
of the rider would thrust them into the animal's skin. 
The victim had scarcely mounted, when the animal began 
to run about and jump so abruptly that the rider was 
thrown to the ground upon some large stones, from which 
he was lifted up bruised and bleeding. 
8* 



186 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

The most singular feature of all his exploits was that 
lie always appeared as if innocent or unconscious of the 
deed. So, the bald man, the carpenter and the rider were 
made to believe either that he had not anything to do with 
it, or that it had been done through mistake or forget- 
fulness. 

It is a custom in many houses in Havana to distribute 
bread or vegetables among poor peojjle on Saturdays, and 
large number of mendicants are thus relieved. This is 
disapproved by some who believe, that vain show rather 
than true charity is the real cause of the proceeding ; but 
it cannot be denied that this virtue is very general through- 
out the Island, and I have been assured that there are 
many poor families entirely supported by wealthy per- 
sons, who pay them from thirty to fifty dollars per month, 
and do it with the greatest secrecy. 

Subscriptions for charitable purposes are always being 
made and the necessary amount is readly obtained in two 
or three days. The widows of officers who have died in 
the Island, especially, obtaining the services of some 
friend who offers to collect the donations, have not only 
obtained enough to pay for their passage to Spain, but 
have also sometimes acquired a sufficient amount to afford 
them a comfortable living. 

Creoles complain, however, that " Cuba is the mother 
of the foreigners and the step-mother of the natives ;" 
that "the Spaniards take advantage of Cuban liberality ;" 
and they bring as an instance the case of a Creole lady 
who put her name with six ounces, one hundred and two 
dollars, upon a subscription list in favor of the widow of 
Gil de Linares, Regent of the Audiencia, while her mo- 
ther was suffering from want. 

Barreto used to give alms at his residence also ; and 
seeing the court of his house one day full of blind and 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 187 

lame people, lie had recourse to an ingenious expedient in 
order to discover those who only feigned to be crippled 
and came to participate in the relief given to the suffer- 
ing. He ordered his men to let loose two bull-dogs which 
he had, and amused himself in seeing the stumbling of 
those who could not really see or walk, and also the live- 
liness with which those that were well in every respect 
opened their eyes and dropped their crutches to escape 
the danger. 

Several other stories were related to prove Barreto's 
wickedness, which perhaps belong to different persons. 
Those that T have narrated are not the worst. His slaves 
were more especially the victims of his cruelty, and if 
all that is said of his malignity be true, there was suffi- 
cient reason to believe that the devil was not satisfied with 
having his soul, but required his body also. My opinion, 
however, is that those facts have been grossly misrepre- 
sented, and that at least, one half of them are devoid of 
truth. 

From the oppressive acts of Barreto and many other 
wealthy and influential persons, a conclusion may easily be 
deduced, which though it has not been published by the 
so called historians of Cuba, seems to me to be well groun- 
ded, viz : — that a kind of feudal system ruled over the 
Island until a few years ago. The distinction between 
Lords and Feudaiaries did not exist legally, but there 
was such a difference in fact. All persons of the middle 
class had among the wealthy planters a protector fpadri- 
no) who exerted his influence on the Captains of the dis- 
tricts and on the Judges, either in their law-suits, or the 
persecutions to which they were subjected. Few slaves 
also dared to free themselves, when they had the money to 
do it, before securing the services of a padrino. 

The people suffered the tyranny of the government, be- 



188 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

sides that of the richer class ; and though it may be said 
that the latter does not now exist, yet the people do not 
enjoy more liberty, for the government officers have taken 
the place of that class, and tyrannize in their stead. The 
liberties and welfare of the inhabitans are rapidly dimi- 
nishing, because on the one hand the taxation has been 
increased in order to cover the expense of a large army, 
which is the only guarantee the government possesses for 
keeping the Island under its rule ; and on the other, they 
consider despotism and vexatious regulations as necessary, 
in order to suffocate and put down, at the moment of their 
birth, all projects tending to improve the social condition 
of the people. 



LETTEE XXXII. 

Ladies shopping — Marked prices — Measuring the nails — Attack 
on the New-York ladies by those of Havana — Fashion of ladies 
combs — The groomsmen and bridesmaids (padrinos) — A pre- 
sent of forty thousand dollars — Speculation in making presents — 
The physician Romero. 

The subject of our conversation during one of the 
evenings on the plantation, was one of the customs of 
Havana which, most strikes all foreigners. I mean the 
manner of shopping practised by the ladies. Those who 
have carriages do not alight, as our ladies do, and were 
they to do it, they would find no chairs or seats provided 
for their use. The carriage stops at the door of the store, 
one of the salesmen jumps over the counter and hastens 
to ascertain the wishes of the customer, making the best 
bow he can. He then goes in, and comes out again load- 
ed with the goods required and many others, which he 
declares have just arrived from France or England, though 
they may have been purchased in the United-States, and 
affirming that they are of the latest fashion, as the Coun- 
tesses So and So, have purchased of them. One of these 
interviews lasts from thirty minutes to an hour ; there are 
sometimes three or four carriages in front of the store, and 
the salesmen then, have to walk some yards in the street 



190 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

before reaching them. This is the reason why stores 
having a long front with many doors, or those on the 
corners are preferred, though the depth be only fifteen 
or twenty feet. 

Ladies having no carriages, go shopping in the evening. 
I have only seen them in the street, called by the people 
Muralla (Wall-street), despite the efforts of the govern- 
ment, who wish it to be called Ricla, after the name of a 
former Captain- General. The stores there are often seen 
crowded with white, colored and black women, who dis- 
pute with the salesmen as to the quality of the article, 
whether linen or cotton, and declare that some of their 
friends have bought the same quality of goods there at a 
lower price. They also haggle for an abatement of five 
cents per yard, until they are convinced that they cannot 
obtain it; and this is frequently done by wealthy ladies, 
as it seems that shojDkeepers generally ask a high price, 
in order to be able to make the desired deduction. There 
are, however, some stores where the one price system is 
established, and in one of them I have seen a sign, with 
the English words, Fixed Prices. 

Manv- ladies do not go to the stores, and give as a rea- 
son, that salesmen who are commonly newly arrived Spa- 
niards, are rogues, who cheat in the quality of the goods, 
sell damaged for perfect articles, cut off pieces from goods 
sold by the piece, and give short measure, or as they say, 
" measure their own nails," (se widen las unas). These 
ladies commonly send a message to the proprietor of the 
store, stating the kind of goods wanted, and one of the 
salesmen goes to the house loaded with articles, out of 
which the lady makes her selection. 

These establishments are neither in their appearance, 
nor in their variety, nor in the extent of their assortments 
like the sf)lendid stores of the same class in our large 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 191 

cities. I am sure that the sales of thirty of them do not 
amount to two millions, as is the case with that of Stewart. 
Their profits are, nevertheless, larger in proportion, be- 
cause they either realize one hundred per cent, on their 
goods, or practise gross impositions on the customers, as 
I have been assured they universally do. 

This matter of shopping, as I have before stated, was 
the subject of our conversation during a whole evening. 
I intended to criticize these habits, but the feminine por- 
tion of the company revenged themselves with a pretty 
severe attack on the customs of the New York ladies — 
" You will never see in Havana," they said, " a lady 
leavings her house at ten o'clock in the morning, and spend- 
ing the whole day in the stores, talking to the salesmen, 
not only about the goods they wish to purchase, but also 
about the marriages that are going to take place, and in- 
quiring who the parties are, what is their wealth, annual 
income, &c, and not returning home until five o'clock in 
the afternoon." " And what do you think," said the old 
lady, " of the married ladies, who during a single prome- 
nade through Broadway, bring about the ruin of their 
poor husbands, who tremble at the thought of a change 
of seasons, which takes place four times in the year, and 
which requires an entirely new assortment of bonnets, furs, 
cloaks, shawls, &c. ?" " A lady," answered the young- 
est girl, " can go out in Cuba with a dress, costing per- 
haps only three dollars, provided it be tasteful, while in 
* the North,' according to what I have been told, it is 
necessary always to wear expensive things, as the cost, 
and not the taste, is what is generally attended to." 

The Filibuster also, then rose against me, and said, 
"What I consider most shocking in the customs of New- 
York, is that a young lady going to purchase new shoes, 
places her feet on the salesman's knee, in order to have 



192 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

them put on." On hearing this, all the circle burst out 
into a loud laugh which lasted several minutes. I was 
greatly abashed, and could make no reply. The fault had 
been entirely mine in introducing such a conversation. I 
was pretty rigorously dealt with, and at last concluded to 
laugh with the rest, and thus diminish the mockery of 
the company. 

The excitement of the ladies became exceedingly great, 
and seemed like a kind of paroxysm. " Who has ever 
seen in Havana," they asked, " a lady paying three or five 
hundred dollars for a cloak, or investing five thousand 
dollars in the lace trimmings of a dress 1 Where can you 
find a lady here so lavish as to hire a carriage, which she 
really does not need, as she has one of her own, and keep- 
ing it five or six hours, forgetting that it must be paid 
for at a high rate ?" 

"For God's sake," T replied, "let us capitulate! let us 
capitulate !" But there was no remedy, and I had to 
suffer the penalty of our ladies faults. They also spoke 
of that meeting of husbands, which was stated to have 
taken place some months ago, and whose object was to 
induce people to bring up boys only. They pretended to 
believe, that it was truly a project, and not a newspaper 
production ; and they said, that if we allowed such a sys- 
tem to go into operation, we should be considered more 
cruel than the Spartans, as they only killed those children 
who were not perfect. 

American ladies not wishing to place their countrymen 
in "tight places," and causing them to be troubled, as I 
was, by faults, in which nobody but themselves are to 
blame, should reform their customs in that respect. I 
have come to the conclusion not to marry any lady until 
she has visited Havana, and learned some lessons of eco- 
nomy. 



LETTERS FROM CUBA, 193 

In another matter we "have reason to felicitate ourselves: 
Americans are considered here as very good in their capa- 
city of husbands, while the opinion is generally enter- 
tained, that the ladies are rather inconsiderate. I had, 
however, the pleasure of hearing those Cuban ladies 
acknowledge the merits of our fair sex in all other res- 
pects. They had known many in Havana, and were 
acquainted with several families from the States, remark- 
able for their excellent behavior and respectability. 

This conversation afforded me an opportunity of learn- 
ing, that some years ago an attempt was made to intro- 
duce into the Island a degree of extravagance in the fa- 
shions; but the frenzy with which the idea was at first 
received, awakened the good judgment of the mothers, 
who immediately put a stop to the evil. 

Manufactories of ladies' combs were established by 
several speculators, and the fashion was made to change 
entirely every month; this period was in a short time re- 
duced to a fortnight, and lastly to a week, while the 
prices were always increasing. Persons having four or 
five daughters, could scarcely meet the expense. The 
entire abandonment of the fashion was soon effected by 
the unanimous advice of parents, who, without the aid cf 
a meeting, resolved, as if by common consent, to persuade 
their daughters to give it up. 

The good sense of the Cuban people exerted its bene- 
fical influence also in supressing another equally detri- 
mental abuse. It was an established rule that the person 
invited to be the god-father of a child should make a pre- 
sent to the parents. Its amount was increasing until a 
kind of custom was formed of interesting the vanity of 
god-fathers in the costliness of their gifts. Persons having 
no objection to make this habit a means of speculation, 
used to have their children baptized by any rich man, 

9 



194 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

who would through vain show improve somewhat their 
financial condition. It is said, that the Gipsies in Spain, 
carry their enterprising spirit farther yet, as they have 
their children baptized in every town through which they 
pass. One god-father conceived the happy idea of making 
a present of a negro thirteen or fifteen years old to play 
with his god-son. Another, wishing to be more liberal, 
added a negress for nurse ; and lastly, a person named 
Silva, made a donation of a forty thousand dollar house 
in favor of a lawyer named Govantes. This was, how- 
ever, the last instance recorded, as a few days after, a 
Count, whose name I do not recollect, sent to the parents 
a lottery ticket only. Their disappointment was great, 
but more especially so, when they learned that it had not 
drawn a prize. 

Another custom which was formerly practised to a 
great extent, and which is still in use, though altered and 
modified in many respects, is that of the comadrazgos. 
A young lady wishing to give a proof of her attachement 
to another, sends her a present commonly of small value 
accompanied with a suitable piece of poetry. The other 
has to answer before a fixed time, if she does not wish to 
drown (ahogar) her friend, and this reply consists in an- 
other piece of poetry and a present a little more expen- 
sive than the one received. Nevertheless, as this custom 
has the appearance of being a speculation, it is only prac- 
tised among very intimate friends. A lady who has be- 
come notorious for the many stories that are related of 
her stinginess, formed on one of these occasions a very ex- 
traordinary idea. She received a present from a friend, and 
instead of keeping it for herself, made three parcels of it, 
which, accompanied by three pieces of poetry obtained 
from a second-rate poet, she sent to as many other friends. 
Their answers afforded her enough to make hers, and she 



LETTERS FROM CUBA 195 

had, besides, some articles left as a reward of her inge- 
nious device. 

Some persons are accustomed to make presents to each 
other on their birth-days or saints-days. I have not seen this 
practised on New Years, nor is everybody greeted on 
that occasion with "A happy new year," as is the case 
with us. Several lawyers and physicians receive on those 
days presents from their clients, which in no way inter- 
fere with the regular payement of their fees. 

This custom, which prevailed to a considerable extent 
in former years, is, I have been told, fast disappearing, 
and it is generally believed that the person who knew how 
to work this mine to his greatest advantage, was a phy- 
sician named Romero, who being poor at first, and by no 
means superior to any of his professional brethren in skill 
or science, left over one million dollars capital. Two of 
his sons have purchased titles ; one is a Count and the 
other a Marquis. In order to prove how aristocraticai 
are the ideas of some families, it is related that notwith- 
standing these titles of distinction, a young lady to whom 
one of them proposed marriage, replied that he still had 
the smell of a physician. 



LETTER XXXIII . 

Cocuyos or glow-worms — Instinct of a small dog — Sentence of a 
runaway negro — Want of liveliness in the Havana ladies — 
Its causes — Their beautiful feet — Charges against them — 
Their apology. 

You are aware that our glow-worms or fire-flies can 
bear no comparison with the Cuban cocuyos. These lat- 
ter are much larger, and the light they produce is strong 
enough to light tolerably well a dark room. I will not 
enter into a disquisition on the Natural Histoiy of those 
luminous insects, and will only say that their numbers 
greatly increase in the rainy season ; that after dark they 
come out from the rotten trunks of the trees in which they 
live ; and that it is an agreable amusement to catch them, 
either by holding one in the hand, or by forming a lumi- 
nous circle with a burning coal. In this manner, many 
are caught, and suitable cages, large enough to contain 
several dozens, are filled with little exertion. 

They require no other care but to be bathed once in 
the day; and sugar-cane deprived of its hard skin is the 
food commonly given to them. I have read that "when 
the British invaded the Island, in seventeen hundred and 
sixty-two, they saw one night so many of these worms in 
a neighboring wood, that they fled terrified, thinking that 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 197 

they were enemies in ambush. Though unable to gua- 
rantee the truthfulness of the statement, I would remark 
that the month of June, when the event is said to have 
happened, is the time when these insects are most abun- 
dant. 

While on the plantation, though the season of these 
animals was over, we used to see one or two every even- 
ing. The boys and myself would run after the insect, 
which was frequently made prisoner, and given to the 
young ladies. They confined it together with the others 
in the cage, which afforded them the pleasure of having 
their room lighted after going to bed, with these lumina- 
ries. Many ladies are in the habit of tying two or three 
in the end of their handkerchiefs, and others put them in 
their bosoms, which then look as if ornamented with 
shining emeralds. 

I do not believe in the veracity of a traveller who, ac- 
cording to the statement of a book published in London, 
wrote a description of his travels in Cuba with the aid of 
the light produced by a few of these insects ; nor have I 
seen them pierced through with a needle and strung like 
the beads of a rosary, as is stated in another book printed 
in the States. A string could easily be formed, however, 
without producing any suffering to the animal, by tying 
toefether their necks, or the muscle which unites the head 
and the body. 

The following is related of an elderly widow lady, who 
saved her life through the sagacity of a small dog and 
the light of a cage of glow-worms. She was on her plan- 
tation, and one evening went to bed and called the ani- 
mal, as usual, to jump upon her bed, and sleep at her feet. 
The dog instead of obeying, would not approach the bed, 
and the lady, thinking that it was a caprice of the animal, 
put out the light and prepared to go to sleep. The 



198 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

dog, then, taking hold with her teeth of the hanging end 
of the quilt, pulled it, and the widow, thinking that the 
animal wished to be helped to jump, stretched her arm 
and placed her on the bed ; but she jumped on the floor 
and began to pull the quilt again. The lady did not mind 
the stubborness of the animal, which on seeing this, en- 
deavored to pull all the quilt off the bed, whereupon she 
rose, and on stooping in order to recover it, she perceived, 
by the aid of the light of the cocuyos, a huge negro sleep- 
ing under the bed. 

This negro belonged to the plantation, but was a run- 
away, and had come, perhaps, to kill her, as she also 
observed a long dirk-knife in his hand. The lady then 
called in. a low tone of voice a trust worthy servant girl, 
who was sleeping in the adjoining room, and not wishing 
to make a noise, she had to call her three or four times. 
At last she came, and without telling her what had hap- 
pened, the lady took hold of her shoulder, jumped from 
the bed, and rushed to the door of the room. The over- 
seer and watchmen, on hearing her call, arrived before 
the runaway negro had awoke, who unfortunately found 
on entering the room, half a bottle of brandy on the lady's 
toilet, which he drank, and consequently yielded to the 
effects of the narcotic, notwithstanding his efforts to keep 
awake. The apology given by the negro to explain the 
motives of his conduct, was not satisfactory : he said, that 
he was very cold in the woods, that the mosquitoes so 
tormented him, that not having been able to sleep during 
many nights, he thought he could not find a more comfort- 
able and secure place than the one he had just selected. 

This history excited my admiration at the sagacity of 
the animal in not having barked, as it was natural under 
the circumstances, and apprized me also of a fact, already 
alluded to, and which I should never have learned, had 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 199 

not this story been related to me, viz. : the common prac- 
tice of the owners in concealing the crimes of their slaves. 
The lady condemned the negro to receive a novenary, or 
twenty-five lashes daily for nine days, and to wear shac- 
kles until further notice ; because the circumstance of his 
having runaway on account of a severe punishment in- 
flicted, afforded strong ground for the suspicion that his 
purpose had been to kill her. I then inquired why she 
did not prosecute him in the courts, and was told, that in 
that case, she should have lost his value, and perhaps 
have had to pay besides the costs of the proceedings. 

While we were hunting the glow worms, I observed, 
that the ladies did not know how to run, nor wish to 
learn; and as I had already perceived, that after -walking 
slowly not over a half mile, they became tired, and had 
to sit down on the grass, I could not help expressing my 
surprise, and explaining to them in the best manner I 
could, how injurious such a habit must prove not only to 
their health, but to their safety, in case of being obliged 
to- run, in order to escape an approaching danger. Whe- 
ther it is the effect of laziness, as I have been assured by 
some, or not, I am unable to say : but their mode of edu- 
cation and the prejudice, that violent movements are un- 
becoming in the fair sex, are, I believe, the leading 
causes. My opinion, however, is, that one of the great- 
est charms of the ladies, is a certain liveliness of move- 
ment acquired by constant practice, and the grace which 
they impart to the most trifling motions of the body. 

I told them that our girls were accustomed to play and 
run in the streets; that they were as smart as the boys, 
and consequently, that they could escape danger much 
more easily than the Cuban ladies. I also described to 
them the swiftness of our countrywomen in running up 
and down stairs, in jumping into the omnibuses, or in 



200 LETTERS FROM CUIJA. 

rushing .to get into a railroad car; but they laughed, and 
replied, that " those habits would be very good in cold 
climates, but not in countries where an excessive heat 
was experienced during the greater part of the year." 

The climate, and the want of practice, must certainly 
increase also the sensibility of their feet. The soles of 
their shoes, are besides very thin ; and lastly, their feet 
are so exceedingly narrow and short, that they do not 
afford a sufficient support to the body. This is a beauty 
peculiar to the Havana ladies, and though the feet of the 
Chinese women are also small, they are far inferior in the 
general proportions, being ill-formed and dwarfish, while 
those of the former are perfect, and seem to belong to 
young girls. The feet of the Spanish ladies are, on the 
contrary, comparatively large, as is also the case with the 
Spaniards, when compared with those of the Creoles. In 
general, it may be said, that smallness of the feet is pecu- 
liar to persons born in America ; you may easily be con- 
vinced of the truth of the assertion, by observing those of 
the Indians, which are found very small in comparison 
with those of Englishmen, for instance. 

In a book written on Cuba, and full of misrepresen- 
tations, the Havana ladies are accused of spending most 
of the time in their carriages,* of sitting on an easy chair, 
while alone in their homes, in clishabill, and receiving 
the fresh air from the fan of a servant ; of breathing only 
the smell of flowers and essences ; of having no other 
business than going from the toilet to the bath; and final- 
ly, of being so feeble, as to call a servant to hand them 
the handkerchief that has just fallen from their hands. 

But as far as my own observations and inquiries have 
gone, this description is greatly exaggerated ; the great 
liability of travellers to generalize single cases, has, per- 
haps, led to these misrepresentations. The Creole ladies- 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 201 

being endowed with taste, like what is good ; they also 
deserve praise for the exercise of that propensity to which 
ladies must so particularly attend, the desire to enhance 
their beauty and grace ; and their movements participate 
of a delicate, yet irreproachable softness. If these are to 
be considered as faults, I wish that my future spouse may 
be guilty of them. 

That the love of cleanliness has not been inherited from 
the Spaniards, is proved by the testimony of numberless 
Spanish writers : and recently Fr. Gerundio has publish- 
ed the following incident, as having happened to himself: 

On arriving at a country town in Spain, he engaged a 
room in one of the inns, and not finding water to wash 
his hands and face covered with perspiration and dust, 
after his journey, he called for some. On the following 
morning he felt unwelJ, as he had taken a slight fever, 
which confined him to his room for a week, at the expi- 
ration of which period he concluded to leave, and again 
called for water to wash with. " How is that V' res- 
ponded his hostess, " did you not wash yourself the day 
you arrived V 



LETTER XXXIY. 

Fright produced by a snake — Another by cockroaches — Ambuir 
las — Creole supper — Breakfast and dinner — Ajiaco — Wine 
and drunkards — Majarete 

You have not yet been informed, perhaps, of the fact, 
that the only poisonous animals in Cuba, are the the hairy 
spiders (arana peludaj ; for scorpions only produce with 
their bites a swelling of short duration which is readily 
cured by trifling application, or without any at all. I 
was not, however, quite sure of this at the beginning, and 
of this the girls took advantage one evening to give me a 
fright. 

As I went into my room to go to bed, I saw a large 
snake about eight feet long, and over two inches in diame- 
ter at the largest part of the body, coiled on the bed and 
with its head lying on my pillows. I could hardly res- 
train myself from uttering a cry, and could not help jump- 
ing backwards; and on reaching the door I was tempted 
to shut it, as the animal, on seeing me enter the room, 
raised its head more than a foot above the pillow, and I 
was afraid it might chase me, and bite three or four per- 
sons in the house. 

But at this instant a peal of laughter greeted me from 
the ladies who had been watching all my motions, and 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 203 

wlio thus punished my cowardice. I then learned, that 
shortly before my entering the room, a servant had gone 
in and left the snake on the bed. This was rather morti- 
fiyng to me, and I raised the animal on a stick and threw 
it out the window; but being told that it was necessary 
to kill it on account of its depradations on chickens and 
hens, I ran after it, and had the pleasure of revenging my- 
self on the poor creature for the fright it had so inno- 
cently caused me. 

The girls, liowever, were not allowed to remain unpu- 
nished. Joseito undertook to devise a suitable penatly, 
and carry it into execution. When we were taking our 
supper the next evening, he very quietly put on the shoul- 
der of each of them a cockroach, commonly called marti- 
net, though its proper name is cucaraclia. The scene that 
ensued was frightful, and cannot be described. Had the 
ladies been bitten by some of those East India snakes 
which effect almost instant death, they could not have 
cried more loudly, or twisted themselves more than they 
did when they felt these harmless insects. They tore off 
their dresses, jumped and shook themselves, and even 
after seeing tliem killed, thought they were still on them. 
It was not on account of fear, they said, but of aversion, 
that they had evinced such an intense disgust. One of 
them, who had touched one of the animals, washed her 
hands with soap two or three times, and none of them sat 
at the table after the occurrence. Joseito had to hide 
himself, and I laughed at first," but was afterwards seri- 
ously alarmed, fearing some one might have a fit. 

However, I did not fail to render due honor to my 
allowance of ambuilas, a name given to very thin fried 
slices of unripe bananas, of which I consumed a whole 
dish every evening, accompanied with a mixture of the 
savory white rice and a hash (aporreado) of moutton 



204 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

or beef; and also drank a mammoth cup of excellent milk r 
drawn from the cow before me, mixed with fine-flavored 
coffee. 

Our daily supper consisted of some other dishes besides 
those above named, and as they constitute what is called 
a Creole supper fCena criolla), I will give you a des- 
cription of them. 

I will first remark that bread was a rarity ; for every- 
body preferred green roasted bananas, or large half ripe 
ones, covered with lard or butter after being roasted. The 
other dishes were, salt beef from the Vuelta de Abajo, 
smoked pork, and chicharrones, or chacknels, made with 
the skin of the pig, well prepared and fried. They acquire 
a beautiful white color, and are so soft and brittle that they 
crumble to pieces as soon as they are put into the mouth. 
The hash was spread in the dish upon a piece of wet ca- 
sabe, forming together with the bananas an excellent 
substitute for bread : I liked it better when toasted. They 
also served an excellent dish called ropa vieja (old clo- 
thes ! ) made of beef covered with a savory sauce ; and 
also boiled eggs and Indian meal cakes. 

These suppers, it is easy to imagine, might well have 
produced serious indigestions ; and on some days more- 
over, minced meat, roast turkey, salads and several other 
articles with which families provide themselves in Ha- 
vana when going to the country, were added to our 
entertainment. The latter kind of supper is called of 
Nochc Buena, as it is served on Christmas eve, even in the 
houses that are not in the habit of taking supper. 

The Creole breakfast consists of pretty nearly the 
same articles I have named as served for the supper. 
Calf, or mouton tripe (mondongo) cooked with a variety 
of vegetables is also used, and a roast pig occasionally 
makes its appearance and produces a pleasant surprise. 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 205 

The Creole dinner, does not include what is called olla 
by Spaniards ; but they make another dish styled ajiaco, 
which has a similar appearance. It is formed by mixing 
a large number of articles which I will here mention, en- 
deavoring not to forget any, to enable you to form an idea 
of the composition. Salt beef, smoked pork, fresh pork, 
especially the tail, ham, black pudding, sausages, bacon, 
calf sfeet, sweet potatoes, yams, sweet yuca, green bana- 
nas and pumpkin. Cabbages, peas and kidney-beans are 
sometimes added to the already long list of components. 
The whole is placed in a very large and deep dish toge- 
ther with the sauce in which it has been cooked, and a 
piece of every thing is served to each person in a plate 
large enough to contain them. The variety of tastes forms 
a savory compound, and I have observed that it is used 
alternately with the olla, and is not very frequently serv- 
ed. The difference between this and the ajiaco is that 
the former must necessarily have Spanish peas, and that 
it does not contain so many kinds of meat. 

I have not spoken about the wine, which cannot be 
considered as a produce of the Island. I have been as- 
sured, however, that some efforts have been made to ma- 
nufacture it, and also that the grape grows pretty well: 
but the qualities I have seen are inferior to those of Euro- 
pe or the Canary Islands. Several years ago, wine was 
drawn from the pine-apple and other fruits, but the pro- 
cess has been discontinued, and there are even persons 
who are not aware of the fact. Formerly the zarabumbia 
was much used ; it was manufactured by properly brew- 
ing the juice of the sugar-cane (guarapo) ; and at the 
present time a drink like cider is made by filling a bottle 
with that juice as it leaves the mill, corking it tight, and 
keeping it for three days well covered with sand. If more 
than this time is allowed to elapse, it becomes sour and is 



200 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

entirely spoiled. The opening of the bottle produces the 
same noise as if it were of Champaigne. 

Tn many Creole houses no wine is served at breakfast 
or supper, but at dinner the French claret, or the Cata- 
lonian are always drunk, besides other kinds used with 
the dessert, and a small glass of spirits after the coffee. 

I will not dare to say that intemperance is as general as 
among us, because as we are called by the Spaniards 
"The drunkards," it is but natural to think that we pos- 
sess that quality in a greater degree than they do. If I 
am allowed, however, to state what I think and see, I 
will only say that there are many persons accustomed to 
get drunk with brandy or gin, and that the number of 
attendants who spend the whole lounging day at the bars, 
is by no means small. They commonly expect to be in- 
vited to drink by others, and this is frequently done on 
account of the cheapness of liquors. A bottle of aguar- 
diente de cana commonly costs only six pence. 

I cannot conclude this letter without speaking to you 
of a dish which may be called by antonomasia the true 
Creole. It is said that a certain Epicurean Clergyman, 
on his arrival from Spain, tasted it once, and was so pleas- 
ed, that he ordered his cook to serve it at all his meals. 
It is known by the name of majarete, and I will send you 
the receipt to make it, as soon as a collection which I am 
forming of Cuban dishes and sweet-meats shall be finish- 
ed. As it is made of green corn I think it might be had 
in New-York as well as here. 



LETTER XXXY. 

Moral education — Causes of its corruption — The Count's young 
mulatto — A Marquis — The father glutted and his family 
starving — Wicked influence of the government — Two great 
wants — Jesuits. 



The different works written on Cuba, acquaint us with 
the low state of education in general, scientific as well as 
religious. I will not, therefore, dwell upon this heart- 
breaking subject, sufficient of itself to make all generous 
minds in the world abhor a government, which not only 
disregards this important duty, but exerts a powerful 
opposition to all improvements, although hypocritically 
affecting to hold liberal views. 

But in none of those books have I read anything on the 
purely moral education of youth, and I herewith send 
you some of my observations on this highly important 
matter : — 

One evening it was said in our circle, that the Count 
* * * had purchased a mulatto boy often years of age, 
for the sole purpose of playing with and waiting on his 
son, who was then six years old. Both soon became 
aware of their respective positions, and as is easy to be 
conceived, the child exercised a wanton despotism over 
the slave, who, in order to avoid his anger was compelled 



208 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

to coax him, to conceal his tricks from the eyes of his pa- 
rents, and to aid him in deceiving them. What the cha- 
racter formed by such persons would be ; of what virtues 
they would be capable, and what vice would long remain 
unknown to them, may be readily imagined. 

This statement attracted my attention very particularly, 
and I was greatly shocked, when after inquiring minute- 
ly into the facts, I was convinced that the proceedings of 
the Count, assimilated to those of many other parents in 
proportion to their means. 

There is at present in Havana a Marquis, who is gene- 
rally considered a mere mass of wretchedness. He pos- 
sesses in my opinion, a portion of every existing vice, 
without the redeeming quality of a single virtue, to the 
existence of which, his nature appears estranged. When 
for the first time, I heard of this personage, I at once trac- 
ed the mischief to a defect in his education, and in this I 
did not mistake. His nurse had been a negress ; he had 
spent the greater part of hi», childhood in the kitchen, and 
had imbibed the feelings and sentiments of the slaves; he 
had not been willing to improve himself, and his teachers 
became tired, and lost all hopes of improving his intel- 
lectual capacity. His only propensity was to play with 
the young negroes, whom he flogged if they did not rea- 
dily yield to his commands ; he soon became a deceitful 
gambler, and ere long became dissatisfied with even the 
large sums which his father with a bountiful and inconsi- 
derate hand allowed him. He, therefore, began to steal 
from his father's safe what he needed to pay for the ser- 
vices of persons who were teaching him new vices, and 
procuring him the enjoyment of illicit pleasures. 

Though not above thirty, he looks like a worn out old 
man ; he is feeble and infirm ; has lost all memory, ener- 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 209 

gj and vigor ; is despised by everybody ; and being al- 
ready insensible to physical pleasures, he cannot enjoy 
any moral satisfaction ; unable, as he is, to remember a 
single praiseworthy work performed during his whole 
life. No credence whatever is given to his word, as he 
rarely speaks the truth, nor is any confidence placed in 
his promises. What can be the usefulness of such a 
being to mankind 1 What will be the condition of his 
children, if he has any ? 

T also very frequently see a married man, who to say 
the least of him, goes to take dinner with some of his 
more wealthy relatives, and there gluts himself with the 
most delicious viands, at the same time conscious of the 
existing privations and misery endured by his loving 
family at home. It is also said of him, that when his 
landlord calls to collect the rent, he becomes greatly ex- 
cited, and almost with sword in hand, alleges that being 
a nobleman, he must have a house to live in. His daugh- 
ters and sons as well as himself, being all noble, are thus 
prevented from working. The first named, are always 
confined to the house, and the windows closed so that 
those passing by may not see their ragged dresses. They 
hire servants to do their cooking, washing, &c, as it 
would be degrading to their character to perform these 
household duties; and when the month's pay is due, and 
they are unable to pay, they suffer unconcernedly the in- 
sults of their creditors. Meanwhile, the father goes 
around borrowing here and there a few dollars, though 
perfectly aware of his inability to repay them ; and from 
those persons whom he has once cheated, he asks money 
the second time not as a loan, but as an alms. It is necessary 
that all persons should contribute to afford a comfortable 
living to a nobleman, though he may not deserve to live. 
9* 



210 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

In these two instances that I have quoted, another 
powerful cause exerted its influence, viz. : bad example. 
The ancestors of these persons had been corrupt and 
wicked ; and it is almost impossible that anything but 
impurities should flow from an impure source. Even 
when parents are virtuous and honorable, the continual 
intercourse of children with slaves, must produce many 
evils ; and my friend Don Antonio, is so fully convinced 
of this, that his greatest exertions are directed to prevent 
as far as possible, this injurious, yet necessary intercourse, 
and also any intimacy which may spring up from it. No 
one of his children has a servant devoted especially to 
him, and the girls have not negresses of their own, a very 
rare occurrence in Havana, where there is scarcely a 
young lady that has not her confidential slave. 

Besides the wicked influence which slaves necessarily 
exert, there is another, and perhaps still more mischie- 
vous source of degradation to the Creole character. The 
Spanish government encourages immorality, rewards un- 
worthy Cubans, persecutes and despises all those who 
are worthy and honorable, and destroys all germs of 
goodness by the spectacle which it continually exhibits 
of corrupt officers occupying the highest ranks in society. 
The cock and bull fights, the indecent balls in the saloons 
known by the name of Sebastopol and Escauriza, are 
also encouraged. Two lawyers, universally hated, one 
on account of his infamous denunciations, and the other, 
by his degrading flatteries, are objects of governmental 
esteem, while men distinguished by their great talents and 
wisdom are threatened with accusations, and kept in fear 
by the thought of being tried by a Spanish Judge. 

These great evils, in the opinion of good Creoles, can- 
not be remedied until two of their principal causes are 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 211 

effectually removed : — the overthrow of the Spanish go- 
vernment, is one, and the most pressing want of the 
Island of Cuba : the abolition of slavery, is the other. 
Whether the former should be effected in an absolute 
manner, or by annexation to our Confederation, or to any 
other power ; and whether the latter should be accom- 
plished bv degrees, as is generally believed, or at once, 
it is not my business to consider now, nor are these last 
questions of a paramount importance. Let the Cubans 
acquire their liberty, which can never be obtained by 
money, but with blood, and after becoming freemen, let 
them deliberate upon what is most expedient for them. 
Let them do it soon, also, for the people will be more cor- 
rupt every day, and therefore less worthy and capable of 
enjoying the blessings of self-government. 

There are fortunately many Cubans, who like Don An- 
tonio, endeavor with all their might to counteract the 
mischievous effects of such a regime. They have already 
discovered, that the views of the government are trea- 
cherous, and they refuse to swallow the bait of the Jesuits, 
and other lures of this description by which unwary peo- 
ple are caught ; or to send their children to learn the 
degradation and the adoration of despots, which the crafty 
disciples of Loyola inculcate on their tender minds. It is 
truly painful to witness the spectacle exhibited by the 
crowds of innocent youth who attend that impure school. 
I entertain, however, the consolatory hope, that the efforts 
of wickedness will not suffice to arrest the torrent of just 
and true ideas, and the whirlwind of the revolution. 



LETTER XXXVI, 

The girls tired of being in the country — Don Tomas, the eccentric 
— A degraded personnage — The accomplished Royalist — 
High price of sugar the sole want of this personnage — True 
Nobility — Don Jose Entralgo — His honesty. 

After being eight days on the plantation, the girls be- 
came tired, and did not wish to remain longer. On their 
arrival, they seemed so displeased with the Capital, and 
the most insignificant trifle in the country so delighted 
them, that I thought they would stay more than the week 
they at first contemplated, and I even imagined (juvenile 
illusion ! ) that perhaps some attachment to my person 
aided that enthusiasm. But as soon as the excitement of 
the first moments was over, they began to miss the noise 
and bustle of the City, and even the shouts of the pedlars 
passing through the streets ; and they soon became weary 
of the monotony of our life and the silence of our quarters. 

Some excitement, however, was produced on the last 
day by the unexpected arrival of a nephew of the old 
lady. He was on his way to Havana, and stopped to ac- 
company the family on their return, which was to take 
place the next day. This person being of an original type, 
I shall attempt a description of his visit, hoping it may 
prove an amusement to you, equal to the delight his short 
residence afforded me. 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 213 

As soon as Joseito saw him coming, lie remarked that 
we were going to have fun, but advised me not to laugh 
very loud, as he was very escamon (resentful). He also 
stated that he never troubled himself to speak the truth, 
and that he was always endeavoring to hide his great 
stinginess and stupidity by means of cunning tricks, and 
that he was generally considered the most ridiculous per- 
son in existence. The young ladies began to laugh and 
were preparing themselves for a great display of follies 
and eccentricities ; and their mother said, smiling, that we 
must have some regard for the person, not on account of 
any good quality which he might possess, but only in pity 
for the meanness with which he had been endowed by 
nature. 

Having arrived early in the morning, he had time 
enough, before going to breakfast, to tell several false- 
hoods about the large crop he expected to gather, the 
wonderful fertility of his lands, &c, and as soon as we 
sat down at the table, the fun commenced. He said that 
the taste of mutton was disgusting, and that he, not only 
did not like it, but could ascertain by the smell alone, 
where a dish of mutton was, though one hundred yards 
distant. At the same time, he was devouring a hash made 
of it, and said that that corned beef was very good. On 
hearing this, we could scarcely restrain ourselves from 
laughing. 

Joseito then observed to Don Tomas, for such was his 
name, that he had no watch, and advised him to buy one. 
Don Tomas quickly replied, that he did not need one, be- 
cause he knew the time by the position of the sun and 
the stars. " And besides," he observed, " a watch is a 
great annoyance, for it shows the gradual extinction of 
its owner's life." His only true objection, however, was 
the cost of the article. 



214 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

The youngest girl, knowing that his knowledge of 
orthography was not very intimate, put a question to him 
on punctuation, adding that her brother had not been able 
to answer it. Don Tomas then replied in a tone of self- 
importance that it was an impoliteness to make use of 
signs of punctuation, as they point out to the reader the 
place where he was to stop, which evidently presupposes 
that he does not know how to do it. At this, we all burst 
into loud laughter, knowing that his true reason for ex- 
presing this opinion was to conceal his ignorance ; but he 
did not feel abashed. 

Joseito spoke about Astronomy, and feigning ignorance, 
asked him whether he believed that the Earth was al- 
ways changing its position or not. He laughed contemp- 
tuously at the idea, and replied that all that was nonsense- 
The Filibuster then began to adduce the proofs of his 
assertion offering to convince him, but his opponent said, 
"that fools, only could change the opinions they had once 
entertained, and that as he did not belong to that class, it 
was impossible to convince him." He added, "All your 
reasonings would be useless." 

The above propositions will suffice as specimens of 
many others which he maintained during his stay with 
us. Had not I seen this living wonder, I could never 
have believed that such ignorance and arrogance could 
be united with such wanton and foolish pride, and such a 
lack of good principles, in a person of his social condi- 
tion. In order to give you an idea of his feelings, I will 
only say that while in Havana his family does not incur 
any expense, as his father-in-law provides for them all ; 
and that he is accustomed to buy every day sixpence 
worth of fruits, and lock himself up in a room to eat them 
without giving a morsel to his wife or children. 

His cowardice is almost beyond description. While on 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 215 

his estate, he does not dare even to give orders to the 
overseer ; and if he ever proposes anything, it is always 
an absurdity, and the overseer laughs and pays no atten- 
tion to his words. When he wants to discharge any of 
his workmen, he does it by a letter which he writes from 
Havana, as he fears that on hearing the order verbally 
given, the workman would answer him with a blow. 

Whenever he relates any event, and perceives incredu- 
lity in the audience, he adds : " I saw it," though the 
thing in itself might be absurd or impossible. This pro- 
cedure admits of only two remedies : either to disregard 
his assertions, or to knock him down, an extremity to 
which more than one of his hearers has been tempted to 
recur. 

The old lady had advised me not to speak a single 
word of politics before him, as she was afraid that not- 
withstanding their relationship, he would apprise the 
government of everything he heard, and perhaps greatly 
exaggerate it, for slander had become one of his habits, 
and he could never relate what had taken place exactly. 
Joseito wished, however, to afford me an opportunity of 
knowing the degradation of such a man, and I asked him 
what he knew about the picaros (villainous) pirates. He 
then began to speak, and exhibited proofs of the most ab- 
ject servility. The Queen, was in his opinion, a kind of 
divinity ; he regarded all allusions to misconduct in her 
as groundless ; he rebutted all charges preferred against 
the Captain- Generals and other crown officials who had 
abused their power ; and when notorious and well attest- 
ed misdemeanors were referred to, he exclaimed empha- 
tically, ''falsehood /" 

During the whole conversation, no generous ideas, no 
liberal opinions, nor even humane feelings were heard 
from his mouth. All his aspirations seemed absorbed in 



216 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

the high prices of sugar ; his particular benefit was the 
only apparent object in view. He said there ought to 
exist incessant peace and tranquillity, in order to promote 
the influx of vessels to the harbor, which was, in his opi- 
nion the only cause of the rise of prices ; as if the rates 
ruling the foreign markets did not exert any influence 
upon prices in Havana. 

We were also not a little alarmed, on hearing him de- 
clare, that everybody was under obligations to denounce 
traitors; by which term we learned he designated all 
those who spoke against the Spanish government, and as 
we surmised, he regarded as intrusive revolutionists. 

He pretended to belong to the highest nobility, because 
a certain king addressed to one of his ancestors certain 
flattering expressions, which at present I do not recollect. 
Undoubtedly well aware of his total want of personal 
merit, he said that the Spanish proverb — " The person 
who was born noble, is not thereby a gentleman," was 
pure nonsense. 

He thought there were only three classes of respecta- 
ble people — those having riches, those having titles given 
by the government, and those of illustrious birth, though 
they might have obtained their money and titles by tricks 
and frauds, or be loaded with vices and crimes. An anec- 
dote which the lady related, afforded him an opportunity 
of explaining these sentiments. The occurrence being 
a rare one, I will narrate it, and you will thereby be able 
to see that if there are in Cuba degraded and corrupt 
characters like that of Don Tomas, others deserve our 
highest esteem and admiration. 

A widower named Jose Entralgo, lived with a son 
about ten years old, in rather afflicted circumstances. On 
the death of the godfather of the boy, his will was exa- 
mined, and Entralgo was found to have been appointed 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 217 

the only heir of his property, amounting to three hundred 
thousand dollars, almost all in cash. He engaged exten- 
sively in the business of discounting paper, but continued 
to live as poorly as before, by which course he came to 
be regarded as a very covetous man. After the lapse of 
three years, he went before Judge Suarez, accompanied 
hy a young man, and deposed in legal form, that in accor- 
dance with oral instructions which he had received from 
the deceased, it was his duty to give to the youth, as 
soon as he should reach the age of twenty-five, which 
time had now arrived, the $300,000 inherited, less ten 
thousand, which the defunct bequeathed to his godson, 
and five thousand to himself. 

The wonder and astonishment of the Judge, the per- 
sons present, and the young man who was about to re- 
ceive the benefit, and who was probably an illegiti- 
mate son of the deceased, on witnessing this proof of 
shining honesty, was beyond description; and the admi- 
ration of the young man became greater still, when En- 
tralgo placed in his hands not only the amount of the ca- 
pital, but also a considerable sum which -it had accumula- 
ted while in his possession, besides a minute and accurate 
account of his administration. The wishes of the deceas- 
ed were entirely unknown to any other person but En- 
iralgo, and he might easily, if inclined to do so, have ap- 
plied the whole property to his own use. 

Don Tomas then said, that he had certainly heard the 
story; that he knew Entralgo, and that no one but a 
beast, such as he was, would have been guilty of such 
folly. 

I was tempted to throw my plate in his face. A gene- 
ral groan accompanied by contemptuous looks, was the 
reception given to his villainous assertion. 

10 



LETTER XXXVII. 

Return to the Capital — A bad custom of New-York — The Catho- 
lic Churches of the Empire city — The Churches of Havana — 
Novenas — Calambucos — Papists — Procession of the Viaticum — 
Misdemeanors at Church — Bad Preachers. 

Early in t.ie morning of tne following day, my hosts 
started for Havana. The circumstance of the arrival of 
Don Tonus, enabled Joseito to stay with me some days, 
which we employed in several little excursions; and 
afterwards we also returned to the Capital through dis- 
tricts which I had never seen, and which afforded me good 
opportunities of completing my knowledge on several 
points already treated. 

As the weather was rather cool, the general opinion 
was, that the danger of the yellow fever had passed, and 
this was the reason why I did not hesitate to return to 
Havana, and take up my quarters at my recomendado's, 
who did not allow me to go again to the hotel. The 
pressing requests of Joseito compelled me to accept his 
kind invitation. 

I shall now enter, therefore, upon the description of 
my impressions of the Capital, and upon the development 
of the useful and interesting information gathered from 
the conversation of the persons alluded to in some of my 
former letters. These impressions will not, however, be 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 219 

related in strict chronological order to avoid numerous 
repetitions. 

I will first speak of a Creole who had just arrived from 
New- York, where he had spent the whole summer and 
fall. He was delighted with the country in general, and 
especially with the enviable freedom enjoyed there. 
Nevertheless, he complained loudly against two customs. 
He said that our young ladies are a little too open-heart- 
ed ; that after being acquainted for a short time with a 
young man, they require him to invite them to ride, to go 
to theatres, or to costly lunches or suppers at Taylor's. 

He also added that he was greatly surprised at these 
exactions, as here, not only are young ladies never seen 
doing thus, but a powerful motive is always required to 
inducfe them to accept such invitations, or even the most 
trifling present. He said that there was a young lady in 
the boarding house where he stopped, who spent more 
of his money than he could easily spare, and he was, there- 
fore, obliged to leave the city. 

His other complaints were directed against the rules 
established at the Catholic Churches there. The preach- 
er of a certain Church, he stated, has no other subject for 
his sermons than asking money from the brethren for 
the service, and threatening those who do not yield 
to the request with sure condemnation. He also said 
that those who did not pay could get no seats ; and 
this surely must have seemed shocking to our nar- 
rator, for such is never the case in Havana. Lastly, 
he told us that many Catholics in New- York prefer to go 
to Protestant Churches, as he did during the last months 
of his residence there, in order to avoid expense. I am 
unable to decide upon the truthfulness of this last asser- 
tion ; should you consider it worth wh^s to inquire, your 
facilities for doing so are far superior to mine. 



220 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

I think, however, that the rules observed in the afore- 
said Church, are not enforced in other temples of that 
city. I have been several times in Saint Ann's, near the 
Bible House, and I was never required to pay for my 
seat ; but on my going once into the German Catholic 
Church in Third street, the sexton came and spoke to me 
in German, and on hearing that I could not reply in his 
own language, he asked in English for the price of admis- 
sion, without which he would not have allowed me to 
remain. 

Catholics, in this country at least, do not pay much 
attention to religious services on the Sabbath. Churches, 
indeed, are opened at sunrise, but there is no service after 
twelve o'clock, and they are seen crowded only when 
extraordinary masses are celebrated, and good music is 
to be enjoyed. I have often seen a dozen persons only 
attending, and not over one hundred are ever seen during 
the common service, if we except two or three particular 
Churches at a certain hour of the day. As far as I have 
been able to observe, the whole Sunday service is here 
completed during the fifteen or twenty minutes that the 
mass lasts, and there is no other during the rest of the 
day, which is devoted to parties, excursions, dinners, and 
all kinds of amusements. Theatres are generally more 
crowded then, than on any other day during the week. 

Besides the Sundays, there are many other holidays 
throughout the year, marked in the almanac with a 
cross during which it is allowed to work after attending 
mass, and are called de media, fiesta ( half holidays ). 
Others are marked with two crosses, and during these, 
labor of all kinds is forbidden, and they are styled de fies- 
ta entera (whole holidays). The attendance at church is 
so limited during the first named, that it might be called 
none, and I have been entirely alone in the Cathedral, on 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 221 

several occasions during the hours of regular service. I 
believe, therefore, that I can confidently assert that in 
Havana, as well as in all other places in the Island where 
I have been, there is no devotion. I will here, however, 
refer to some exceptions to this general rule, which I have 
also observed. 

Some families are in the habit of exercising prayers, 
(novenasj, imploring favors of the Virgin and the Saints, 
which are continued for nine days. To effect this, the 
image of the saint is placed between two lighted wax 
candles, and the people kneel down before it, and recite 
certain prayers corresponding to that day, contained in a 
pamphlet. Other families pray the trisagion, with the 
chorus of "holy, holy, holy !" whenever there is a severe 
storm, to escape the thunderbolts, which in the rainy sea- 
son fall with a frequency truly frightful. 

Another exception to the general rule of the want of 
devotion should be mentioned. There is a class of per- 
sons who go to church very frequently, attend several 
masses every day throughout the year, never fail to go to 
the Circular, a service performed every afternoon in the 
church of the city whose turn it is, and endeavor to place 
themselves in the most conspicuous spot of the building, 
extending their arms, and giving proofs of having their 
minds absorbed in deep religious implorations. 

Many of these persons are, undoubtedly, truly sincere, 
but in general, I do not consider those who make such a 
display worthy of confidence. Don Antonio asserts, that 
there are many persons who believe, that by attending 
mass in the morning, and beating their breasts, they ob- 
tain forgiveness for every transgression they commit dur- 
ing the day. He also pointed out to me one of these hy- 
pocrites, who had stationed himself in the chancel of the 
church called La Salud, where every one could easily 



222 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

see him : he was on his knees, bent to the ground, with 
his arms extended. This man was a regular scoundrel. 

It is said that a certain Colonel named Fuero, was not 
satisfied with doing this, but in order to edify the public, 
caused his calesero (driver), to place himself behind him 
with his arms stretched also ; after which he went to the 
Court of the Military Commission, of which he was a mem- 
ber, slept soundly during the examinations and other pro- 
ceedings of a case on trial, and then voted for the death 
of the prisoner, when his fellow-judges voted for four or 
six years' imprisonment. 

Persons of the aforesaid habits, are designated by the 
name of calambucos, a Spanish word applied to the gum- 
tree, called Callophyllum calaba, whose similarity to 
them I have not been able to perceive. 

My opinion in regard to the religious feelings of the 
Cubans is, that they are Jess devoted partizans of the Pope 
than any other Catholics, as they neither believe in the 
infallibility of the Roman pontiff, nor buy any bulls ex- 
cept that called of the dead., without which no consecrat- 
ed grave is allowed to any person. They do not gene- 
rally believe the miracles imputed to saints, and it is a 
common occurrence to laugh at them. Some persons, 
however, still worship the images of the Virgins of Cha- 
rity, of the Cobre, &c. 

It is known that the Catholic Church requires its mem- 
bers to confess their sins, and receive the Communion at 
least once in the year ; but according to the information I 
have gathered on this point, few persons of either sex 
comply with this command at all, and fewer still do it 
within the prescribed time. The boxes (co?ifesionariosJ, 
in the churches provided for the confessions are always 
seen empty ; and I have also perceived that the Commu- 
nion is very seldom administered. 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 223 

Persons on the approach of death, receive this sacra- 
ment in their beds with imposing ceremonies. The friends 
and relatives of the sick walk from church to the house 
with their heads uncovered and a wax candle in hand, on 
both sides of the carriage in which the Priest takes The 
Very Holy (El Santisimo). A young man from among 
those present sometimes acts as driver, and the procession 
is preceded by a boy ringing a large bell. Many families 
do not use a new carriage until it has been once employ- 
ed in this kind of procession. 

If they pass before a guard-room, two soldiers join 
them, and the others kneel down, take off their caps, place 
their guns with the barrel downwards, and beat the drum 
as long as the carriage is seen from the place. All per- 
sons met with in the streets, kneel down also, and those 
who go in carriages, stop, leave' them, and spreading their 
handkerchiefs on the ground, kneel down also. The 
people in their houses all along the route of procession do 
the same, bearing lighted candles to their windows and 
balconies while -the procession is in progress of passing. 

The room of the sick person is meanwhile ornamented 
in the best possible manner. An altar is temporarily 
erected for the performance of the service. As many of 
the suile as possible, go into the room with their lighted 
candies, and bend their knees while Communion is admi- 
nistered. The procession then returns to church in the 
same manner, though through different streets, in order 
to make the ceremony as public as possible. 

On these occasion more devotion and piety are observed 
than at any other service, not excepting the mass. Indeed, 
I think that during the celebration of this latter, many 
young men endeavor to show their contempt for religious 
ceremonies, if one may judge by their behavior while in 
church. They talk all the time, laugh and even criticize 



224 LETTERS FROM CUFA. 

the ceremonies. I have often been tempted myself to 
follow their example when they scoff at the preachers, be- 
cause as the clergy unfortunately, are neither upright nor 
temperate, their admonitions to the purity of customs and 
the practice of virtue are a continual censure of their own 
conduct, and often recalled to my mind that saying, "Do 
what I bid you, and not what you see me practising." 

Their sermons besides, are often ridiculous and in "bad 
taste, and finally, many priests urged by the government 
take advantage of their position to inculcate on the minds 
of their congregations, in a very crafty manner, the love 
of despotic ideas and the hatred of liberal institutions. 
Young men have no other means of protesting against 
the abuse than mocking, and I, therefore, should not be 
very severe in my criticism of their behavior. 

The appearance of the city on Sundays, is not like that 
presented by our community in general. The number 
and noise of carriages is less than on secular days, but 
markets and stores of several kinds are kept open. In the 
afternoons, a general merriment and good humor is every- 
where manifested. 



LETTER XXXYIII. 

Promenades in Havana — Interference of the government — Soldiers 
beating negroes — Expense of keeping a carriage — Fashion- 
able visits — Smoking — Soirees — Balls — Asaltos — A chicken 
Anew Countess 

The place in the city which presents the most lively 
appearance on Sunday afternoons, is the promenade fpa- 
seoj of Isabel II, where a military band of music is station- 
ed on Court-days fdias de gala). It consist of three 
tracks designed for carriages, of which the middle one is 
wider than the others, and two walks for pedestrians. 
They are separated from each other by trees and stone 
seats, and extend* over a mile in length. 

On these occasions vehicles proceed slowly one after 
another, lining both sides of the avenue, so that while 
those on one side go in one direction, those on the other 
come in the opposite one. They reach sometimes from 
the fountain called the "Indian fountain" to the vicinity 
of the jail, the whole length of the promenade. 

Two and sometimes three persons, who are commonly 
young ladies beautifully, though not expensively dressed, 
ride in each carriage, saluting with their fans their friends 
who are returning on the opposite side of the way. The 
walks on both sides of the principal causeway are crowd- 



226 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

ed with old and young men, who either walk up or down, 
or stand still to look at the passing quitrines, and some- 
times throw flower's or confectionaries to their female 
friends in the vehicles. 

But even in this harmless and inoffensive amusement 
the government has not failed to show itself, fearing per- 
haps, that the people would forget for a moment thai they 
were slaves. Whether this, or the desire of mingling in 
every thing — cacoethes gubernandi — is the true cause, the 
fact is, that under the pretence of keeping good order, it 
makes a show of its power there, by the display of armed 
force, which cannot but imbitter the merriment of those 
present. 

At short distances mounted soldiers are stationed, who, 
by means of blows with the sword or lance, prevent the 
drivers from separating from the line, or turning round 
except at particular places. Very often the driver is seen 
receiving the blows, while the ladies inside are frighten- 
ed and in tears at such abusive conduct. In order to en- 
force the improprieties of those insolent horsemen, a re- 
serve of twelve or more, with a chief at their head, is 
placed near the Tacon theatre. While every carriage is 
strictly kept in line, the Captain GeneVal freely enters 
the promenade at full speed with his guard of five pike- 
men, and passing between the two lines of carriages, re- 
ceives with a ridiculous gravity the salutations of the 
people, which he sometimes returns in a haughty and 
almost contemptuous manner. 

At five or six o'clock in the afternoon, the carriages 
are seen leaving the doors of the houses and the livery- 
stables. Those persons who live within the walls now 
go outside, and the city is left to a few lonely pedestrians, 
who stroll through the walk called Alameda de Paula. 
The road called Calzada del Monte, as well as Queen 



LETTERS PROM CUBA. 227 

street, are then seen crowded with carriages going to the 
village of Cerro ; and on their return these take one or 
two turns around the Paseo. 

The use of coaches and light wagons has become very 
general of late years. They formerly were very seldom 
seen on account of the bad state of the streets, which im- 
parted a shaking motion even to two wheeled vehicles. 
The expense incurred in keeping a carriage is not great, 
and hence their abundance. The maintenance of the 
horse is almost the only item, as all houses have a small 
stable, and the driver is generally the cook, or acts in some 
other household capacity. The cost of a good carriage 
is about five hundred dollars, and that of a common horse, 
from eighty-five to one hundred and twenty, so that in- 
cluding the harnesses, liveries and other articles, the entire 
outlay does not exceed eight hundred dollars. The appear- 
ance of these vehicles is striking to the eye, on account 
of the many peculiarities which they possess — the large 
diameter of their wheels, the great length of the axle- 
trees, the enormous size of the poles, which almost per- 
mit another horse to be placed behind the one which 
draws the wagon, and above all, the circumstance of the 
driver being mounted on the animal. 

After dark, when this ride is completed, the residents 
outside of the walls, are accustomed to enter the city and 
ride through a few streets, visit their friends, take ice 
creams, &c. The ladies, on these latter occasions, ob- 
serve the same rules as when shopping : the carriage stops 
at the door of the saloon, and the waiter takes to them 
what they wish. I think it would be quite a punishment 
for our ladies to follow the habits observed by those of 
Havana; deprived, as the latter are, of many enjoyments. 
They never enter public buildings; and I dare say, there is 
not a single Creole lady who has seen in all her life the 



228 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

Library of the Economical Society, for instance, in Saint 
Philip's Convent. 

The hour for paying visits among fashionable ladies, is 
shortly after dark. In the parlors of the one story houses, 
a double row of arm and rocking-chairs, are placed on both 
sides of a window, or of a sofa in those of two or three 
stories. A piece of carpet is sometimes spread on the 
floor, but covering only a part of it. As soon as one or 
more ladies make their appearance, the company stand 
up, and the visitor kisses once on each cheek all her fe- 
male acquaintances in the circle, receiving the same com- 
pliment from them. Then they shake hands with the fe- 
male strangers, and bow to the gentlemen. If the visitor 
is a gentleman, the ladies remain in their seats ; and only 
in case he is a relation, or a very old friend of the family, 
will the matron of the house shake hands with him. When 
a lady retires, one of the gentlemen present offers his arm, 
to wait upon her down the stairs, and help her into the 
carriage, for which trouble she will return a compliment, 
saying, muchas gracias (thank you). 

If the gentleman of the house is present, he will proba- 
bly offer segars to his friends, and they will smoke them 
in the presence of the ladies, they finding no fault with 
this, and perhaps do not at all dislike the smoke ; for 
though it is by no means true that all Cuban ladies smoke, 
as is asserted by many travellers, yet the custom is pretty 
general. Those who do so, are very careful, concealing 
the smell effectually, and using only three or four segars 
in a day, which they smoke when alone in their rooms. 

Parties or soirees, as they are called here, after the 
French name, take place as frequently as among our own 
people. If there is a piano in the house, and any one is 
able to play on it, a ball is quickly made i<p, and when 
there is a scarcity of gentlemen, the ladies dance with each 



LETTERS PROM CUBA. 229 

other. The Creole dances are commonly resorted to, and 
I like them all the better, because there are no difficult 
paces, nor violent postures; they consist almost entirely 
in walking in different directions. 

In fashionable balls, ladies and gentlemen wear all the 
jewels they have ; the former use silk dresses and beauti- 
ful head ornaments, and the latter pantaloons and coats 
of black cloth. The band of music is so numerous on 
such occasions, that they occupy a large space ; but the 
most shocking feature in the whole affair, is the sight of 
the regimentals, and the base homage rendered to the 
Captain General when present. At midnight, a. splendid 
supper (ambigu), is served, and ice-creams and sweet- 
meats are profusely distributed. Opportunities of this 
kind, are the only ones offered to ladies to display their 
jewels, as costly dresses and expensive toilets for other 
occasions are not a la mode. 

With a view to avoid the great cost of these parties, 
asaltos (surprises), have been invented. Several persons 
of either sex go to the house of a common friend, who is 
supposed to be entirely unaware of the plan, and ask him 
to furnish music for them to dance by. This affair hav- 
ing the appearance of unexpectedness, no sumptuous pre- 
parations are made ; the duty of inviting all one's acquaint- 
ances is avoided; and more than all, the attendance of the 
authorities is avoided. 

As T have not related for some time any of the witty 
anecdotes from Don Placido's inexhaustible depository, 
I will here give you one or two on the subject now under 
discussion. The first occurred at a magnificent ball which 
took place on board of one of the large three-decked Spa- 
nish war vessels lying in the harbor of Havana. The 
story it will be seen, is very old, as the event happened 
at a period when Spain had that class of vessels. The 



230 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

Marquis Duchesne, father of the Admiral, who died a few- 
months ago in this city, was one of the guests. He under- 
took to carry home with him a roast chicken, which he 
succeeded in artfully abstracting from the table. He was 
an exceedingly stingy man, and his wife, who was also 
known everywhere for her unsurpassed attainments in the 
exercise of penurious meannesss, advised him to conceal 
it in his hat. The Marquis was in the act of leaving the 
ship, when he unhappily stumbled and fell, his hat rolled 
off on the deck, the chicken issued from it, and was seen 
by all present, who indulged in loud and prolonged 
laughter. 

The other story is different and more recent. The 
Countess-dowager of La Reunion, who died a short time 
ago, bought, together with her title, a complete silver 
dinner set, and invited all her friends to a sumptuous de- 
jeuner. A lady belonging to one of the old aristocratic 
families, who had been present on that occasion, some 
time afterwards invited the new Countess to a similar re- 
past, and in the course of the conversation the latter lady 
remarked to her hostess that her silver dishes and spoons 
were not according to the latest fashions. "No wonder," 
replied the lady, "I have inherited them from my ances- 
tors." This answer was very much applauded in Hava- 
na, and this evinces, I believe, the preference given to the 
old nobility over those newly constituted. 



LETTER XXXIX. 

What is Aristocracy in Havana 1 — Immorality not punished — 
Democratic movements — Exciting stories — Pater est quern 
nuptice demonstrant — Easy manner of ascertaining the truthful- 
ness of these stories. 

Aristocracy, as the terra is understood here, is one of 
the things which I consider most difficult to explain. If 
*t is defined as proceeding from that old inherited nobi- 
lity of which I spoke in my last letter, I could cite many 
instances of people who are ge'nerally considered as be- 
longing to that class, but who on the other hand, are de- 
signated by public opinion, as having sprung from humble 
ancestors ; so humble indeed, that even mulattoes are 
counted among them ; while the right of ranking with 
the aristocracy, is denied to some who are descendants 
from illustrious parents, and who possess the true nomen- 
clature of noble origin. 

The same might be said in regard to riches. Many 
poor families have such exalted ideas, that they will not 
hesitate to invite to their parties all those persons who, 
on account of their birth, can contribute to give brilliancy 
to their circle, but will strenuously refuse to admit wealthy 
and otherwise respectable people, if they be not consider- 
ed of a noble origin. 



232 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

The aristocracy of science, I believe, has never existed, 
nor are any hopes entertained of its ever being establish- 
ed ; and as to that of virtue, my friends think that it will 
be almost impossible to form it. One of the most power- 
ful reasons they allege, and one which in my opinion is 
conclusive, is that persons of vicious character are admit- 
ted as visitors in the best families, and though an univer- 
sal cry be raised • against the assertion, I believe it, be- 
cause experience has taught me its truthfulness. I have 
been obliged to meet in circles which are styled "select," 
with a man who had failed twice, an occurrence which is 
here considered as a public swindle — also with a forger, 
who boasted of his conduct, which fact seemed to prove 
that he had no fear of incurring any public contempt — 
also, with a married man, who a few years before had 
eloped with a female cousin of his — and finally with a 
Judge who was publicly considered as a robber. 

I have also seen in "select society," women who were 
generally reputed as being of bad character; and what is 
most singular, is, that mafiy notoriously virtuous mothers, 
do not hesitate to cultivate their acquaintance, and allow 
their daughters to visit them. These women are cer- 
tainly few, and well known, for the generality of Cuban 
ladies, as I have before remarked, are honorable and 
pure. Good mothers endeavor, besides, to excite the 
scorn of their children towards these, persons, by censur- 
ing their behavior, and many such characters retire volun- 
tarily from intercourse with respectable people, and fre- 
quent only the society of those who agree with them in 
opinion. 

I believe, however, that public comtempt is a neces- 
sary remedy for the amelioration of corrupt morals ; but 
if it be manifested only in private, while the person deserv- 
ing it is welcome and apparently respected in public, 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 233 

little effect will be produced. Intercourse with that kind 
of persons must be entirely suspended ; otherwise no 
hopes can be confidently entertained of that desirable im- 
provement taking place. 

The necessary requisite to allow persons to mingle 
among the aristocracy, according to the general belief, is 
that their ancestors, on their arrival in the country, should 
have been distinguished persons (de visoj ; and such a 
name is either given to a wealthy man, or to a real and 
well known nobleman, or at least to a person filling a 
high and important station. If their first appearance was 
miserable, they will not be considered as aristocrats, no 
matter what degree of riches, what number of titles, or 
what important offices they may afterwards obtain. 

The leading subject of conversation being commonly 
the genealogy of persons in any way remarkable, their 
origin and claims are always looked for and discovered. 
This opinion seems to be supported by a fact of very 
frequent occurrence : when the award of any title of nobi- 
lity is published in the papers, the person in whose favor 
the distinction has been made, may be assured that in all 
circles, his origin and the condition of his ancestors are 
sought after, and if there was among them any Spaniard 
who came to Cuba poor and obscure, or any person whose 
claims to a purely Caucasian origin are not well founded, 
it will become widely known, though ages may have 
elapsed since the occurrence. 

Though well aware of the truth of these facts, I will not 
alter in the least the opinion set forth in the first para- 
graph of this letter* and the only satisfactory explanation 
of the enigma would be, to suppose that all the descend- 
ants of those who were once noble, are also noble, though 
they may have degenerated, or fallen from their former 
rank. Such is the case with illegitimate children of no- 

10* 



234 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

blemen, who are respected everywhere, though their mo- 
thers belonged to the lowest grade of the populace. 

It is, indeed, exceedingly ridiculous that a person should 
lay claim to the esteem and consideration of mankind on 
the ground of the merits of his ancestors, without any re- 
gard to his own ; and it is not less so, that another should 
be called noble from the mere fact of having kept a gene- 
alogy which begins with the first of his predecessors who 
did some good thing, taking for granted that it was good, 
which is not always the case : — 

Le premier qui fut roi, fut un soldat heureux ; 
Qui sert bien son pays, n'a pas besoin d'aieux. 

Voltaire. 

The above remarks should not lead us to the conclusion 
that there are no exceptions to such an aristocratical extra- 
vagance, which, as you know, is by no means uncommon 
in our own country. These exceptions are more numerous 
than at first sight might appear, despite the efforts of the 
government to promote and encourage divisions of any 
kind whatever among their subjects. My opinion is 
grounded on what I have witnessed of various democra- 
tical tendencies among the people, which are very promi- 
nent, and which might be greatly increased, were that 
disposition of the government entirely suppressed. This 
might be done very effectually now, that the new Consti- 
tution of Spain acknowledges the principle of equality be- 
fore the law, because nobility cannot be of any practical 
advantage. 

The matter treated of in this letter, recalls to my mind 
several stories, which might be styled thrilling; but I 
shall forbear their recital lest my letters should be desig- 
nated by the same name. From among them, however, 
one must be related, as it will afford you an opportunity 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 235 

of becoming acquainted with the existence of a very sin- 
gular law. 

A very handsome woman married about twenty years 
ago a Spaniard, who not wishing to suffer any longer the 
effrontery of his unfaithful wife, went back to his native 
country at the end of three years, leaving behind him two 
children. His wife has never left the Island, and he never 
returned; but the number of children is continually increas- 
ing ; and all, amounting already to half a dozen, bear his 
name, because, according to the Spanish law, — " Pater 
est quern nwptim demonstrant." 

Among the admirers of this new Ann Boleyn, was a 
married man, who was indebted to his virtuous wife for 
his own welfare, and whose life he embittered in return 
for the benefits received. She was revenged, however* 
by her rival, who treated her unworthy husband in the 
most contemptuous manner, so that he sometimes wept 
like a child, and basely entreated her not to abandon him. 

I jperceive, that the method which I follow of conceal- 
ing names, thrOugh christian charity, might lead you to 
doubt the truth of my assertions. You may, nevertheless, 
test their accuracy by inquiring of any well-informed in- 
habitant of Havana, who will not only confirm them, but 
will also probably designate at once the names which I 
do not publish, except when it seems to me to be neces- 
sary. 



LETTER XL. 

Cuban hospitality — Bad behavior of a Yankee — Sycophants — Modern 
Pythagoras — Mariano Lassaleta — Eleven years of full board 
for nothing — Fashionable dinner parties — Enna's knowledge 
of Geography — O'Donnell's poverty — Breakfasts and din- 



On several occasions I have spoken to you of the gene- 
rous Cuban hospitality, which, according to historians, 
was observed in the aborigines of this Island. Since my 
arrival in the country, I have been enjoying its pleasant 
advantages, and the friendly and liberal opposition of Don 
Antonio, has always prevented me from taking my abode 
at the hotel, which I intended doing several times, fearing 
to abuse his kindness. 

I dwell upon this matter again, because I want to ac- 
quaint you with a fact, which was recently related to me 
about the procedure of one of our countrymen, whose be- 
havior in remuneration for similar benefits deserves our 
severest censure. This gentleman comes every year from 
the States, and stays three or four months at the residence 
of a Cuban friend, who gives him a well furnished room 
in his own house, and excellent meals, and devotes a ser- 
vant to wait exclusively on him, without having ever 
charged a single farthing, or received from him the small- 
est present. The Cuban and his lady recently passed on 
their way to Europe, through the city where his friend 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 237 

resides in a splendid and comfortable house; and the only 
service received from him, was being recommended to a 
hotel where they were lodged, and where they paid in 
proportion to the length of their stay. 

There are in Havana many toad-eaters who abuse this 
hospitality. Officers from the Peninsula who are not 
married, do not generally incur any expense for their 
maintenance. They inquire the whereabouts of several 
epicurean Creoles whose houses they visit in turn pre- 
cisely at the time that dinner is served. > They accept the 
invitation which is always given on these occasions ; and 
endeavor to take at one meal as much as they would at 
three, thus avoiding the expense of breakfast and supper. 
People of these habits are designated here as men who 
never make fire in their houses. 

Particular mention must be made in this place of a cer- 
tain Spaniard named Don Fernando de la Serna, who 
while availing himself of the Creole hospitality, had no 
other end in conversation than that of criticizing the 
Creoles, and finding fault with every thing in the country. 
Whenever the head of the family mentioned any of the 
numberless follies of Spanish customs, he charged him 
with being an insurgent. He hated all the Spanish-Ame- 
ricans, but was always ready to dine at their tables. 
This wretch, in order to conceal his coarseness and rough 
manners, affected the air of a philosopher, professed 
the Pythagorean doctrine of the transmigration of souls x 
and was very proud when any person called him by the 
name of that famous philosopher. The Creole who endur- 
ed this sort of sponging longest, was General Arango, 
into whose house the philosopher at last fairly removed 
— being no longer satisfied with taking dinner only — and 
where he lived, as I have been informed, for many years, 
without incurring any expense whatever. 



238 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

Another famous parasite, Don Mariano Lassaleta, will 
furnish us with some hints on the abuses of the govern- 
ment. Being a married man, he left his wife in Spain, 
where she lived entirely on remittances sent to her from 
Cuba. Through the influence of Intendant^inillos, he 
was appointed to three or four different offices. The 
business of one of them, with a salary of four thousand 
dollars yearly, was to examine the segars exported to 
Spain, though his total want of knowledge in the matter 
made him unable to judge of their quality, besides which 
he did not even smoke. He was also appointed Manager 
of the Hospital of San Juan de Dios, an office requiring 
scarcely any other trouble than that of collecting eight 
per cent, on all the receipts of the Institution, without ex- 
cluding donations, so that all persons making gifts to the 
Hospital were sure to contribute that per centage to the 
benefit of the Manager. 

Not being satisfied, however, with this gain, he also 
forgot to enter in the books many of the payments made 
to the Hospital ; so that when the honest Canon Manuel 
Marafion was appointed to the office, he found that his 
good predecessor was a defaulter to a great amount. As 
Lassaleta had not been required to give any bonds, and 
possessed no property, the Institution suffered the loss. 

Lastly, I know a Spania'rd, over eighty years old, who 
lived at a Creole's, his brother-in-law, with full board for 
-eleven years. He manifested his gratitude to his bene- 
factor by persecuting his sons, who were ruined by costly 
legal prosecutions and reduced to the greatest poverty. 
This, he brought about through his influence with the 
Judges, who being his countrymen readily yielded to his 
requests, without any regard to their propriety or justice. 

Fashionable dinners are generally excellent and sump- 
tuous, as commerce takes care to provide for the tables • 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 239 

every thing which is not the produce of the country. All 
epicurean improvements and discoveries come directly 
from France and are known here sooner than in the mo- 
ther country. Spaniards, therefore, in spite of their earn- 
est desire to prove that every thing in Spain is better 
than here, have to acknowledge their inferiority in these 
matters. It is said that General Enna was once astonish- 
ed on seeing ice at the table of Count Santo Venia, and 
on being informed that it was brought from the United 
States, remarked that since Spain was nearer, they ought 
to import it from that quarter. 

Their utter ignorance of every thing pertaining to our 
country is no less remarkable than that manifested by this 
officer on Geography. _ A second Chief of the Army, nam- 
ed Castro, speaking once to General Roncali, said that 
we were only a few miserable whalers. Roncali, then 
gave him a Spanish book containing a description of the 
United States, and it was only after reading it that he 
became acquainted with the fact that we formed a power- 
ful nation. 

O'DonnelPs wife, who after her return from Havana 
excited the wonder of even the Queen of Spain for her 
high-living, landed in the Island poor and miserable. She 
was greatly surprised, on attending a ball a few days 
after her arrival, to observe the costliness of the ladies' 
dresses, while her own garments looked poor and miser- 
able. After two or three months residence, she ordered 
from France a splendid porcelain dinner set, and endea- 
vored to prove that she had brought it from Spain. 

Dinners are generally served at three o'clock in the 
afternoon ; and from twelve to twenty dishes are placed 
on the table, besides three or four varieties for dessert. 
Breakfasts are plentiful and present as great a variety of 
dishes as dinners. It is the custom of many families not 



240 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

to take any supper ; others take coffee or chocolate only, 
especially if sweet-meats or ice creams have been served 
in the early part of the evening, as is very frequently the 
case. It is generally believed here that suppers are un- 
healthy, and this is I believe, the chief reason why they 
are not in general use. 



LETTER XLI. 

Weddings — Dispensations — Prohibited marriages — Necessary 
licences — Curious Spanish laws on marriages — Recent device 
to abolish slavery and increase the white population of the 
Island — Rights of Parents — Two barbarous laws — Spanish 
anthropophagi. 

It is rather singular that one of the rules respecting 
marriages observed in New- York is also followed in 
Cuba. The bridegroom and bride start from the church 
where the ceremony is performed, on a trip into the coun- 
try, where they stay for eight or nine days. At the end 
of this time they return again to the city and give notice 
of the marriage to their friends, who immediately go to 
greet them. The greatest possible secrecy is, however, 
observed in the performance of the ceremony, which takes 
place at the time that churches are empty, or leave is ob- 
tained from the Bishop to be married at the lady's 
residence. 

The laws of the church forbid marriages with persons 
of different religious belief, or among near relations. The 
latter prohibition is, nevertheless, easily surmounted by 
paying the Bishop, in order to obtain a dispensation, a sum 
the amount of which increases in proportion to the inti- 
macy of the kindred. These dispensations are not grant- 
ed, of course, when the persons are great-grandfathers, 
grandfathers, fathers, sons, great grandsons, &c, of each 
11 



242 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

other; nor when their kindred is nearer than that of uncle 
and niece, or vice versa, which is called of the second ca- 
nonical degree. The prohibition extended formerly to 
relations of the seventh degree, and though it has been 
now curtailed to those of the fourth, that is, to those 
cousins who have the same great-great grandfather, the 
necessity of obtaining the dispensation very frequently oc- 
curs, and a handsome income thereby accrues to the 
Bishop. 

For legitimate marriages the consent of the fathers is 
required ; if these be dead, that of the mothers must be 
secured. Lastly, that of the paternal or maternal grand- 
father, of the tutor, and in default of those persons, of the 
Judge, provided the age of the individuals to be married 
be under a certain mark, will be sufficient. If they pos- 
sess any title or belong to the Army or Navy, a royal 
licence is required. As you are aware, Clergymen and 
Nuns are not allowed to marry ; but widowers, even 
with children, are permitted to become clergymen. 

Among Catholics, the marriage is at the same time a 
contract and a sacrament ; it does not end, therefore, un- 
til the death of one of the parties. Complete divorce 
never takes place, but a temporary separation is some- 
times granted, that is so long as the causes which occasion- 
ed it are not removed. Whether this system encourages 
or diminishes morality, 1 am unable to say. I know of 
several instances at home, where imaginary and entirely 
false charges have been brought against a husband or a 
wife in order to obtain a divorce, and no institution which 
promotes such frauds, is worthy of imitation. On the 
other hand, the institution of marriage, when a total di- 
vorce is allowed, acquires a temporary character, and I 
fear that the following words of Gibbon might be applied 
in that case. 



LETTERS PROM CUBA. 243 

"Passion, interest, or caprice, suggested daily motives 
for the dissolution of marriage; a word, a sign, a message, 
a letter, the mandate of a freed man, declared the separa- 
tion ; the most tender of human connexions was degrad- 
ed to a transient society of profit or pleasure." 

The Bishop or his Vicar are the only Judges in matri- 
monial matters, as far as they are considered as sacra- 
mental ; but in all questions about the legitimacy of chil- 
dren, and those relating to the civil law in general, they 
have no jurisdiction. Hence disputes arise between com- 
mon and ecclesiastical Judges, who sometimes consider 
themselves entitled to decide certain suits. This evil is 
very general also in all the other Courts on occount of the 
innumerable privileges (fueros). 

Besides the fees collected by the Bishop for granting 
the aforesaid dispensations, and the share they have in the 
amount given to the priest who performs the ceremony, 
he has other perquisites for the dispensation of what are 
termed proclamas or amonestaciones (publications of the 
bans of marriage). Before a marriage can take place, this 
publication is required to be made in the Parish during 
three holidays, so that notice may be given when there is 
any circumstance which should legally prevent the mar- 
riage. On the payment, however, of a certain sum, one, 
two, and even all three of the bans are dispensed with. 
This is the course pursued in all marriages of fashionable 
persons. 

I consider these dispensations as injurious as those tole- 
rating marriages between near relations. An evil ten- 
dency is the remarkable consequence of these latter alli- 
ances, and places beyond question their prejudicial effects, 
as we most frequently find the issue of such marriages 
either idiotic, imbecile, or of imperfect formation. The 
secrecy produced by not publishing the bans, has equally 



244 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

mischievous effects in causing many sad disappointments, 
and various applications for prohibition have been made 
too late, when no remedy could be applied, thus facilitat- 
ing incest or bigamy. 

Matrimonial contracts are very seldom made, as the 
laws have provided beforehand for all the cases that usu- 
ally occur. As to the property possessed by the married 
couple, it belongs equally to the husband and the wife, 
unless one of them brings proof of possessing it when the 
marriage took place. If the capital of both persons in- 
creases, the gain is equally divided between them ; but if 
any losses are experienced, the wife has a right to draw 
the whole amount of her property, and the residue be- 
longs to the husband or his heirs. 

The concurrence of the wife is not requisite for the 
validity of any agreements which the husband may make, 
unless they affect her particular property ; and he can, 
therefore, sell a house, for instance, without her consent 
or even knowledge, provided he acquired it after the 
marriage. 

Though the marriage is considered as a sacrament, it 
may, nevertheless, be celebrated by proxy, even when the 
authorization is based on a simple letter. Another pecu- 
liarity of the institution is, that it can be accomplished 
without nuptial benedictions (velaciones), that is, without 
attending at the mass, or any other ceremony except ex- 
pressing before the Curate and the witnesses their com- 
mon agreement to become husband and wife, and receiv- 
ing the benediction of the priest. 

Having been told by Don Placido, in one of his speeches 
after dinner, that he was not aware of the existence of 
any law conclusively forbidding marriage between white 
and black people, and several of the company having 
affirmed that there were really on the Island mmy Spa- 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 245 

niards married to negresses, the Filibuster suddenly rose 
and said in a warm manner, that lie had just devised a 
brilliant system to increase with wonderful rapidity the 
white population of Cuba, and at the same time to abo- 
lish slavery. He developed his plan, which afforded much 
amusement to all present. Being desirous of gratifying 
you also, I will here transmit it in a literal translation of 
his own words : — 

" I only want," said Joseito, "one million dollars year- 
ly to carry my plan into execution, and to accomplish 
this highly important end. This amount may be pronounc- 
ed a trifle, if the wealth of the Island be taken into consi- 
deration. One quarter of this money should be invested 
in freeing ten thousand newly born negresses, at twenty- 
five dollars a piece, which number can hardly be produc- 
ed in the whole country during that lapse of time. Half 
a million should be devoted to endow one thousand young 
and healthy negresses, to enable them to marry white 
men. It is beyond question, that there would always be 
a large number of Peninsulars anxious to do it, as their 
attachment to the blacks is so strong, that almost all the 
mulattoes are their children ; besides which, it would not 
be easy for them to overlook the inducements of a dowry, 
which is almighty with them. We would have two hun- 
dred and fifty thousand dollars still left, which I would 
devote to bring out Gallician or Catalonian women. We 
are well acquainted with their manner of living in their 
own country subjected to starvation, and not unfrequent- 
ly having to contend with the pigs for rotten Cabbage and 
other repugnant food, which they ravenously devour to 
sustain existence, while they work harder than Cuban 
oxen, and groan under the onerous yoke of privation, mi- 
sery and misrule. Fifty dollars would enable each of 
them to buy a suit of clothing, clean themselves, get rid 



246 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

of the obnoxious animals, and pay their passage to this 
Island. Giving them two hundred dollars on their arri- 
val, many free negroes may be induced to marry them, if 
proper attention had been only paid to their bathing and 
the cleansing of their heads while aboard the vessel. 
They, on the other hand, have no aversion to such hus- 
bands as the blacks, and will therefore be welcomed as 
their benefactors. If besides all this, the slave trade is 
entirely suppressed, which cannot happen while Cuba is 
in the possession of Spain, its whole population, will, in a 
few years, be entirely composed of white and free 
people." 

Whether this system of Joseito could, or could not be 
realized, the Cubans are perhaps best able to judge, and 
to them I leave the question. Meanwhile, I will proceed 
with my letter, and accomplish my task in accordance 
with my programme. 

Fathers possess almost the same rights which were pre- 
scribed by the ancient Roman laws over their legitimate 
children. The patria fotestas is not withdrawn from a 
father on account of his son's having reached the age of 
twenty-five years ; but, on the other hand, he is bound to 
bequeath to them at least four-fifths of his whole proper- 
ty, unless they have given just cause to be disinherited. 
All the causes which authorize fathers to adopt this latter 
course, are very grave, and are minutely designated by 
the law. A father may, however, bequeath to any parti- 
cular son or daughter, the third and fifth parts of his whole 
property, without being obliged to state his reasons for 
so doing. Parents are thus enabled to reward good de- 
portment, and punish misconduct. 

The law does not recognize any other source of pater- 
nal authority than marriage. This is the reason why such 
authority is denied to fathers in relation to their illegiti- 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 247 

mate children, though they are compelled to furnish them 
with the necessaries of Jife, and also to bequeath to them 
a certain amount of property. 

In accordance with the legal principle before mention- 
ed, " the father of a child is the husband of his mother," 
(Pater est q%em nuptice demonstrant). The law considers 
as legitimate sons all those who are born during the mar- 
riage, and even after the husband's death, though ten 
?nonths had elapsed since that event. As the law makes 
no disrinction, I believe, that even if the husband has been 
in a dying state for a long time prior to death, the afore- 
said term will not begin to be computed till the very mo- 
ment of the death. 

Don Placido has requested me to take a copy of that 
law, and to send it to you, translated into English, in or- 
der to give you a specimen of Spanish legislation. After 
perusing it, please tell me what you think of the philoso- 
phical reasoning adduced by the lawgiver :— " Because 
Hippocrates said it." 

(Literal Translation of the Ley 4, tit. 23, partida 4J 

" Hippocrates was a philosopher in the art of physic, 
and said that the longest term a pregnant woman can be 
with child is ten months. Then, if ten months have 
elapsed since the husband's death, the child which shall 
come into the world shall be legitimate, and shall be con- 
sidered as having been begotten by the husband, notwith- 
standing this circumstance, provided both consorts lived 
in the same house when the husband died. This philoso- 
pher said also, that children born during the seventh 
month, even on the first day of said month, are perfect, 
and may live ; and such children shall be considered as 
lawfully begotten by the married parents, provided they 
were both living under the same roof on the day of con- 



248 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

ception. The same must be said in regard to those chil- 
dren born in the ninth month, which is the most common 
term. In case, however, of the event taking place on the 
first day of the eleventh month after the father's death, 
the child shall not be considered as his. We have already 
seated, in the laws of the Sixth Partida of the present 
book, the manner of watching those women who after 
their husband's death, state that they are advanced in 
pregnancy, in order to avoid errors as to the paternity of 
their children." 

My wonder was great on reading this nonsensical law, 
but Don Placido told me that there were many others 
still more barbarous. In order to prove it, he turned a 
few leaves of the same volume, and requested me to take 
a memorandum of the eighth law, seventeenth titulo,. 
fourth Partida, which substantially says: — 

"Whenever a father finds himself reduced to the utmost 
extremity of hunger, he may sell his own son in order to 
buy provisions." — But this is not all : the worst part is as 
follows : — "But if this father, when suffering from hun- 
ger, be defending a fortress, he may devour his son be- 
fore surrendering the castle." — Spaniards say, that their 
laws are wise ; but Don Placido, on hearing the asser- 
tion is in the habit of exclaiming, "What are they not 
capable of saying 1 ?" 

He affirms that Spaniards are naturally anthropophagi, 
and he becomes almost mad whenever any body contra- 
dicts him. He quotes in favor of his opinion the above 
laws, and many others; he adduces the whole history of 
Spain, principally the siege of Zaragoza, and the fact that 
certain Spaniards in Florida, devoured their own coun- 
trymen. The fact itself is horrid, and there cannot be 
any doubt that it actually took place. Don Placido put 
under my eyes and almost compelled me to read these 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 249 

atrocious deeds in the works of Torquemada, Cabeza de 
Vaca and Bernal Diaz del Castillo. 

I could not refrain from remarking to my friend that 
it was unfair to impute to a whole Nation the vices of 
some of its individuals. But he became exceedingly ex- 
cited and did not seem disposed to acknowledge any ex- 
ception to the general rule. He strongly opposes every- 
thing which may mitigate the charge ; and I am inclined 
to excuse him, because, in fact, all resentment from the 
Creoles against the Spaniards must be considered just. 
It is necessary to live here in order to perceive all the 
hatred of the Peninsulars against the Cubans, and also to 
become acquainted with all the wrongs committed on them 
by the government. What may be considered the most 
wonderful thing in this Island is that such a general quiet 
should prevail throughout the people, and that murders 
of Catalonians and others, should not be heard of every 
day, or a bloody slaughter of them made by a few dozen 
of resolute Creoles. 



LETTER X L 1 1 . 

Funerals — Detailed account of the ceremonies — Singulaiity of 
several customs — The velorio and feast — Brilliant funeral of 
the Countess of La Reunion — Abuses and flatteries of obitua 
ry notices — A new Society having in view the publication of 
true and impartial biographies — Funerals of Marin, Bermudex 
and Enna. 

The governors of Cuba being particularly inclined to 
intrude themselves in all matters, an attempt has recent- 
ly been made to prevent the exposure of corpses, and 
the sumptuousness displayed in funerals. Some years 
ago, a sumptuary law was also published to this effect, 
but in spite of this, no burial could be effected for an 
amount less than three hundred dollars, and this sum in- 
creased enormously when the least desire of extra dis- 
play was entertained. It was not a very uncommon occur- 
rence for an undertaker to receive in payment the great- 
er part of a deceased person's property, and so large 
were their profits, that in many instances they were quite 
satisfied with receiving only half the amount of their 
bills. The following was the course pursued : — 

As soon as a person dies, an abstract of his will (clau- 
sula) is drawn from the archives of the Notary who 
wrote it. This document states the manner in which the 
deceased commands his burial to be performed, the 
amount of several legacies which every testator is com- 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 251 

pelled by royal orders to bequeath, and the number of 
masses he requires to be celebrated in favor of his soul. 
Another indispensable requisite is to buy the hula de di- 
funtos, bull of the departed, which costs three dollars. 
The object is, I believe, to prevent any person from going 
out of this world without paying taxes. It is also neces- 
sary to obtain a leave from the Curate in order that the 
corpse may be admitted into the cemetery. This licence 
is also requisite for the guards stationed at the city gates, 
who will not permit the hearse to pass without it. 

While these preliminary steps are taken, the printing 
of invitation cards is ordered, and two or three friends 
are busily engaged in writing the addresses of all those 
acquaintances who possess carriages, because the most 
important feature of the funeral is to have a large num- 
ber of vehicles to form a long row. 

V/ealthy families generally keep for these occasions 
four or more sets of liveries to dress as many slaves ; and 
if they do not possess so many servants, the undertaker 
will furnish them. As a great number of liveries are re- 
quired for ostentation sake, the friends of the deceased 
are wont to send all they have, and even their own ne- 
groes in livery, who are called zacatccas. They use a 
particular garb consisting of breeches tied with small 
buckles under the knees ; a very long cloth coat hang- 
ing down to the ankles, trimmed up with an ornamental 
border, made of a woollen yarn fringe on which heraldic 
scutcheons are woven ; a waistcoat of the same color with 
the coat, and a three cornered hat with black cockade and 
tassel. These negroes are expected to carry the coffin 
on their shoulders to church before it is placed in the 
hearse, and while the corpse remains at home, they form 
a kind of guard of honor. 

The walls of the parlor or saloon of the house were 



252 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

formerly covered with black cloth ; but this has been re- 
cently forbidden. A high frame made for the purpose, is 
placed in the parlor and covered with black cloth nicely 
trimmed and ornamented with four tassels hanging from 
the corners, and on the top of it the corpse is deposited in 
the coffin upon three large cushions. Around this mo- 
nument, twelve candlesticks from six to seven feet high 
are arranged, holding large wax tapers of about the same 
height, and between them are disposed smaller ones with 
proportionate wax candles. All these lights are kept 
burning day and night until the corpse is taken out. As 
all the doors and windows are kept open, many are put 
out by the wind, and the utmost vigilance is required 
from the undertaker's assistants to keep them lighted, and 
to prevent a fire» 

The female relations of the deceased sit down together 
in a room whose walls, doors and windows are covered 
by black curtains. There they receive their friends' 
compliments, or condolances (pesame) during the nove- 
nary. Visitors remain about one hour in a profound si- 
lence, or speaking in a very low tone of voice with per- 
sons sitting near by. 

On the night that the corpse lies exposed in the saloon, 
as it is supposed that the relations do not sleep, many 
male and female friends remain in the house to accom- 
pany them, and form what is named velorio. At midnight 
a supper is served, and were music called in, this would 
constitute a pleasure party. More than one match has 
been made upon such occasions. On the following day, 
before the burial takes place, a good dinner is prepared 
for almost every person who wishes to attend, no matter 
whether he be a friend or not, because little ceremony is 
observed in such cases, and as many individuals, who are 
not relations of the deceased meet together, a merriment 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 253 

unbecoming under the circumstances is sometimes per- 
ceived. 

About twenty-four hours after death, the corpse is 
taken out of the house. The Curate, accompanied by 
the priests who have been previously invited and three 
acolytes, holding in their hands long silver rods surmount- 
ed by a cross and wax candles, begin to recite some 
prayers, after which the procession proceeds to the ceme- 
tery. Sometimes they stop at the church to perform the 
service for the dead. Every priest is allowed a certain 
fee for his trouble. 

Before arriving at the Campo Santo (Holy field, or 
burial ground), the coffin is generally taken out of the 
hearse at the door of the Asylum called the Beneficencia, 
and carried to the Chapel, where the mendicant girls 
sing a responsary which costs seventeen dollars, and af- 
fords a pretty income to the Institution. Another res- 
ponsary is sung at the cemetery, where a small chapel 
is always open for this purpose. During the recital of 
prayers, the coffin is lowered to the grave, or put into a 
niche. No monuments are seen on the sepulchres more 
ornamental than a marble stone lying horizontally on 
the grave. 

Immediately after the burial, the suite returns to the 
house of the deceased. The saloon has meanwhile been 
transformed by the removal of all the funeral apparatus 
which are then replaced by chairs. The nearest relations 
of the dead do not join the procession, because they be- 
lieve it is inconsistent with the grief that they must feel. 
They remain at home to receive the compliments of those 
of the suite who return. These come in, take their seats, 
and after remaining some time in silence, they rise and 
pass before the relations successively with whom they 
shake hands on taking their leave. 



254 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

Some months ago the sumptuous burial of the Countess 
of La Reunion took place here, when for the first time, I 
believe, women were seen attending the procession. It 
was said that those women represented as many poor 
families who had been supported by the alms of the 

Countess. The statement is true Peace be with the 

dead ! 

An almost indispensable appendix on the death of any 
person of distinction, is a long obituary notice published 
in the newspapers. In these articles, not only are the 
vices of the deceased passed by without notice, and his 
good actions highly exaggerated ; but generally some vir- 
tues which he never possessed are ascribed to him. Such 
a course, must, and really does promote criticism and pri- 
vate gossippings, in which the true history of the deceas- 
ed is related, and every bad action is made public and 
fully commented upon. Indeed, though christian charity 
directs us to speak well of the dead, it is nevertheless 
very difficult sometimes to restrain ourselves from exhibit- 
ing indignation at the adulations bestowed on worthless 
characters, such as swindlers exalted to the pinnacle of 
honesty, and courtesans to all the admirable qualities of 
virtue. 

In my opinion, charity in such cases, must be fully sa- 
tisfied with silence. Encomiums on vice are the effects 
of flattery, and are, moreover, both immoral and unjust, as 
we must censure it in its various garbs, in order to display 
the attractive beauties attached to virtue ; for never should 
the honest be put on a level with the wicked, by uniting 
them in a common eulogy. I think, on the contrary, that 
if it were possible to publish on the death of every distin- 
guished personage, a true and impartial account of his 
good or bad actions, a barrier would be raised to intimi- 
date future wrong-doers, and inspire the virtuous in their 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 255 

laudatory pursuits ; and this powerful inducement would 
influence the behavior of many. You will perhaps re- 
mark, that such impartiality and truthfulness is not possi- 
ble; but I do not consider it so. It is not, indeed, an easy 
undertaking; but I think that the immense advantage 
which might be derived from it, would warrant the labor 
bestowed on the necessary researches. 

In speaking thus, I do not refer to Havana alone. How 
many men and women have I known in the States, whose 
invaluable virtues have not been perceived by their 
contemporaries ! These excellent characters easily hide 
themselves from view, because modesty is inseparable 
from true merit. Those who endeavor to show them- 
selves, and assume an exterior of honesty, are generally 
found trying to conceal some evil design contemplated. 

There is a custom in several scientific bodies of Europe, 
of pronouncing an eulogy on the death of a fellow-mem- 
ber, but I do not know of any in which an impartial bio- 
graphy is required. Would it not be possible to establish 
an association for the purpose of publishing an impartial 
history of the life of all persons of rank in society 1 Would 
not such an institution exert a powerful influence on both 
customs and morals ? I think it would ; and though 
abuses are apt to be committed, and the natural reluctance 
to condemn the memory of the dead would be an obstacle 
in the way of finding impartial judges, the usefulness of 
the association would still be considerable, if it only pub- 
lished those praise- worthy acts which otherwise would 
have passed unnoticed. Besides this advantage, which 
may well be considered a great one, we would then, and 
only then, be able to fulfil those duties which justice re- 
quires us to perform. 

Several funerals at which the attendance was uncom- 
monly large, have taken place in this city, according to 



256 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

the statement of my informants; among them, two deserve 
particular mention, as they were not attended from a de- 
sire of gratifying- those who issued the invitations, as is 
frequently the case, but from an attachment and sympa- 
thy to the person of the deceased. 

One of them was that of the Physician Don Pablo 
Marin, a man so naturally disinterested and liberal, that 
he experienced a lively pleasure in attending the poor, 
from whom he had nothing to expect ; and he not only 
tendered his services gratis, but was also in the habit of 
giving them money to pay for the medicines he prescrib- 
ed, and even to procure comfortable sustenance. This will 
be considered more extraordinary yet, when we reflect that 
he was far from being rich. Being a person of great abi- 
lity in his profession, he enjoyed a widely extended repu- 
tation, and possessed numerous influential patrons, but 
nearly the whole of his considerable earnings were devot- 
ed to the support of his mother and sisters. He never 
neglected, however, to afford relief to the poor, and he 
was delighted whenever he was able to satisfy the wants 
of the needy. As he was, besides, a very honest man, 
and a sincere friend, nobody was surprised to see that 
over five hundred carriages of persons who were under 
obligations to him, accompanied his body to its resting 
place. 

The other burial alluded to, was that of the distinguish- 
ed lawyer Don Anacleto Bermudez. He also enjoyed a 
numerous clientage, which he acquired by means of his 
talent and learning. The sympathy arising from this cir- 
cumstance, was greatly increased on account of his noto- 
rious republican sentiments. He was, it is said, an ardent 
patriot, and was even suspected by the government of 
having taken a very active part in the last revolutionary 
movement. The Captain General became exceedingly 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 257 

alarmed on learning that the first carriage had almost 
reached the cemetery, and the last of the row were still 
inside the city walls ; that over three thousand young 
gentlemen, elegantly dressed in black, walked uncovered 
around the coffin; that four of them carried it on their 
shoulders, contending with each other for the honor of 
bearing the corpse, not allowing, of course, the negro 
servants to do it, according to custom. 

The Peninsulars were astonished on seeing this sponta- 
neous manifestation of the general feeling. On the death 
of Enna, their utmost exertions were directed to make, if 
possible, the most sumptuous funeral that had ever been 
heard of in Havana. They called at every house inviting 
persons to attend; they almost compelled all the shop- 
keepers to close their establishments and dress themselves 
in a proper manner to form a numerous retinue ; but des- 
pite of all their efforts, they were forced to acknowledge 
that Enna's funeral was far from being as brilliant as that 
of Bermudez, even though the latter was unaccompanied 
by any display of soldiery. 

There was, besides, in the burial of that Spanish Gene- 
ral a circumstance not generally known, which formed a 
striking contrast with the spontaneous zeal which was 
observed in that of the lawyer. The Arragonese, Enna's 
countrymen, had agreed to carry the coffin on their shoul- 
ders ; but as the streets were muddy, they refused to do 
it when called upon to* fulfil their promise, alleging that 
their clothes would be soiled and become useless. 



11* 



LETTER XLIII. 

Bull-fights — The Alcalde — The despejo — How they welcome 
policemen — Yankee bull — Horrid scene — The death of the 
bull — Christina's humanity — The famous Pepeillo and the 
treacherous bull 

We were once on the point of seating ourselves at the 
dinner table, when a noise of bells in the street was heard. 
On going to the window we saw three horses caparison- 
ed with flags, large and small bells, tassels and ribbons. 
"There is a bullfight at Regla," said Don Placido to me. 
"Have you ever seen that barbarity ?" "Let us go and 
see it," answered J'oseito. I quickly accepted the invita- 
tion, but the old lawyer refused to share with us the plea- 
sures of the sport. Our requests, however, were so press- 
ing, that at last we forced him to go with us. We took 
our dinner hastily, went out, and arrived in season to get 
good seats. 

A few minutes after our arrival, almost every seat was 
filled, and, of course, at short distances, a sentinel with 
musket and bayonet was stationed. One of them was 
afterwards placed near us; Don Placido, on seing him, rose 
from his seat and walked away inviting us to follow him. 
"Let us go and sit as far as possible from that beast," 
said he, and seeing an empty place on the side where the 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 259 

sun was shining, he took possession of it ; I did the same, 
and suffered with pleasure the inconvenience of a warmer 
temperature in order to avoid the proximity of the repre- 
sentative of despotism. 

The circus in which the bullfight was going to take 
place, was also crowded with people who were walking 
about, strongly excited. Their excitement was a kind of 
"rabid joy " — these -being the best words I can employ 
to give you an idea of it — because something like mad- 
ness might be perceived in every face, especially in those 
of the Spaniards. The Creoles hardly formed one-tenth 
of the whole attendance. Very few women were seen, 
and none of them were natives. 

The time appointed to begin the sport had already pass- 
ed ; the people began to show some impatience; but the 
Alcalde Mayor, who was to preside over the amusement, 
had not yet arrived. It is usual for the public officer to 
come late, in order, I think, to make the people acknow- 
ledge that they are worth nothing, or at least that the 
officer is superior to them. At last, the wished for Al- 
calde arrived. On going into his box, he looked con- 
temptuously all around, evincing a ridiculously majestic 
gravity. Of course he did not even touch his hat, nor 
was the slightest indication of courtesy to the people ob- 
served. He then spoke to the military officer, who was 
in command of the troops, and who had approached him 
to take his orders. 

Three or four minutes "afterwards, the soldiers made 
their appearance in the circus to effect the despejo, that is, 
to drive off all the people who filled the arena. They slow- 
ly retired to their seats, and the troops, after making the 
tour of the area to the sound of music, went out through 
the same gate by which they entered. 

Then, a policeman on horseback, all dressed in black* 



260 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

with a three cornered hat, a small cloak and a staff in his 
left hand, as an emblem of his authority, made his appear- 
ance at a door opposite to the Alcalde's box. Not be- 
ing a first-rate horseman, he could hardly keep on his 
saddle and made several laughable contortions to avoid a 
fall. He went trotting directly through the circus and 
placed himself under the functionary's box. The recep- 
tion which that wretch met with is beyond description. 
From all sides a general cry of mockery and contempt 
was first heard ; and then hisses, shouts, and some insult- 
ing words followed in rapid succession. Several stenlo- 
rian voices were sometimes heard, amidst the horrible 
medley, shouting expressions conveying the most profound 
scorn : — Alguacil ! Esbirro ! Ladron ! ( Policeman ! 
Thief !) 

But the brave officer seemed to acknowledge that he 
deserved still greater contempt than that manifested to- 
wards him, as his face was unalterable, and looked as if 
he was unconscious of what was passing. He must have 
lost forever what modesty he might have had when enter- 
ing the circus, after the scene which was there enacted. 

Without showing the least emotion, he went to his post, 
and took off his hat to receive into its crown the key of 
the toril, a place where the bulls are locked up. It is 
customary for the Alcalde to throw the key from his seat, 
but on this occasion, his awkwardness and want of skill 
was such, that it struck one of the ears of the animal, and 
fell to the ground. The horse was frightened and jump- 
ed ; the rider struggled to keep his seat, which he success- 
fully accomplished after a short while, amidst the loud 
laughter and shouts of the populace. One of the specta- 
tors then went into the circus, and picking up the key, 
stretched his arm, and gave it to the policeman; but mean- 
while the people began to cry out, " Do not give it to 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 261 

him !" — " Let him pick it up himself!" — " Alight from 
the horse, rascal !" — (No se la des ! — Que la coja el ! — 
Ajieate, tunante ! ) 

The merriment of my friends on seeing the insults re- 
ceived by the instrument of the Spanish government, 
manifested itself by prolonged laughter. They were not 
the only persons who rejoiced at the scene ; everybody, 
without exception, seemed highly delighted with it, and 
no pity whatever was evinced for the poor fellow by any 
of the crowd. The Spanish authorities cannot fail to per- 
ceive, that it is not to the policeman, but to themselves, 
that the scorn of the public was directed. " I am already 
satisfied," said the Filibuster, " I am glad of having come, 
because I have enjoyed this sweet pleasure." "So it is 
with me," added Don Placido : "I am delighted, and 
consider the entertainment a good one, if there were no- 
thing else to be seen but the ugly grimaces of the Alcalde 
on hearing the shouts and hisses." 

The Alguacil having left the arena, another door was 
opened, and the whole troupe fcuadrillaj, of bull-fight- 
ers entered the circus. Two horsemen, called picadores, 
entered also : their beasts were very lean, and they were 
" locked" in saddles with high pannels. The horses had 
been hoodwinked by means of a handkerchief, in such a 
manner, that the eye on the side opposite to where the 
bull was, might be uncovered at the will of the rider. 
The stirrups were iron boxes larger than the boots, which 
are of an enormous size. They are strengthened by iron 
hoops, to protect the legs whenever the horse falls upon 
the man. 

The picadores wear slouching, and bear a hard wood 
pike (vara)y eleven or twelve feet long, and about two 
inches in diameter. At the end of the pike is an iron 
point three inches long, and a kind of ball two inches in 



262 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

diameter, formed with hempen strings and placed around 
the point, of which, about an inch remains uncovered. 
One of the picadores stationed himself about ten paces 
from the door through which the bull was to enter, and 
very near the barrier ; another placed himself fifteen or 
twenty paces farther, and in close proximity to the bar- 
rier. 

The signal was given with a trumpet : all eyes were 
then directed to the door of the toiil. The picadores pre- 
pared themselves to receive the attack, by lowering the 
ends of their lances. When the animal is in the act of 
leaving the enclosure, a man strikes his haunches with a 
heavy iron bar, which hips the beast, and makes him 
almost useless for the fight. In order to make him still 
less formidable, they give him no food for the twenty-four 
previous hours, so that when walking into the circus, the 
animal is almost exhausted. All this is done secretly, but 
every person is aware of it. In old Spain it would be 
considered as a crime, and were the bull-fighters to do so 
there, the people would perhaps, drag them over the 
ground. As all the bull-fighters in the circus were Spa- 
niards, I am authorized to say, that they are more afraid 
of the Cuban bulls, than of those of their own country, 
because they do not dare to fight them without such bar- 
barous advantages. 

The entrance of the bull upon the arena is imposing 
and solemn. The animal darts headlong with bravery 
and gracefulness. He lowers his head, he lashes his 
ribs with the tail ; he stops for a moment at the outside 
door ; he then raises his arrogant face haughtily and 
seems to be desirous of beholding the immense crowd 
which is waiting for him. But this stoppage is so short 
that it can scarcely be perceived. As soon as he casts a 
glance on the first horseman, he rushes forward and attacks 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 263 

the animal. The pike is then driven between his blade- 
bones, but this rarely checks his impulse ; he applies both 
his horns to the horse's belly, and thrusting them in, rises 
him from the ground, and throws him over upon his 
rider. The picador endeavors to hide himself from the 
view of his enemy behind the body of the horse, and 
sometimes forces him to rise the head by pulling the reins. 
In this emergency other bullfighters, called capeadores 
or chuMllos, who are on foot, dressed with cloaks of seve- 
ral lively colors, but without arms, do all in their power 
to attract the attention of the bull in order to extricate 
the fallen picador from his imminent danger. 

They generally succeed. The animal follows one of 
them ; but in a few moments the chulillo reaches a bar- 
rier, jumps over it, or passes through some of the narrow 
passages which are open at certain distances ajl around 
the circus. These passages are scarcely wide enough to 
allow a person to pass sideways, so that the horns of the 
bull are prevented from going farther. 

Sometimes, however, the animal is so enraged that he 
disregards his provokers, and goes on revenging himself 
on the poor horse. He thus becomes more and more 
furious as if excited by the smell of blood, of which a 
large pool is soon formed. The horses being easily lift- 
ed by the bull, it frequently happens that they are thrown 
upon the rider, and sometimes roll over him. In these 
cases the man remains entirely exposed to the fury of the 
beast, and if the capeadores have not succeeded in the 
meantime in driving off the bull, he becomes an easy 
victim. 

The first bull we saw looked haugty, and stood upright 
and proud, but he gave many evident proofs of having 
been crippled. In order to scoff Americans, the Catalo- 
nians called him the Yankee, and as he was designated to 



264 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

be killed, they were satisfied, I suppose, thinking that 
something Yankee was going to be killed. 

Although the animal had been severely hurt before the 
fight, scarcely two minutes had elapsed after his entrance 
in the arena, when both picadores were under their 
horses, and these were so much wounded that portions 
of their entrails were hanging from their lacerated bodies! 
What a revolting spectacle ! On seeing the fury with 
which the bull attacked the first horse, I involuntarily 
shut my eyes, and when I opened them again, all this 
mischief had been done. The animal, with both horns 
stained in blood, was chasing a chulillo, and a few men 
were trying to lift up the picadores and their horses. 
After accomplishing this, the picadores placed themselves 
in safety outside the barrier, but the poor horses present- 
ed a very sad spectacle. They ran from one side to an- 
other, with their entrails hanging, and as they had their 
eyes covered, they were unable to avoid the bull. One 
of them suffered such an attack, that he fell dead on the 
ground in a large pool of blood. 

During this disgusting scene the other horse was taken 
out of the circus ; but imagine my wonder and indigna- 
tion, on seeing that a few moments afterwards, the pica- 
dor came in again riding on the same animal, whose in- 
testines hung out and almost touched the ground ! The 
second pikeman also came again on a new horse. The 
first was immediately attacked by the bull with undi- 
minished rage, and almost the same scene was witnessed 
as before. No diminution was observed in the spirits of 
the animal, until he assailed the second picador, who was 
then able to stop him with his pike, and even to keep 
him away from the horse. After an unsuccessful effort to 
approach the horse, the bull left him and began to follow 
the chulillos, some of whom were so frightened that they 



LETTERS FROM CUBA 265 

ran and fell flat on the outside of the barrier, receiving" 
very hard blows to the great delight of those present, 
who expressed their joy by piercing cries and loud 
laughter. 

All this happened amidst the most dreadful huzzas. 
The shouts were also horrid : numerous bravos ! were 
addressed to the bull whenever he killed a horse, or threw 
down a horseman, while the bullfighters were gratified 
with many injurious imprecations whenever they succeed- 
ed in deceiving their enemy by a dexterous and skillful 
movement. They were very frequently styled cowards! 
shameless ! by the crowd, and all the sympathies seemed 
to be on the side of the bull. Some cried out greatly 
excited, "Had not the brave little bull been crippled, he 
woul have killed twelve horses !" They were not satis- 
fied with the sacrifice of three horses that had been 
already dispatched 

As soon as the bull showed himself somewhat tired, 
four men without cloaks, and bearing two banderillas 
each, presented themselves in the circus. The banderi- 
11a is a wooden stick about a yard long, ornamented with 
colored paper, and having at one of its ends an iron hook 
provided with percussion caps and fire-crackers which 
become ignited and exploded as soon as the banderilla 
is stuck into the animal's neck. The flesh is thereby 
burnt and torn off, which produces, as you may easily 
imagine, very acute pains. The noise of the crackers, 
the smell and smoke of the powder stunned the bull which 
jumped about and became more furious. There is some- 
times great danger in performing this part of the amuse- 
ment. 

When five or six pair of banderillas had been stuck, a 
trumpet sounded, and the espada (killer), bearing a large 
sword and a red flag, made his appearance. He walked 
12 



266 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

forward and placed himself under the Alcalde's box, took 
off his cloth cap, and after making a general salutation all 
around, threw it on the ground. He then stood behind 
the flag, and as the bull rushed on to make the attack in 
a straight forward direction, he moved to the left, and the 
beast passed under the flag. This was repeated, and on 
the animal making the third onset, he plunged the sword 
up to the hilt between the two blade-bones. The stroke 
was so dexterously given, that before the animal had time 
to proceed farther, he drew out the sword stained with 
blood, and showing it to the people around, bowed and 
departed. 

Boisterous applauses were then heard from all directions, 
the enthusiasm of many was converted into frenzy ; and I 
heard some remark, that they " had never seen a better 
stab." The bull, however, continued running, but in a 
few minutes he bent his fore-legs and fell to the ground, 
bleeding profusely. On seeing that he could not stand 
up, a man armed with a long dirk approached the back 
of the animal with the greatest caution, and stuck the 
knife into the nape so skilfully, that instant death was 
produced. The populace seemed to pity the animal, and 
cried vociferously, — " Traitor ! why don't you go before 
the bull V* The three horses that we had seen in the 
street were then brought in, and they dragged the beast 
out of the circus. The same was done with the dead 
horses. Some sand was thrown on the blood stains of 
the arena to prepare it for a second fight. 

The next bull, as well as four more that fought on that 
afternoon, were not so spirited or violent as the first, on 
account, perhaps, of having been more severely hurt to 
make them less dangerous. I will mention here two 
incidents which occurred, although I have already said 
rather too much on the subject. 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 267 

A chulillo was assailed by the bull, and while in the 
act of jumping over the barrier, was caught by his belt, 
and left hooked to the beast's horns, 1 turned my face 
to avoid the bloody scene before me. A quarter of a 
minute elapsed, and the man was rising from the ground, 
and the animal was pursuing other chulillos. The bull 
by the shaking of his head to get rid of the cumbrous 
weight of his antagonist, broke the belt, and the man be- 
ing precipitated to the ground, his life was saved in con- 
sequence. 

Another bull, whose horns were widely separated, at- 
tacked one of the fighters, who having no time to escape 
through the narrow openings of the barrier, was caught 
between the enclosure and the horns of the animal. When 
the latter drew back for a second onset, the skilful chu- 
lillo did not lose his presence of mind, though his face 
looked very pale, and rushing to the nearest opening, 
made a wonderful escape. 

During the recesses, the different feats of the perform- 
ance were criticised, large quantities of fruit were con- 
sumed, and smoking continued all the time. Incidents 
and narrow escapes in former fights were related ; and 
great regret was manifested for the death of Montes, who 
it is said, was the best bull-fighter Spam ever possessed. 
He once performed an exceedingly dangerous feat, but 
the attention of the Queen Mother had been directed to 
some other object, and she did not see it. She wanted 
him to perform again this difficult feat, but he refused, 
saying, that it could not be done a second time without 
the greatest risk of his life ; but the lady insisted, and 
Montes thought that it was necessary to please her; he 
considered that his life ought to be sacrificed to his 
Queen's wishes, without regard to the cruelty and im- 
propriety of her desires. His body was pierced through 



268 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

by one of the horns of the bull ! Had the people thrown 
the good lady into the circus, they would only have done 
what was right. 

An Andalusian, of very dark complexion, who was 
near us, said, that he had witnessed the death of the 
" greatest man in the world." He thus called a matador 
(killer), named Pepeillo, of whom he related the follow- 
ing story. At a bull-fight at Seville, he appeared pale and 
quivering, and requested the corrcjidor (Mayor or Presi- 
dent), to excuse him for not killing the animal. He said, that 
the beast when attacking, was wont to suddenly change his 
direction, so that he was afraid to assail him, and that he 
would certainly be killed if obliged to enter the arena. 
The Mayor perceiving the man's terror, and believing 
that he would fall an easy victim, was prompted to grant 
his request. The crowd, however, in a state of excite- 
ment, shouted, "make him kill the bull!" This, with 
other peremptory expressions and gesticulations obliged 
Pepeillo to undertake the feat. The bull on making the 
attack, suddenly turned his head to the right, and the 
matador fell a corpse. How severe a punishment that 
crowd of wretches deserved ! 



LETTER XLIY. 

Deportment of the Catholic Clergy — Consequences of the vow of 
Chastity — Capellanias — Anecdotes — Bad Clergymen — 
Perjury — Philological disquisition — Honorable Priests — 
Religious advice — A rectification. 

Notwithstanding all that I had read and heard about 
the moral character of the Cuban Clergy, a conversation 
which sprung up between Don Antonio and Don Placido 
on this matter afforded me much information. After an 
hour's discussion, their respective opinions, as is usually 
the case, did not change in the least ; but as they possess- 
ed a long experience, a great number of facts and interest- 
ing anecdotes were developed in the course of the con- 
versation, and I was furnished with the means of gather- 
ing very useful data and accurate information to commu- 
nicate to you. 

They did not endeavor to discover the origin of the 
prohibition of marriage among Catholic clergymen ; but 
seemed to take for granted that they were prevented 
from marrying because the Church had forbidden it. The 
controversy was on the expediency of the prohibition. 
Don Antonio considered it expedient and Don Placido 
thought that it was a source of immorality. The former 
brought several facts to support his opinion ; but the lat- 
ter adduced an immense number of instances in favor 



270 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

of his ideas which were admitted by Don Antonio, and 
denied also several of his oponent's statements. I con- 
cluded, therefore, that the profligacy of the Cuban clergy 
was a fact beyond question, and that there were very few 
who could be considered as exceptions. 

Don Placido, however, was not satisfied with saying 
that the evil existed, but affirmed that it necessarily ought 
to exist, and alleged several reasons to prove his asser- 
tion. He said that the vow of chastity, being in contra- 
diction with the laws of nature, it was necessary to break 
it, as it was not possible for all men to resist those laws, 
and added "molestissima omnioum affectionum concupis- 
centia est." Don Antonio replied, that such inclinations 
could be overpowered, and adduced as a proof the fact 
that many men had done it. His opponent replied by 
affirming that all the instances quoted were not true, and 
that those which were, only proved that the persons were, 
"a naturd frigidi" 

He thought that if the vows were wholly spontaneous 
and made at the age of fervent passions, there would be 
more probability of their being fully complied with ; but 
the true motives in most cases for making such vows are 
to take possession of the capellanias. This institution 
being not known in our country, I will here offer a brief 
explanation of it. 

Many persons establish a mortgage on a piece of their 
property, and the interest at the rate of five per cent per 
annum is paid to a clergyman styled capellan (chaplain), 
who must be a descendant of his, and who must celebrate 
a certain number of masses every year in favor of his 
soul. It frequently happens that a person has among his 
forefathers many founders of capellanias, so that a large 
income is thus formed, and in order to enjoy it, he is 
obliged to remain a bachelur, to signify his desire of be- 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 271 

For the purpose of obtaining this reve- 
nue, the vows of chastity are pronounced and therefore, 
these are no longer spontaneous. The effect of this is, 
that men who have not the least inclination to celibacy 
swear to observe it, though quite aware that they shall 
break their oath and become perjurers. 

But it is not only the immorality of the unpunished per- 
jury, and the profligate living of those persons whose 
conduct should be most shining and pure, that are the 
effects of this institution ; many other abuses are derived 
from it, which are its unavoidable consequences, as I will 
demonstrate in the sequel. 

I know a clergyman who possesses a capellania with a 
capital of twenty thousand dollars, yielding him one 
thousand dollars yearly, for which ho is obliged to cele- 
brate one mass daily. The possessor of this capellania 
evidently cannot serve another, because clergymen are 
forbidden to perform that service oftener than once in a 
day. He, however, enjoys the interests of several others, 
which also require masses to be celebrated. How can 
he manage to serve them all ? His friend Don Placido 
once put this inquiry to him, and he replied that he 
paid another priest for the masses which he could not 
celebrate himself. "Creclat Judceus Apella,'"' answered 
Don Placido. As nobody takes the trouble to ascertain 
whether this is done or not, it can very easily be avoided: 
and the inducements to do so are very powerful. 

A gentleman has also been pointed out to me who pos- 
sesses several capellanias without being a clergyman. He 
cannot be deprived of them unless he marries, for though 
at a certain age they are bound to enter the profession or 
to lose the capellanias, this rule is not observed ; for he is 
about thirty years old and has never been required to 
comply with such a law. 



272 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

Besides, this man has been courting a lady for many 
years, but fearing to lose his income, declines to marry 
her. The result may be readily conceived : an immoral 
alliance. The fact is notorious, but no person cares for 
it. In order to put a stop to the evil in this case, it would 
be necessary that some individual having a claim to the 
capellania, should sue him, and run the risks of the deci- 
sion. This gentleman relying on so considerable an in- 
come, has never thought of seeking other resources of re- 
venue, and would become pennyless, were he deprived 
of his capellania. 

Don Placido was anxious to give me a practical proof 
of his assertions on this subject, and took me to a clergy- 
man, who enjoyed an undeserved good repute. He 
was seated very comfortably in a chair (butaca or buta- 
quej, smoking a segar, and wore a gown of the finest 
cambric, and a pair of slippers. His age was about fifty, 
and the only distinguishable marks of priesthood were the 
calotte which covered his head, and a breviary which was 
lying closed on a chair, and within its leaves his spec- 
tacles. 

My friend introduced me to him by saying, that I was 
an heretical Yankee, who wanted to see a Catholic cler- 
gyman. The Father looked sharply at me, but quickly 
turned his face away, as if afraid that I should discover 
something in his looks. After the mutual interchange of 
the usual civilities, he made several inquiries as to my 
creed, and especially on the means we employed to pro- 
vide for the maintenance of the clergy. He listened at- 
tentively to my remarks, and still more so, when I dwelt 
upon the purity of our ministers and their consistent 
lives. He then said, without looking at me, that a bad 
example, was indeed a great evil, and added in Latin : 
11 Debet Clericus non solum vitare peccatum, sed etiam il- 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 273 

Uus suspicionem" I did not understand this text on ac- 
count of his mode of pronunciation, until he repeated it 
very slowly. This incident brought forth an interesting 
remark from Don Placido. 

In his opinion, the learned men of civilized nations 
ought to agree on the manner of pronouncing the ancient 
tongues, so that having adopted a uniform pronunciation 
for the Latin, for instance, an Englishman and a Spa- 
niard could understand each other, though unable to ex- 
change thoughts in either of their own languages. He 
said, that though the pronunciation of the Latin had been 
lost, there were several data from which another might 
be formed, by coming to an agreement as aforesaid on 
those points which are either unknown or obscure. He 
also manifested great surprise on learning, that in the 
United States the pronunciation of modern Greeks was 
not adopted ; for this language, if not like that of the 
ancient Greeks in all its details, undoubtedly bore a very 
close resemblance to it. He also said, that one great 
advantage of this pronunciation was, that any person 
knowing it could be understood in Greece at the present 
time ; while those who learned at our colleges could not 
enjoy the same benefit. 

I was then told, that in the University of Havana, the 
students are taught the same pronunciation which is now 
used by the Greeks ; and in my opinion, the propriety of 
such a course is evident. I once heard Mr. Anthon, the 
learned Professor of Greek in Columbia College, (N. Y.), 
remark, that the quantity was thus lost; but even if such 
was the case, the objection would be small in comparison 
with the advantages derived from acquiring a living 
tongue; since the ancient Greek maybe considered such, 
by applying to it the modern pronunciation. The pre- 
sent professors undoubtedly would be greatly annoyed in 



274 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

adopting a new system, but the improvement of educa- 
tion deserves such a sacrifice. 

But this disquisition is already too long, and I will 
therefore return to my interview with the priest. The 
Father had scarcely finished his Latin phrase, saying that 
" Clergymen ought to avoid not only the sin, but also its 
appearance," when a boy about five or six years old, 
whose face bore a great resemblance to that of the priest, 
entered the room. He sat on his lap in a familiar man- 
ner, kissed him, and stretching his hand, took the calotte 
from his head, and began to play with the small tassel. 
Don Placido and myself looked at each other and smiled ; 
the Father was rather abashed, and in order to banish all 
suspicions, " ad suspicionem vitandam," he asked the child 
" What is my name V — " Tio Panchito," (Uncle Frank), 
quickly answered the boy. The clergyman then looked at 
us, as if anxious to add, " You see that he is my nephew." 

On going out of Tio Panchito' s house, my friend the 
lawyer remarked, " You have already seen a priest, whom 
Don Antonio considers a saint, and who is really a hypo- 
crite. Let us go and see another who does not conceal 
his faults, and who may be considered a type represent- 
ing a larger class of individuals than the one we have just 
seen : barefacedness is more abundant than hypocracy." 

We went, therefore, to Father Mariano's. His lan- 
guage was truly disgusting; he expressed himself not like 
a licentious young man, but like a Spanish soldier, which 
is all that can be said to give an idea of his profaneness. 
He related to us an incident which had taken place that 
day. He has a son about twenty-five years old, who had 
been a competitor for a professorship in the University : 
some of the Judges, in order to oblige the Father, were 
exerting their influence over the others, to make them 
vote for the priest's nepkew, a name, which decency oblig- 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 275 

ed tliem to give to the competitor, as their mutual kin- 
dred was well known. But the priest thinking that such 
a relationship was not near enough to excite the Judges 
in his favor, rose and said, " Gentlemen, there is nothing 
of 'nephew about him ; he is my beloved son." The Father 
evincing a great satisfaction at having had recourse to 
such a device, said to us: " This truth which I uttered, 
won the victory." 

This clergyman was not so particular as most Catho- 
lics are ; he denied the right of the Popes or Councils to 
require the vow of chastity from the Priests. "The rea- 
son is," said he, "that it is in open contradiction with the 
divine command of 'Grow and multiply yourselves,' and 
such a rule has no other support than the following 
phrases of the New Testament which they do not unders- 
tand — 'And take heed to yourselves lest your hearts 
be overcharged with surfeiting, and drunkness, and the 
cares of this life' (Luke, xxr, 34) — No man being a sol- 
dier to Grod, entanglenth himself with wordly business.'" 
(Paul, 2 Tim. ii, iv). 

The clergyman had scarcely pronounced the last word, 
when the lawyer replied, that it was very strange that 
the Father had forgotten two other texts of St. Paul on 
the subject. A Testament was brought, and Don Pla- 
cido read verses 32 and 33, Chap. VII, of his first epistle 
to the Corinthians : — 

" But I would have you to be without solicitude. He 
that is without a wife is solicitous for the things that 
belong to the Lord, how he may please Grod." 

"But he that is with a wife, is solicitous for the 
things of the world, how he may please his wife : and he 
is divided." 

A warm and long discussion arose between the two 
canonists, in the course of which the priest set forth some 



276 LETTERS FROM CUBA, 

principles which were considered heterodox by Don Pla- 
cido. 

I also was inclined to believe that he was almost a Pro- 
testant; but this opinion was erroneous, as he, on hearing 
this remark, declared himself a strong advocate of Catho- 
licism. He said that no person of common sense who* 
had been once a Catholic, could be a bona fide Protes- 
tant; because many who had professed that religion were 
considered saints by the Lutheran church ; and it being 
granted that Catholics might enter Heaven, it was ha- 
zardous, to say the least, to abandon a well-known course 
and take a doubtful one. As I am very little acquainted 
with theological matters, I will let our Doctors answer 
this argument. On the other hand, the discussion with 
Don Placido had made our visit very long, and I did not 
wish to afford an opportunity of making it still longer. 

On the following day, Don Antonio having learnt that 
I had visited several clergymen with Don Placido, re- 
quested me to go with him and see some others. I 
yielded with pleasure to his desire, but made up my mind 
not to utter a single word on religious matters. We saw, 
indeed, several priests, whose manners, conversation, and 
principles were highly creditable to them. They all 
seemed to be pure and virtuous, and at the same time 
liberal and cheerful. And it was not without surprise, 
that I heard the remarks that one of them made at some 
length, and of which the following is an abstract. 

" I would never endeavor to convert people to my reli- 
gion : I believe that all creeds professed in good faith, 
ought to be respected, as the human intelligence is not 
able to decide by itself, which is the true faith. 1 do not 
like, therefore, to discuss theological points ; and I won- 
der at seeing honest and religious persons endeavoring to 
influence the consciences of others. In my opinion, the 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 277 

only missionaries whose labors are pleasing in the sight 
of God, are those who work to abolish immoral or cruel 
worships ; but religious services, no matter how impro- 
per they may appear to us, are all worthy offerings to 
God, if they are performed in good faith, and with the 
aim of worshipping Him." 

Before concluding this letter, I will make one remark. 
An American traveller has stated, that Cuban clergymen 
sometimes failed to attend mass at the hour appointed, 
and kept the whole congregation waiting for them, on 
account of being engaged in cock-fights. The fact, which 
I first considered an exaggeration, is nevertheless true, 
though it is not of frequent occurrence. I am also oblig- 
ed to say, for impartiality sake, that many clergymen are 
gamblers, and very fond of playing monte. 



12 



LETTER XLV. 

Canons (Canonigos.) — Friars — Their Property seized by the Spanish 
government — Nuns — Fanaticism — Anecdotes — Nuns, who be- 
came such by Repentance — Others who did it from a natm-al 
inclination. 



There is one class of clergymen called Canonigos, 
who enjoy large salaries, without having to do anything 
save going to the Cathedral twice a-day to sing in the 
choir. The hours fixed for this service are very incon- 
venient, selected perhaps on purpose, to prevent the 
public from seeing what takes place there. I went, how- 
ever one afternoon, and saw only three canons among 
several other persons in the choir. Salaries are now paid 
to a great number of individuals, who very seldom attend 
the service. A case has been related to me of a clergy- 
man residing at Madrid, who obtained one of these offices 
in the Cathedral of Havana, and enjoyed during three 
years a salary of over five thousand dollars per annum, 
without having ever left his place of residence. 

Some of these offices are acquired by competition; a 
literary controversy is convened, for the purpose of judg- 
ing who is the most learned of the competitors. The 
proceedings are public ; but the language used in the 
examination being Latin, the greater part of the audience 
are unable to judge of the impartiality of the Judges, who 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 279 

are thus more free to disregard the merits of the candi- 
dates, and yield to other influences. Intrigue in such 
cases, is almost invariably more powerful than science ; 
and as he who considers himself most unfit for the office, 
commonly seeks to exert by means of friends, &c, more 
influence on the judges than others, the situations are fre- 
quently awarded to the person least qualified. 

As a proof of this, Don Placido informed me, that 
eighteen lawyers once contended for the office of (relator) 
reporter to the Superior Court, and it was adjudged to 
one who was almost incapable of reading. It is true, 
that he was the only Spaniard among the competitors, 
the other seventeen being all Creoles. A glaring proof 
of the partiality and incredible barefacedness of the judges 
is, that among the candidates was the famous reporter 
Carmona, who had filled the same office with great abi- 
lity for many years in the Superior Court of Puerto 
Principe. " This," said Don Placido, " is only a new 
proof that Spaniards are as ignorant of the meaning of 
the word justice as of liberty." " There is no Spanish 
Judge," he added, "who would not, if allowed to do so, 
follow the example of a mayor in Peru, of whom a very 
curious occurrence is narrated : — A merchant, a friend of 
his, bought a large quantity of spectacles, which he found 
he could not sell, as the Indians do not lose their sight by 
old age. He then ordered that no person should be 
allowed to enter the church unless he had spectacles on. 
The merchant (See General Miller's work), sold them at 
a good price." 

There are still some Friars, but the admission of no- 
vices being prohibited, all religious orders will disappear 
in a few years. The extinction of these societies has 
been a great source of revenue to the Spanish govern- 
ment, which, like a bird of prey, has taken possession of 



280 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

their property, notwithstanding that the greatest part was 
obtained by donations from private persons. The churches 
have been converted into stores or barracks, and Captain 
Generals have never thought of devoting these revenues 
to the improvement of hospitals, and still less to public 
education. All these incomes are sent to Spain, where 
they are divided among the members of the Cabinet, as 
it is a well known fact that no account of the adminis- 
tration of Cuba is given to the Cortes. 

I should not close this letter without saying something 
concerning the Nuns. I cannot speak of the interior of 
their convents, nor of their manner of living, as the Phy- 
sician and the Priest, in extreme cases, are the only per- 
sons who are allowed to enter their dwelling. I have 
not even seen them, and I only heard their voices through 
screened windows when they sing in chorus upon certain 
solemn festivals. Public opinion is universally inclined 
in their favor; and the general belief is, that the most ri- 
gid morality is observed in those asylums. These virtu- 
ous women bury themselves in the full vigor of life, and 
devote their time to prayer, without enjoying any other 
worldly pleasures than making sweetmeats, and a few 
excellent dishes to be presented to the bishop, or to their 
confessors and friends, and short visits which their rela- 
tives pay them from time to time. 

It is a painful spectacle that is presented by a convent 
of Nuns, as they must be looked upon with pity, consider- 
ing that they are victims of fanaticism. In my opinion, 
the privation of those pleasures for whose enjoyments we 
were created, and which do not in the least injure our 
fellow-beings, can never be pleasing in the sight of God. 
Being, as they are, of a virtuous disposition, those women 
would become good mothers, and contribute in a power- 
ful manner to the happiness of their husbands and chil- 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 2S1 

dren, and to the improvement of future generations. 
Otherwise, they must be considered as trees, which die 
without having ever yielded any fruit. 

Several instances might be quoted in w r hich the sacri- 
.fice made by these persons may be considered an act of 
heroism, performed with eminent self-denial. Such is 
very frequently the case, and only a few have been 
prompted to do it by despair. An illusion, inspired by 
fanaticism, inculcates in their minds the thought that God 
calls them and wishes them to become His brides ; and a 
femenine vanity makes them desire this title. A dream, 
a delirium is really what they term a vocation. Unfor- 
tunate delusion, for which they pay by an enormous 
sacrifice ! 

Before taking the vow, the person who intends to be- 
come a Nun is required to live one year under the train- 
ing of the Convent. At the end of this time, she is dress- 
ed in the gayest and most sumptuous manner, and taken 
publicly through the streets. After this tempting trial, 
she is asked whether she still persevere in her purpose 
or no. If the answer is in the affirmative, the vows are 
taken, and she becomes a professed Nun (Monja prqfesaj. 
The world belongs to her no longer : on entering the 
Convent after the walk, it may be properly said that she 
enters her grave, because she will never go out of the 
building again, and even after her death, her remains will 
be^ interred in the common tomb, in the yard of the 
Convent. 

The confinement is so rigidly observed, that only in 
case of a general fire in the building, of an epidemic 
making its appearance among them, or of a w T ar, are they 
allowed to leave their dwelling. Communication with 
the outside is also so effectually prevented that even 



282 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

women are forbidden to enter the Convent, and only 
girls of a certain age are admitted for the purpose of 
receiving instruction. 

I have been told that all the Nuns are, or at least have 
been handsome, and that very few have had recourse to 
an immortal husband, after despairing of obtaining one 
among mortals. Instances of dissatisfaction manifested 
as to their manner of living have been also very seldom 
seen, and this proves I believe, that their lives within the 
cloisters are spent in contemplation and study, and entire- 
ly devoted to religion ; because, otherwise, it is not easy 
to imagine how so many women of habits, tastes and 
educations so widely different, could live peaceably toge- 
ther during their lives. 

Among the numberless stories which I might produce 
on this matter, I will only relate three that are the most 
interesting. An exceedingly handsome and learned young 
lady had the misfortune to yield to the inducements of 
her corrupt and covetous father, and stray from the 
paths of virtue. Without any inclination to celibacy, 
she thought that the cloister would be the most severe 
penalty she could inflict on herself to atone for a fault for 
which she, perhaps, was less to be blamed than her un- 
worthy progenitor. 

Another promising young lady, thought that she had 
been inspired by God ; that she had seen Him in a dream, 
and that He had told her to become a Nun. All possible 
efforts were made to convince her that there was no rea- 
lity about her dream, and that it was the effect of fancy ; 
but they were of no avail. Finally, she devoted herself 
so intensely to the preparatory studies, that she began to 
suffer severely with toothache, and her Latin lessons were 
necessarily delayed. Wishing to overcome this obstacle, 
which hindered the attainment of her end, she had all her 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 283 

teeth drawn out, though none of them were in bad condi- 
tion. The most singular feature of the case was, that they 
all grew again, which occurrence was considered a mi- 
racle. 

It is necessary to have a dowry in order to be admit- 
ted into a convent ; and the amount required in some of 
them, is three thousand dollars. This money is never 
returned, even in case the Nun should die a few days 
after having entered the cloister. In this manner, many, 
if not all these institutions have amassed an immense 
capital, which will at some future day become a prey to 
Spanish rapacity. A very handsome young lady, of a 
gay and amiable disposition, the daughter of a poor mili- 
tary man, once manifested to her parents and friends a 
sudden resolution to become a Nun, and requested their 
aid to make up the dowry, which she could not afford to 
pay. The success of this undertaking was very doubt- 
ful, as many wealthy persons, who if willing, might have 
contributed largely to form the dowry, did not wish to 
facilitate such a sacrifice. It was also rumored, that she 
had not a true vocation, and that she had resorted to that 
desperate measure, because her affection towards a very 
respectable and wealthy gentleman, did not meet with a 
suitable return. The obstacles in her way were almost 
insurmountable, but this only caused her resolution to be- 
come stronger still. She therefore went to see several 
rich ladies, in order to procure the required amount ; 
some promised to contribute, but ihese promises were not 
obtained until after long and warm discussions, as all per- 
sons on seeing the sacrifice that she was going to make, 
endeavored by all means in their power to dissuade her. 
The gentleman before alluded to, who had never suspect- 
ed that he was, as was said, the object of the youno- 
lady's affection, having learned what was passing, went 



284 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

in haste, to offer her with pleasure his heart and hand, an 
act which was highly extolled, and strongly recommended 
by all her friends, evincing thus in an uncontrovertible 
manner how unfounded were the rumors that had been 
divulged in regard to her. Her acquaintances and rela- 
tives on seeing such proof of her perfect vocation, soon 
completed the necesssary sum, and she took the vows in 
so solemn and fervent manner that all those who witness- 
ed the ceremony were highly gratified. 



LETTER XLVI. 

Public Instruction — Primary Schools — The Female Teacher of the 
Crumb (Miga.) — Ituarte's and Navarro's Institutes — A learn- 
ed Habanero — Want of Inducements for Learning — Spanish 
System of Stenography — Seminary of St. Charles — Royal Uni- 
versity — Schools for Colored People — Great Puffing of Teachers 
— Anecdotes. 

Though something about public instruction has *been 
already said in my letters, I think that a great void 
would be found in them, if they did not enter more mi- 
nutely upon the consideration of this truly important mat- 
ter. On looking over the works written on Cuba by 
foreigners, T find that in none of them has this subject 
been treated, and this also encourages me to carry out 
my views more confidently. 

If we first direct our attention to Primary Schools, we 
may properly say, that there is not a single one in the 
whole Island which can afford the benefits of gratuitous 
instruction. There are, indeed some, very few, where no 
compensation is required from scholars ; but they are sup- 
ported either by the parents, or by some liberal and gene- 
rous residents, who have not only to defray the expenses, 
but also to overcome the obstacles thrown in their way 
by the authorities. Under more or less trifling pretexts, 



2S6 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

every officer opposes the formation of new schools, and 
endeavors to have a direct concern in the management of 
those already established. Their aim, to say the truth, 
is to hold the sole control over these Institutes. 

Even in times when the Corporation styled the " Pa- 
triotic Society," was truly protected by the government, 
which then wished to gratify the Cubans, fearing that 
otherwise they would follow the example of their brethren 
of South America, there were in the whole city of Ha- 
vana and its neighborhood only thirty-three schools. The 
number of scholars attending each, did not amount to 
thousands, as is the case with those of New York ; and 
the aggregate number of children receiving instruction 
in all of them, was eight hundred and seventeen. The 
appropriations for some of these schools amounted only 
to ten dollars per month. 

The tuition in these establishments is confined to read- 
ing, writing, the four fundamental operations of arithme- 
tic — few getting any knowledge of fractions and the prin- 
cioles of the christian faith. These several branches are 
badlv taught, and acquired in a very imperfect manner. 
I have witnessed an examination in one of these schools, 
and saw there a proceeding which particularly attracted 
my attention. One of the exercises consisted in testing 
the boys' knowledge in orthography by requiring him to 
write what the teacher dictated from a book. The scho- 
lars were seated on three benches, two of which were 
placed lengthwise, and one across, and the teacher stood 
at one of the ends. As soon as he pronounced the word 
that had to be written, for instance, " homhre,"' he started 
and passed swiftly by the benches, saying to the boys in 
a very low tone of voice, which the bystanders could not 
hear " with an h and a b ;" with this help it was scarcely 
possible to make a single mistake. 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 287 

I have also seen several schools for girls, which are 
called Migas (Crumbs), where besides the branches al- 
ready referred to, they are taught to sew, and perform 
embroidery and other needle work. I entered one of 
them, accompanied by the Filibuster, who was with, me 
most of the time ; we there saw the female teacher, with 
her dress loose, and smoking a large segar, which she 
threw away as soon as we made our appearance. We 
hastened to leave the school, regretting to have occasion- 
ed the woman such trouble. None of the girls had reach- 
ed the age of ten ; some were only four, or even three 
years old; and the only object in sending them to school, 
appeared to be that of keeping them still, or to free their 
mothers from their annoying play. 

There are some schools on a larger scale ; and several 
other branches of education besides those already men- 
tioned, are taught in them, though generally in a very 
imperfect manner. One of these Institutes, kept by Don 
Ramon Ituarte, seemed to me a well conducted establish- 
ment. I witnessed the examination of an advanced class 
in Spanish grammar, and the boys appeared to be well 
acquainted not only with it, but also with the princirjles 
of general grammar. I also have had occasion to see 
his gymnasium, and was much pleased with the careful- 
ness of the teacher in avoiding accidents, as well as with 
his friendly manner towards the children. 

The amount paid monthly by each day-scholar is, from 
four to ten dollars, according to the branches he learns. 

The schools are closed on Thursdays, Sundays, and all 
holidays. The school hours are from nine in the morn- 
ing to two in the afternoon ; and from 4 P. M. until dark. 
Examinations take place once in the year. 

The name of college is given to several Institutes, in 
which many branches of secondary education purports to 



288 LETTERS FROM CUBA- 

be taught in conjunction with others of primary instruc- 
tion. The greater part of the pupils board in the Insti- 
tute. One of the oldest and best managed establishments 
of this kind, is that known by the name of San Cristobal, 
whose director Don Rafael Navarro, is a person distin- 
guished by his virtues, learning, and great kindness to- 
wards the children. It is situated in the open country, 
on the brow of the hill where the fortress Castillo del 
Principe stands. The building is very large, and each 
pupil has a small room to himself. The charges are 
about thirty dollars per month. 

There is another college of this kind, whose director is, 
like the above, a native of Havana. His extensive learn- 
ing entitles him to be considered one of the savants of our 
age, and he would undoubtedly have acquired this repu- 
tation long ago, had he lived in any other country than 
Cuba. He is not so much known as he deserves to be, 
but does not wish to abandon his present retirement. I 
talked with him one evening in our language, with which 
he is thoroughly conversant, as well as with other mo- 
dern tongues, and Latin of course. He possesses an ex- 
cellent memory, and is master of a great many branches 
of science. He has not published any work, that I know 
of, except some articles in the newspapers many years 
ago, and an excellent translation of Volney's Travels. 
Strange as this might appear, it is not surprising in a 
country like this, where he would soon have incurred the 
suspicions of the government, even though his writings 
might have been entirely unconnected with politics. His 
opinions on this matter are unknown to me, our conver- 
sation having been wholly confined to literature, and on 
his travels through the United States and Europe. 

The other Institutions of this class, which have come 
under my inspection, might be properly designated by 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 289 

the name of " Money making enterprises," instead of 
seminaries of learning-. A great many parents, unfortu- 
nately, send their sons to receive instruction in them, as 
their chief object is not that they should acquire know- 
ledge, but that they should gain courses, as they say here ; 
that is, be promoted from the lower to the higher classes, 
and at last get a diploma, and follow a profession. Such 
must necessarily be the case in a country where exten- 
sive learning is of no practical advantage, but only serves 
to excite envy and jealousy from others, and suspicions 
from the government officers. 

In order to make these college speculations more pro- 
fitable, the number of teachers must be as small as possi- 
ble, and their salaries as low as they can be made. This 
principle, which is easily understood by the dullest per- 
son is never lost sight of, and fully carried out by the 
school speculators. A single professor in some of these 
colleges, has charge of six different classes ; and some 
teachers consider the full board which they receive at the 
college a fair remuneration for their services. Keeping 
these facts in view, a pretty accurate idea may be form- 
ed of the instruction that pupils receive in such estab- 
lishments. 

The parents, nevertheless, see that they are afterwards 
approved by the University ; that they are promoted to 
higher classes, and this is all they desire. The diploma 
of physician or lawyer is obtained, and this is considered 
sufficient. It is but natural to presume, that if this diplo- 
ma is not accompanied by sound learning and ability, it 
will be of no use; but such not being the case, an expla- 
nation must be offered of how, without knowledge, a good 
reputation is obtained, or at least success, which is what 
is generally looked for. 

If the scholar is about becoming a physician, he is sent 
13 



290 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

to Paris for two or three years, for the avowed purpose 
of receiving the last finish. He either studies or spends 
his time in amusements, and his parents in Cuba, mean- 
while, speak continually about the wonderful progress he 
has made, the premiums he has won, and the eulogies 
which his professors bestow on his abilities and talents. 
If he is intended to follow the legal profession, it is not 
learning that is required so much as a crafty and cunning 
disposition, with a large dose of submissiveness to flatter 
the government officers and the Judges of the Audiencia. 
Nothing is a source of greater gratification to these ma- 
gistrates, than the spectacle of a lawyer humbling him- 
self before them. I have been told, that a very stupid 
and foolish lawyer, has amassed a fortune by acting in the 
capacity of a menial to all the regents of the Audiencia who 
have accepted his services. I have been informed also, 
that these officers become highly incensed whenever they 
see a lawyer riding in his own carriage ; and it is said 
that one of them called Salas, who had been one of the 
founders of the aforesaid Court, used to say, that lawyers 
ought always to go on foot, with their papers under their 
arms, as he had seen them in Spain even on the high- 
ways. 

In one of the first class colleges, I saw some exercises 
in short-hand writing, and inquired about the system fol- 
lowed here, in order to judge of its merits, when compar- 
ed with that generally used in the United States. There 
are, indeed, many great dissimilarities, the most consider- 
able is, that they do not write sounds, but letters. The 
vowels are not marked with dots, but have particular 
signs ; and they use terminations, but not prefixes, and 
make no distinction between heavy and light lines. 
None of the pupils could write with any considerable 
rapidity; and according to what I have read in a modern 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 291 

Spanish work on " Eloquence," four writers using this 
system, were hardly sufficient to record the speeches of 
the members of Congress at Madrid. If this be the case, 
the superiority of our system is evident, for a single re- 
porter of any of our newspapers retires sometimes at ele- 
ven or twelve o'clock at night from a public meeting, and 
at seven o'clock the following morning, the subscribers 
may read already printed, a faithful report of the speeches 
delivered on the occasion. 

I have already spoken of the college that has been re- 
cently opened under the direction of the Jesuits, with the 
well understood design of checking the progress of repub- 
lican ideas, and of implanting in the hearts of the rising 
generation a base and slavish submission to tyranny. 
This difficult undertaking, I hope, will prove unsuccess- 
ful despite the efforts of the government. 

A gratuitous school of drawing was founded many 
years ago, in connection with a class in theoretical and 
practical machinery. A thorough reorganization of the 
school has lately taken place ; and many other branches 
of civil engineering have been added. There is also an 
old school for Navigation, on the other side of the bay, 
in the suburb called Regla ; but from causes unknown to 
me, the number of attendants are limited. It would not 
be surprising to learn, that the professors, as it is rumor- 
ed, are unfit for the office, as the Spanish government 
would thus be acting consistently with its principle of 
appointing to all offices the persons least worthy to fill 
them. 

Among the literary establishments of some importance 
in Havana, we may mention the Seminary of St. Charles 
and the University. No reference will here be made to 
the Seminary of Santiago de Cuba, for want of data. 
The Seminary of St. Charles was founded in 1774. A 



292 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

fixed number of young men destined for the ecclesiastical 
profession are instructed gratuitously in it; but not one 
half of them finally take the vows. The tuition is confin- 
ed to Latin, several branches of Natural Philosophy, 
and Theology. They are furnished with rooms and full 
board by the Institution, which is supported with the in- 
terest yielded by mortgages which it possesses, amount- 
ing to a considerable sum. There are only a few pro- 
fessors, but their salaries and perquisites are large. The 
director at present is a canon, and he enjoys, therefore, 
two large salaries, besides full board, which is furnished 
by the seminary. 

The University was founded in 1728, and reorganized 
in 1842, when an entirely new system of instruction was 
adopted. It is only designed for the tuition of those who 
intend to follow the legal or medical profession, and is 
chiefly supported by the instalments paid by the scholars. 
It possesses a small cabinet of Physics, a chemical Labo- 
ratory, a collection of objects for the study of Natural 
History, and a small Library. It has over thirty profes- 
sors receiving pretty good salaries. The study of Law 
has been lately modified and improved, as it was previous- 
ly pursued in a very careless and imperfect manner. In 
regard to Medicine, some improvements have also been 
made. A dissection room was established, and also a 
class in Anatomy a few years ago, both which requisites 
to a complete course, were before wanting. 

The study of Botany, began in the year 1825, but the 
professor appointed was utterly ignorant of the science 
he was required to teach. The most striking feature of 
the case is, that he has been teaching only a few years, 
and has enjoyed for over twenty years a salary of two 
thousand dollars per annum, without attending to his 
class. The establishment of a class in chemistry, is still 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 293 

more recent, and there are many physicians who are not 
acquainted with this science. I do not mean to say, how- 
ever, that if they were well instructed in these branches, 
the mortality among their patients would be less ; for 
many persons believe, and my own opinion on this matter 
does not differ much from theirs, that he who knows the 
most of this uncertain science, is frequently the person 
who least studies it. In adducing the above facts, it is 
only my purpose to enable you to judge of the interest 
taken here in the instruction of youth in the several 
branches, and thus carry out the purpose of this letter. 

The spectacle presented by a school of mulattoes and 
negroes, has been a source of no little surprise to me. 
There are many for boys and girls indiscriminately, and 
the average attendance at each, is from twenty to thirty. 
The instruction imparted in them is exceedingly scanty, 
and in some it is confined to the teaching of religious 
prayers. Some of these schools were once supported by 
the " Patriotic Society ;" but this Institution is now on the 
decline. The Spanish government does not like the 
epithet " Patriotic," and secretly endeavors to sink it in- 
to nothingness. A portion of the Board of Managers 
some years ago, zealously promoted the improvement of 
public education; but it seems that the greater part of the 
inhabitants are not fully aware of its paramount impor- 
tance. The most considerable efforts ever made, have 
not been certainly, of any great consequence ; and the 
great praises and exaggerated eulogies bestowed on their 
authors or promoters, cannot be looked upon but as unde- 
served. No large donation like those of Cooper, Astor, 
&c, have ever been made, as far as I know, for the esta- 
blishment of educational Institutes : however, this is not 
to be wondered at, as the government assumes the ma- 
nagement of all the funds devoted to the public good ; 



294 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

and few persons are willing to exclude their heirs from a 
property which, after all, will not be employed for the 
purposes designated by them. 

One of the means employed to promote competition 
among the directors of schools, was to publish in the 
newspapers the reports given by the persons appointed 
to preside over the examinations, who, in accordance 
with the Spanish custom, were commonly those least fit 
for the charge. This would undoubtedly have exerted a 
beneficial influence on education, if the most rigid impar- 
tiality could have been observed in the reports, and great 
care taken of their correctness ; but such was not the 
case. The rhetorical resources of the language were put 
to the test, in order to produce the greatest possible puffs, 
and long articles appeared in the papers, in which the me- 
rits of the professors, and the wonderful progress of the 
pupils were greatly extolled. The writers of these docu- 
ments, were at last found to be the same professors whom 
they so much praised, as the Judges were frequently in- 
capable of writing them. The parents, however, soon 
perceived that their sons, who were represented in the 
reports as learned, were very ignorant, and these false 
promulgations soon received their merited contempt. 

Those who possessed true excellence, were jumbled in 
a common eulogy with the most ignorant and least gifted, 
and this injustice is still practised by the professors of the 
University in their awards of the title of excellence, 
(sobresaliente). 

If the student belongs to an influential family, and an- 
swers in a satisfactory manner two or three questions 
during the examinations, he readily obtains the title sur- 
passing. Sometimes all the pupils forming a class, are 
favored with this distinction : and it would be but natu- 
ral to ask, whom do they surpass 1 



LETTERS FROM CUBA.. 295 

I witnessed once the examinations in the University, 
and the following incident occurred, which I think is 
worth relating. One of the boys made a short sketch of 
Columbus' first voyage, and the Rector or President, who 
is always a Spaniard, inquired of him, who in his opinion, 
had shown the most courage, Columbus or his followers. 
The scholar well knew that the latter intended to oblige 
their leader to return to Spain, fearing to meet with a 
watery grave; but considering that the great navigator 
was a Genoese, and that the others were countrymen of 
the inquirer, he thought it more for his interest to answer, 
" The Spaniards." The Rector, elated with joy, cried 
out, "Bravo!" and this reply gained for him, I believe, 
the mark of " surpassing." 

I cannot refrain from translating in this place a para- 
graph from a pamphlet in Spanish, published in New 
York two or three years ago, which you may have not 
read, and which I think will be found very suitable to 
illustrate the subject under consideration. 

" The discovery of the New World, is one of the feats 
most extolled by the Spaniards,- but history teaches us, 
that if their vessels reached the American Islands before 
those of other nations, it was in spite of the efforts of the 
Spaniards, who followed the illustrious Genoese, and who 
in their villany and cowardice, intended to compel him 
to return, and threatened to throw him overboard. And 
if this crime was not perpetrated, it was on account of a 
greater fear, as they were utterly ignorant of the art of 
navigation, and could not have returned without the assis- 
tance of the great discoverer. If Columbus had not been 
accustomed to despise the Spanish boasting, or if he had 
feared their threats, there can be no doubt that the disco- 
very would have been made by other nations, as he would 
have returned to Spain without effecting it." 



296 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

This fact will prove also the correctness of the follow- 
ing remark made in one of my former letters. " Spaniards 
fortunately for their pride, forget all these historical par- 
ticulars, which tend to impair in the least the glory of 
their nation.' 1 



LETTER XLYII. 

" Economical Society," — Its Seal — Object — Evil and good produced 
by the Institution — Appai-ent increase of the White Population 
. — The Secretary — The four per cent. Tax — Anecdote — Dissem- 
bled Demonstrations — Charitable Institutions — Abuses — Don 
Mariano Arango — Jail — Dungeons, (Bartolinas). 

In the early part of the year 1793, the " Economical 
Society of the Friends of the Country," was founded on 
the principles of other corporations of the same kind esta- 
blished at Santiago de Cuba, and Madrid; but its true 
name was seldom given to it, and it has been generally 
called " Patriotic Society," until that epithet has been 
considered too revolutionary, and but few Creoles dare 
to use it now. 

The Seal adopted by this Society represents three cas- 
tles, emblematic of the city, accompanied with this motto, 
" Regi et Patrice." The king is therefore placed before 
the country, a principle fully in accordance with the 
maxim of despots. The motto was proposed by the 
founders of the Institution, who thus evinced a submis- 
siveness, which their brethren of Santiago de Cuba had 
not committed, as their motto is, " Surge et Age." The 
latter seems also to be more suitable for a society whose 
object is to promote the public interest through the zeal 
and perseverance of its members. 



298 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

The purposes of the Society were, to " promote agri- 
culture and commerce, the breeding of cattle, the industry 
of the country in genera), and as occasion offered, the 
education and instruction of youth." These words are 
quoted from the first article of the petition published by 
those patriots, asking the king to approve the plan, and 
by-laws of the Institution. It will be perceived, that in 
this instance also, public instruction is the last of the pur- 
poses of the Society; besides, being attended to "only 
when it should be considered convenient :" as the mean- 
ing of the Spanish adverb oportunamenie, clearly points 
out. Accordingly, the section of the Board on whom 
this part of the programme devolved, did not begin its 
labors until the year 1816. The supreme government at 
Madrid, did not approve that the Society should endea- 
vor to promote commerce, and declared that this must be 
done only in accordance with the existing regulations on 
the subject: that is, that it should confine itself to the 
promotion of inland commerce. 

The government was also careful in ordering, that the 
sessions should take place under the supervision of the 
government officer, who should also act as president; 
and that the essays, or other writings of the members, 
should not be published without having been previous- 
ly examined and approved by the censors. 

This Institution is represented by some, as a source 
from which great advantages have accrued to the coun- 
try, while many others deny the assertion, and consider 
the progress of the Island as the effect of its geographi- 
cal position, and other favorable circumstances in that 
period. Others still believe, that it has been mischievous 
in its results, not only on account of the erroneous ideas 
of its chief members on Political Economy, but also, be- 
cause, actuated by the desire of increasing their planta- 



LETTERS FROM CUBA, 299 

lions, they have uniformly and eagerly encouraged the 
importation of African slaves, the future enemies of the 
country, and totally neglected a more useful emigration, 
that of white settlers, which would have been a great and 
increasing benefit to the country. This latter opinion, 
seems to me to be the most reasonable. 

Some will, perhaps argue, that great efforts have been 
made to promote the immigration of white people, and 
will adduce as a proof, the existence of several royal de- 
crees and regulations, having this end in view ; but this 
argument may be very satisfactorily answered. The first 
requisite demanded of the settlers, is that they should 
profess the Catholic creed; and the exercise of all other 
forms of religion are rigidly forbidden. This alone, ex- 
cludes at once a large number of immigrants. Then if 
any wish to leave the country before residing there five 
years, they have to pay to the Exchequer ten per cent, of 
all the property they have acquired ; and this per cent- 
age increases to fifteen, when they have been over five 
years in the country. 

In those decrees and regulations, much indeed, is said 
about protection, &c, ; but the few foreigners who have 
taken up their abode here, experience every day the falla- 
cy of such offers and promises, and find that there is per- 
sonal safety nowhere in Cuba, and that property is wholly 
unprotected. Such being the case with the natives, it is 
reasonable to expect that foreigners should be stili in a 
more precarious position. 

No lands were offered to the immigrants, nor small ad- 
vances or loans to provide for their maintenance, from 
their landing until they could get situations or sell the 
agricultural products which they might raise. Several 
efforts were indeed made to afford these facilities, but 
they were never carried out, as the funds devoted to this 



300 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

purpose, were scarcely sufficient to pay the Secretary's 
salary, amounting to one hundred dollars per month, 
though he had no duties to perform. The branch of the 
Institution which encouraged immigration, was supported 
by a duty tax of six dollars, collected from each African 
negro imported ; as at that time the slave trade v/as autho- 
rized. The evil inflicted on the country by this trade, 
was then enhanced by some slight advantages ; but after 
the trade was suppressed in theory, and continued in 
practice, the benefit to the country ceased entirely, and 
the Captain Generals' pockets soon became the reservoir 
of the accruing advantages. The immigration branch of 
the Association being left without income, and the Secre- 
tary not feeling disposed to lose his pittance, a person, 
whose name I have not been able to learn, devised a plan 
to supply the Institution with funds, by imposing a tax 
of four per cent, on the fees of lawyers, attorneys and no- 
taries public. This exaction did not extend to physi- 
cians; and as the Secretary belonged to this profession, 
there is some reason to believe that he was the author of 
the motion. 

In order that an idea may be formed of the facility 
with which taxes are imposed here, I will prolong the 
subject. The Board fully concurred in the expediency 
of this device on the eleventh of February, 1832, and 
since that moment the collection of the tax was ordered 
by the government, and carried into effect without wait- 
ing for the approval of the Cabinet at Madrid. This is 
proved by the fact, that a statement was published in the 
official papers at the time, showing that this item had 
yielded seventy-five thousand one hundred and sixteen 
dollars, from February 1832 until the end of the year 
1835. In regard to the approval, I am informed that it 
has not arrived yet. Before closing this subject, I have 



LETTERS PROM CUBA. 301 

only to add, that the government finally took possession 
even of this four per cent., and devoted it to pay the sala- 
ries of the Judges of the Superior Court. The slightest 
shadow of the famous " Fund for Promoting the Immi- 
gration of White Settlers," was thus dispelled ; and it is 
not impossible that the death of the Secretary, which oc- 
curred shortly afterwards, was produced by the grief of 
seeing the entire abandonment of the plans for increas- 
ing the white population, which had so much increased 
his private fortune. 

The " Patriotic Society" has produced also many evils, 
which its warmest partizans will not dare to deny. The 
government has often used its members as mere tools for 
concealing its enormities ; and by means of its influence 
individually exerted on many of them, compels the whole 
Board to yield to its desires, thus giving a thin coat of 
legal varnish, as it has been properly called, to acts of 
the most flagrant despotism. This is clearly deduced 
from the fact, that the government in order to support 
many of its tyrannical regulations, has endeavored to ex- 
tend the objects of the Society to subjects which were 
not within the scope of its fundamental principles. This 
is the cause of a phenomenon which cannot take place in 
free countries, but is often observed here. Reports or 
memorials are sometimes seen, signed by several persons, 
who, in their private conversations, utter opinions in open 
contradiction with these set forth in those papers, and 
even mock and laugh at the documents. 

Hence the reason why congratulations, illuminations, 
or even contributions, and offers of lives and property 
from the inhabitants to the government, cannot be consi- 
dered as proofs of attachment. If a person, in order to 
flatter a government officer, endeavors to do anything 
in his favor by a general subscription, even to present a 



302 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

walking cane to him, nobody dares refuse to contribute 
for the purchase of the article, fearing to be considered 
as averse to the government, or as an insurgent. This is 
also the only clue that has been found to the fact, that 
Senor Concha has been able to obtain sufficient subscrip- 
tions to the capital of the Bank recently opened in Ha- 
vana. He only had to point out, that the enterprize had 
the political object of strengthening the dependence of the 
Colony upon the Mother Country; the Spaniards prompt- 
ly tendered their assistance to carry out this patriotic 
undertaking ; and the Creoles fearing to incur the suspi- 
cions of the government, purchased more stock than their 
means would justify. 

Such occurrences are frequently transpiring, however 
incredible such pusillanimity may appear. I know a 
Creole who did not place lights in the front of his- house, 
as was generally done, when the news that Lopez had 
been made prisoner was received at the Capital : all his 
neighbors were Catalonians, and on seeing his strange 
behavior, inquired from him the cause ; he answered that 
he had no curtains and no candlesticks for the lights, 
whereupon they sent him everything needed, and furnish- 
ed even the candles. 

One of the objects of the "Economical Society," was 
to promote the study and discussion of all questions of 
paramount importance to the welfare of the Island. It 
offered rewards to the author of the best essay on every 
subject presented for discussion ; but the payment was 
never effected, and great injustice was often committed 
in the awards. Several competitors entered the field at 
first to contend for the prizes, but having been disappoint- 
ed, they retired forever from the arena. Such a result 
was to be expected, as the public are not easily deceived. 
If the awards to these essays had been made by learned 



LETTERS PROM CUBA. 303 

and rigidly impartial judges, the want of pecuniary re- 
wards would not have prevented the enlistment of com- 
petitors, as the encomiums in that case would have been 
looked upon as deserved ; but these requisites not being 
attended to, the awards were not and could not be consi- 
dered as a proof of real merit, but as the consequence of 
the efforts of influential friends, or as the effect of the su- 
perior craft of the triumphant author. 

Several persons belonging to the " Economical Soci- 
ety," have indeed zealously urged the establishment of 
charitable institutions. Among those founded by them, 
we may mention the " Charitable House," (Casa de Bene- 
jlcencia), the " Foundling Asylum," (Casa CunaJ, and 
the " Insane Asylum," (Casa de Locos). Their incomes 
are comparatively small ; they are managed in a very 
careless manner ; and the numerous abuses of the direc- 
tors, swell the expenses to an enormous sum, so that the 
number of persons enjoying the benefits afforded by the 
Institutions are necessarily small. The wives of O'Don- 
nell and Roncali well knew how to turn the work of the 
girls in the Charitable House to their own advantage. 
They ordered them to sew and embroider so large a 
quantity of bedding, that it is generally believed that their 
purpose was to make presents, or to sell them in Spain. 

The Foundling Asylum was founded for the purpose 
of bringing up children left by their mothers at the doors 
of the buildings, either on account of not having the 
means of supporting them, or from not wishing to recog- 
nize them as their children. The usefulness of such an 
Asylum has been questioned by many ; some consider it 
as rather immoral. A highly virtuous clergyman, Don 
Mariano Arango, devoted the latter part of his life to pro- 
mote the interests of this Institution, with a zeal and dis- 
interestedness worthy of the greatest praise. 



304 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

Persons like this honorable priest, are unfortunately 
seldom met with, and the common practice with people 
under such circumstances, is to take advantage of every 
available opportunity of speculating with the funds of the 
Institutions under their care, and to appropriate to them- 
selves as much of them as possible. This speculating spi- 
rit extends sometimes even to the quality of the food and 
medicines administered, to the great annoyance and dis- 
comfort of the inmates. I have been in the halls of San 
Juan de Dios Hospital, and could not stand the bad smell 
which one encounters in them. The meals also were of 
an inferior quality, and exhaled a rather unpleasant odor. 
An inquiry having been made by the government into 
the proceedings of the directors of San Lazaro Hospital, 
the most disgraceful abuses came to light. 

The Jail of Havana, erected during the administration 
of General Tacon, is a building covering a large area, but 
the yard, as is almost invariably the case here, occupies 
more ground than the superstructure. Ventilation, how- 
ever, has been so much disregarded, that a nauseous 
smell is felt at once on entering the building. The se- 
cond story is not quite so offensive, and is devoted to the 
lodging of troops. The dungeons (bartolinas), of which 
so much has been said, may be considered with proprie- 
ty, as real graves, on account of their darkness, damp- 
ness, and filthiness. Numberless hungry rats, of an enor- 
mous size have taken their abode in them ; and the un- 
happy prisoners, who for any cause are lodged in these 
dungeons to avoid all intercourse with other people, can 
do nothing but to repel the attempts of these animals to 
devour their feet. The pleasure which Spaniards expe- 
rience in torturing people, is clearly evinced by the use 
they make of these dungeons. It is not necessary that 
a man should have been previously declared guilty, to 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 305 

throw him into these prisons ; the mere belief that it may 
be convenient to conceal his evidence from the other pri- 
soners' knowledge is sufficient. Many, after fifteen or 
twenty days' confinement and sufferings, are declared not 
guilty ; and those who do not die from the consequences, 
have their health so much impaired, that they retain the 
most painful recollections of their imprisonment during 
the remainder of their lives. 



13* 



LETTER X L VIII. 

Cuban Literature — Regulations of the Press — Their Defects — Cen- 
sorship — Abuses committed by the Censors — Cuban Apathy — 
Bimonthly Review — Other Publications — Poets — Cuban Aca- 
demy of Literature — Obstacles — Written Legal Reports — Anec- 
dotes. 

Some writers entertain the belief that literature does 
not exist in Cuba, and consider it a very strange occur- 
rence; but in my opinion, what is most to be wondered 
at, is, that there should exist even the little that remains, 
or that a single individual would be found willing to 
write. I have read with surprise a book written by a 
Spaniard, in which he remarks, that he is unable to assign 
any cause for the scarcity of Cuban writers, especially 
poets, when the climate of the country is especially adapt- 
ed to develope the mind, and unfold the imagination in 
80 quick and wonderful a manner. Those who promul- 
gate these opinions, either endeavor to feign ignorance, 
or are wholly unacquainted with the system of censor- 
ship in force in Cuba, of which an idea may be formed by 
the following remarks, which cannot but be considered 
appropriate. 

A law has indeed been enacted on this subject, but on 
comparing it with the practice, it will be readily seen 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 307 

that it is not enforced. It was promulgated in Havana 
early in the year 1835 ; but an order was simultaneously 
given to all printers, forbidding them to print the most 
trifling paper, without its being previously examined by 
the Censors, and a permit granted for its publication, 
whether the subject was among those designated by the 
law as not requiring examination or not. A pretty good 
idea may hereby be formed of the honesty and sincerity 
of a government, which publish a law through the streets 
and public places with a great parade and martial music, 
and at the same time order that it be not observed. This 
is, however, what really occurs in Cuba, and it is exactly 
so with the treaties made with England as to the slave 
trade. 

Besides this order, which destroyed almost entirely the 
new law, the Censors made another alteration. They 
wholly disregarded the provision of the law which re- 
quired them to state the reasons, on which their refusal to 
permit the publication of a manuscript rested. In some 
instances, they have required the editor of a newspaper 
to tell the author of an article, that the manuscript had 
been lost or forgotten, as an excuse for not publishing it. 
As these editors are at the mercy of the Censors, it is 
their interest to please them, and comply with their wishes. 
They have no other resource than relating their sufferings 
to their friends, and sometimes even to the very authors 
whose articles ljave been represented as mislaid. No use 
can be made of this information confidentially imparted, 
as the editor if requested to testify, would deny the truth- 
fulness of the assertion, and the Censor would remain un- 
punished. 

There is also a fault in this law, which is observed in 
nine-tenths of all the Spanish laws, it is, that no penalty 
was laid upon the Censors who would not comply with 



308 LETTERS FROM CUBA, 

the provision of setting forth the causes of their refusal. 
It wanted, therefore, in this respect, what Jurists call 
sanction, and hence the reason why it might easily be vio- 
lated. The sanction affixed to some laws is quite ridicu- 
lous, and is reduced to the saying " Pena de nuestra 
mcrced:" that is, " The king will be displeased." There 
is in the Indian Code a law, by which the use of horses is 
forbidden to Indians in several districts of Mexico. It 
begins with a long preamble, and the prohibition comes 
at the end ; but there is no penalty imposed upon those 
who violate the law. The Indians did not pay the least 
attention to such a regulation; and by the side of it there 
is another law, which says: " Having been informed that 
the former law is not observed, I charge and command 
the Viceroys to enforce it." They undoubtedly did not 
comply with the command, as there is still another regu- 
lation complaining of the non-observance of the law, and 
ordering its enforcement again ; but even after all that 
had occurred, the law-maker did not think of laying a 
penalty upon the infractors. 

The total disregard of that part of the law on publica- 
tions, which requires the reason of each refusal to be 
stated, makes the censorship perfectly arbitrary, and gives 
rise to many abuses that are practised with impunity. 
Thus one of the Censors, Olafieta, did not allow a person 
named Bachiller, to publish an article advertising a cop- 
per mine, because a friend of his was thereby injured. 
Bachiller then complained to the Captain General, who 
was greatly surprised at the injustice of the refusal, 
and granted the permit. The Censors in doubtful 
cases, use to refuse their permits for the publication 
of manuscripts, and the reasons for so doing are ob- 
vious. If they allow them to be published, they incur 
perhaps, some responsibility ; but if they refuse the per- 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 309 

mit, they do not run any risk. The last course is there- 
fore adopted, and the manuscripts are not published. 

The following anecdote, will give a pretty accurate 
idea of the imperfection of the colonial regime in force in 
Cuba, and its great defects. A person required Larraza- 
bal, the Notary Public of whom I have already spoken, 
to give him a certificate. The Notary asked for a sheet 
of stamp-paper of the eight dollar quality, to write it 
upon ; and the party replied that according to law, the 
dollar and a half stamp paper was sufficient. " The case 
is rather doubtful," replied Larrazabal, " but if I ask 
less, I may be fined, and if more, there is no responsibility 
incurred." " I will address myself to the Court," said 
the party. " Well," said the Notary, " the application 
will cost you more than the amount of the difference, and 
if the Judge should yield to your demand, I would not 
obey him, as the responsibility is still on me. It would 
therefore be necessary for you to apply to the Board of 
Managers of the Royal Treasury, and then the expenses 
would amount to four times the difference, and you would 
not get the certificate in two months." Such annoyances 
can be inflicted by a Notary, who occupies in Cuba al- 
most the lowest degree in the social scale ; and it is not 
difficult to imagine how easily wrongs on the public may 
be perpetrated by government officers. 

Cubans should, however, consider that the many wrongs 
inflicted on them by the government, are a consequence 
of their own apathy and indifference to the public inte- 
rests. "When the government commits any enormity, 
it receives no censure, nor are any protests made 
against its. proceedings, and it frequently employs the 
Creoles themselves as instruments for justifying its most 
arbitrary procedures. The people, generally speaking, 
do not complain of the acts of the government when they 



310 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

are not directly injured by them ; and even when this is 
the case, they suffer the evils, provided they be not of a 
very serious character. 

The freedom, or rather the toleration allowed to the 
press by the Captain Generals, was more considerable 
before the law referred to was enacted, as may easily be 
seen by merely reading the papers published at that time, 
and comparing them with those now issued. There is 
scarcely a Cuban at the present time whose writings are 
published, as the press is entirely in the hands of the 
Spaniards, who are the authors of most of the articles 
published in the papers. A few on politics, however, 
are written by Creoles, who seem to have no other end 
in view, than to show their utter baseness and mean- 
ness. Such writings, therefore, deserve no consider- 
ation either for the subject they treat, or for the manner 
in which they are discussed. 

The " Bimonthly Review," (Revista BimestrcJ, was 
regularly published three or four years before the enact- 
ment of the aforesaid law. The " Cuban Society of Li- 
terature," established that periodical publication under 
the editorship of the well known Creole, Jose Antonio 
Saco. He had formerly been editor of a weekly Spanish 
newspaper, printed in New York, which was freely cir- . 
culated throughout the Island, though it contained some 
articles, which at the present time would not be consider- 
ed safe for the Cuban people to read. This also would 
happen, most probably, with some published in the afore- 
said Review. 

Several other publications appeared before the year 
1S34, in which the most liberal principles and sentiments 
were set forth, as may be easily perceived by reading a 
disquisition on " The lawful causes of War ;" and another, 
*' On the Inviolability of the Members of the Cortes," 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 311 

published in the " Cuban Repertory," (Repertorio Cu- 
bano). In the newspapers of that time, several points 
in Political Economy, and even in the management of 
public affairs, were discussed so boldly, that their authors 
for fear of being persecuted, would not now dare even 
to ask permission to publish them. 

Besides the few works already referred to, I have seen 
others written by those known here by the name of 
Vareld's disciples, which are considered excellent. They 
are certainly pretty good ; but I have read some others 
which seem to be entirely unknown, although they de- 
serve much credit. I regret that the plan which I have 
endeavored to pursue, does not allow me to dwell more 
fully on the subject; for though I cannot boast of posses- 
sing a vast knowledge of Cuban literature, there are, I 
believe, many interesting matters not yet published. My 
remarks, on the other hand, might awake the suspicions 
of the government to the injury of many former authors 
and writers who are still living; and hence another rea- 
son to withhold all comment. 

Poets have been more abundant in the Island, and even 
at the present time the newspapers are flooded with son- 
nets and other compositions. A Senor Abreu, especially, 
has made the public familiar with his prolific genius, 
which he employs in commemorating the birth-days of 
his friends or patrons. I believe, that in many of these 
compositions, there is a total disregard of metre, and a 
syllable more or less than the required number seems to 
be a matter of no consequence. In regard to originality 
of ideas and excellence of thoughts, which is a matter of 
more importance, I have found very little which could 
be properly classified under those heads. 

Heredia is the father of Cuban poets, but he is not 
alone in his Helicon, as the old Zequeira, and the modern 



312 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

Placido, Brinas, &c, have already found a seat near his. 
I do not mention the poetess Avellaneda among these 
bards, because though a native of Cuba, I perceive that 
she likes to present her harmonious compositions to the 
Naiads of the Tajo, better than to those of the Almen- 
dares. 

The establishment of the " Cuban Academy of Litera- 
ture," which was founded in 1834, would have been in 
any other country, and under different circumstances, the 
source of much good. Its existence was, however so 
ephemeral, that there are scarcely any vestiges of its ca- 
reer. Several members of the " Economical Society," 
incited by Canon O'Gaban, who was their president, re- 
solved to put an end to it, which they succeeded in doing 
through representations made to the government on the 
anti-royalist opinions of its members. The fruits of such 
an Institution would have always been very meagre with 
an enslaved press, and being, as it was, under the jealous 
eyes of the Spanish authorities. 

But the censorship is not the only obstacle in Cuba to 
the progress of literature. There are no inducements for 
acquiring a thorough knowledge of any branch ; and a 
superficial instruction seems to answer all desired purpo- 
ses. The love of show, is generally, in my opinion, more 
intense than that of learning. Nevertheless, I have read 
a writing by a Creole, which very few persons are ac- 
quainted with, and which would perhaps deserve a pro- 
minent place in the best Reviews. There is nowhere in 
the Island a Library which is worthy being called such ; 
and books, on account of their slow and uncertain sale, 
are very dear. The works published in Spain, sell here 
at an advance of two hundred and fifty per cent, on the 
regular prices, as they charge one real columnario (twelve 
and a half cents), for every real devellon (five cents). 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 313 

I might say much about the written legal reports used 
here, as a great deal of information on this point has been 
furnished me ; but a single remark will suffice to demon- 
strate, that very little worthy of being noticed can be 
found in them. The defence is not free : the magistrates 
require a profound respect on the part of the lawyers, and 
the least disregard towards the Judges, or bold assertion 
in favor of the party, is punished with fines ; and in some 
cases, the Counsellor is forbidden to follow his profession 
for a certain period of time. These severe penalties are 
imposed without a previous trial, and Judges have only 
to give their decrees, and they are fully carried out. The 
utmost limits to which the lawyer can go are not deter- 
mined, nor are penalties assigned beforehand to those 
who trespass those bounds ; so that in his uncertainty as 
to the meaning in which his words are going to be taken, 
he does not maintain in a proper manner the rights of his 
client. 

Judges also have it in their power to injure lawyers by 
reducing their fees, without even mentioning any cause 
whatever ; and as there is no tariff for regulating them, 
they can do it at random, though according to law, two 
other lawyers must concur in the abatement. Judges, 
however, very seldom exercise this power, except when 
the party who must pay the costs has some influence over 
them. The amount, then, is generally reduced to two- 
thirds or three-fourths of its original value. It is said 
that a Judge of the Audiencia curtailed the costs of the 
proceedings against a man who had failed, amounting to 
twelve thousand dollars, to four thousand, for the consi- 
deration of one hundred doubloons (one thousand seven 
hundred dollars), presented to him by the party. 

The following anecdote, which will close this letter, 
will serve as a proof to many of the foregoing assertions. 
14 



314 LETTERS FROM CUBA, 

Three or four years ago, a physician named Esparrago, 
had a long controversy through the newspapers with 
several other members of the same profession. One of 
them wrote an article against Esparrago, and showed the 
manuscript to several of his friends, who after reading it y 
advised him not to publish it. He refused to comply 
with their wishes, and said that his character was involv- 
ed in the affair. The article was sent to the Censor, who 
read it, and found no reason to prohibit its publication' 
He, nevertheless resolved to refuse his permit, but before 
issuing his arbitrary veto, he wished to try other means. 
He sent a note to the author requesting an interview, and 
though he had never seen him before, told him, that he 
advised him, not as a government officer, but as a friend, 
not to publish the paper. The author, who had not paid 
any attention to the advice of his most intimate friends, 
readily yielded to the requirement of the Censor. It 
seems that his character was no longer interested in the 
publication. How easy it is for the government to obtain 
anything it choses from the Cubans ! 



LETTER XLIX. 

Hatred of Spaniards towards Americans — Their mutual contempt of 
each other — Young Inchaustegui — Court for the Examination of 
Accounts — Don Ramon Gonzalez — Abuses by the Managers of 
the Government Revenues — Lottery Tickets — Creole Mulattoes 
— Spaniards of African descent — Laws which are enforced with- 
out having been ever published. 

On looking over the subjects which have been already 
treated in former letters, I find that many item have been 
accidentally omitted ; but thinking that they should not 
be passed unnoticed, I will briefly refer to them in this 
letter, which will be a kind of Appendix to those that 
preceded it. 

Something has been said already on the hatred of the 
Spaniards towards Americans. At first, my want of suf- 
ficient knowledge of the language, did not allow me to 
understand many phrases which were frequently uttered 
in my presence. But now, it very seldom happens that 
I pass before a cluster of Spaniards, especially soldiers, 
seamen, or storekeepers, without hearing insulting words 
addressed to me in a very indirect manner, trusting that 
I would not understand them. It is rather hard on many 
occasions, to pass them by, without noticing their conver- 
sation ; but to pay the least attention to them, would often 



316 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

render it necessary to resort to personal chastisement, and 
the risk would then be incurred of being lodged in the 
jail, and confined with murderers, thieves, &c. I could 
not, however, restrain myself one day ; after I had pass- 
ed two soldiers, who uttered some insulting expressions, 
I instantly returned, and demanded an explanation. They 
answered me in an humble manner, and very meekly re- 
tracted what they had said. 

This hatred on the part of Spaniards is nothing strange, 
as their predominant passion is that of hatred. Even the 
natives of a Province hate those born in any other. They 
are, besides, in the habit of despising all foreigners, but 
in this they do not remain unpunished, as all foreigners 
look in the most contemptuous manner on these poor 
wretches. 

Cubans, on the other hand, are kind and obliging to- 
wards foreigners in general, and especially exert them- 
selves to please Americans. There exists, however, some 
ill-will between the natives of the different sections of the 
country. The people of Havana for instance, when 
speaking of the natives of Puerto Principe and other 
places, often say, " The Tierradentro" (a name given to 
all persons of the interior) " who does not play a 
trick at the beginning, will play it at the end," (El que 
no la Tiace a la entrada, la hace a la salida); and they in 
turn say, speaking of the Capital, " La Habana es vana," 
that is " Havana is foppish." 

The late elopement of the Spanish singer, Sefiorita 
Santa Fe with young Inchaustegui, has brought to light 
a very strange and singular interview which her mother 
had with General Concha some time before the occur- 
rence. She requested him to prohibit the young man 
to pass through the street where she lived, and to go to 
the theatre, as they by that means succeeded in speaking 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 317 

to each other despite her prohibition. Concha replied, 
that he could not issue such an order without being con- 
sidered an extravagant or foolish Governor, but that he 
would banisli the young man to Spain. To do this, in- 
deed, he had only to represent to the Supreme Govern- 
ment, "that the safety of the Island was, in his opi- 
nion, threatened by the residence of the suitor." The 
loving couple, however, disappeared in good season ; the 
young lady it is said, took her flight from the theatre with 
the same royal dress and tinsel crown she had on. 

As I have said nothing as to the " Court of Accounts," 
a few remarks shall be made in this place. Its object is 
to examine all accounts in which the public interests are 
concerned. Its decisions can only be amended by ano- 
ther Court, called " Sala de Ordenanza ,•" but as the 
Judges of the latter court, are also Judges in the former, 
appeals are generally useless, and enormities are suffered 
to pass unpunished. Those Judges have, besides, a share 
in the fines they impose, so that their aim is to condemn 
at random, whether there are reasons for it or not. When 
this condemnation is evidently unjust, and is afterwards 
repealed, the person appealing has in all cases to pay the 
costs of the appeal ; and in order to avoid this evil, the 
party generally comes to an understanding with the 
Judges. They give him notice, that a decision against 
him is going to be issued, and he then pays them a bribe, 
which is a little more than the part of the fine that they 
would otherwise receive, provided the amount, as is fre- 
quently the case, is not much above the probable expen- 
ses of the appeal. 

A Judge of that court, named Don Ramon Gonzalez, 
committed so many, and so flagrant abuses, that his name 
has become famous throughout the land. In a short time 
he amassed a capital of over one hundred thousand dol- 



318 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

lars, which he intended to invest in Spain in purchasing 
a highly profitable office. Several persons who saw him, 
while at Madrid, say that he used to go every morning to 
inquire of the door-keeper of the Duke of Rianzares, the 
husband of the Queen Dowager, after the health of their 
Majesties, thus making the Duke another Majesty. 

Marquis Montufar, was his fellow-judge in the afore- 
said court; he was bound to share the spoils with Gron- 
zalez. The latter, therefore, used to place before the 
Marquis the decrees to be signed, and by the side of them 
a heap of doubloons, without saying anything further on 
the transaction. " What does this mean V inquired Mon- 
tufar. " Be silent, sign the paper, and put the doubloons 
into your pocket," replied the scoundrel. 

The managers of the government incomes also derive 
immense profits from this bribery system. One of the 
offices affording the most lucrative perquisites to the ad- 
ministrator of the Land Revenues, is that of declaring whe- 
ther alcabala is to be collected on certain contracts or not: 
that is, whether a duty of six per cent, is to be exacted 
on their amount or not. The party who has to pay the 
duty, makes him a present of one-third or one-fourth of 
its amount; and a decree is issued, declaring that the 
contract is not dutiable. The administrator of the Sea 
Revenues, on the other hand, is commonly the person 
who most encourages smuggling. The invoices of load- 
ed ships are considerably reduced by, and with his con- 
sent for the consideration of a certain sum paid to him by 
the consignees. Of course every dollar thus acquired pro- 
duces a loss to the Exchequer, of ten or fifteen. In many 
mercantile houses, and more especially in those of the 
highest standing and respectability, a clerk is kept, who 
being thoroughly acquainted with these transactions, ma- 
nages this branch of the business, and makes the entries 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 319 

in such a manner that nothing can be discovered. Mer- 
chants allow him a share in the enormous profits derived 
from these transactions. 

The officers of the government, as I have already said, 
take as much advantage as they possibly can of all busi- 
ness entrusted to them ; and the sale of lottery tickets 
has not proved an exception to this rule. The law pro- 
vides, that the tickets be distributed among several per- 
sons (suhcolectores), to sell them at par, and that a com- 
mission of two per cent., shall be allowed to them ; but 
the subcolectores very seldom obtain tickets without pay- 
ing a premium, and the people, therefore, can buy them 
at par only at a single place (La colecturia principal), 
and for a few days only, as they are very soon told that 
the tickets are all out. A premium of twenty-five cents 
was formerly paid for each ticket; which, according to 
the general rumor, was applied to the benefit of Pinillos' 
son, who at present is Count of Villanueva. The par 
value of the ticket was four dollars, but on account of this 
premium, no person could buy one for less than four and 
a half. At present, as the prizes have been doubled, the 
price of tickets has been raised in proportion. 

Spaniards, generally, indulge in the belief, or at least 
feign to do so, that Creoles are mulattoes, and allege with 
wonderful assurance, that by the mere fact of being born 
in Spain, every Peninsular is a white. In many cases, 
however, the evidence of the senses is opposed to this 
assertion, as the complexion of the greatest part of them 
is nearer that of negroes, than of white people; and there 
are besides, well grounded reasons for believing that much 
African blood flows in their veins, though there are many 
families that are evidently white, as is also the case in 
Cuba. 

One of the armies that invaded Spain in the eighth 



320 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

century, was formed of four thousand negroes from Ethio- 
pia, who never were known to have left the country. 
What must now be the number of the descendants of 
those negroes, after the lapse of eleven centuries ? In fact, 
by their features and by the quality of their hair, the ori- 
gin of many Spaniards can be confidently traced to the 
African race. Nevertheless, in some provinces of the 
Peninsula, they style themselves not only pure whites, but 
noblemen also ; and it is very difficult to meet with a Spa- 
niard who considers himself a commoner (plebeyoj. 

The judgment which a foreigner would form of the 
political regime of Cuba, by the printed laws and regula- 
tions on the matter, would be very erroneous, as the 
practice differs widely from the theory, or from what the 
laws command. Orders are sometimes enacted orally, 
and not published ; so that the well-known principle, 
that laws ought to be promulgated before they can be en- 
forced, is not observed in this unhappy Colony. Such is 
the absurdity of this system, that its existence is almost 
incredible ! Lastly, another fact will be adduced to 
prove how easily the government disregards all the rights 
of the people, and deprives them, whenever it choses, of 
even those privileges which an inveterate custom entitles 
them to receive. It is only one of the many feats of the 
spoiler O'Donnell. 

Before his administration, any person had the right on 
commencing a law-suit, to choose any Judge or Court he 
pleased, provided the other party did not belong to any 
of the privileged classes over whom certain courts only 
have jurisdiction. In suing a person, therefore, the court 
of the Captain General, or of any of the other five Al- 
caldes Mayores, could be applied to. In the former case, 
that personage would charge twenty-five cents for each 
signature affixed by him during the progress of the suit ; 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 321 

but in the latter, he would have nothing to do, nor any 
fee to collect. O'Donnell did not like to lose these silver 
pieces, and therefore gave an oral order to all Notaries 
Public not to allow any person to sue another without 
choosing him as Judge. In this manner he incurred no 
responsibility for his arbitrary assumption, as no order 
had been published, and the only manner of proving that 
he had really issued it, was by taking the affidavits of the 
Notaries ; but these Governors are perfectly satisfied that 
nobody will ever dare to testify the truth against the 
authorities ; especially as little attention is here paid to 
false swearing, nobody considering such an act as a real 
offence. 



LETTER L . 

Commencement of the Cuban Scenes — The ceremony of watching 
and carrying the Seal — The laws violated, at the moment of 
their birth — Incredible blunders — A crazy magistrate — The 
Judge Avis Pliamix. 

In writing these letters, dear Charles, I would like to 
make my description of Cuba not only very accurate, but 
also so vivid and lively that you may easily form as com- 
plete an idea of the country as a person living in it. But 
if this is difficult even for fine and excellent pencils, how 
can my rough and unpractised pen succeed? Neverthe- 
less, I will make all the efforts in my power to attain this 
end ; and nothing, in my opinion, can do more in the way 
of accomplishing it, than to relate to you, with the utmost 
accuracy, several scenes of real life which have been de- 
scribed to me by eye-witnesses, and which give a better 
idea of Cuban customs and institutions, than long disser- 
tations, to which, by-the-bye, I am very averse. After 
this brief preface, let us begin by relating an occurrence 
which took place about seventeen years ago. 

My friend Don Placido was the narrator, and also one 
of the performers. On the afternoon of the eighth day of 
April, 1839, he was sitting near his window, smoking a 
segar, and enjoying the pleasure of the fresh air, with his 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 323 

linen coat and slippers on, but without waistcoat or cra- 
vat. Another lawyer, a friend of his, who wass passing 
by, stopped at his window, and said : — 

" Placido, let us go and see the ceremony of the Seal." 
Both friends burst out into loud and contemptuous laugh- 
ter. " You are right," said our doctor, " this ludicrous 
farce is worth seeing .... But walk in, I must dress 
myself." 

A few minutes afterwards, both, were on their way to- 
wards St. Francis' Convent, conversing at great length 
on the impropriety of establishing a Superior Court in 
Havana. They concurred in the opinion, that it was 
going to produce more evils than the system previously 
followed in law-suits. In Puerto Principe, where it was 
formerly established, the Judges could live on a smaller 
income than in the capital, where they would probably 
like to make a great show. 

" Were honest and capable Judges appointed, some 
advantages might be derived," remarked the other law- 
yer, whom I will call Sanchez. 

"I believe," said my friend, "that when the good or 
evil that an Institution can do, is dependent on the perso- 
nal endowments of its members, the probabilities are, 
that it will be mischievous." 

" They have begun already to show what they will 
do," said the other. "Almost all of them have arrived 
in the city penniless, and have borrowed money to buy 
their household furniture, carriage, &c. The lenders in 
many cases, have been persons overloaded with law-suits, 
especially debtors, who are not willing to pay. These 
Judges must be very ungrateful if they fulfill their duties 
afterwards." 

" I know of two of them," said Don Placido, " who 
go every evening to play ombre with a man of a rather 



324 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

weak mind, who in less than a month has lost over a 
thousand dollars." 

M On the other hand," added Sanchez, " they affirm 
that the Regent knows little about the legal profession." 

" At least," remarked his friend, " I will bet anything, 

that he knows less than the Judges ; these less than the 

Attorney Generals ; and these less than the lawyers : and 

I dare to affirm it, because it ought to be just the reverse 

Spain is the country of wonders!" 

" And they cannot allege that we speak thus, because 
we are Creoles. In one of the works of the Spaniard 
Lafuente, it is said, that all the animals of the Nation 
assembled in Congress once to make appointments for 
several offices, and the results were as follow : — The 
hare, which is believed to be the most cowardly animal, 
was elected Minister of War; the tortoise, being the 
dullest aquatic, obtained the office of Minister of the Navy; 
and the ass, which is generally considered as the symbol 
of stupidity, was appointed Minister of Public Instruc- 
tion." 

The Doctor burst into a loud laugh, by which his 
friend feared that those who were around them would 
come to understand the subject of their conversation. 
They were already surrounded by people who proceeded 
towards the church, and entered through the main door 
of the building. 

" How is this V inquired Sanchez ; " the official adver- 
tisement in the newspapers says, that the Seal shall be 
placed in the vestry, and now we find it in the church." 

" Is it a matter of surprise to you ?" asked Don Pla- 
cido, in a very low tone of voice. "Among us, the first 
man to violate the law, is he who makes it. The regula- 
tions of the Court which is to be established now, provide 
that no person who has not been a practical lawyer for a 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 325 

period of ten years at least, can be appointed a Judge of 
it. Not one of them, however, complies with this requi- 
site, and it is not quite a year since some of them began 
the practice of the law." 

" It is not strange, that in a country where so little re- 
gard is paid to the laws, everything should be in so hope- 
less a state." 

" The worst of it is, that we never shall respect the 
laws, as our law -makers are unable to enact good ones, 
and nobody likes to submit to what is bad." 

Both friends then entered the building. The church 
was crowded, and the throng of newly arrived people 
passed through the left nave towards a communion altar, 
inside the railing of which one of the Judges was sitting. 
He was dressed entirely in black, and was fanning him- 
self with his handkerchief, on account of the intense heat 
which made him sweat profusely. By his side stood a 
small table covered with cloth, upon which a large 
cushion of crimson damask had been placed, with a small 
screw-press upon it. This was the Seal of the Audiencia 
which was being watched, and had to be carried the next 
day in regular procession. This was the cause of the 
crowded state of the church. 

Two women approached the railing, looking for some- 
thing to see, but only found the press on the cushion, and 
the broad face of the magistrate, who endeavored to as- 
sume an air of great solemnity. The whole was ludi- 
crous enough, but the circumstance of the Judge being 
moon-eyed, strongly excited the temptation to laugh. 

"Oh, pshaw !" said one of them ; "did we come here 
only to see this V 1 

" That has a very gallows-like appearance," remarked 
the other: "What a disappointment we have expe- 
rienced!" 



326 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

The Judge looked very angrily at them, but they 
laughed and retired. Don Placido and his friend then 
approached the altar without looking at the Judge, and 
the former with the aid of his spectacles cast a glance at 
the press, but seeing nothing in particular, proceeded. A 
man then came up to them, and inquired, pointing to the 
Magistrate : " Is that fellow going to stav there till to- 
morrow V " He ought to do so," answered Don Pla- 
cido, " but he will go quietly home in the evening, and 
afterwards represent things in quite a different light." 

" First fraud of the Audiencia !" said Sanchez, at which 
all those who stood around laughed. Soon after the two 
friends met several lawyers dressed in their long black 
robes ; they had solicited the privilege of keeping com- 
pany with the Judge in church. 

"What do you think of those poor wretches ?" inquir- 
ed Don Placido of his companion, with a contemptuous 
smile. 

" They begin to do honor to the profession by their 
meanness and abjectness." 

After walking for some distance they separated, and 
agreed to meet the next morning to see the procession. 

At nine o'clock of the following day, the Captain Ge- 
neral left his palace accompanied by a large crowd of 
tipstaffs, door-keepers, Judges, and several lawyers dress- 
ed in the same style with those seen the day before. 
Sanchez and his friend looked at them as they passed : 
the one examined their faces, and the other strove to ap- 
ply the scanty knowledge he possessed of the sciences of 
Lavater and Gall to ascertain their inclinations. 

" I have not perceived a single spark of intelligence 
in any of them, and their faces do not evince much hones- 
ty," remarked Sanchez. 

" What I have observed," said Placido, " is not the 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 327 

want of knowledge, but so extraordinary a development 
of certain organs, that I involuntarily took hold of my 
watch to secure it." 

At last the procession arrived at the Convent, and the 
Regent ordered one of the constables, who seemed to be 
the strongest of all, to take the machine and carry it away. 

The law provides, that a mule should be used on such 
occasions, and that the press be carried on the pack-sad- 
dle ; but the Audiencia, undoubtedly, has more power 
than the law, and this direction was totally disregarded. 
An open carriage, drawn by four teams of horses was 
procured, and " the gallows," as the woman styled it, 
was placed in it ; after which they proceeded very slowly 
through the streets. The residents, who at the sugges- 
tion of the authorities, had covered their windows with 
lively colored curtains, looked through them, but could not 
see anything worthy of so much parade. The amusement 
was occasionally enhanced by the spectacle of a police- 
man running after a negro and beating him, or of a sol- 
dier, who by way of fun, freely distributed blows to 
those around him. 

Finally, the whole company reached the palace, where 
the Halls of Justice were located, in the best spirits. One 
of the Judges, however, whom I will call S * *, had 
been obliged to pass through a pool, and had soiled his 
feet above the ankles. Being a person of a very irrita- 
ble temper, he kept cursing all the time, and those who 
happened to go near him, knowing that, he had been en- 
tirely crazy twice before, feared that another attack of 
lunacy would come on, and that he would knock them 
down or use some other violence. 

It would seem very strange, and many will perhaps 
consider it a joke of mine, that the government should 
have appointed a crazy person a Judge of the Superior 



LETTERS FROM CUBA- 

Court, but I have been assured that such was the case, 
and no person from whom I have inquired, has denied 
the assertion. 

I have been assured also, that he was the Phoenix of 
Spanish Judicature ; and I will endeavor to examine this 
point, firstly, because, while I am unwilling to give cur- 
rency to undeserved praises, I wish to lose no opportu- 
nity of paying honor to the truth : and secondly, because 
a notability so much praised, should be carefully observ- 
ed and studied, as by knowing his degree of excellence, 
we can easily determine the real worth of his companions, 
who are acknowledged by everybody to be inferior to 
him. 

People generally believed that he was honest, and that 
he never accepted bribes. He was not just, however ; 
that is, he did not act on the praiseworthy determination 
to give to every man what rightfully belonged to him. 
On the contrary, he was a despot in the Court, and was 
very envious. The latter fault is scarcely noticed in 
Spain on account of its prevalence. 

A lawyer once sued one of his clients before S * * *, 
in order to compel him to pay five hundred dollars, the 
amount of fees due to him. S * * * undoubtedly feared, 
that the lawyer, even if he had only a few clients of that 
description, would make in a year more than the amount 
of salary he himself received. 

"Five hundred dollars ! ! !" exclaimed S * * *, evinc- 
ing great surpris^. " What have you to say on the mat- 
ter V* inquired he from defendant. Fortunately for the 
lawyer, his client did not wish to take advantage of the 
disposition of the Judge in his favor. Had he done 60, 
the probabilities are, that the amount of the fees would 
have been reduced to one-half or less. But the debtor 
acknowledged the justice of the debt, and only remark- 



LETTERS PROM CUBA. 329 

ed, that he had not paid before for want of money ; where- 
upon S * # * ordered him, without consulting the other 
party, to pay the sum in six months, and the lawyer was 
commanded to pay the costs ! 

Another fact will afford more information on Cuban 
affairs than many pages. It not only presents S * * * in a 
different light, but will also acquaint us with many other 
interesting topics. An example given in a few words, 
sometimes saves long and tedious explanations. 

S * * * one day saw in the newspapers a decree which 
he had signed without reading it, and complaining to the 
clerk who had drawn it up, for having used an improper 
word, said : " One of these days you will make me sign 
a decree ordering myself to be hung." The other ought 
to have replied : " It was your duty to draw it up your- 
self, as you are paid for so doing, but if through laziness 
you have not been willing even to read it, nobody but 
yourself is to blame." Nevertheless, the clerk thus un- 
justly reproached, did not answer, as it is a well known 
feature in the Spanish system of government, that no offi- 
cer ever transacts the business entrusted to him, but a 
third party is always resorted to, who saves them the 
trouble and labor. 

Being once in the chair as Rector or President of the 
University, S * * * inquired, what were the regulations 
of the Institution bearing upon the case that was under 
discussion, adding, that he had not read them. The chief 
business that the Hector has to perform, is to carry out 
and enforce these regulations ; and some idea may be 
formed of how satisfactorily he could fulfill the duties of 
his office, without knowing what they were. This is a 
short and accurate sketch of a magistrate who is consi- 
dered the ne plus ultra. What must be the character 
and qualifications of others 1 
14* 



330 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

But I perceive that my description of the ceremony of 
the Seal, is not yet finished. The whole procession went 
into the Hall, where the " gallows" were deposited, and 
thence they proceeded to the Cathedral, where a solemn 
Te Dcum was celebrated. 

Don Placido and his friend did not follow them, but 
before separating, the latter inquired : 

" What did you like best of the whole affair VI 

" The gracefulness of the Regent in thrusting in his 
gown under his left arm. In this he will not suffer by 
a comparison with the most gallant bullfighter." 



LETTER LI. 

A scene in the Halls of Injustice — Polite manner of the Judges — 
Wonderful syntax — The lawyer vexed — Motives for the deed 
— The one-eyed Oidor. 

Having spoken in my former letters of the Court nam- 
ed the Audiencia of Havana, I will begin this by relating 
an occurrence which I witnessed in the same tribunal, 
though the order of events may not be strictly adher- 
ed to. 

Don Placido and myself once entered the palace of the 
Audiencia, a large building located fronting the city walls. 
We passed by a guard of eight or ten soldiers who were 
stationed at the door, and ascended two flights of lofty 
stone stairs. On entering the Halls of Justice, (my friend 
remarked that they ought to be called Halls of Injustice): 
a man accoutred with a sword, and dressed very much 
like the constable in the bull-fight which has been already 
described, told me to leave my walking cane at the door. 
Shortly afterwards, another similar personage ordered 
me, in an angry tone, not to put my hands on the railing, 
and not to approach too near to it. 

My friend looked at me and smiled. I cast my eyes 
around to see if a bench could be found, but there was 
not any : it would be a great disrespect to sit down be- 
fore the Court. There were three judges dressed in the 
same style with the constables, with only this difference, 
that instead of three cornered hats, they had bonnets on 



332 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

their heads. The reporter (relator) was seated facing 
them at a very low table covered with manuscripts, and 
on both sides of him, but on a higher platform, two 
benches were placed. On one of them a man, dressed 
also with long black robes, was sitting with his head un- 
covered. He was a lawyer. While the reporter was 
reading, the judges spoke to each other once in a while. 
A few moments afterwards one of them nodded and fell 



Another lawyer then entered within the railing, saluted 
the judges most respectfully, and sat down fronting the 
other. The grave Magistrates did not make the slightest 
movement. If a dog had made his appearance, some 
slight gesture would have been perceived. 

" It seems that there are some impolite people besides 
the Yankees," remarked I to my friend, in a low tone of 
voice. 

" They would not be perfect oidores without being 
very uncivil. But I believe that we are going to see 
curious things here to-day, as the Regent hates that law- 
yer, because he did not go to visit him on his arrival 
from Spain. As he has come rather late, the reporter is 
reading what he should have said." 

At this moment the lawyer rose from his seat, and 
said : — 

"May it please the Court-I beg your Highness to allow 
me to make the defence orally, instead of by the reading 
of my written report, as is being done." 

The Regent, without consulting his fellow-judges, said 
angrily : 

11 By no means : the lawyer has not fulfilled his duty 
in coming late." 

The Counsellor did not answer, and the reading conti- 
nued. 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 333 

" Now he has revenged himself already," said Don 
Placido. 

" I perceive that he did not use the word you in speak- 
ing to him, but employed the third person singular," re- 
marked I. 

" Such is always the course pursued by Regents, in 
order to speak to Counsellors in the most contemptuous 
language." 

" But, has he not done right in reprimanding the law- 
yer ?" 

" Not at all ; because Counsellors are not bound to 
appear before the Audiencia and make oral defences in 
civil cases, as this is, but only in grave criminal prose- 
cutions. But even if the lawyer had been guilty of that 
offence, he ought not to have been censured in public, as 
the law forbids it. Let us go out ; I do not want to see 
these scoundrels any longer." 

As soon as he had spoken this last word, he turned his 
face, and left the room. I followed him, and when we 
were in the lobby, he again exclaimed : — 

" Scoundrel ! In what barn-yard has he been brought 
up ?" 

" What is the matter 1" inquired an attorney, a friend 
of Don Placido. 

The latter then related to him what had happened. 

" I know the cause of this," said the attorney. " That 
lawyer has just published a pamphlet on the system of 
prosecuting law-suits in civil cases ; the Censor heed- 
lessly granted the permit for printing it, and one of the 
regulations enacted by the Audiencia is censured by him, 
though in a very considerate manner." 

" That is not all," added another attorney, who had 
arrived in the mean time. " The Regent has promised 
the party of the vexed lawyer a favorable decision, and 



334 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

he has therefore regretted his being late, as his fellow- 
judges cannot be so easily beguiled." 

" The lawyer on the other hand," said the other attor- 
ney, "has not, in fact, been late ; but the judges have 
commenced the session earlier than is customary." 

" And what steps will that poor counsellor take to 
gain redress for having been so unjustly reprimanded V f 
asked I. 

" To suffer silently," was the general answer. 

" Nothing would tempt me to be a lawyer in Cuba," 
I replied. 

" Oh !" exclaimed Don Placido, " If the rights of the 
people were respected, and the laws complied with, that 
lawyer might have answered in a suitable manner ; but 
here . . . . 1 He would have been fined $500. . . . Let 
us go Curses on this building." 

My friend then rushed to the stairs, and I followed him. 
When about half way down, we met another lawyer, who 
was coming up, laughing aloud. He said that Judge 
P * * was in the vestibule greatly enraged, because on 
entering the palace, a young man who was standing at the 
door, had not taken his hat off; that the Judge had beaten 
him with his cane, and then ordered him to be taken to jail. 

At this moment we saw P * # coming up ; and in or- 
der to avoid saluting him, we receded and went out of 
his way. His ugly face will not be easily forgotten by 
those who have seen it ; stupidity was at once visible in 
his eyes, besides which, one of them was imperfect. 

When we reached the street, we perceived at a dis- 
tance a policeman conveying to Tacon's jail the perpetra- 
tor of the horrid crime of not having saluted the one-eyed 
judge. I could not forbear remarking — 

" You were right in saying, that this was the Hall of 
Injustice! Whatman having the least self-respect can 
live in this country V* 



LETTER LII. 

Milk-Punch battle — Preliminaries of the war — Marti's conflict 
with Escauriza — Scene in the Palace — Appearance of the 
invading army — Frightful attack — Exploits of O'Donnell and 
his troops — An African heroine. 

Nothing lias ever been a source of more delight and 
amusement to me than the description given some days 
ago by the Filibuster of the widely known and famous 
battle of Milk Punch, won by General O'Donnell shortly 
after his arrival. 

Some masquerade balls were being celebrated at the 
time in Escauriza's saloon, and also at Tacon's theatre, 
located in close proximity. Marti, the proprietor of the 
latter place, perceived that through the competition he 
was losing a share of the public patronage, and devised 
means to put down his rival. 

Marti and O'Donnell's wife, being both Catalonians, 
no great exertion was needed to form an acquaintance ; 
and the friendship and patronage of the General and his 
wife were very soon gained by means of suitable pre- 
sents. A gift was always welcomed by those personages, 
and consequently they felt the warmest sympathy to- 
wards their countryman. Marti, being aware of this, 
related his troubles to O'Donnell, who, as was natural, 



336 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

endeavored to apply a remedy, and, all the more, when 
his lady whispered the following words : — 

" If he has made these valuable presents without any 
occasion, how large will they be if we afford him a large 
profit?" 

O'Donnell therefore promised Marti, upon his word, 
that he would order Escauriza's saloon to be closed, and 
the owner of the theatre then left, highly delighted. 

The three-tailed Bashaw, however, did not take every 
thing into consideration when making his promise. He 
did not recollect that Escauriza had obtained a license, 
for which he paid a considerable number of doubloons. 
His secretary undoubtedly had not yet given them to him, 
as otherwise it was not possible he could have forgotten 
so happy an event. 

" What shall we do, Manuela?" inquired O'Donnell of 
his wife, before his confidant Paniagua, who had remind- 
ed him of the circumstance of the license. 

" It can be done very easily," remarked Paniagua, 
who was already acquainted with what was passing. 

" What shall we do ?" inquired both consorts at the 
same time. 

" The license does not fix the hour at which the ball 
shall end ; and you have only to order Escauriza to close 
at ten o'clock, and allow Marti to continue all night." 

" There is one objection to this," remarked O'Donnell, 
" and that is, that Escauriza must have understood that 
the license was for keeping the place open all night, as 
otherwise he would not have wanted it." 

" That is true," replied the other; " but the license 
does not specify it." 

" And we have already made a solemn promise," 
added Manuela. 

" Draw up the order," replied the gallant General, in 
a resolute tone, addressing himself to Paniagua. 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 337 

By twilight, on that day, a dense crowd filled up the 
saloons of Escauriza's coffee-house, and the square front- 
ing it, as well as the streets on the sides, were for some 
time covered with human beings. Numberless stands, 
provided with torch-lights, and covered with candies and 
hazel-nuts, were seen scattered around the place; but 
still more numerous were those kept by negresses, who, 
provided with large earthen pans over a charcoal fire, 
and a small table full of glasses, were selling hot milk 
jpunch, after which the memorable battle that soon ensued, 
was named. 

When the masqueraders in the saloons had been enjoy- 
ing for a short time the pleasures o£ the dance, a great 
noise was heard at the bar. The Deputy of the Chief of 
Police for that ward, {comisario de barrio,) had just given 
Escauriza the unexpected notice that he must close his 
doors, and put an end to the amusement. " The license 
to have my saloons open has cost me money ! This is a 
swindle !" cried Escauriza in a state of madness; but on 
learning that his rival Marti had not been ordered to do 
the same, his indignation and rage rose to the highest 
pitch. 

It was now ten o'clock, precisely the time that the 
largest number of people were making their way into the 
building. Each of them, on entering, left one dollar in 
the silver waiter placed near the door, and Escauriza 
wanted to enjoy still longer the music produced by the 
striking of the coins against each other. Those who had 
already paid did not wish to leave, and their arguments 
were founded on the best reasons. The Deputy Police- 
man, backed by two soldiers, again ordered the proprie- 
tor to comply with the General's commands ; but Escau- 
riza answered angrily : " I will not doit." The Deputy 
thought this reply was meant as a joke, and addressing 
15 



338 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

himself to those present, said : — " Gentlemen, let us go 
out. The Government bids you do so." 

But then a dreadful shout was heard from the crowd, 
as from one man: — " Death to the bailiff! Traitor! 
Give me back my money !" At this time two or three 
tumblers were seen flying from the bar, and breaking to 
pieces on the Deputy's body, who then left in great haste, 
and with as much speed as his limbs would allow. 

Nobody knew or suspected that he had gone to give 
notice to the Captain-General of what had taken place, 
and the amusement continued as lively as ever. The 
news of the flight of the Deputy Policeman, who, it was 
said, was wounded, and bleeding, rapidly spread through- 
out the ward, and an immense multitude of idle people, 
and others who were anxious to see what was going on, 
were soon on the spot. The rattling of the coins in the 
plate was still uninterrupted, and Marti, who witnessed 
this, for him, heart-rending spectacle, became so excited, 
that he was on the eve of fighting Escauriza. 

Such was the state of things late in the evening, when a 
great noise was heard of cavalry running through the city 
gate called Monserrate; the drum of the guard stationed 
in it was beaten, and the courageous O'Donnell made his 
appearance in a hackney-carriage surrounded by lances 
and soldiers. He halted when about two hundred feet 
from the doors of the saloon, and did not alight from the 
volante for a short while. The cause of this stoppage was 
afterwards learned to have been " prudence." Though the 
populace was unarmed, it was at least "a populace," and 
prudent O'Donnell waited for the arrival of the infantry, 
which, on leaving his palace, he ordered to proceed to 
the spot with all possible despatch, from the barracks 
named " La Fuerza." 

As soon as the largest corps of the army arrived, the 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 339 

courageous General rushed like a lion towards the coffee- 
house ; he unsheathed his sword, and had the pleasure of 
seeing all the crowd in great haste leaving the saloons 
through the side doors. He alone took possession of 
that castle, though its garrison consisted of over two 
thousand men and women ! He only made, however, one 
single prisoner ; a poor old man who, despite his exer- 
tions, could not run. O'Donnell administered to him a 
•couple of blows with the flat of his sword ; and then 
sheathed his weapon and pushed him out of the building. 

Being now master of the deserted coffee-house, he 
thoroughly overhauled the saloons, without success, in 
search of Escauriza, who had probably concealed himself 
somewhere under the counter. His anger was then di- 
rected against those who were standing outside; wherever 
a knot of persons was seen, he went to them, and dis- 
persed the circle with blows of his fist, accompanied by 
high words and blasphemies. O'Donnell looked like one 
of those heroes of Ariosto, who, with severe blows, put 
to flight powerful armies. " Just like those,*' remarked 
Joseito, " have been probably the great feats performed 
by Cortes and Pizarro on the poor harmless Indians of 
America." 

The soldiers, meantime, did not wish to remain simple 
spectators of the wonderful exploits accomplished by their 
General. They, therefore, attacked at the point of the 
bayonet, the people near by, and men, women, and chil- 
dren were seen rushing with all possible speed in all 
directions. Their great swiftness prevented the loss of a 
great number of lives ; but some were so closely pursued, 
that they threw themselves headlong into the ditches. 

One of the soldiers, finding himself disappointed in the 
gratification of his murderous inclinations, began to amuse 
himself by breaking the tumblers that were on the small 



340 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

tables. One of the negro women, on seeing her stand so 
wantonly attacked, made up her mind to defend it. On 
looking around, she found no better weapon than the pan- 
full of punch that was boiling near her, and taking hold of 
it with both hands, she threw it in the face of our hero. 

The intense pain produced by the hot liquid, extorted 
a horrible scream from the soldier, and his eyes were so 
severely injured, that he lost his sight forever. It is fair 
to presume that to make amends for this mishap, he was 
afterwards favored with the cross of Isabel la Catolica. 

O'Donnell heard this doleful scream, and fearing that 
it was an alarm, he ordered his troops to attack the fugi- 
tive crowd on all sides. All the stands were then thrown 
down, the awnings cut to pieces, and the pans broken into 
minute particles, were spread together with thdr contents 
on the ground. In a few moments all the enemies had 
disappeared, and the field of battle was left in possession 
of the renowned Minister of War of the illustrious Spa- 
nish nation. 

Marti then went to him, and said : — 

" My General, I am exceedingly obliged to you, but 
your Excellency has driven away all the people ■!" 

O'Donnell, with an expressive smile, answered:— 

" Advertise another ball for to-morrow, and you want 
to make a great deal of money." 

Joseito here put an end to his narrative with this witty 
remark : — 

" The next morning the battle-field was soaked with 
milk, and the ground covered with candy balls /" 



LETTER L III. 

The Departures — Don Joaquin Gomez again — Rumors as to the 
behavior of Tacon — His feai's — His hasty departure, or 
rather his flight — Probable effects of a shot — Conspiracy of 
the Catalonians — Plots of the Creoles — Their extreme thank- 
fulnes — Last act of Roncali — First enormity of Concha. 

The unhappy Cubans have become accustomed to kiss 
the hand by which they are flogged, in gratitude for not 
receiving quite as many lashes as their masters might 
have administered to them. If this and other truths, 
uttered in the course of my letters, are considered by 
them bitter, the blame devolves entirely upon themselves, 
as in publishing them, I am prompted by the desire of 
doing all in my power to promote such a reform in their 
proceedings as my sympathy for them makes me wish. 
Should this desirable improvement take place, I would 
hasten with pleasure to gainsay my assertions. 

At seven o'clock in the forenoon of the 22d day of 
April 1838, a dense crowd was seen around the palace of 
the Captain-G-eneral. Creoles, Catalonians, Negroes, Mili- 
tary men in full costume, &c , were standing in large 
circles. The portico of the palace, where the Intendente 
now resides, was full of people, curious to witness the 
departure of General Tacon, who had just delivered all 



342 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

his powers into the hands of his successor. The Creoles 
were highly delighted, and the Spaniards very gloomy • 
the former went to enjoy themselves, and the latter to 
mourn over the event. 

Every thing was ready, but Tacon was not to be seen. 
He looked through the blinds, and on perceiving many 
Creole faces among the crowd, a just suspicion took pos- 
session of his mind. " He who is guilty dreads punish- 
ment," says the proverb. The despot had inflicted many 
wrongs, and his conscience showed him what he deserved. 

Don Joaquin Gomez, of whom I have before spoken, 
then made his appearance. He had an enormously large 
bundle of newspapers under his arm, and walked towards 
the doors of the palace. He was very much fretted, and 
could hardly breathe, as he had not been willing to pay 
twenty cents for carriage-hire, nor even sixpence for having 
the bundle carried by a negro. In Havana, therefore, 
where it is almost a dishonor to carry the smallest parcel 
along the streets, a man with two millions capital was 
seen panting along for a considerable distance with a load 
that he could hardly lift. On entering the portico, he saw 
the people looking at him with astonishment, and he seem- 
ed to imagine that they were censuring his stinginess, or 
that they had perceived that by this last act of flattery 
he was aiming to secure the "Great Cross of Isabel la 
Catolica," which the Ex-Bashaw had promised to present 
to him. He felt somewhat abashed, and did not raise bis 
eyes from the ground. 

A long while elapsed since the entrance of Gomez into 
the palace, but Tacon was not seen taking his departure. 
Everybody then began to assign causes for the delay. 
The Ex-Governor, despising the command of the Queen, 
resigned his powers two days after the order for his re- 
moval was communicated to him. He should have done 



LETTERS FROM CUBA- 343 

it immediately, and his delay received a two-fold expla- 
nation. Some said, that fearing a beating on the part of 
the Creoles, he did not wish to be deprived of his power 
until the last moment; others asserted that the Catalonians 
had advised him not to comply with the requirements of 
the supreme government, but to remain at his post. For 
two days, he seemed to have been fluctuating as to what 
course he should follow. 

Time passed on, and still he did not appear; and now 
other rumors were afloat. Some said that a conspiracy 
had just been discovered to murder him while on his way 
to the vessel, and others affirmed that a deputation of 
merchants engaged in the slave trade, was urging him to 
accept the propositions of the Catalonians. The former 
assertion, it seems, rested on better foundation than the 
latter ; for when it was least expected, the guard was 
seen running to arms, to perform the customary salute. 
Two armed Aides-de-camp went out of the palace, and 
immediately behind them Tacon and his successor Ezpe- 
leta followed. It was observed that the Ex-Governor was 
on the right side, a place which ought to have been occu- 
pied by the person then having the command. 

He must be excused, however, for he was highly ex- 
cited, and came out almost running. Instead of proceed- 
ing by the proper route, he passed through the gardens 
of the " Plaza de Armas" so swiftly, that General Ez- 
peleta, and the crowd of armed officers by whom he was 
surrounded, were scarcely able to follow him. It would 
have been an impossible task for a murderer to approach 
him ; but Tacon, who considered himself out of the reach 
of a dagger, did not feel quite so secure against the effects 
of a ball. He was evidently somewhat beside himself, 
and no other cause than his fears could be assigned to the 
occurrence. 



344 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

Meanwhile, not the least noise was perceived. Not a 
single shout of love or hatred was heard ; every body 
seemed to contemplate with amazement that strange de- 
parture, and did not wish even to speak, waiting, perhaps, 
for the moment in which the report of a fire-arm should 
be heard. After he arrived on board the vessel, he was 
greeted by a part of the crowd on the wharf, but he did 
not come out to acknowledge the compliment, not wishing, 
probably, to serve as a target. 

What would the fate of Cuba have been if on the 
departure of her tyrant, a ball, shot by a courageous 
patriot, had pierced his heart 1 ? Such an eloquent pro- 
test would have modified the proceedings of later go- 
vernors ; but the incredible fact that Tacon was allowed 
to go unpunished, encouraged O'Donnell, Canedo, and 
Concha, to carry out their blood-thirsty and unfeeling plans. 
The ordeals to which Cuba has since then been subject- 
ed, have been produced only by the want of a Codes, 
who would volunteer himself as a victim on the occasion. 

But Tacon's departure was not the occurrence which 
suggested to me the assertion uttered at the beginning of 
this letter. I then referred to the embarcation of Roncali, 
which took place many years afterwards. The Spaniards 
extolled the former for the evils he had inflicted on the 
Creoles, and these tendered to the latter an affectionate 
farewell, not on account of any good which they had re- 
ceived from him, but because Roncali had not afflicted or 
oppressed them as much as he could have done. 

I have already remarked that he did not pay any atten- 
tion to informers, as he did not consider it worth while to 
notice the exertions of a few young men who, in their de- 
spair, endeavored to change the political regime of their 
country. Roncali knew that those generous ideas met 
with few sympathizers ; that the people formed a dull 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 345 

and sluggish mass, which did not feel the injuries inflicted ; 
and that those who might have aroused them were sunk 
in the mire of degradation and abjectness. Persecutions, 
therefore, would have been hurtful to the Spanish cause, 
as they would have furnished weapons to its enemies. 

The stupid Catalonians, however, did not understand 
the wisdom of this policy ; they wanted to have torrents 
of blood shed by the executioner, and were anxious to 
have the pleasure of hearing the lamentations of the chil- 
dren, widows, and mothers, of the victims. But on see- 
ing that the policy of Roncali was not in accordance with 
their infamous wishes, they began to speak of having 
General Armero, then commander of the naval station, as 
Governor, well aware that he would fully carry out their 
blood-thirsty inclinations. 

A conspiracy was therefore set on foot to remove Ron- 
cali ; and the fact becoming known among the Creoles, a 
few young men resolved to sustain the General in his 
post. A good opportunity presented itself to revenge old 
grudges, wanton insults, undeserved iniquities, and wick- 
ed procedures. Many armed themselves even with knives, 
and the Peninsular hardware dealers, on seeing the un- 
precedented demand for the article, became alarmed, and 
refused to sell them to Creoles. They also stopped the 
sale of gun -powder, balls and fire-arms, unless the pur- 
chaser was well known as belonging to their party. 

It has been said since the event, that the Creoles had 
in view the overthrow of the Spanish Government ; and 
though this is not wholly impossible, I believe that such 
was not the case, and that their only aim was to oppose 
themselves to the removal of the General, as the plans 
were not adopted for any other purpose. The motive of 
these proceedings was, indeed, very humble : only an ex- 
cessive gratitude. The Creoles prepared themselves to 



346 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

pay at a great sacrifice for what was only a duty ; but 
the unfortunate Cubans are so accustomed to tyranny and 
oppression that they consider themselves deprived of all 
rights, while their governors are reputed as having no 
duties to fulfil. 

A mean spirited person informed Roncali of the plans 
of the Catalonians. He summoned the chiefs, and inform- 
ed them that their heads were responsible for the continu- 
ance of public peace. They became frightened, and went 
in great hasle to dissolve the Clubs over which they re- 
spectively presided. Many Creoles were also afraid, and 
left the city : some of those who were preparing to de- 
fend the General, were imprisoned for a short time ; but 
his future persecutors received only, as a penalty, that 
timely warning. Thus, Spaniards in Cuba arc considered 
by the Government as superior to Creoles in some re- 
spects ; and such must be the case, as the latter submit 
themselves to their rule, like a lion which has been tamed, 
without thinking that a slight effort would suffice to an- 
nihilate its master. But in spite of that wrongful beha- 
vior, the attachment of Creoles to Roncali did not lessen. 
On learning the news of his removal, a sentimental ad- 
dress was drawn up and signed by numberless persons. 
Arrangements were also made to tender him a splendid 
farewell. 

The attendance on this occasion was unparalleled ; the 
enthusiam of the youth beyond bounds, and the boister- 
ous huzzas formed a remarkable contrast with the silent 
departure of Tacon. But the Creoles, who were the pro- 
moters of these demonstrations, thought that they were 
committing a crime, as the feelings of the Spaniards were 
thereby hurt, and as a proof, I will only adduce the fact 
that the young man who took charge of putting the ad- 
dress into Roncali's hands, refused afterwards to do it, 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 347 

and another was then appointed. When it was seen that 
Concha pursued the system of terror, and did not approve 
of the mildness of his predecessor, the greater part of the 
persons who signed the address regretted having clone it. 

Roncali, instead of following the example of Tacon, 
placed himself in the most conspicuous place on deck, 
where he stood receiving the greetings and huzzas of the 
immense crowd until the vessel was out of the reach of the 
voice. They assure us that his emotion was great, and 
some go so far as to affirm that tears were seen flowing 
from his eyes. If such was the case, I would remark, 
that his remorse was more bitter than that of his succes- 
sors or predecessors ; and I say more bitter, because no 
one of them all can have been free from it. To act as the 
instrument of injustice and oppression, and as the pro- 
moter of the unhappiness of a whole people, is a crime 
common to all Captain-Generals of Cuba; a crime which 
can only be forgiven by the Divint Mercy, because it is 
unbounded. 

But after relating that the last act of Roncali was to 
weep tears of repentance, it is proper to give an account 
of the first enormity of his successor Concha. He thought 
it best to give notice that he should exercise an unlimited 
despotism, and in order to do it in rather a covert though 
unquestionable manner, he found no better device than to 
summon the Editors of the Havana papers, and order them 
orally to write an article on Roncali's departure, giving 
a mere notice that the event had taken place, without any 
further comment whatever, and taking only a few lines. 

Until this time the censorship of the press had been 
limited, as I before remarked, to the blotting out of whole 
phrases, and to prohibiting the publication of entire arti- 
cles; but it did not prescribe the subjects of the editorials, 
nor the manner in which they should be treated. But 



348 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

now the Editors have to publish the articles which are 
sent to them from the office of the Captain-General, as if 
written by themselves, and this is the only explanation 
that can be given of the fact that the " Diario de la Ma- 
rina" published on the day after the arrival of Pezuela 
that base and flattering biography, in which facts are re- 
vealed that the General alone could have disclosed. 



LETTER LI V. 

First expedition of Narciso Lopez — Rumors — Surprise — Falgue- 
ras' Telescope — Disquisition — Casaseca — Ceruti vanquish- 
ed by a match — Exploits of the renowned Carrasco — His 
Mausoleum in a filthy place — Reembarcation of Lopez — The 
Cholera. 



The 19th day of May is a remarkable anniversary for 
Cuba, but more especially for the Spanish Government, 
which knows the great importance of the epoch which 
it commemorates. 

The cholera had made its appearance in the capital of 
the Island, and in the course of a few months it had ma- 
nifested as great, if not greater, virulence than in 1833, 
when its ravages were of the most sad and terrific descrip- 
tion. Consternation and terror had taken possession of the 
minds of the people. The general conversation dwelt 
upon the disease, and politicians had their attention entirely 
turned to the horrid calamity. Planters feared for their 
own safety, and trembled at the thought of the appear- 
ance of the epidemic among their slaves : merchants engag- 
ed in the slave trade were apprehensive that their cargoes 
of hales would be attacked before the sale was effected, 
but did not care if it happened after the accomplishment 
of the bargain. There was hardly a house without one 



350 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

or more sick persons, and the relatives feared that any 
slight illness, from whatever cause it might have arisen, 
would promote the attack of the cholera. Physicians, on 
the other hand, armed with the hard-heartedness, so com- 
monly found among them, were highly gratified ; they 
had not time enough to attend to all the persons wishing 
their services, and rushed from house to house in search 
of the fees of the afflicted, the fearful, and the credulous. 

Such was the state of things on the 19th day of May, 
1850, when late in the evening an alarm was spread 
throughout the city. Strange, exaggerated, and contra- 
dictory rumors were afloat, and nobody could learn, even 
approximately, what was really passing; but all agreed 
in one point, which, though new and surprising, was ge- 
nerally believed, viz. : that Narciso Lopez had landed in 
the island at the head of armed men. 

Many, notwithstanding the lateness of the hour, went 
to see their friends. The visitor entered his friend's house 
under great excitement, and the occupant showed none 
the less in receiving him. " What is the matter ?" in- 
quired they from each other. " I have been told that Nar- 
ciso has landed in Cardenas ; that the soldiers and the 
whole people have joined him, and that they have started 
in the cars, and intend to take Matanzas by surprise." 
" I have been assured," replied the other, " that Matan- 
zas has already been taken ; that half the garrison joined 
him, and that the other half has surrendered. The Go- 
vernor, they say, has made his escape in a boat." 

These words were pronounced in a low tone of voice ; 
at this time another friend, unknown to the former, made 
his appearance, and they began to speak on things en- 
tirely unconnected with the object of their call. Both 
visitors looked distrustfully upon each other, until the 
owner of the house, unwilling to remain longer silent, 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 351 

and being anxious to ascertain what the other knew about 
the matter, remarked in a very faint tone : " We are all 
trustworthy .... "What have you heard ¥' The latter 
visitor represented the occurrence in a somewhat new 
light, and added that news had just arrived of a general 
rising at Pinar del Rio. "Good ! that is good!" ex- 
claimed the other two : " revolution on both sides, east 
and west." " Why have not the people of Guanajay risen 
already V* What are they doing at Guanabacoa V 1 " They 
are good for nothing fellows." They accused others of 
being dull and timid, while they were only waiting for 
what others would do, and talking on the subject. 

At other houses the following inquiries were mutually 
made : " What will Narciso's plans be V " Will he arm 
our negroes V " Why has he not given us notice V 
" What can he do with 500 men ?" " He is a crazy man," 
answered another. " No one will join him, even if he take 
Matanzas." " As for myself, he may be sure I would not 
join him before he has won." 

This was the topic of conversation in all the houses of 
every village and town throughout the island, excepting 
Cardenas, where the inhabitants fled, and left Lopez and 
his small army alone to gid rid of the Spanish troops who 
were sent against them. 

Fortunately for the invaders, the enemy was not very 
anxious to fight, and the chiefs were devising means to 
delay their encounter as much as possible, while the sol- 
diers, delighted as they were with such a course, thought 
that the pretexts of the chiefs were real and powerful mo- 
tives, because they prevented their marching at once. 
Falgueras, then Governor of Matanzas, did not w r ish to 
leave the city without a garrison, as he feared that as soon 
as this should happen the people would revolt, and he 
was also afraid to meet Lopez in the plain. Falgueras" 



352 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

being a Spaniard, participated in the faults of his coun- 
trymen, who when unable to avoid a battle, endeavor at 
least to hide themselves behind a wall. 

He finally started some hours after all was ready, but 
not wishing to go farther than the Coliseo, he halted, say- 
ing to the other officers : " Let us wait until we get news." 
" Yes, yes," was their answer amidst the greatest joy. 
This rejoicing, however, was converted into fright at every 
moment, at the idea that the noise of cavalry, and even of 
artillery had been heard. 

Falgueras looked anxiously towards Matanzas, but did 
not wish to turn his face towards Cardenas. He was de- 
sirous of receiving a message which would have obliged 
him to return ; and for such a message he would have 
given with pleasure the splendid telescope he held in 
his hands, which, though handsome, did not allow him 
to see farther than the- hills or the woods. The his- 
tory ol that expensive instrument is singular, and little 
known, as I believe that three persons only are in pos- 
session of the particulars It cost him nothing, for 

what is a falsehood to Falgueras? A falsehood which was 
going to produce such a benefit was, in his opinion, worth 
telling. Falgueras had borrowed the valuable article from 
a friend ; and being afterwards requested to return it, 
he coolly answered that on going once into a boat, the in- 
strument had fallen into the sea. Such are the facts, 
upon the accuracy of which you may confidently rely. 
Sooner or later, every thing comes to light ! 

A few remarks on the system followed in my letters, 
will be found appropriate. Some of those who shall read 
them, may miss various important facts which are not re- 
lated, and will also fail to find highly colored pictures and 
important anecdotes. I acknowledge that some true facts 
may have been passed unnoticed, for want of sufficiently 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 353 

strong proofs in favor of their truthfulness, and this is 
owing to the recent date of most of the events related, and 
to the want of published statements in whose authenticity 
we may place entire confidence. These facts, however, 
must be few, because great exaggerations and even false- 
hoods, are usually employed to amuse or to attain other 
ends ; and as I am desirous of communicating only what 
is true, I have been compelled to forego the recital of 
anecdotes of doubtful accuracy. Should others fill, with 
incontrovertible facts, the void that I have left, they will 
do a greater good than by employing falsehood and exag- 
gerations, as such a work would not gain them the least 
credit. After this digression, let us proceed in the recital 
of the events that took place at Cardenas. 

A studious man named Casaseca was accidentally in 
the town. This man relates what happened in Cardenas 
without having witnessed the events. Such is precisely 
the case with all historians who have not been contem- 
porary, but they do not represent themselves as eye-wit- 
nesses of what they never saw, as ha,s been the case with 
Casaseca. All that he can say, having due regard to truth, 
is that he heard the report of fire-arms, and on learning 
the cause, hid himself in a large store full of empty bar- 
rels, and did not go out of it, until the people in the streets 
shouted at the top of their voices that Lopez had already 
left. 

On the news of the landing becoming known, the inha- 
bitants of the town sought after a safe hiding-place ; some 
rushed to the country, some hid themselves in the holds 
of vessels, and many closed and barred the doors of their 
shops and stores. It is said that only a few colored men 
tendered their services to the gallant General, who did 
not accept them. 

The garrison shut themselves up with their Chief Ce- 
15* 



354 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

ruti ; and as Lopez had not time to spare in establishing 
a siege, a match and a piece of paper were procured, and 
these articles accomplished without any sacrifice of lives 
what the most successful assaults would have done. Nei- 
ther Ceruti nor his companions were Numantines, though 
they boast of being their descendants; those heroes per- 
formed the feat, and the glory they acquired is enjoyed by 
their descendants, though these latter do not have to fol- 
low their example in order to receive it. Such also is 
the case with persons of noble birth, who do not need to 
act in a noble manner, as this was already done by their 
ancestors. They will continue, therefore, to be noble, 
though their conduct be unworthy and despicable. 

The Cuban flag was hoisted, and waved majestically 
in the breeze, waiting the arrival of those who wishing 
to be redeemed, would come to take shelter under it 
against the attacks of despotism and oppression. But no- 
body was seen coming with that end in view. The in- 
vaders considered this a strange occurrence; some time 
had elapsed and nothing notable had yet happened. Idle- 
ness began to look for some pastime, and unfortunately 
the liquor to which the men had access came to work 
against Lopez' designs. — " It is a fact, they do not wish to 
afford us any assistance." — " We are not doing anything 
here." — " Let us return," — These phrases were heard on 
all sides, and soon afterwards the soldiers began to re- 
embark themselves without waiting their commander's 
orders. * 

Lopez accompanied by a few Cubans and Americans, 
were still on shore. This movement was perceived by the 
enemy, and a body of horsemen and another of guajiros 
thought that they might with little exertion take prisoners 
those few who were on the wharf. They started, and 
cautiously proceeded towards the place. The report of 



LETTERS PROM CUBA. 355 

fire-arms was then heard, several fell dead on the ground, 
and the soldiers halted. The historical uncertainty begins 
at this place, as there are numberless rumors which mu- 
tually contradict each other. Spaniards consider Car- 
rasco, the pikeman, as a hero, unable as they have been 
to find another ; but the Cubans say that this wretch was 
so drunk, that instead of rushing to the place where his 
few enemies were, he went directly into the sea. An 
American, who had left his companions to meet him, 
struck him heavily with the breech of his gun ; but the 
rider and his horse proceeded, and fell into the water; 
whence he was taken out, and died in a few minutes from 
the effects of the blow ; otherwise he would have been 
drowned. 

He undoubtedly did something; and the Spaniards have 
manifested their gratitude by erecting a kind of mauso- 
leum to his memory I have not seen it; but they 

assure me that the place selected for this purpose is situ- 
ated in the immediate vicinity of a rather filthy spot in the 
fortress. 

Lopez re-embarked at last, yielding to the pressing re- 
quests of his companions. The steamer ran aground, and 
the Spaniards could have made her a prize, if they had 
only had courage enough to approach her. 

The government represented that the invaders had been 
so closely chased, that they were compelled to re-embark, 
and that Carrasco had pierced with his lance a large num- 
ber of enemies. Pictures were ordered to be made, like 
that which a certain fable relates of a lion which was van- 
quished by a man; and the newspapers undertook the dif- 
ficult task of healing with falsehoods the wounds given 
at Cardenas to Spanish honor. 

A wonderful occurrence took place on those days, viz.: 
the almost entire disappearance of the cholera. It seemed 



356 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

as if the disease wanted to afford a truce to the Cubans, 
in order to allow them a better opportunity of running to 
arms ; the obstacle disappeared, but their dullness conti- 
nued. They, however, allege several causes which pre- 
vented their joining the invaders ; as for instance, that no 
notice had been given to them of their designs, and that 
they had been taken by surprise. 



LE T T EE LV . 

Second landing of Lopez — A prediction — Lopez before O'Donnell 
— Appearance of the Pampero — Smuggling merchants — 
Attack of Las Pozas — Panic of Catalonians on seeing Enna's 
corpse — Rejoicing of the Creoles — Treachery — Breakfast 
of Anthropophagi — Rumors — Newspapers. 

A few days after the events at Cardenas, a conversation 
was held on the subject in a circle of Spaniards, among 
whom was a Creole. The first named spoke of the pro- 
babilities of another expedition, and the general opinion 
was that it would not take place. The opinion of the 
Cuban was asked, and he answered : " Another expedi- 
tion will land in the island ; Lopez will come again, even 
if he was sure of meeting with death ; his honor requires 
him to do so, and he will do it." 

All the Spaniards remained silent, well aware of the 
truth of the Creole's statement. 

Such was precisely the case. 

New rumors were soon afloat ; the name of the steamer 
which was to convey the invaders was afterwards ascer- 
tained ; but the general remark of the Spaniards was 
that the steps taken by the government were such that 
they could not possibly escape ; and that all those who 
might attempt to join them would be shot on the way. 



358 LETTERS FROM CUBA- 

An occurrence was then related to Concha, the accu- 
racy of which I do not guarantee. They said that Lopez 
was once sued before General O'Donnell, who was then 
Governor. On making his appearance he was not offered 
a seat, whereupon he took a chair which was near by, 
and struck the floor so heavily with it, that it broke into 
pieces. He then kicked the fragments away, and taking 
another chair, sat down as calmly as if nothing had hap- 
pened. O'Donnell could not utter a word, and the pale- 
ness of death covered his face. Such was the anecdote. 
Concha considered it true, and on hearing the news of the 
landing of the hero, he became greatly terrified. The 
steps he took show that he expected wonderful exploits 
from the enemy. 

The guard in the watch-tower of the Moro-Castle gave 
notice one morning that the steamer Pampero was in 
sight, but shortly afterwards, he signalized that she had 
steered to the west. Indeed, the invaders seemed to have 
come, in order to give notice to their so-called friends, so 
that they could not recur to the pretext they had alleged 
on former occasions. 

These friends prepared themselves to learn the news; 
they all expected to see what " turned out," but nobody 
acted. The Government officers feared to lose their pit- 
tance ; the red Peninsulars were frightened at the thought 
of being compelled by the Government to fulfil their 
promises; the aristocracy, the Creole Counts and Mar- 
quises, trembled for the safety of their titles ; those who 
occupied high positions, on account of undeserved pa- 
tronage, feared that the reign of justice would throw 
them aside ; the merchants engaged in the slave trade 
perceived over their heads the impending danger of the 
ruin of their business ; those having the flour monopoly 
imagined that their large profits would no longer be de- 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 359 

rived ; the planter believed that the decree abolishing 
slavery would soon follow as a matter of course ; and 
even those who had been presented with a second-rate 
cross, did not wish to lose it. All these persons lived on 
abuses and wrongs, and they wished them to continue. 
The number of those disposed to carry out the plans of 
Lopez were few, but those who were really doing some- 
thing in his favor were fewer still. 

The inhabitants of Havana said : — " The citizens of 
Vuelta de Abajo ought to rise now, as they are near Nar- 
ciso, and those of Puerto-Principe ought to follow them 
and join the troops of Agiiero." The residents of the 
above named places, on the other hand, said : " Ten thou- 
sand young men from Havana must have taken possession 
of the capita.1 already, and as many more ought to be rush- 
ing to help the invaders, and carry Lopez in triumph to 
the city.'' 

A procession was seen going to the palace. It was a 
deputation of those who call themselves merchants, but 
who are really smugglers, living on depredations com- 
mitted on the public treasury. Their quality of merchants 
would require them to desire a free and liberal govern- 
ment, instead of the continuance of the present system by 
which they can soon make fortunes, while they fear that 
under a different system of government, their incomes 
would be materially reduced. Their profits in this busi- 
ness are enormous. The greater part of these merchants 
were clerks ten years ago, living on small salaries ; now 
they possess one, or even two millions of capital. There 
is no pursuit or business cf any kind which yields such 
large profits without capital ; and in order to obtain them, 
all kinds of frauds, depredations, thefts, &c. must be re- 
sorted to. 

These merchants walked in a very timid manner ; their 



360 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

eyes gave strong proofs of a dreadful fright, and their 
pale complexion was also a witness to their fears. They 
passed through a dense crowd of Creoles, who filled the 
portico of the Captain-General's palace, and went to pro- 
pose to the Governor, who manifested no less trouble and 
anxiety than they, that they would take charge of the city, 
in order to enable him to send all the garrison against the 
invaders, and oppose to their three hundred men an army 
of ten thousand strong. Concha, on seeing them, could 
not fail to think that they were unable to perform in a pro- 
per manner the services they were offering, and -therefore, 
instead of allowing them to do the city service, replied 
that he would provide them with arms to go to the field. 
They did not accept, and returned home to think about 
the best way of concealing their w r rongfully acquired 
treasures. 

Such was the end of the interview between the Captain- 
General and the honest men of Havana ; the men whose 
advice is solicited on all questions of paramount import- 
ance to the country, though their interest is in opposition 
to that of the people, and their knowledge almost limited 
to the practice of book-keeping, while they have an inte- 
rest in the continuance of the present regime, though the 
ruin of the Island be the unavoidable consequence. 

Enna at the head of the larger body of troops proceed- 
ed by sea to Bahia-Honda. Another body went by the 
railroad, and before reaching the depot, some of the sol- 
diers fainted, and fell on the ground. Poor wretches ! 
They are weak and feeble on account of the scanty fare 
on which they live ; their chiefs deprive them of their 
food ; and their self-respect and courage disappear on 
account of the severe beatings they receive from the time 
they are sworn to follow the banners. They go to the 
field, however, because they know that behind them the 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 361 

officers ccme, and that they would pierce them through 
with their swords in case of their showing the least symp- 
tom of disobedience ; but they do not know why, nor 
what they are fighting for, nor the advantages they are 
going to derive from victory. They only are well aware 
that their condition cannot be worse, and their aim is to 
be disbanded. 

They arrived, and were let loose against Lopez ; their 
great number encouraged them, and they made the attack 
with the intrepidity so common to Spaniards whenever 
they contend with weak and inferior foes. Indeed they 
were so numerous, when compared with their enemies, 
that they ought to have defeated them by blows of their 
fists only. But to do this, it was necessary to approach 
them, and this was precisely what they did not dare 
to do. 

As soon as the first discharge was made, the front 
line of soldiers fell to the ground, and the second refused 
to place themselves in a spot which had been so deadly 
to their fellow-soldiers. They discharged their guns, but 
did not go forward. Their chiefs shouted and bade them 
to go forward ; but they were deaf; their shots were harm- 
less ; they did not kill; but every ball from the invaders 
was fatal to them. At last they stooped, and rushed in 
search of undulating ground to hide themselves behind 
the hills ; and finally the officers endeavored to escape 
death by placing themselves behind the soldiers. 

The other officers also sustained a large loss, .and be- 
came as frightened as the private. Enna became indig- 
nant, and shouted Cowards ! &c ; but they did not mind 
his words, and began to weep like children. The officers 
were anxious to leave that deadly field, and found an ex- 
cellent opportunity of doing it, in taking away those who 

had been wounded. Thev die 1 not return afterwards, and 
16 



362 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

those who could not adduce this pretext, fled at last toge- 
ther with their chiefs. 

What would the fate of Cuba and Lopez have been, if 
he had taken advantage of this panic and confusion . . . . 1 
Many explanations have been offered to account for his not 
having done so ; the blame is thrown, not on him, but on 
his men ; the Cubans say that the foreign band of the ex- 
pedition was strenuously opposed to the measure. Where 
is the truth 1 

Lopez retired, as his enemy had done ; and his despair 
must have been almost equal to theirs, because the infor- 
mation he had received was discovered to be unfounded, 
and Crittenden's defection had occasioned a considerable 
loss in his small army. He was aware that all the troops 
of the Island were coming against him, and his aim was 
not to kill, but to take advantage of time and of his posi- 
tion, to enable the boasted patriots to join his banners. 

It is notorious that a storm occurred soon after the ar- 
rival of Lopez, which spoiled the munitions of the in- 
vaders, and disabled them for any further service, at the 
game time that the followers of Crittenden were murdered 
to gratify the cannibal Catalonians. A few cartridges 
were however left, and these put to flight the royalists in 
a second encounter and killed their general, whose corpse 
arrived at Havana at eleven o'clock at night. 

It is impossible to give an exact idea of the dreadful 
effect produced on the Peninsulars of the capital by 
the mere arrival of this corpse. Any person attempt- 
ing a description of it would run the risk of having 
his statements considered as hyperbolic, though no one 
can ever represent in its true light that intense coward- 
liness and that dreadful fear which took possession of 
the minds of those who boast so much when they consi- 
der themselves in perfect safety. So common an occur- 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 363 

rence was for them an omen which their religious opinions 
could not reject, as their creed is a shocking mixture of 
superstition and atheism. 

The rejoicing on the other hand was general among the 
Creoles, and it was easily perceived in spite of their ef- 
forts to conceal it. Thousands rushed to the cathedral to 
enjoy the pleasure of the spectacle of the corpse which 
was exposed in the church; and thousands of others cele- 
brated the event in the bosom of their families with a 
few friends, and with the aid of the bottle and the glass. 

But the exertions of the Creoles did not go any further. 
They had heard a conversation in many circles to the ef- 
fect that Spaniards used to meet every evening at the 
" Campo de Marte" to devise means to carry out a plan 
which, there was every reason to believe, had in view a 
general slaughter of Creoles. It was also a notorious fact 
that over one hundred Biscayans, dealers in jerked beef, 
had armed themselves, and formed a body for the same 
purpose. Spaniards could do this very easily, as the go- 
vernment did not oppose their designs ; they could buy 
any quantity of powder and balls, while the Creoles were 
entirely deprived of them, and many did not dare to pur- 
chase those articles, for fear of being considered as fili- 
busters. 

The news of the ravages of the storm on the small in- 
vading army gladdened the hearts of Concha and the Spa- 
niards in general, and the arrival of some prisoners afford- 
ed them a practical proof of the accuracy of the informa- 
tion received. The Chief, however, had escaped, and he 
was the person whom the government most feared : an 
oppressed country like Cuba only wants a man, in order 
to recover its rights at any time, when the inhabitants are 
disposed to do so. The man was already in the Island, and 
the despot then had recourse to the amnesty. The parti- 



364 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

zans of the Governor said that it had been granted through 
magnanimity ; but sound minded persons thought that it 
was a proof of fear. 

Treachery then sought for a reward, and Lopez was 
surrendered. On the morning when the pain of death 
was about to be inflicted on him, a table was set in the 
house of a Catalonian, who invited many others, and pro- 
vided, among the dishes of his breakfast, a large glass 
bowl for the purpose of filling it with the blood of the vic- 
tim. Their design was at first not to drink it, but to en- 
joy the smell it exhaled : but it is probable that they would 
at last have made a cannibal banquet, and that a libation 
of that blood would have taken place ! 

The sanguinary wishes of these Catalonians were not 
carried out on account of the news that was received 
from New-Orleans, of the great excitement of the people 
on hearing: of the murder of Crittenden and his followers. 
The Spaniards trembled, and this fear prevented the corpse 
of Lopez from being cut asunder and dragged through 
the streets. For the same reason the Catalonians who 
prepared the banquet did not drink his blood ! 

A few minutes before the hour of the execution two or 
three men were seen at a distance from the gallows, and 
looked as if waiting for some others to arrive, but these 
never came. It was said that about fifty well armed 
young men had resolved to meet there in order to make 
an attempt to save the victim or die in the struggle by 
his side. But either no such plan was formed, or they 
did not fulfill their promise. Lopez died alone. 

Another occurrence was related which though not 
well proved, is very likely to have happened, as it is in 
accordance with Spanish cruelty and injustice. A young 
man who was found on his way to a plantation a few 
leagues from Las Pozas was shot on the spot by the 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 365 

soldiers who suspected that he intended to join Lopez. 
The same is related of a physician who was going see to 
his patients, and of several other persons who have disap- 
peared. 

The Editors of the newspapers meanwhile used to go 
to the Captain-General's office to learn the subject on 
which they had to write. The messages received from 
the seat of war were not published ; the reports which 
appeared in the public prints were represented as ab- 
stracts from those received from the field, but in fact they 
were entirely false documents, in which the defeats were 
represented as victories, and the invaders charged with 
committing all hinds of enormities. No Spaniard was ever 
reported to have died ; since the first encounter all the 
troops of Lopez were flying, &c; but even the Spaniards 
threw aside those papers with contempt. It might be as 
well to remark, that the Editor of one of them is a coun- 
terfeiter, who was condemned in Spain to suffer capital 
punishment, and that another is an equally despicable 
wretch. 



15* 



LETTER LVI. 

Beginning 1 of the Political Questions — Principles professed by an 
honest Spaniard — Hatred between Creoles and Peninsulars — 
Extraordinary assertion — Historical facts of the Cuban revo- 
lution — Revolutionary Committee of Havana — New-York 
Junta. 

I shall enter now, dear Charles, into the considera- 
tion of the political questions concerning this Antille. In 
order to abridge my letters as much as possible, and to 
avoid the formation of alarge volume, I will arrange and 
classify the vast amount of data and information gathered 
on different occasions, and transmit it in a form adapted 
for your perusal. The subject of our conversations after 
dinner was on this matter, and though the abstracts I 
used to make every day were short, the aggregate of 
them alone would form a bulky book. I will therefore 
relate here only what is strictly necessary to attain the 
purpose set forth, in my programme. 

The saying " tot capita, tot sententiee," is generally 
confirmed in these disquisitions, as almost every indivi- 
dual professes a different system. I will explain to you 
several of these systems. 

The opinions of Don Cosme, who was the only Pen- 
insular in our circle, can be condensed in the following 
political creed : 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 367 

" I was born in Spain," said lie, "but might as well have 
been in the middle of the sea ; I am, as it were, a fish of 
this world, born in latitude some 40 degrees north ; and 
I believe that if I should take a greater interest in Spanish 
affairs, than in those of other nations, it would be as ab- 
surd as if a person born on board a vessel should enter- 
tain towards her a devoted affection. I must do all in my 
power to promote the welfare of men in general, whether 
they be natives of my own town, or of the farthest corner 
of Siberia ; as a wliale of Norway would join another of 
Patagonia in carrying on a war against the sharks. We 
must all be cosmopolites; I must like Cuba better than 
Spain. I left my country because I could not make a liv- 
ing there, and here I have been, and am still, doing very 
well. 

" I am well aware that very few countrymen of mine 
profess the same creed ; that nearly all of them hate the 
Creoles, and that these in return abhor them. In my opi- 
nion, both are wrong ; and what I find most singular is, 
that they allege the same reason for their procedure, viz,: 
' Because they hate us.' This is a circulo vicioso, and for 
this reason I say, that none of them act in a proper man- 
ner. Cubans, however, may be somewhat excused, be- 
cause many Peninsulars, on manifesting themselves strong 
advocates of the Spanish Government, do thereby give a 
conclusive proof of their enmity against them. The greater 
part of the Cubans, besides, have not eagerly sought for 
liberty, nor do they wish in earnest to acquire their inde- 
pendence ; their only desire is to obtain a reform in the 
system of government." 

This last assertion was always contradicted in the 
warmest manner by his listeners. He insisted, however, 
and I will here relate some of the reasons he adduced, as 
a great amount of facts will thus be furnished to you. 



3G8 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

" To wish for independence," said he, " is not what it is 
generally considered to be. Cubans desire independence, 
because they know that it is ablessing, and people are always 
desirous to obtain what is good ; but some of these blessings 
are so valuable, that in order to acquire them, it is not suffi- 
cient to wish for them, but we must fervidly long for them, 
and make great exertions and painful sacrifices to secure 
them. Few, very few, understand this truth, and I have no 
doubt that if they would at last become aware of this im- 
portant fact, the necessary exertions and sacrifices would 
soon be made. Cubans desire freedom with the lukewarm- 
ness of a person who wishes to have some ice-cream, for 
instance: if the saloon is far off, the enjoyment of the re- 
freshment is foregone ; but if the person is fully convinced 
that it is an indispensable requisite for the recovery of his 
health, he will travel many miles to take it. 

" They generally contradict my statements, and affirm 
that the coldness of their desires is not so great ; but I 
adduce the recent facts, which are universally acknow- 
ledged to be true. The first plan of Lopez was to pro- 
mote a general revolt of the country ; and this was the 
most approved idea, and the only manner by which 
anything could have been done. In a few days he found 
a large number of followers ; but when they were re- 
quired to begin the work, he was left alone. Three or 
four persons only met at the place appointed for the ge- 
neral rising ; and one of them went to say that his child 
was sick, and could not be left alone ; and the other asked 
to be excused, as his wife was confined, and wanted his 
assistance. 

" Lopez was obliged to fiy to the United States to save 
his life \ but despite his recent disappointment, he could 
not believe that the Cuban people would be satisfied with 
living in chains and groaning under the weight of oppres- 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 369 

sion and degradation. This belief was afterwards strength- 
ened by statements made to him, in which the people 
were represented as being anxious for liberty, but unable 
to struggle for it. Lopez relied on the truthfulness of this 
information, and therefore went to Cardenas first, and to 
Playitas afterwards. In the first named place he saw 
that the Creoles left him alone instead of joining him, and 
in the second, he not only received no help, but was as- 
sailed by them and their dogs. These facts, however, do 
not prove what the Spanish Government adduces them 
for. The residents of cities sympathized with the inva- 
ders in general, but their sympathies were so luke-warm, 
that they did not manifest themselves in any practical 
manner. The guajiros who persecuted him may be ex- 
cused, as the Government represented to them that the 
invaders came for the purpose of robbery, and the patriots 
did not endeavor to undeceive them, for fear of being con- 
sidered as filibusters. They did not wish to make even 
the trifling sacrifice of appearing in the light of persons 
displeased with the Spanish system of Government. 

" Lopez, after being taken prisoner, walked several 
miles escorted by a few soldiers, and not even a dozen pa- 
triots endeavored to wrest him from the grasp of his mur- 
derers. This is more to be wondered at, when we con- 
sider that for doing this, it was not necessary to be a 
warm patriot: any person of humane feelings, and en- 
dowed with sentiments of gratitude, possessing besides 
some courage and dignity, would have made the attempt. 
Lopez was exhausted from weariness, hunger and thirst; 
he walked barefooted for a long distance, limping and bleed- 
ing from his lacerated feet ; while the soldiers who guarded 
him embittered his sufferings by insulting and mocking 
words. That new Christ went alone to his Calvary ; no- 
body acted in the place of a Simon of Cyrene, or of a 



370 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

Veronica towards him. The people whom he came to 
free witnessed his march to the scaffold ; they heard his 
affectionate farewell, " I die for my beloved Cuba /" and if 
any sympathies were felt, they were so slender that they 
were not manifested in either deeds, words, or move- 
ments. Shortly before the second expedition landed in 
the Island several noble-hearted young men at Puerto- 
Principe did what the whole people ought to have done, 
viz. : to raise the standard of rebellion. Nobody, how- 
ever, followed their example; and even those who had pro- 
mised to aid them did not come in time to join the revo- 
lutionary army. The person who afterwards gave a 
shelter under his roof to any of those patriots, thought 
that he had performed a great feat. The surrendering 
of Armenteros, without having shot a single ball, cannot 
be accounted for by the stories which were related at the 
time; or, as some said, because he expected all the troops 
to join him ; but by the fact that he found himself aban- 
doned by the patriots. Then, as well as now, all expect- 
ed others to do what all ought to do. 

" After the execution of Lopez, six persons only form- 
ed themselves into a club to promote a revolution in the 
Island. These men heard their friends speaking against 
the Government, and expressing the liveliest desire of ac- 
quiring their independence. They placed confidence in 
their hyperboles ; they thought that the greater part 01 
the people were anxious for freedom, and this brought 
about a sad disappointment. They still adhered to this 
mistake, even after experiencing that nobody offered him- 
self to co-operate with them, and that no aid, either per- 
sonal or pecuniary, was tendered. Had these men with- 
drawn on seeing this refusal, and the contempt with which 
the country received the offer of their services, many evils 
would have been avoided. 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 371 

" Some, on hearing this reasoning, reply, that those per- 
sons did not deserve the confidence of their countrymen ; 
that, excepting one, who died some time ago, none of the 
members of the Club were of the first respectability ; and 
that even that person was not popular as a politician or as 
an energetic man, but as skilful in his profession. My an- 
swer to this argument is very simple : if the people had 
resolved to accomplish the revolution in earnest, many 
other persons would have offered themselves besides those 
few already referred to, who labored besides under the 
disadvantage of being ruled by immoderate ambition, as 
they expected to obtain an elevated position after the 
establishment of the new government. Many other res- 
pectable Clubs would have been formed whose labors 
would have been perhaps more fruitful. 

" The only practical result worth mentioning, attained 
by the labors of this Club, was the conspiracy called that 
of the Vuelta de Abajo. A few persons engaged in it; 
but their number was so small that they did not form any 
considerable majority of the people, and this fact does not 
alter in the least my general assertion. Half the persons 
condemned by the G-overnment were entirely free from 
all blame." 

The facts related in the sequel will show the accuracy 
of the principles set forth by Don Cosme. " A Junta was 
formed in New-York ; four of its members falsely repre- 
sented themselves as appointed by the people; but the 
fact was, that no person in the Island, for fear of the risk, 
dared to make such appointments. 

The six members of the Revolutionary Committee of 
Havana, believing the " Lugareno " an influential per- 
son among the people of Puerto-Principe, proposed to 
him the establishment of another revolutionary Junta in 
the United States; but subsequent facts proved that he not 



372 LETTERS FROM CUBA- 

only did not enjoy this popularity, but also that he did not 
deserve it. He proposed to his correspondents in Havana 
two other members for this Junta, one of whom accepted 
on the condition that the Havana Club would send one 
of its members to form a part of it, but no one offered 
himself to go. The conspiracy of La Vuelta de Abajo 
was then discovered, and Valiente, who was one of them, 
fearing to be thrown into jail, rushed into a steamer and 
reached New-York, representing himself as the envoye 
of the Club. He then joined the other three, and the one 
who was appointed by the Cubans- in the United States, 
and the Junta was formed. 

" While this happened in the States, the Cuban Club was 
dissolved; and the Junta was left with very few corres- 
pondents, their letters hardly ever meeting with any an- 
swer. This body had in their possession a pal cry sum of 
money, which had been furnished by a few persons of the 
Island. The Junta issued their manifesto, which did not 
promote in the least the cause of the revolution. 

" I acknowledge that this document was but a ludicrous 
parody of the famous " Declaration of Independence of 
the United States." I also agree that the members of the 
Junta were not more influential than any of the Club ; 
I also grant that the Creoles should not have placed any 
confidence in parties who asked for money, when those 
who had done the same before had appropriated to them- 
selves whatever came within their grasp ; and lastly, I 
think that the utter want of established principles to which 
the Junta would adapt their proceedings did not warrant 
the residents of the Island in indulging any reasonable 
expectations of success. We cannot, however, conclude 
from this that the revolution would have come to a suc- 
cessful termination, if the members and the principles ac- 
cording to which they proceeded, had been good. Logic 
does not authorize such a conclusion. 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 373 

" But let us recur to the facts. What were the Creoles 
doing while those who styled themselves their representa- 
tives were issuing manifestoes, sending letters to thelsland, 
and writing falsehoods in the newspaper called " The 
Truth t" Many months elapsed, and nothing had yet been 
done, until a certain family in a certain town considered 
themselves invested with the right of deciding on the man- 
ner of managing the revolution by the mere fact of having 
loaned a few thousand dollars for the purpose. The Club 
of Havana, and even the Junta for the same reason, called 
themselves representatives of the people, and thought that 
they had sufficient talent to conduct the revolution, which 
latter opinion has since been discovered to be entirely un- 
founded. 

" Besides many other things, the aforesaid family re- 
quired that all the money in the hands of the Junta should 
be deposited with the General appointed chief of the ex- 
pedition, whom the Secretary of the Junta represented, 
without knowing him, as the greatest desideratum of the 
Cuban patriots. By the mere fact of having furnished 
the money, they imagined also that they had purchased 
the right of ordering that the General should have the 
whole control of the affair. The Junta readily yielded 
to all these requirements, as its members were satisfied of 
their own uselessness and utter incapacity. 

" The country meanwhile showed the greatest dullness, 
and nobody thought of a revolt. Many were anxious for 
the arrival of the expedition, but a greater number still 
feared the consequences to their lives or property. But 
even among the above named, very few contemplated. tak- 
ing any active part in the struggle by tendering their per- 
sonal services to the invaders ; but all expected to live 
and see the change that was going to take place. Some, 
without even entertaining these desires, affected to pro- 



374 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

fess them, with the view of acquiring high offices or pri- 
vileges ; and to this class belonged the larger part of 
those who contributed money to the undertaking. Others 
only wished for the expedition in order to revenge them- 
selves upon the Spaniards, at the risk and expense of 
others ; as they did not care if all the invaders perished, 
provided a large number of Peninsulars could be killed." 
You may easily imagine, dear Charles, the warm dis- 
cussions to which these assertions gave rise. Many were 
strenuously contradicted; and I am certain that if these let- 
ters are read by the Cuban patriots who believe that by 
concealing or altering the facts, the interests of the revolu- 
tionare to be promoted, Don Cosme's opinions would differ 
widely from theirs. I do not think, however, that they 
are far from the truth ; and I firmly believe also that to 
tell the truth, which is always a duty, is in this case very 
desirable for the Cuban cause. 



LETTER LVII. 

Efforts of some Cuban Patriots — Their motives — Strange reason- 
ings — American Sympathies — General unconcern among the 
Creoles — Its causes — Misfortune — Patriotism of the Cuban 
ladies — Death of Patriots. 



Don Cosme also brought several facts which had been 
related, by Don Placido, to bear in favor of his assertions ; 
and considering them true and interesting, I think I am 
warranted in giving them a place in my letters. He said: 

" Many were greatly attracted by the renown of the 
new General, but all remained quietly at home, adhering 
steadily to the principle of doing nothing while any hope 
could be entertained that others would take the risk on 
their own shoulders. No offers even of money were made 
until the patriot * * * enlisted in the ranks of the revolu- 
tionists, and another patriot, * * *, strenuously exerted 
himself in carrying out his plans. Several others then 
followed their example, and some good plans were fram- 
ed. But, liow many were these patriots? Very few ; 
some offered their purses, and a very small number their 
personal services. The amount collected was short of 
$400,000, and the number of contributors, despite the as- 
sertions of some, was not over two hundred. Several of 
these sums were almost extorted from the givers. 



376 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

" I will not dare to affirm that all persons who tender- 
ed this pecuniary aid contemplated making a profitable 
investment ; but I can assure you that many with whom 
I am acquainted had no other end in view. 

" A conclusive proof of the accuracy of this assertion 
is, that I have never heard any of these persons uttering 
a liberal principle ; they manifest generally an unquench- 
able thirst for riches and privileges ; even in their ges- 
tures the despotism under which they have been brought 
up is manifested : and when they think of liberty, they 
fancy the enjoyment of this blessing as intended exclu- 
sively for themselves, as if freedom did not require a re- 
ciprocal regard for every body's rights. 

" The worst thing for the cause of the revolution was, 
that even the slender sympathies of these persons vanish- 
ed at the moment of their delivering their respective 
amounts ; they thought that they had done already all 
that they possibly could ; and instead of continuing to 
exert themselves, their greatest efforts were directed to 
conceal the fact as much as possible ; and to attain this 
end, they divulged discouraging news, and were ready 
at any time to give to the Government proofs of their at- 
tachment. The Government used to take advantage of 
these declarations, publishing them in order to deceive 
the people ; though well aware of their want of sincerity, 
and knowing that they were produced by the most de- 
grading abject.ness. Nobody, on the other hand, dared 
to divulge the true cause of these manifestations." 

These were the facts adduced by Don Cosme to prove 
his assertion " that the Cubans have not, at least so far, 
endeavored in earnest to free themselves from the Spanish 
rule." From these premises he also drew the conse- 
quence, that nobody had a right to disturb a people who 
lived satisfied with the manner in which they were go- 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 377 

verned ; as then the law of the majority, or of doing what 
the greatest number agrees upon, would be disregarded. 
Any person attempting this would incur the responsibility 
of all the evils resulting therefrom. 

This opinion caused its author to be looked upon in a 
rather distrustful manner by the greater part of his list- 
eners. They thought that his opinions were not sincere; 
that the principles he uttered were not those that he really 
professed ; and that he, being a Spaniard, was a partizan 
of the statu quo, as the interest and character of his coun- 
try were thus promoted and exalted. I consider him, 
however, a sincere person, though Don Placido very fre- 
quently says to me, " If such are the opinions of one of 
the best Spaniards, what must be those of the others'?" 

DonCosme also thought that we, the Americans, did not 
feel any sympathy for the Cubans; but I had the pleasure of 
seeing that this assertion was promptly contradicted, and 
many facts were adduced, by which it was proved that a 
lively interest on the part of our countrymen in favor of the 
triumph of the Creoles had very often been manifested. I re- 
gret that I am compelled to forego the publication of the 
names of persons which were quoted on that occasion; but 
dear lives and a great amount of property are therein invol- 
ved, and I consider this a sufficient apology for my silence. 
The mere and well-known fact that many spots of this Island 
have been moistened with our own blood, puts beyond 
question the fallacy of DonCosme's opinion on this point. 

He, however, offered an excuse for the conduct of our 
countrymen ; he said that Americans could not and should 
not entertain such sympathies, because even the Creoles 
did not seem to feel them for their own freedom; that the 
circumstance of our being far from the country obliged 
us to form our judgment on the matter only by the facts 
coming under our notice ; and that these did not warrant 
16* 



378 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

the conclusion that the Creoles were anxious or felt dis- 
posed to do all in their power to get rid of the Spanish 
rule. " The death of Castaneda," said he, " is a very 
weak protest, which vanishes and disappears among the 
numberless manifestations of sympathy and attachment 
which the Spanish Government receives at every mo- 
ment. The full attendance at the palace on court-days, 
or when balls are given; the establishment of the new 
bank; the recent funeral rites celebrated on the death of Ta- 
conand other facts contradict those who rely upon the mere 
fact of that death. I am well aware that the Government, in 
its accustomed injustice, would punish all persons who 
should, even by their silence, show themselves dissatisfied 
with its authority ; but if they fear its persecutions to 
such a degree, it is fair to presume that the desire of re- 
demption is not very strong. I even believe that by these 
enormities the hatred of the people against the govern- 
ment would be universal, and that the revolutionists would 
acquire a greater number of followers. The present be- 
havior of the Creoles does not prove cowardice as much 
as unconcern." 

There can be no doubt that Don Cosme's opinions are 
in the main proper and judicious. At the ball given by 
General Concha on the occasion of the last saint's day of 
the Queen, numerous Creole ladies and gentlemen were 
present, and appeared highly pleased, some with the plea- 
sure of the dance, and others with the honor of having been 
invited. This baseness and degradation was a matter of 
great surprise to me, but an explanation was offered by 
some of our circle, who traced the origin of this fault to 
their bad education and want of learning, and to the vici- 
ous examples which are always presented to them, and 
which are the workings of a degraded and vile govern- 
ment. Very few Creoles have understood yet " how great 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 379 

is the infamy of those Cubans who are faithful to a throne 
which is the enemy of their country," as has been said in 
the " El Pueblo" of New- York ; but they neither under- 
stand the meaning of the word liberty, nor properly com- 
prehend the sense of the terms baseness or infamy. The 
exceptions are so few, that very often and in great ear- 
nestness 1 have heard the following astounding device 
proposed, in order to ameliorate the condition of fu- 
ture generations, namely : " To take from the country all 
children under Jour years of age, and make the sea cover 
the whole Island and rise above the surface of the highest 
mountains, for twenty-four hours." So overcharged with 
faults and misery is the present generation reputed by 
some ! 

My belief, however, is that if this awful calamity 
should happen in Spain, the measure would be more in 
accordance with the divine justice, and Cuba would be 
made independent ipso facto, and be obliged to declare 
itself free. * 

Another assertion of our friend the Spaniard was 
acknowledged as true by all the members of our circle. 
" The patriotism of the Cuban ladies," said he, " is far 
greater than that of their countrymen ; they manifest a more 
intense hatred to the Spanish government, and have 
more courage to evince it." Numberless facts which 
have been related to me, seem to confirm this opinion ; 
but though desirous of giving you an abridged recital of 
them, the risk of exposing the heroines to the persecutions 
of the tyrants, obliges me to be silent. I will relate, 
however, a rather unimportant occurrence from among 
the many which have come under my notice. History 
will, at some future day, publish them to the world. 

The fact was as follows. A Spanish officer, of the 
class known among the politicians by name of red, was 



380 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

with his lady in the circle of a Creole family on the 
evening of the day when Lopez was arrested. Amidst 
the noise produced by the fire-crackers and fire-arms, 
with which the Catalonians celebrated that event, a 
crowd of Spaniards was seen rushing through the street, 
and shouting at the top of their voices. The lady of the 
house remarked, " How stupid they are .... they are 
all drunk." The officer, wishing to offer an apology, 
said : " It would not be fair to throw much blame on 
them to-day, if they have indulged excessively in cham- 
paign." " Champaign !" quickly retorted the lady, " all 
the champaign that there was in Havana was consumed 
on the day of the death of Enna; those beasts have 
intoxicated themselves with brandy (aguardiente)." 

Don Cosme did not deny that the Cuban revolution 
had had its Creole heroes. He referred with pleasure 
to those who had spilled their blood, and manifested 
great courage in jeoparding their lives for the cause of 
Cuban liberty. In the career of Several of these patriots, 
there are very interesting episodes, which I omit relating, 
because I have noticed several important differences in 
the particulars of the several recitals of the occurrences, 
and I would like to avoid, if possible, even a single error 
in all my letters. 

I w«ll only notice a fact, the accuracy of which is 
acknowledged by all persons. None of the patriots who 
have died on the scaffold have evinced the least symptom 
of fear. The mild young man Facciolo, who on account 
of his tender age might have manifested some faintness, 
ascended the steps of the gallows, like all others, with 
wonderful unconcern, giving incontrovertible evidence 
that neither the awful fate which he was going to meet, 
nor the hideous appearance of the instrument of death, 
and all its appurtenances, influenced, in the least, the 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 381 

state of his mind, or changed the soundness of his reason. 
This phenomenon, so frequently observed in those who 
have suffered death from political causes, shows the 
powerful influence of a satisfied conscience on those oc- 
casions. While guilty persons convicted of horrid crimes, 
— the perpetration of which presupposes personal cour- 
age, — faint and manifest great dread on their way to the 
gallows, the weakest and most fearful patriots have 
shown on all occasions the coolest unconcern, and thus 
given at the moment of their death a proof of their utter 
contempt for the tyrants. 

The conduct of many of the so-called patriots after the 
last unsuccessful attempt to liberate the country, seems 
to confirm the leading assertions of Don Cosme. Those 
who exhibited the greatest enthusiasm, have entirely 
retired from the scene ; they are satisfied with the tem- 
porary loss of their gifts, as the shares obtained for them 
have .been safely kept ; and publicly despise the revolu- 
tionists. They have devoted themselves with a base zeal 
to business pursuits ; they flatter their oppressors, and 
and endeavor to impair the reputation of those who were 
once their fellow-revolutionists ; and some engage in the 
slave trade, though their former opinion was that im- 
mense evils accrued to the country from it. 

When speaking on these matters, Don Placido fre- 
quently exclaimed : " What do these infamous egotists 
care about the country !" 



LETTER LVIII. 

Advocates of the Cuban statu quo — Condition of the Spanish Ame- 
rican Republics — Disadvantages of the Cuban people for self- 
government — Details of what Creoles require for a liberating 
expedition — Their hopes in the Spanish Cabinet — Parties in 
Cuba — Annexationists — Fartizans of Independence. 

In one of my former letters I mentioned that another 
friend of ours, Don Evaristo, was also a strong advocate 
of the statu quo of the Island, and no matter how strange 
this may appear, we cannot but acknowledge that the rea- 
sons on which his opinions were founded are by no means 
unreasonable. i 

He thinks thr.t the representative system and the re- 
republican regime would be hurtful to Cuba, and that no 
lover of the country should desire the tinsel of independ- 
ence, when it must be purchased at the high price of the 
sacrifice of true happiness. 

He says that Spanish Americans are not capable of go- 
verning themselves, and read an extract from an Ameri- 
can newspaper, in order to prove that the Spanish mind 
is so constituted that it cannot freely and fairly exercise 
political rights. 

He finally quoted a passage from President Belzu's 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 383 

message, which furnished us with the darkest picture of 
the present condition of Bolivia ; this must be relied upon, 
as it has been drawn by an experienced hand. 

" Bolivia," says he, " has become incapable of self-go- 
vernment. It contains no abiding element of order. Vir- 
tue, which is the soul of republicanism, has made way for 
a profound and universal demoralization. Patriotism is 
a mere name The first of the public evils is the ge- 
neral idleness of the Bolivian people. They despise work, 
and like to live by obtaining office under Government, or 
by trusting to find a prize in the lottery of political in- 
trigue. Hence every revolution holds out a hope to them, 
and they encourage it. They speculate on the ruin of 
the State." 

When any remark was made to the effect that the Cu- 
ban people was perhaps better prepared than others who 
were once under the Spanish rule, Don Evaristo replied 
by making a rather gloomy sketch of ancient and modern 
people, both of whom he charges with the same want of 
civil virtues, which the President of the Bolivian Republic 
so much deplores. He adduced, in order to prove the total 
want of good principles and the ignorance of republican 
habits among the mass of the Cuban people, the impru- 
dent and unlawful procedures of the late revolutionary 
Junta of New-York y and insisted that no institution could 
be properly carried out among the Creoles, as it was al- 
most impossible to find citizens fit for the purpose ; be- 
cause true devotedness to the public interests and the pub- 
lic welfare was very seldom practised. "No guilty per- 
son," said he,*" would ever be punished, if he only had 
friends ; because they do not pay any regard to an oath, 
nor do they understand what the duty of jurors is. They 
would think that in declaring a person innocent, no evil was 
done to the republic, but a benefit was conferred on the 
criminal." 



384 LETTERS FROM CUBA- 

His belief was strengthened by the occurrence of a fact 
which he related, and which was as follows : a Cuban 
who had been for many years a resident of New- York, acted 
once as juror in a grave criminal case. After two hours 
confinement and deliberation, his patience was entirely 
exhausted ; and instead of examining closely and care- 
fully into the matter, as was done by his fellow-jurors, he 
only thought of requesting them to come to any conclusion 
whatever, in order to avoid the inconvenience of delay. 

Our other friends bitterly censured Don Evaristo for 
his opinions. They argued that if he considered the Spa- 
nish Government, the worst that could ever rule over 
Cuba, it was a strange inconsistency not to wish for a 
change. His reply was, that he would like to have one 
effected, provided there was no danger of perishing in the 
mutation ; and that he foresaw a great risk at the mo- 
ment of establishing a new political system, because, there 
being no concord or alliance among the Creoles, and 
nobody wishing to act in a secondary capacity, sufficiently 
strong forces could never be gathered to check the in- 
road of other parties. A necessary consequence of the 
overthrow of the Government, he thought, would be the 
freeing of the slaves, and this was, for him, the worst 
evil that could befall the island, "because," said he, 
"without negroes the agriculture of the country would 
be ruined, and in a few years it would be a barren de- 
sert \ so that the prospects for the sons of wealthy men 
were misery and starvation, while under the present sys- 
tem they would be rich and probably very opulent." 

In regard to the inability for self-goverftment which he 
imputed to the Cubans, his adversaries replied, that they 
would become accustomed by degrees to the republican 
regime, as this was not an exclusive grant made by God to 
the Anglo-Saxon race; that the people of the United States 



LETTEilS FROM CUBA. 385 

were taught to enjoy freedom, and the Spanish colonists 
were brought up as slaves ; and that no hopes of their be- 
coming capable of exercising republicanism at some future 
day, should be weakened by the mere fact that thirty 
years had elapsed without having attained this end. The 
friend of the statu quo smiled, and gave evident proofs 
of incredulity. He related the following story : 

" When Intendant Pinillos was appointed a second time 
to that office, a certain loafer who was in search of plun- 
der, shouted on the occasion of his installation with a 
loud voice, " Long life to the great Count of Villanueva." 
The Intendant heard this flattery, was pleased with it, 
and rewarded his behavior by appointing him to the first 
office left vacant under his administration ; but the abuses 
and depredations which the scoundrel committed were so 
flagrant that Villanueva , despite his efforts, was compell- 
ed to take into consideration the complaints made against 
his proceedings, and remove him from the office. This 
would probably be the case with all officers appointed by 
the Cubans." 

Don Evaristo wished for a revolution, provided his 
plans would be strictly followed, which he acknowledged 
himself to be almost impracticable. A large invading 
army, ten thousand strong at least, should land at the 
same time in two places in the Island, to the east and west 
of the capital, having excellent chiefs and a strong body 
of artillery. "This is the only manner," he added, " of rous- 
ing the sympathies of the Creoles, who would then join the 
ranks of the invaders ; the Spaniards would do it also for 
dread and for fear of losing their property ; and the Govern- 
ment would become suddenly powerless, while the negroes 
would have no time or would not be allowed to think of 
a revolt. The change would be like that effected in the 
decorations of a theatre. And if this is not possible, the 

17 



386 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

best thing that the Cubans can do is to remain still, to 
suffer patiently, and to wait." But when questioned about 
what the Cubans had to wait for, he answered : 

" Those who have endeavored to promote the revolt, 
have caused our evils to be greatly increased. Under the 
pretence of liberating us, they wished to secure high po- 
sitions for themselves ; they represented themselves as 
the expounders of our own wishes, without knowing them^ 
or having been invested with the charge of doing so \ and 
considering themselves possessed of great talents, without 
any foundation for the assumption, proclaimed that the 
people were in the wildest state of excitement, and falsely 
asserted that they relied on the efforts of numerous per- 
sons in the Island who were ready to help them. The 
blood-thirsty inclinations of our cruel oppressors were 
thus awakened, as well as their suspicion and fears. The 
cowardice of the Government has been the cause of the 
intolerable measures adopted in late years ; and Concha 
has taken advantage of this to suit his private views. He 
represents himself as needful for the continuance of the 
Spanish dominion in the Island, and the stupid officers of 
the Crown are made to believe that the number of revo- 
lutionists throughout the country is boundless. But it 
cannot be long before those officers will become convinced 
that there are not over half a dozen true republicans in 
the whole people, and that all other Creoles and Spani- 
ards only seek for their own profit and advantage. Fi- 
nally, that the great bulk of the people entertain the same 
opinions that I have expressed, with only this difference, 
that they do not say it boldly as I do. As soon as the 
officers become fully satisfied of this truth the present re- 
gime will be changed; the useless watchfulness now prac- 
tised by the Government will cease, as well as their un- 
just vexations and enormities, and we shall live as our 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 387 

forefathers did ; we shall be buried by their side, and our 
children perhaps will be fortunate enough to see better 
times than those we have enjoyed." 

It was highly amusing to hear Don Evaristo defending 
his system from the attacks of his friends. In one of my 
forthcoming letters I will relate the reply of the Filibus- 
ter on that point relating to slavery ; and I will here make 
an abstract of the remarks he made on the several political 
parties. 

Many names were quoted to prove that there were in 
Cuba more republicans than Don Evaristo imagined; and 
this gave rise to a minute examination which was made 
of the lives of such persons. A considerable number of 
biographical sketches thus fell into my possession, and as 
they are very interesting, I will, perhaps, venture to pub- 
lish them at some future day. For the purposes of my 
letters, however, it will suffice to say, that the discussion 
of this matter lasted for several days, and that at the end 
of this time, fewer true republicans still than those men- 
tioned by Don Evaristo were duly recognised as such. 
In almost every instance the party had entered the revo- 
lutionary career from a personal interest, either to avenge 
himself on some person, or to revenge some offence re- 
ceived: others who represented themselves as advocates 
of the republican system, did not profess its maxims, nor 
were they acquainted with its principles : but had heed- 
lessly involved themselves in the revolution to such a de- 
gree, that they were unable to draw back without injur- 
ing their character. They never professed any love to 
liberty, as a great good, but as one of the means to which 
they might recur in order to rise from nothingness into 
power, or to obtain in after life high offices and elevated 
positions. 

In regard to those who call themselves pure independ- 



388 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

ents, I may confidently remark, that very few understand 
or can explain what they wish, for they take for granted 
that anarchy in its most deplorable shape would bring its 
disgraceful effects over the land, and yet they do not 
think of devising some means to prevent this evil. Don 
Evaristo compared these men to riders who should jump 
upon untamed horses without even bridling them. " In- 
dependence and a Democratic Republic," said he, "would 
be great blessings to Cuba, if the people were prepared 
to enjoy the benefits accruing from them ; but under the 
present circumstances they would become great calami- 
ties, which would either destroy us entirely, or lead us 
into anarchy and despotism." On hearing these remarks, 
Don Placido replied, " We are under a despotic govern- 
ment, and our condition can never be worse ; the people 
cannot be taught freedom in the school of slavery." " But 
we must take into account," Don Evaristo answered, 
" that we may meet with our ruin on the way." " Bet- 
ter to die," replied the Doctor, rather excited, " than to 
live dishonored." 

These discussions were wont to end with a general si- 
lence ; and after a short while of high internal excitement, 
Don Placido would strike the table with his fist, and ex- 
claim, like Narciso Lopez, in a sorrowful voice: " Ah 
Cubans !" 



LETTER LIX. 

Abolition party in Cuba — Expediency of abolishing- slavery — Slave- 
ry in the United States — Arguments against it refuted — Ima- 
ginary freedom of Sparta — Wrong principles of the Cuban re- 
volutionists — Discord among the Creoles. 

I "should not, perhaps, make any mention of the Cuban 
abolitionists ; for they are so few that they can hardly be 
considered as forming a party. My friend Joseito is an 
advocate of these principles. 

In his opinion, motives of mere interest and expediency 
should recommend the abolition of this institution, even 
if no attention be paid to the claims of humanity, or to 
the injustice of slavery. " In countries, *' said he, " where 
this institution exists, no freedom can be enjoyed ; im- 
provement is slow and uncertain, as little confidence can 
be placed in the continuance of public peace. For evi- 
dence of this, look at the Southern States of the confede- 
racy of North America. The white man is deprived in 
them of many rights which he enjoys in the northern part 
of the Republic ; the freedom of the press, for instance, 
is visionary ; for any person who should dare to publish 
a paper advocating abolition principles, would not live 
twenty-four hours. Even in the populous cities, the in- 
habitants do not feel safe, and their uncertainty and un- 
easiness are founded on the hatred of the male and female 



390 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

servants, who necessarily live in the greatest intimacy with 
their masters, and are the perpetrators of the treacherous 
murders which are every day committed. Finally, it is 
easy to conceive that no improvement of any consequence 
can be carried on in a country deprived of freedom and 
tranquility, and this is fully confirmed by experience, as it 
has been observed that the slave states remain compara- 
tively stationary when compared with the northern ones." 

In order to object to the first assertion of the Filibus- 
ter, one of our friends adduced the saying of Plutarch, 
who affirms that in Sparta the free men were exceedingly 
free (malista eleutheroi), though there were slaves exceed- 
ingly debased ; as if meaning to say, that in other coun- 
tries the free were less free and the slaves more oppress- 
ed than those of the aforesaid republic. Joseito seemed 
to be overwhelmed by the weight of an authority that 
entirely destroyed the foundation of his system ; but he 
might have answered the argument by simply remarking 
that Plutarch called that freedom which would not now 
be considered as such, as the restrictions upon liberty in 
Sparta were numerous and burdensome. The necessity 
of entering into the bonds of wedlock, and the prohibition 
of freely disposing of their property, are sufficient argu- 
ments in proof of this opinion. He might have argued 
also that their form of government has been properly clas- 
sified as composed of aristocratical, democratical and mo- 
narchical elements ; and lastly, he might have reminded 
his opponents that the senators were called either kurioi 
kai despotai tcs poleos or kurioi megdlon kriseon, and that 
there were established differences of rank. The fore- 
going remarks go to show that the greatly boasted free- 
dom of Sparta was not even a shadow of that which is 
enjoyed in the United States of North America. 

Joseito, nevertheless, insisted and said that the fact 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 391 

quoted could hardly be understood, as the rights of citi- 
zens in Sparta must have necessarily been limited, in a 
considerable degree, in order to secure the public peace, 
as is done in modern republics. In applying his princi- 
ples to Cuba, he concluded that the abolition of Slavery 
was one of the pressing wants of the country, not only as 
a means of overpowering those parties who were oppos- 
ed to the formation of a republic, but also for its mainte- 
nance after being once established. 

" The idea of liberating Cuba," said the Filibuster, 
" can only be carried out when the aid of the slaves has 
been secured by offering them their freedom, and an equa- 
lity of political rights with the free colored people. The 
means heretofore employed have been of the most absurd 
and nonsensical description." 

Joseito also had recourse to the statistics of the Island, 
to strengthen his assertions, guessing approximately at 
those data on which there was any uncertainty. He 
reckoned the whole white Creole population of Cuba at 
not over four hundred thousand, of which one-half were 
women, and of the balance about forty or fifty thousand 
only were considered able to take the field. The opposi- 
tion which this force would encounter, consisted of sixty 
thousand Spaniards and twelve thousand regular soldiers, 
who had in their hands, besides the castles and fortresses, 
the naval forces and the prestige of authority. All these 
circumstances, he thought, insured to the Spanish Govern- 
ment a decided superiority over whatever plans the Cu- 
bans might devise. 

The disagreement or want of concord among the Cu- 
bans must, in the opinion of the Filibuster, be also taken 
into consideration ; as every body wishes his own plans 
to be adopted, and refuses to alter them in the least. A 
similar disagreement also prevails among their adversa- 

17* 



392 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

ries, and miglit probably appear even more violent at the 
beginning of the struggle ; but it would not be wise for 
revolutionists to place any reliance on this element. A 
powerful invading army was needed to compensate for 
these disadvantages ; but no hopes of success could be 
entertained, if through an undue reliance on the liberal 
part of the Creole population, a smaller force should land 
in the country. 

These assertions were made by Joseito, taking for 
granted that the colored population, whether free or slave, 
would remain neutral ; but he affirmed that this was im- 
possible, that they would be on the side of the govern- 
ment, which would take advantage of every thing avail- 
able, as has been already pointed out, and that the result 
would be the formation of an empire of blacks like that 
of Hayti. 

The Filibuster explained that he had at first sympa- 
thized with those who were forming expeditions, because 
he believed that they professed these principles ; but on 
learning their true plans he had no longer wished for the 
arrival of the invaders. He thought that the blunders 
of the Cuban Junta of New York had been aggravated 
by the requirements of those planters, who made grants 
of money in order to have the control of the affair en- 
tirely, and wrecked the whole concern J that the impossi- 
bility of organizing and conveying from the United States 
an expedition of four or five thousand men, was clearly 
seen by those who were not too blind or stupid ; and 
that this fact proved that those who insisted on this as 
requisite did not really desire a revolution, but had made 
the sacrifice of their money in order to be reputed as 
patriots, and to satisfy their covetousness or ambition. 

What struck me more particularly in the reasonings of 
Joseito, was their generous and disinterested character. 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 393 

Though the greatest part of his father's wealth consisted 
in slaves, he was satisfied with the adoption of a system 
by which he would be deprived of them. This proce- 
dure is more praiseworthy still when we remember that 
the emancipation of slaves very seldom occurs in Cuba, 
where they publicly shout that the abolitionists are those 
who have no slaves, and where they censure the disinter- 
ested procedure of Joaquin Agiiero in setting all his 
slaves at liberty. 

How beautiful, how lovely my young friend seemed to 
me when he uttered thoughts which could only emanate 
from a noble and generous heart ! In a conversation 
with another young man of selfish feelings, I heard him 
making the following remarks. In his face I could easily 
perceive the purity of his soul, while that of the other 
colloquist gave evident proofs of baseness and degrada- 
tion : 

" What do I care for the country," remarked the latter, 
" there is no other positive happiness than that derived 
from riches." " Well, live, if you choose, to make 
money," answered he, " and gratify your savage plea- 
sures, and you will soon find yourself plunged in weari- 
ness and self-loathing; teach your children the same 
principles, in order to make them as useless to mankind, 
and as miserable as you are. Bequeath large sums of 
money to them ; and if any of them ever come to under- 
stand that they owe it to you that they are dragging out 
a wretched and despicable life, their just imprecations 
will be heard by you in the grave." 



LETTER LX. 

Advocates of a new political regime under the Spanish rule — Ad- 
vantages which Spain would derive from this system — Prin- 
ciples on which the new regime might be founded — True 
freedom of the Press — Golden dream. 

The number of persons who profess Joseito's opinions 
is, as I before remarked, very small; but my friend Don 
Antonio, on the other hand, represents a large class in the 
community. Indeed, the number of Creoles who would 
be satisfied with obtaining certain grants from the mother 
country, is very large. Some require that Spain should 
invest the people with all the rights that belong to them, 
while others would be glad to obtain from the Spanish 
cabi net some new regulations beneficial to the country ; 
and both think that the evils consequent upon a revolu- 
tion might thus be avoided. 

Don Antonio believes, however, that the more freedom 
these regulations allowed, the more beneficial they would 
be to the colony, and to the mother country also ; and he 
maintains that if Spain would place the Island on an equal 
footing with Canada in its relations with England, all 
hopes of annexation would be entirely banished. He is 
also warmly opposed to annexation. 

He asserts — and the arguments he adduces are of the 
most satisfactory character — that the possession of Cuba 
is at the present time an evil, instead of a benefit, for the 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 395 

Spanish nation. " The income," he says, " derived from 
enormously heavy taxes, which oppress the people, is 
barely sufficient to meet the expense occasioned by the 
warlike system under which we live ; and in a short time 
no balance will be left to be sent to the Peninsula. The 
possession of the Island is only advantageous to the go- 
vernment officers, and to those merchants of Santander 
or Catalonia who enjoy the monopoly of the Spanish 
trade. The nation derives only a very trifling portion of 
the immense benefits which a small number of persons 
obtain from the Island. 

The profits derived by the mother country would be 
still greater even if the flour trade, and that from other 
Spanish merchandise, were entirely suppressed, on account 
of the competition in the United States. In regard to the 
first named traffic, I acknowledge that as soon as the pro- 
tective tariff should be abolished, the profit on each bar- 
rel would be less than that obtained now ; but I also 
maintain that there will always be some gain, and that if 
proper attention is paid to the packing, &c, the importa- 
tion of this staple will increase, because the present in- 
ducements for the extensive smuggling of American flour 
practised by the Spanish merchants will cease, and both 
will then freely contend in the market. 

" The trade in other products of Spain will not suffer by 
this regime, nor will its influence be felt unfavorably, 
either by the manufactures and wines of Catalonia, or by 
the staples of other provinces. Besides, the Cubans are 
accustomed to many of these articles, and as it will not 
be easy to replace them with those of other countries, the 
demand for them would increase in the same ratio with 
the wealth and population of the Island, which are now 
stationary, on account of the heavy taxation, and the in- 
cessant fear of a revolution. 



39G LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

" Other important advantages would also be derived 
from the adoption of this plan. The numerous soldiers 
who die every year in Cuba, after their arrival from 
Spain, would be saved ; the dangers of the seas would 
be avoided, as well as the ravages of the yellow fever 
and other epidemics ; and the emigration of a large num- 
ber of Peninsulars, whereby the manufactures and agri- 
culture of their country necessarily suffer, would cease." 

I will not trouble you with a minute description of all 
the benefits which, according to Don Antonio, Spain 
would derive from following his system, and giving Cuba 
all possible freedom. One other advantage, however, I 
will here refer to, viz. : the glory. " By adopting these 
measures/' said he, " the glory of Spain would be highly 
exalted, and she would conquer the sympathies of con- 
temporary nations; while her stubbornness in keeping 
the Island in her possession by means of armed forces 
and oppression, will not only cause the total loss of the 
colony, by its annexation to the United States, but will 
darken still more the hideous picture which Spain painted 
of herself three centuries and a half ago, when she was 
seen depopulating a whole continent of harmless people, 
either stabbing them for pleasure, burying them in the 
mines, or throwing them to the dogs." 

While dwelling upon this matter, Don Antonio was on 
fire with a religious enthusiasm, and exclaimed : " This 
crime, this awful crime of murdering millions of innocent 
people, has no parallel in the annals of history ; it is ne- 
cessary that Spain should atone for this crime, as the Di- 
vine Justice cannot leave it unpunished. If the perpetra- 
tors have already died, their posterity are equally to be 
blamed, because they strive to take advantage of what 
their predecessors have done. 

" Spain has also committed a great crime. She has 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 397 

not fulfilled the most obvious and sacred duties of a Go- 
vernment. Instead of promoting the welfare of her peo- 
ple, and having no other end than their happiness, her 
only object is to derive every possible advantage from 
them. In the Indian Code, indeed, many wholesome laws 
were enacted, and in their preambles many philanthropic 
sentiments are uttered ; but no steps were ever taken to 
carry them out, and those who enacted them sometimes 
profited by their infraction. The laws may not have been 
accompanied by orders to the Viceroys not to observe 
them, such as are now sent to the Captain-Generals of 
Cuba, yet their infringement was not noticed, because the 
same galleon which conveyed the news of the abuse, car- 
ried presents from the officer who committed it." 

According to his belief, therefore, Spain might keep the 
Island in her possession forever, or at least for a very 
long lapse of time, by a proper and judicious system of 
administration. To explain minutely all the reasons 
which Don Antonio adduces, would be a long and tedious 
task; but I will here refer only to the leading points, as 
he, taking into consideration the circumstances of the 
country, believes that the system of government practised 
in Canada is not entirely applicable to Cuba. 

He does not wish for a sudden political change, but is 
desirous of having it effected in a very slow and gradual 
manner. He proposes, for instance, that the heads of all 
the families in the different districts of the country should 
appoint electors, who in turn should choose one hundred 
representatives, to constitute the Legislature of Cuba, 
whose sessions should be held in Havana. The Govern- 
ment should carefully avoid influencing these elections in 
the least, and should limit itself to keeping the peace. 

On the same day when the elections were to take 
place, the unrestricted freedom of the press should be 



398 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

recognized. Don Antonio thinks that without an un- 
trammelled press no improvement could be effected, because 
it would be absolutely essential for the discussion of all 
questions of administration in a country full of abuses 
and long-cherished prejudices. " It is true," said he, 
" that it would open the gate for a flood of slanderous, 
base and revengeful publications ; but this is a necessary 
evil in order to attain the desired end. The first advan- 
tage to be derived would be an entire reformation of the 
conduct of all officers, including the Captain General. 
The public would soon become accustomed to suspend 
its judgment when an accusation was made ; the person 
accused of having committed any crime was at liberty to 
defend himself from unjust attacks, and the one who had 
done wrong would suffer the punishment of his misdeeds." 
My friend believes that all laws restraining or controlling 
the press are hurtful to liberty, and tend to injure the 
usefulness of this powerful agent ; and that no perfect 
freedom is enjoyed in the United States so long as prose- 
cutions for libels can be brought against the editors of 
newspapers. The Cuban Legislature would begin its 
labors by forming the constitution of the Colony, without 
any other restrictions than recognizing for the present the 
dependence of the Island upon the mother country, and 
acknowledging the Captain Generals as chiefs of the 
Executive. This should not prevent, however, the con- 
stitution from freely prescribing suitable restrictions and 
limits to the powers of these functionaries. 

The exposition of the reasons for the regulations of 
this code, openly and freely laid before the public, as 
well as the discussions in the assembly, and in the news- 
papers, of all matters of public interest, would enable 
the home government to acquire a full knowledge of the 
circumstances, and acquiesce or not, partially or totally, 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 399 

in the requirements of the new colonial constitution. In 
that manner only can Spain ascertain the wants and 
necessities of Cuba, and apply the proper remedy. 

Don Antonio does not dare, however, to mention any 
basis on which the Constitution should be founded. He 
wishes only that the best elements should enter into the 
composition of the Legislative body ; as, for instance, 
that all the interests of the Island should be duly repre- 
sented ; and that no person be appointed a member who 
has not a lively interest in the welfare of the country ; 
and he trusts that all this, aided by freedom of speech 
and unbounded liberty of the press, will make the new 
code liberal, just and expedient. 

He pointed out, though with some hesitation, several 
leading points which should be embraced ; as, for in- 
stance, the gradual abolition of slavery, and he also 
affirms that the adoption of a new political principle, 
which I also recommend, would be highly useful to the 
country. He thinks that liberty should not be for all, 
as is generally believed, but only for those who deserve it ; 
and that laws highly restrictive and severe should be 
enacted against the abuses of public officers, and their 
various depredations, Our great republic, he believes, 
will not last very long, if proper and efficacious measures 
are not adopted to suppress the corruption and immoral- 
ity which have become universal. I was highly alarmed 
at his gloomy prediction, and denied this universality of 
corruption, though acknowledging that this evil is gene- 
ral ; but he alleges facts which, indeed, I am unfortunately 
unable to refute, as for instance, the heavy expenses in- 
curred by candidates for office to secure their election, 
the favorable change in the financial affairs of all those 
who obtain any office ; and what is perhaps still worse, 
the barefacedness of the peculators, who often boast of 



400 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

having made fortunes by a system of bribery and spolia- 
tion. This evinces, he thinks, a great unconcern in the 
mass of the people for the public welfare ; hence a want 
of patriotism, and without this no republic can exist. 

Considering that the best laws are of little practical 
advantage, if those who are charged with their execution 
are not good men, my friend does not approve of a popu- 
lar election of judges, though he does not wish to have 
any of the legislative or executive officers invested with 
judicial functions. In regard to other officers, he pro- 
poses that the principles of our constitution, in this re- 
spect, should be adopted, and therefore, that all those of 
importance should require to be approved. He proposes 
that the Executive should nominate several persons for 
each office, of whom one should be chosen by the Legis- 
lature. 

My friend also approves of our system of not nominat- 
ing persons to any office for life ; and he would also 
prefer that no offices should be profitable, but only re- 
munerative, unless they were of a nature to require long 
preparatory studies. A reasonable allowance for the 
time and labor devoted to the fulfilment of their duties 
would be all that he would grant. 

Don Antonio strongly recommends the meeting of the 
Cuban Legislature, as the only means by which Spain 
can become acquainted with the true wants of the colony. 
For the rest, he said that all this was a golden dream, and 
that he had no hopes of ever seeing it realized. He af- 
firmed that Spain would never adopt it, for the very rea- 
son that it was good ; for it seems that fate, in order, per- 
haps, to punish the former crimes of that nation, has pro- 
vided that she should always go wrong, and that all her 
measures should be blunders and mistakes. 

The idea of having the Island annexed to our confede- 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 401 

racy excited the anger of my recomendado. He agrees 
that this event is very generally anticipated, but affirms 
that annexation would be highly mischievious, because 
our political body is entirely vitiated, and instead of bet- 
tering the condition of those who should unite with us, 
would still further spoil and corrupt them. 

Would to God that the assertions of this good patriot 
might prove false ; and I sincerely hope that our upright 
citizens will exert themselves to remedy this evil, which 
he thinks has no other source than the excessive desire of 
indulging in profusion and display, and of establishing 
some claim to aristocracy. " A thirst after petty distinc- 
tions," said he, " is a conclusive proof of the want of 
real merit, which must be founded on true patriotism. 
The object of these so-called patriots is not to do good 
to the country, but to acquire riches. Their cupidity 
leads them into corruption and all kinds of crimes, and a 
republic of degraded persons cannot be great, powerful, 
or durable. 

"The improvements made in the social condition of the 
present generation would, indeed, enable Cuba to govern 
itself, independent of both Spain and America; but though 
acknowledging this in due form, I cannot help thinking it 
would be rather difficult for Cubans to abandon their long- 
tried and familiar track to take a new one. But even 
supposing this to take place, would it follow that the Is- 
land must be hostile to her then benefactress Spain ? If she 
should be so at the present time, she would be hostile to 
her enemy ; but if she were indebted to her only for be- 
nefits received, we must conclude that such a separation 
would be by no means probable, and that if it ever comes 
to pass, it will be in a friendly manner." 



LETTER LXI. 

Don Placido's System — Passion does not allow Spain to see the 
justice of the claims of Cuba — Revolution is unavoidable — 
The political problem — Weakness of the Spanish government 
— Chances in favor of the triumph of the Republicans. 

Don Placido thinks that the plans and opinions pro- 
fessed by Don Antonio may be properly called dreams, 
for they will never be realized, not only because Spain 
never does what is best for her, and in accordance with 
her duties, but on account of that hatred referred to by 
Don Cosme, which she has always entertained towards 
her Colonies. Even if Spain should become satisfied that 
Don Antonio's system was the most advantageous for her- 
self, she would never follow it, as far as it is also bene- 
ficial to the Island. 

Besides the causes of that hatred already enumerated, 
we may mention another, viz. : their anger that Cuba 
does not yield them as much as they wish, without per- 
ceiving that no one but themselves is to blame for their 
own bad administration ; and yet impeaching the revolu- 
tionists, as if they had not in view the improvement of 
their condition, when desirous of separating themselves 
from a Government so different from what they need. 

Spain fears, on the other hand, not to be able to main- 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 403 

tain her dominion ; that the views of the United States 
may be carried out; that the late events at Nicaragua 
may encourage the revolutionists, and that if only a thou- 
sand Creoles should raise the standard of rebellion in dif- 
ferent parts of the Island, they would receive substantial 
aid from several quarters, and successfully end the revo- 
lution. But these fears, instead of inclining her to think 
on these matters with coolness and judgment, only increase 
her blunders and mistakes. 

Don Placido believes that " if the majority of Cubans 
have not yet wished for independence, they will very 
soon become anxious to obtain it, and that their exertions 
will be so strenuous and powerful, that a larger army 
than that which garrisons the Island could not control 
them, because despair oftentimes accomplishes wonders. 
The hopes of the despots in Cuba are founded on the be- 
lief ' that those who support them are more numerous 
than those by whom they might be attacked ; that the 
first named possess means of which the latter are desti- 
tute ; and lastly, that they might have recourse, in any 
emergency, to all available means, and would call to their 
aid the efforts of the negroes.' Even taking all this for 
granted, the conclusion would be that Spain will, at all 
events, lose the Island. 

" She will not, nevertheless, attain her leading purpose : 
the pleasure of seeing Cuba converted into an empire of 
blacks will never be enjoyed by Spaniards. They will, 
indeed, lose the country, but it will happen through her 
annexation to the American confederacy, whose people 
would not hesitate to come en masse to prevent the estab- 
lishment of a Government within so few miles from their 
coasts, which would endanger the peace and tranquility 
of their Southern States. England may threaten as much 
as she pleases, but she never will nor can come to a con- 



404 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

flict with the Northern Republic, on account of any sys- 
tem of government which might be established in one of 
the Antilles. 

" And how many Cubans, dissatisfied with the present 
government, may be supposed to exist 1 I have already 
asserted that if there are only one thousand now, that is 
sufficient ; there would be two thousand next month, and 
five thousand the next. But even two hundred, if re- 
solved to do so, are enough to destroy the Spanish 
government. It is not necessary that they should defeat 
the government troops, nor form clubs, nor appoint jun- 
tas, nor make up and organize battalions or companies. 
The outcry of revolution raised by a hundred men on the 
East side of the Island, and echoed by another hundred 
on the West, would accomplish far more than those may 
imagine who do not know or have not thought of the 
weakness of the government. These two hundred men, 
though deficient in skill or courage, would, before perish- 
ing or being sacrificed, strike a fatal and deadly blow to 
the Spanish dominion." 

The Doctor believes that that blow would long since 
have been struck if the New York Cuban Junta had not 
been established : the Cubans remained inactive because 
that body falsely represented to them that they were 
laboring with complete success, and when they became 
entirely undeceived, and were preparing themselves to 
do something, the same Junta misled them again, promis- 
ing to tender substantial assistance. In this manner the 
Junta broke up the plans of the Cubans, and caused the 
death of many good patriots. 

The said Junta proclaimed the principle of " van- 
quishing or dying in Cuba," but their true programme 
was " either to go safe, or not to go." This was the 
reason why they heard with pleasure all those plans 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 405 

founded on an armament of thousands of men, an idea 
far removed from aJJ possibility, and rejected the pro- 
posals of those who were ready to go with a small 
expedition. They feared that the glory would then be 
won by others, and as they did not wish the freedom of 
their country if it was not obtained through them, the 
triumph of the latter patriots was steadily opposed by 
the members of the Junta. 

These have indeed been great evils, but they have 
yielded some good, as the country has learned the use- 
lessness of some men, the treachery of others, and the 
interested views of many more, all of which, probably, 
would have formed afterwards part of the government, 
and would have proved a great drawback to the progress 
of the country. 

" On no occasion have I experienced," said Don Pla- 
cido, " a more lively pleasure, than when I learned the 
breaking up of the last expedition, with the sole excep- 
tion of the news of the progress of Walker in Nicaragua, 
which we received shortly afterwards. I knew the 
members of the Junta beforehand, and expected nothing 
good from three of them. I saw with uneasiness that 
those who did not know them hoped to see something 
accomplished by their efforts ; and when they were 
entirely undeceived, I was freed from a heavy burden. 

" One of the principles which the Junta advocated 
was, that only those who purchased bonds had the right 
of conducting the revolutionary movements ; but even 
thus the evil would not have been so great if these pur- 
chasers had been true patriots, whereas experience shows 
that they were only speculators. Their subsecpent con- 
duct evinces that their aim was to perform a good mer- 
cantile operation. 

" The control given to these parties was tha source of 



406 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

the most disgraceful results, for many of them made tneir 
grants of money, and at the same <ime prescribed rules 
not in accordance with the general interest, but with 
their own private views. They insisted upon having a 
powerful invading army, and this being a gratification to 
the members of the Junta, who wanted to feel perfectly 
safe, no efforts were made to undeceive them, and demon- 
strate how nonsensical their requirements were, but on 
the contrary they were deluded with impudent false- 
hoods." 

My friend thinks that long before the establishment of 
the New York Junta, it would have been easy to organ- 
ize and send expeditions under the command of chiefs 
who had the most valuable quality that could have been 
desired, viz. : a willingness to sacrifice their own lives. 
But the men who possessed the means of doing this, 
never thought of it; they and their friends considered 
it expedient to avoid the sacrifice of lives and money, for 
they imagined that this would prevent their receiving 
any farther pecuniary support, when precisely the re- 
verse would have happened. It is, indeed, very likely 
that an expedition of two hundred men would have per- 
ished at last ; but how many lives, and how many thou- 
sands of dollars would those few have cost to the govern- 
ment ? 

If, in the meantime, another hostile body had made its 
appearance in a remote district a general rising would 
have taken place, or at least the Island could be proclaim- 
ed in a state of revolt. This would promote the landing of 
other auxiliary invading corps, because the Cubans on see- 
ing that the money they sent was really devoted to the 
purposes for which they intended it, would not suspect 
their agents, as they do now, of any wastes or depreda- 
tions ; and the Americans, not only the sympathizers but 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 407 

the speculators also, would not hesitate to invest their 
capital in an enterprize which they saw in full operation. 

It might seem ludicrous to ascribe so great an import- 
ance to two small bodies of two hundred men, on the 
opposite ends of the Island, and subject to the assaults 
of a large army ; but we must remember that the gov- 
ernment officers only would be on the side of the latter, 
as the Spaniards themselves will reflect seriously before 
making any sacrifices. 9 

Nor would a very considerable number of troops be 
sent against the patriots, as the fears of a revolt does not 
allow the Government to leave the principal places of the, 
Island without a garrison. The destruction of two bands 
of patriots would involve such heavy losses in the ranks 
of the royalists, that it may not be considered too great 
an exaggeration to affirm, that no great number of car- 
tridges would be necessary to put an end to them. The 
heat in Cuba is deadlv for Spanish soldiers — they have 
only to remain a short time exposed to the sun's rays to 
meet with a certain" death. 

There are some places in the Island which might shel- 
ter a dozen men against the attacks of a whole army. 
The existence of the palenques fully proves this asser- 
tion. A few half-naked negroes have for many years 
frustrated the attempts made by the Government to sub- 
due them. There are also some woods whose soil has 
never been trodden by the human foot, and into which 
the troops would never be able to penetrate. 

The weakness of the Spanish Government is clearly 
proved by the time taken and the labor spent in destroy- 
ing any party of highwaymen. Some of them have been 
carrying on their depredations for years, even in the vi- 
cinity of populous cities ; and if such is the case with 
men who meet everywhere with foes and opposers, it is 



408 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

fair to presume that the same at least would happen with 
those who would easily find friends and followers. 

The independence of Cuba, even without receiving 
any help from the Administration of the United States, 
is, in Don Placido's opinion, not only possible, but also 
an easy and brief affair. Insurrections, skirmishes, ge- 
neral warfare against the partizans of the Government, 
and rewards and support, to the friends of the revolution, 
such are the basis of his system. 

Many lukewarm patriots, who think others are like 
themselves, believe that the first insurrection would be 
# difficult, though they agree that this once done there would 
be no lack of followers. My friend grants, for argu- 
ment's sake, and to avoid all errors in his plans, that this 
objection may be a serious one, and overcomes it by bring- 
ing from abroad the small body who should first start the 
revolt, and the other also, to second the plans of the for- 
mer, in a distant place. One hundred dollars will pay 
all expenses for arming and conveying to the Island each 
sharp-shooter, and it is likely that before being killed, he 
would cause ten or twenty royalists to bite the dust. 

The command of this expedition should be offered, in 
preference to all others, to Cubans who would be willing 
to die in the struggle. The organization of the people 
should be made beforehand ; but it is not necessary that 
everybody should know the time and place of the arrival 
of the invaders. If three, five, or ten persons in each 
town have an understanding to begin to act as soon as the 
landing should take place, that is all that is needed. 
These agreements or understandings can be very easily 
and safely made, as a trustworthy friend is never wanting. 

The skirmishes, no matter how small, would yield sa- 
tisfactory results, and if occasionally united, or working 
by mutual combination, they might accomplish some im- 



LETTERS FROM CUBA. 409 

portant operations. A few horsemen, well acquainted 
with the woods and by-ways, would not only destroy 
all soldiers straggling from the ranks, but could also devote 
themselves to raising levies, who would increase the 
ranks of the invaders, and act in the capacity of ad- 
vanced guards to their troops. Any small party of pa- 
triots would be sufficient to put in revolt all the slaves 
of a large estate, as was done by Bolivar with his own 
negroes, and to repel, at their head, the attacks of a pro- 
portionate body of royalists, or to take povssession of com- 
manding positions and prevent or retard their advance. 

" The government will certainly do the same ; they will 
follow the example of Lord Dunmore, who thought it 
possible to defeat the Americans in their war for Inde- 
pendence, by employing these means ; but in this the 
Spaniards will be as unsuccessful as the English Lord. 
The slaves once emancipated, a part of the problem will 
be clearly solved, viz ; " Spain will lose the Island." — 
The other part will then remain to be made out; " Will 
Cuba fall into the hands of the Creoles or into those of 
the negroes ¥' Don Placido considers the question as 
settled in favor of the former, though the latter seem to 
have in many particulars the best prospects for success. 
In my opinion, as soon as the government should pro- 
claim the freedom of the slaves, another solemn outcry, 
similar to that raised throughout the United States after 
the battle of Lexington, would be heard; " War has be- 
gun." To which the universal response was, "To arms, 
then! liberty or death!" An outcry which told the 
doom of their oppressors. 

" The news of the revolution in Cuba would bring to 

her shores many Walkers and Kinneys ; and there would 

also be new skirmishers ; many who are neutral now 

would openly advocate the plans of the invaders, and 

18 



410 LETTERS FROM CUBA. 

many others who are at present indifferent, would tender 
substantial aid. Even the Spaniards would seriously 
think on the probabilities of any reimbursement being 
made to them by Spain, if they should lose their proper- 
ty and lives in the defence of her cause. The number of 
living soldiers left at the end of four months, after unin- 
terrupted marches and counter-marches, would be so small 
as scarcely deserving to be taken into consideration. 

"The Independence of Cuba would be inevitable, and 
if the Spaniards should seek to re-enact the bloody and 
cruel regulations observed in their old American wars, it 
is much to be feared that they would not obtain from the 
Creoles, as they did from the mercy and forbearance of 
Sucre in Ayacucho, a capitulation after being vanquished, 
as the struggle would be short, and there would be no 

DO 

time to pacify the just resentment which such system 
would arouse. It is very likely that they will resort to 
this inhuman extremity, but as their tactics are already 
known, it is easy for their opponents to adopt them also. 
Those who practice magnanimity towards the Spaniards 
clearly evince that they do not know them; as the Peninsu- 
lars believe that it is a proof of cowardly fear, and not of 
generous courage, and it is necessary that the republicans 
should only wait for the first excess on their part, and 
then act without any regard to the feelings of humanity 
or benevolence." 

Such are the opinions of my friend, and the facts 
which I have been able to gather, go to show that the 
reprisals of the Creoles are likely to exceed those of the 
Spaniards, even taking for granted that the former possess, 
as I am assured they do, means of destruction which the 
latter are unacquainted with. It is also probable that 
in the destruction of property the Peninsulars would suf- 
fer far more injury, as their interests are intimately con- 
nected with those of the Creoles. 



LETTERS PROM CUBA. 411 

The Cubans being once made independent should de- 
liberate with calmness and judgment upon establishing 
a permanent government, and strengthening their free- 
dom, and should exert themselves to become accustomed, 
to republican habits. Cuba, will perhaps, stand in grea- 
ter need of the patriotism of her children to overcome 
these critical circumstances than to acquire her indepen- 
dence. I believe, however, the opinions of my friends 
to the contrary notwithstanding, that if the selections are 
properly made by the people, a sufficient number of 
learned and disinterested persons will be found to guide 
the country safely in the best course. These men will 
meet, indeed, with a great number of obstacles in their 
way ; they will need to be endowed with great and emi- 
nent virtues, and it is to be feared that they will die from 
grief and disgust, even if they escape poison and the 
dagger. 

After being undeceived by a painful and sad experience, 
Cubans may resort to the remedy of annexation. This 
will be, in all probability, the only recourse of Mexico, 
and all other American countries of Spanish descent. 
My friend does not overlook the faults of the generality 
of Cubans. He acknowledges that they are almost 
wholly unconcerned for the evils of their country ; that 
they have inherited from the Spaniards the passion of 
envy, as they refuse to own the virtues of many of their 
countrymen, and enjoy themselves in underrating their 
merits ; that they do not read, or endeavor to enlighten 
themselves and improve their character. He believes, 
however, that the exceptions to these rules, though not 
numerous, are sufficient to form and organize a good, 
legislative and administrative body, and that the vices of 
the great majority would be corrected with the aid of 
the free press. 



412 LETTERS PROM CUBA. 

Cubans have heretofore held two prejudicial and mis- 
chievous errors. They thought that the Americans 
might accept the annexation of Cuba, before she became 
an independent state ; and also that we might wrest the 
Island from the possession of the Spaniards by conquest. 
It is singular that the members of the Junta, who have 
been for years living in the United States, should have 
also participated of these popular errors. 

The Cubans will argue that we also are ignorant of 
the affairs of their country, and I am anxious that my 
letters should in some measure contribute to make this 
charge groundless. I am also desirous that more ex- 
perienced pens should give us some other valuable data 
about an Island, the study of which is so interesting to 
our Republic. 

In regard to the execution of the plans of Don Placido, 
I may say that if the energetic and warm patriots of the 
Island wait for the expeditions from America, formed 
with the money of wealthy Cubans, they will wait in 
vain. These latter believe that their money has been 
wholly wasted by those who heretofore received it in 
charge, and though I have no reliable information, whe- 
ther this charge is well founded or not, the fact is that no 
person with whom I have spoken on these matters differs 
from that opinion, and they positively assert that no one 
will succeed again in enjoying other people's money by 
such means. Don Placido therefore can entertain no 
other hope than that of a general insurrection through- 
out the country, and I venture to say that he himself is 
well aware of this truth. 



THE END. cyy^ 

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